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Hi, I'm Destin Abbott and I'm here today to give you my review of the Nikkor 40mm F2
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This is a full-frame Z mount lens and it provides a great alternative for those of you who want
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that normal angle of view. Actually, I find 40mm in many ways more useful than 50mm, your
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mileage may vary, but it gives you a very compact, lightweight, and inexpensive option
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to cover that normal angle of view, making it a really intriguing lens, particularly
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at its current price point of about $230. I think it really makes more sense at that
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price than it does at $300, which is the MSRP. So is this 40mm F2 worth adding to your Z
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mount kit, particularly when, as we've already looked at, there is a less expensive lens
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from Viltrox that does exist? Now, on that note, I will do a deeper dive into that and
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give you a comparison between these two lenses. I've shot a lot of head-to-head stuff and
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so I will be back with another video at some point in the future to cover that as well
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And so we'll dive into all of the details, however, about the Nikkor lens right after
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So with this particular lens, as with one other Nikkor lens at this point, Nikon has
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actually released two different versions of the lens. There's the standard version that
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I'm evaluating here and then also a special edition. It's really more of a cosmetic difference
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but for about $20 more you can get a lens that takes some retro styling cues back from
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Nikon's film era. So probably more appealing to those of you that have some nostalgia for
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lenses that looked a certain way and so that is available to you. However, while it's only
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$20 difference in MSRP right now, there's a much bigger gap, at least in US pricing
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where really you're paying more like $80 or $75 to $80 between the two. And so obviously
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it's definitely the value proposition to go with the normal one. Now this lower price point of $230 US does place it in more direct competition with the
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Viltrox which you can get for right under $160. But as we'll see in that video, there's
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definitely some give and take between the two but some definite strengths for the Nikon
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lens. Now one of those strengths isn't really the build quality itself. This is a very inexpensive
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lens from a first party and so typically when you get an inexpensive lens from a first party
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it means there's going to be some compromises. And one of the main compromises here is that
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this is definitely a plastic fantastic up to and including the lens mount which is frankly
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pretty rare in my experience these days. Basically only cheap first party lenses do I ever see
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a plastic lens mount. Everyone else, even if they're producing a $60 lens will give
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it a metal lens mount but such is life in the first party lenses
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Now what is surprising considering we don't even have a metal lens mount is that there is some weather sealing included here. But even more surprising it doesn't include the
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gasket at the lens mount which is kind of like the basic thing. If a lens has very basic
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weather sealing it typically has a gasket at the mount. In this case no gasket at the
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mount but about four seal points throughout the lens itself. So go figure. And so this
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has some weather sealing though Nikon is a little bit ambiguous with the language as
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to how much you should trust that. For me I'll happily use it out in rain but I certainly
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wouldn't want to use it in kind of extreme conditions because I just don't think it's
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a professional grade of weather sealing there. Outside of that there is nothing on the lens barrel itself. No switches, no buttons. Just
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the control ring here. And so in this case it's not just a manual focus ring. It can
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be assigned a couple of different functions. You could be on just manual focus. You could
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make it an aperture ring. You could make an exposure compensation dial. The ring itself
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moves pretty good. It has a decent amount of damping and while it is rubberized threads
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here, there's nothing high end about it. But I do think the damping is of enough quality
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that the manual focus experience is reasonably good. And so I do appreciate that
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This is a very compact and lightweight lens even compared to the Viltrox lens which is
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surprising since the Viltrox has a smaller maximum aperture of F2.5 versus F2. So in
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this case the Nikkor lens is 70 millimeters in diameter. Basically it starts with as wide
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as it needs to be to accommodate that lens mount which is very large on the Z mount bodies
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and then it just carries that through solid. And so it's 70 millimeters or 2.8 inches in
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diameter but then it is very short. It's only 45.5 millimeters or 1.8 inches and extremely
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lightweight weighing only 170 grams. That is six ounces. Up front we have 52 millimeter
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front filter threads but interestingly here not only is there not a lens hood included
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which by the way the Viltrox does include a lens hood, but there's not even a bayonet
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for a typical lens hood to go on there. So if you're going to use some kind of third
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party lens hood you're actually going to have to use one that uses the filter threads
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to thread on which certainly comes with its own kinds of inconvenience. So you know that's
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something that I'm not necessarily delighted about. One area however that it is a kind of
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a cut above your typical budget budget lens a lens like say the Canon RF 50 millimeter F1.8
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is that inside we actually have nine curved aperture blades and so a little bit more of
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a premium treatment for the aperture iris. Minimum focus distance here is 29 centimeters
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which gives you a quite useful 0.17 times magnification. So again there's some
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contradictions here. You've got weather sealing, you've got a nicer aperture iris
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but you've got a plastic lens mount, you've got you know the very most basic of features not even
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designed really for a lens hood. You know it's a lens that does come with some inherent
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contradictions to it. Now when it comes to autofocus some of the same rules apply here
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That is an STM or stepping focus motor but it is quite a snappy one in this application and I am
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actually pleasantly surprised by how fast autofocus is and as you can see from the test indoors or
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outdoors it's pretty close to instantaneous in terms of making focus changes. Not only that
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but the focus motor is nice and quiet and I have to put my ear right next to it to make out even
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the slightest bit of noise. It costs custom and focus and what you hear is a very very light kind
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of shuffling as the focusing group moves back and forth there. For the most part I found autofocus
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to be very precise. I would say shooting at large apertures it's pretty much always precise
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I did notice however shooting at smaller apertures particularly when shooting landscapes
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that sometimes focus seemed to have been in the right place and then right at the moment of
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capture focus would kind of jump back to where it was focused right at the beginning of the frame
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So there'd be just this tiny little section of the the scene in focus and then most of the focus
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or most of the scene out of focus even though I was shooting at f5.6 or f8. Kind of an annoying
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trait that fortunately was not routine but it did pop up more than once. I would say over the course
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of my review I probably saw that three or four different times and it pretty much ruins the shot
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when that takes place. So just something you might want to watch out for and obviously it's probably
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going to help to have fewer points active. I like to shoot with most of the time with pretty much
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all the points active and then override if need be and so in this case moving ahead I probably
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would override more often in that situation to make sure I got focus where I wanted
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Now on the video side of things I found again a bit of a mixed bag when it comes to the focus
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pulls. There's no lack of speed. Focus pulls jump back and forth very quickly but what you'll also
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see is these micro pulses to where it will go backwards when it needs to go forward and so you
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have this quick kind of pedaling back and forth before focus moves to the place that it needs to
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go. So that can be obviously a little bit of annoying as it can pretty much ruin a shot if
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you've got a pull involved with it. Focus breathing is fairly low as you can see from the shot
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and then when you get out into the real world doing those same kind of focus pulls I found
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that there was unfortunately some of those same pulses that would happen sometimes here with these
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you know rose bushes I was moving back and forth and I got one of those pulses in there which you
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know I wasn't delighted about. I would say when it comes to my hand test that again it's a bit
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of a mixed bag and that sometimes it made the transition fairly smoothly from my eye to my
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hand and vice versa. In other cases it was really reluctant to move off my face to the hand even
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though clearly the hand was the significant object in the frame and my face was not really visible
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and so again a bit of a mixed bag there. I found for real world focus changes just kind of you know
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pushing not trying to do so much focus pulls but just those natural transitions
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there can be a little bit of abruptness there rather than this kind of cinematic
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transition that was nicely damped. It's a little too quick. You can help that a little bit by
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dialing down the speed of autofocus in the actual camera body but it doesn't entirely eliminate that
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altogether and so just something where this lens shows a little bit of its kind of budget roots
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when it comes to the autofocus system. So positives are it's fast, it's quiet, it's mostly accurate
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for the video side of things and sometimes in landscapes it can just be a little bit abrupt
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and not do what you want it to do. So let's talk about image quality itself. I will give you the
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detailed image quality breakdown at the end of the review but here's the overview. Optical formula
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here is six elements in four groups. Very simple. Two of those elements are spherical elements and
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so a very simple optical design for those of you that are fans of simple optical designs. The MTF
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chart is kind of ho-hum. I wouldn't be sold on this just based on the MTF chart and the kind of
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the early reviews I had read before I had a chance to look at it suggested that the lens was better
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than the MTF chart suggests and that is partially true as we're going to see today. The Viltrox is
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definitely sharper as you can see here and in all of the side-by-side tests the Viltrox is consistently
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the sharper lens of the two. The Nikkor however has definitely the nicer bokeh so it really comes
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down to which you prefer. You don't get both here. You get either or with one of these lenses
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Now on some of the other technical sides of things I found longitudinal chromatic aberrations
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that's fringing before and after the plane of focus. They exist but not strongly. There's more
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of a spherical aberration that robs the lens of a bit of contrast particularly when you're up close
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to the subject. I found that lateral chromatic aberrations near the edge of the frame were pretty
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much non-existent so very nice and clean in that regard. Distortion is low. There's just the
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tiniest degree of barrel distortion. I used a plus 2 to correct 4. You could leave it uncorrected and
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probably never notice. However, vignette is really heavy. In fact, heavy enough that I don't think
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that the profile actually completely deals with it. I can definitely see a difference in the viewfinder
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on screen if I'm going from f2 to even f2.8 and beyond. The corners definitely brighten up and I
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had to pretty much max out the sliders to eliminate it manually. You can see in this side-by-side
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comparison with corrections on that there is a huge difference between the way that a shot looks
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at f2 and f3.5. So vignette is definitely a factor here. It's heavy enough that even
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electronic wizard really can't entirely eliminate it. When it comes to the chart test and that's
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looking at a 45 megapixel at 200 percent magnification, I would say I was somewhat
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disappointed by what I saw at f2 on my chart test. I thought that the results might
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look a little bit better than what they did and part of the reason for that is that I didn't feel
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that my real world results looked quite as bad. Now there was some give and take with that. What
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I found is that this lens does seem to be optimized for let's say six or seven feet, a few
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meters and further. Up close I did feel like contrast was lower than what I would like and
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there's some bleeding towards the edges. If I moved to a little bit more distant subject I felt
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like contrast actually improved and at infinity or landscape distances I felt like the contrast
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looks pretty decent and it was better in the corners when it comes to that. So ironically I
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didn't find so much improvement by focusing in the corners but I did find an improvement if I
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was shooting at distance. I found that there is some improvement by f2.8. Vignette starts to
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live contrast improves a little more noticeable improvement by f4 and by f5.6 to f8 things are
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looking pretty fantastic all across the frame. I found that for shooting landscapes f8 was actually
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the the optimum aperture to shoot at if you want corner to corner sharpness. Diffraction does start
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to show up at f11 and more so at f16 which is minimum aperture but I also felt like diffraction
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really wasn't the worst thing here. I felt like it handled diffraction a little bit better than what
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some lenses do. Really the standout to me here optically is the bokeh quality which is really
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very nice for a lens like this. I felt like it was soft, it was creamy, specular highlights were fairly
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round, not a lot of outlining to them and as I noted that was way better for me and my taste
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than what the Viltrox produces. Colors are good as you would expect with a first party lens but
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even in an inexpensive lens like this I felt like images had a richness to them and so images
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actually look good almost always if you look at them on a global level and depending on where
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focus was, how close the subject was, they would either look good or a little bit less good when
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looked at at a pixel level depending on some of those other factors I've already mentioned
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Flare resistance was fairly good wide open, a little bit of veiling, a little bit of loss of
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contrast. When you stop down you will see a little bit more of a ghosting pattern there but
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fortunately it's not terrible since we don't have a lens hood here. It handles I think fairly good
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when it comes to that. So in conclusion, this really is an important lens in my opinion. Both
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Canon and Nikon in their offerings here, they've been to this point starting to change on Nikon
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but to this point it's been largely first party options there and so what that means is that the
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inexpensive lenses tend to be really important because if they're reasonably good as I consider
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this lens to be, it's a way for a person to get a better optical performance than a kit lens for
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example or if they want to travel light this certainly qualifies for that. I think a lot of
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people enjoy this lens for street for example and so there are certainly things to recommend it
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It's cheap, it's lightweight, it's better optics than the cheap zooms that you might get in kit
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I think that it does make more of an argument for itself as a value lens at $230 rather than $300
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and I wouldn't be surprised if we see prices kind of stay down at this point now that they've been
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discounted and I think at that price it really makes a pretty compelling argument for itself
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Not as sharp as the Viltrox but it has some other things that are definitely going for it
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and again I'll detail more of those in the head-to-head competition. So if you're looking for
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a kind of a standard or normal angle of view and you don't want to spend a ton of money, this is a
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great lens because it's so compact and lightweight you can throw it in your bag and bring it along
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and have that alternate angle of view. So it's a lens that I actually intend to use myself
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and I am going to add and keep to my own personal kit. I'm Dustin Abbott and if you want more
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information you can look at the full text review that's linked in the description down below
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Also linkage there to an image gallery and some buying links if you'd like to purchase one
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Now if you're interested in a deeper dive into the optical performance, let's jump in together and see what we find. Okay so we'll start by taking a look at vignette
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and distortion. So as noted distortion itself is really really low. You can see just the tiniest
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little bit of bulge there in the middle. I used a plus two to correct for it and I got basically
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perfectly straight lines. So no big deal there. You can see vignette is a whole other issue
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however. It is definitely not only strong in the corners but you can see it penetrates pretty far
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into the frame. Just giving the whole kind of frame a little bit of a dingy look and you can
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see even pretty much maxing out the sliders that it took all of that and arguably just a hair more
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to fully correct for it. Now in this case both of these shots have the standard profile attached
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to them and so you can see the f2 shot it definitely still has kind of a bit of a vignette
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look to it even after correction and here at f3.5 you know all other things being equal you can see
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just how much brighter everything looks towards the edges of the frame. So that goes to show that
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even the standard correction profile really doesn't completely eliminate that very heavy vignette
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Now when it comes to longitudinal chromatic aberrations you can see particularly a little
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bit of green fringing after the plane of focus. You can also tell it's not really strongly pronounced
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the shot here for example of these daisies you know there's the potential for fringing around
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the edges and what I see more so than the color fringing is more just a probably just a spherical
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aberration to where there's just not quite perfect contrast and so there's a little bit of bleeding
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at the edges less than a kind of a bright color look it's more just a bleeding that happens so
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it's not a crisp transition from the light to the darker background. Now when it comes to resolution
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and contrast using a 45 megapixel Nikon Z8 body this is at 200 percent magnification you can see
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that in the center of the frame that resolution and contrast is good but not exceptionally so
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it's just not really knock your socks off sharp for sure. Mid-frame actually looks a little bit
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soft to my eye you can just see there's a lot of lacking contrast and just not a lot of fine detail
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as we get down to the corner it gets kind of progressively worse this side not looking too
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bad but by the time you get to the edge it basically has fallen apart. Now what's interesting
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at least in this copy of the lens I would argue that it's better on the left side of the frame
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than it is on the right and so maybe not perfectly centered here but you can see up here in the
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corner even if this represents the stronger side quote-unquote you can see that it definitely still
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is losing contrast towards the edges of the frame look at the black levels here compared to the
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black levels there. Now if I compare this to the Viltrox 40 millimeter f 2.5 and put both lenses
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at f 2.5 in the center of the frame you can see that the Viltrox is sharper and more contrasty
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not by a huge margin but take a look at this writing here and compare it to what you see on
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the Viltrox you can just see everything looks a little bit inkier when we get to the mid-frame
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however it's a huge difference I mean you can see the Viltrox looks pretty flawless whereas the
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Nikkor lens just looks pretty soft if we look over on the left side where the Nikkor is better
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we can see that the Viltrox is still better better contrast and detail than what the Nikkor lens is
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and if we compare this zone down here you can see that you know the Nikkor doesn't look bad but the
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Viltrox does look a bit better we look over on this side and the difference is definitely more
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pronounced once again now going back just to the Nikkor lens let's see how it does when you stop
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it down a bit from f 2 to f 2.8 that stop you can see contrast is definitely improved here in this
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zone in the ship you can see more detail the writing is a little bit darker looking at the
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mid-frame this mid-frame zone right here really looks not great down on this side it is better but
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you can see it's still not amazing and we can see that there's improvement definitely to contrast
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vignette is starting to lift and looking better but you can also still see that there's not a lot
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of great detail there in the corners of the frame from f 2.8 to f4 you can see that the corners
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start to improve with a little bit more improvement by f 5.6 and then definitely more improvement by
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f8 by f8 things are looking pretty great here though this zone in the mid-frame is still kind
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of weak to my eye it's better on this side but it's actually not great as of yet down in this
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zone it's just you can tell that the mid-frame is not the strength for this lens this side looks
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pretty good at f8 and up into this corner is looking pretty good upper right corner is looking
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pretty good at f8 as well as i noted earlier in the summary however i do think this lens performs
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better out at further distances than what i would for my chart test so if i'm looking at this f2
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image and so obviously in the center of the frame looks pretty good and if i move off to the edge of
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the frame here i can tell that it's softer but it really doesn't look too bad certainly what i would
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consider usable likewise on this side it looked quite usable right out to the edge of the frame
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at the same time if i compare to f 5.6 and we revisit this you can see how much it really
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has improved how much brighter this edge looks how much crisper the textures are if we look even in
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these stones on the building you can just see there's so much more detail that's present there
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over here on this bridge and as we pan out towards the side you can see looking for example in this
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fallen tree back here it's just it's a little indistinct by comparison they're much crisper here
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and so obviously this is a lens that does benefit from stopping it down so returning to the chart
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for the moment we can see that diffraction is starting to soften things a bit by f11 though
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not by a whole lot here and by f16 it has softened yet more but not nearly as extreme as what i see
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on some lenses this is not too bad a performance when it comes to dealing with diffraction so while
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we have a pretty decent level of magnification here i'm not super impressed by the up-close
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performance it just doesn't have a lot of detail and sharpness at f2 you can see in this real
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world three-dimensional shot i mean there's a little bit of fringing there that's not the major problem here it's more just a lack of contrast up close where you know there's some
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information there but it doesn't really look crisp if you move out just a little bit further
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things start to improve though you can see that the textures aren't exactly popping but overall
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i really like the look of the image it's handled all these areas of transition to defocus kind of
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these transition zones they actually look quite good this shot here it's holding up well and
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you can see that the shape of the specular highlights really looks quite good in that shot
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now when it comes to flare resistance you can see a little bit of ghosting unveiling more like
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just some prismatic haze right there at the kind of epicenter of the sun here's another shot here
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and you can see in this composition there's a tiny bit of a ghosting pattern but if it wasn't
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kind of a uniform background you probably wouldn't see it you stop the lens down this is at f11 you
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can see that the ghosting pattern does become a little bit more pronounced but never too bad
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i never could produce much in terms of a sun star that's not really a strength for this lens
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this final shot here is one that i'll show in comparison to the viltrox and so we can see
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all the good and the bad here so as far as the the bad the contrast and detail isn't spectacular here
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but the backdrop and the bokeh is quite nice and there's far less outlining than what we'll see on
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the viltrox lens i'm going to call the image quality performance here balanced rather than
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particularly strong in one direction or another well thanks as always still stick around to the
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very end and i hope that the optical deep dive has illuminated some things for you and helped
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you to make a more informed buying decision as always thanks for watching have a great day and