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Sony Unveils the a7II Mirrorless – Preorder Now

Dustin Abbott

November 26th, 2014

Sony A7II

Sony has been a company on a mission in their imaging division over the past several years.  They have been introducing some of the best sensors in the business.  I have been watching the A7 and A7R since their release and have been very tempted to pull the trigger.  And now that Sony has launched the second generation, I am even more tempted.  The camera now comes with a five axis image stabilizer built right into the body with a claimed 4.5 stops of assistance.  There are a lot of lenses in my kit that would love that!

B&H has the camera listed for preorder for $1699 for the body only or $1998 including a 28-70mm lens. (Click the links to take a look or preorder).  Both prices are great when you consider the spec list, which is seriously impressive.

Sony A7II specs

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svbUXedWsbA

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Canon EF 16-35mm f/4L IS Lens Gallery

Dustin Abbott

September 27th, 2014

Sample Images (Processed)

Here are a series of images taken with the lens that I’ve added a little processing flair to. These will give you an idea of what can be achieved with the lens.  For the full review, click here:

Sample Images (Unprocessed)

This series of images will give a sense of what the lens can do “right out of the box”.  These have only received conversions from RAW to JPEG and in some cases the highlights or shadows have been slightly tweaked for balanced exposure.

Full Size Samples

Finally, here are three full size samples.  Just click on the image to open the full size shot in a separate window.

Full Size 3

16mm, f/5.6, ISO 500 – Handheld

Full Size 1

33mm, f/4, ISO 200 – Handheld

Full Size 2

16mm, f/8, ISO 100, shot from tripod

Gear Used:

Canon EOS 6D DSLR Camera (Body Only)
Canon EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM Lens
Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 Software for Mac and Windows (Boxed Version)
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure 6

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52014 in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Pre-Order Exciting New Sigma Products

Dustin Abbott

September 12th, 2014

Sigma just announced a bunch of new, exciting products at Photokina.  You can go ahead and get your preorder in on any of these by clicking the link below…although most of these products still don’t have prices attached to them.

 

Click this link to view all of the new products and place your preorder:

New Sigma Products

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Zeiss APO Sonnar T 2/135mm ZE Review

Dustin Abbott

July 25th, 2014

Focus Ring threads

This review is unlike any that I have done previously. It is my first Zeiss review, and other than the new $4000+ Zeiss 55mm f/1.4 Otus Distagon, this is probably the best Zeiss lens currently available. Those of you are familiar with my review style know that I am frequently trying to evaluate the balance between cost and value. But when you are reviewing a Zeiss lens the paradigm completely changes. Reviewing a Zeiss lens is more akin to reviewing a fine watch or a piece of jewelry. Practical value takes a backseat to beauty and artistic merit. People don’t buy Zeiss lenses because they are cheap; they buy them because they want the best.

The 135mm f/2 Apo Sonnar T* ZE is not a lens you buy on a whim or for a single job; it’s a lens that you buy for life. It is constructed to last a lifetime (in Japan, not Germany – ???), and really, the longer you keep it (and continue to produce stunning images with it), the more its intrinsic value will rise. It is a very well-crafted optical tool, and everything looks and feels quality about it. Those who value fine craftsmanship will appreciate the Zeiss. It has a beautiful semi-gloss sheen on its minimalistic barrel. It is solid and heavy (32.8oz/930g), which makes it nearly a quarter heavier than the Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM Lens (26.5oz/750g). These photos will give you a sense of the size comparison with the 135L. Note the Zeiss does change length during focus (quite significantly) while the Canon is internally focusing and will not change length. One plus on the Zeiss side is that it’s hood is designed in such a way that it fits tightly against the side the lens’ barrel during storage. The Canon hood, by contrast, bulges somewhat and makes the 135L actually bulkier for storage than the Zeiss. Like the rest of the construction, the Zeiss’ hood is all metal and very finely crafted. Its metal (of course!) filter thread accepts 77mm filters, which are fairly large but are also quite common. The lens does not claim weather sealing and has no rubber gasket at the mount (neither does the Canon 135L, for that matter).

The Zeiss is designed to last as long as you (and maybe longer). It is a tool, yes, but it is a premium tool that will give both satisfaction and pride of ownership. As soon as you open the box you will find a checklist where a real person has sat down with your lens and assured that all is as it should be…and then signed their name to affirm it. Those that love beautiful, well engineered pieces of kit will love this lens! It is also a lens that approaches optical perfection…if you nail focus.

Ahh, and therein lies the rub. Many (most) people will pass this lens by for one simple reason: it is a manual focus lens. You can hold the shutter release button down halfway all day and nothing will happen. No motor will magically move the elements into alignment to achieve focus. The responsibility is yours. That being said, things are somewhat different than the experience you might remember with vintage lenses. There is still electronic coupling to the body, and so the aperture iris is controlled from the camera body just like any other lens. There is no manual aperture ring on the lens. Furthermore, the lens does submit all EXIF data to the body along with (and this is a welcome addition) focus confirmation via a beep and the relevant dot/square in the viewfinder lighting up. The latter addition helps significantly when focusing with most modern bodies, as their “stock” focusing screens were not designed with manual focus in mind. Some bodies will allow their focus screens to be exchanged, but other popular models (like the Canon EOS 5DMKIII) do not. Nailing shots with the very shallow DOF allowed by the Sonnar can be challenging, and manual focus is an art form. It bears mentioning that the Zeiss also lacks any kind of image stabilizer.

Unless you are much better at quick manual focus than I, this probably won’t be a great choice for event or sports work. I used it briefly for a recent event I was shooting, and, while I used it fairly successfully, one must develop a certain predictive style to nail shots. I would not personally use it in critical situations like a wedding ceremony. The chance of missing a crucial shot due to missed focus is simply too high.

Premium Image Quality

But all is not lost.

23 Kitty

There is something uniquely magical about the experience of shooting with a manual lens. I have a number of old manual everything lenses that I just get “in the mood” for periodically. The shooting experience becomes more organic and less sterile than the “point and shoot” options. I find that I often produce some of my best, most creative work while using a manual focus lens. Because you have time to think, you are often more aware of things like composition, appropriate depth of field, and angle of view. You will probably shoot fewer frames, but your keeper rate may just be higher. The good news is that if you have the time and inclination to be more deliberate with your shooting, the Zeiss will reward you with some truly stunning images. It’s optics are monstrously good.

I will make a few comparisons with a very logical competitor for Canon shooters, the EF 135mm f/2L lens. The 135L, despite its advancing years, is treasured by many Canon shooters like myself for its great sharpness, amazing bokeh, and very fast focus speed. It produces images that have an intangible special quality, and has been my favorite portrait lens. But it is not a lens without flaws. It does have some issues with CA (chromatic aberrations), and while sharp in the center wide open, that same sharpness does not extend to the extreme corners. It isn’t entirely resistant to flare, and when stopped down bokeh highlights become more hexagonal than round.

The Sonnar is without question superior in its optics in all of these areas. It is extremely difficult to find fault with the image quality, as it is, in a word, magical. When focus is nailed it is bitingly sharp, its color rendering is exquisite, and the “drawing” of the defocused region both before and beyond the plane of focus is utterly creamy and smooth. CA is virtually nonexistent, and the sharpness extends out towards the edges of the frame, allowing any composition one desires. The lack of CA means that you can shoot in just about any lighting situation without fearing your image being destroyed by harsh lighting transitions and color fringing. I was also reviewing the older Sigma 50mm f/1.4 DG prime lens (not the new ART series lens) at the same time, and in all honesty the Zeiss probably ruined me for that lens. The Sigma has SO MUCH green fringing and a utter lack of micro contrast that we kindly call “dreamy” rendering. Uggg…

Compared head to head with the Canon 135L at high magnification levels the Zeiss very obviously has an advantage in micro-contrast, sharpness, and has less chromatic aberrations. In this test I used a tripod, manually focused both lenses using 10x Live View, and shot the sequences within about 8 minutes so that the lighting would be uniform. The variables should be fairly constant. The wide open shots (f/2) look noticeably sharper and more contrasty at 1:1 magnification. The Zeiss produces slightly more creamy bokeh, and the bokeh highlights remain round a little longer than on the Canon as you step down, although the aperture blades are not completely rounded on the Zeiss. The Canon, by contrast, will start to produce hexagonal bokeh shapes when stopped down more than two stops.

But the true story is shown when you zoom into 1:1 magnification on the f/2 (wide open) samples:

Canon Left | Zeiss Right

Canon Left| Zeiss Right

I was simply floored at how much more the Zeiss out-resolves the already excellent Canon. I thought the Canon was sharp, but compared to the Zeiss…just wow! The difference in micro-contrast is equally staggering. Chart testing is not part of my review process, but this comparison done by my friend Bryan Carnathan makes clear just how much better the Zeiss is in both sharpness and micro-contrast.

This shot shows the absolutely gorgeous subject isolation that the Zeiss is capable of.

Friday is for Fences

It also highlights another very high point of the Zeiss; it offers a very, very useful minimum focus distance and maximum magnification. The minimum focus distance is only 31.5″ (800mm) compared to a minimum focus distances of 35.4″ (900mm) on the Canon. That translates into a .25x maximum magnification compared to the Canon’s .19x. I have always found the minimum focus distance useful on the Canon for tightly framed headshots and even as a pseudo macro lens with extension tubes, so I was very delighted with the even greater capacity of the Zeiss. With extension tubes this could serve as a very nice macro lens replacement (where manual focus is often a benefit), and it’s performance here is best in class. (It is best in class in every optical category, for that matter.)

30 Macro

Perhaps more important is this means that a portrait photographer can frame headshots as tightly as just about anyone will be comfortable with! Minimum focus distance should almost never be an issue.

35 Headshots

Oh, and take a look at the resolution…

36 Detail

I’m of the opinion that adding softness to a portrait is always easier than adding sharpness! I would rather start with a sharp image and reduce that sharpness in post if necessary.

It would be wrong to not take a moment and dwell on the incredibly smooth bokeh (out of focus area) produced by the Zeiss. It is incredible! It “draws” beautifully, with the out of focus regions before and after the plane of focus soft and creamy. The utter lack of chromatic aberration means that the bokeh highlights are not harshly outlined. The narrow depth of field created by the large aperture produces great subject isolation. The end result is that this lens seems capable of making just about everything look good! Even very simple subjects are beautiful because of the optical quality. Here is a little gallery to feast your eyes on.

The Zeiss also has no observable distortion – lines stay perfectly straight.

But despite all of this optical goodness, the Sonnar is unlikely to replace the 135L for many shooters for that one practical limitation – the lack of AF.

Manual Focus Only

That leads us to a discussion of the practical reality of focusing a Zeiss lens. The experience is not dissimilar to the process of focusing some of the premium lenses from the manual era. Like many of the Asahi Takumar lenses of the 60s and 70s, the construction of the lens is all metal and glass. There is no rubberized grip on the focus ring, nor really a dedicated ring in the traditional sense. There is a ribbed section on part of the body that provides the grip for focusing, and it is (like most everything on a Zeiss lens), precision crafted metal. The majority of the lens body is dedicated to the business of focusing, and, as is appropriate, the focusing action is near perfect. It is beautifully damped with just the appropriate amount of resistance. The range of movement from minimum focus to infinity is not insignificant, so be prepared to twist fast if rapid focus shift is required. I was actually surprised by the length of the focus throw. It seems to take a long time to get from close to infinity focus. The lens barrel extends as you get closer to macro focus. The trade-off, of course, is a high degree of precision while focusing. The focus confirm chip (causing the suitable red AF point to light up along with a small confirmation “beep”) is a big help in nailing focus.

In my own personal experience I found that I preferred shooting subjects in close to medium range where I felt more confident that I could judge accurate focus with my eye. I found that I personally missed focus slightly more often with longer distance (outside of 25 feet) shots. That is probably a personal shortcoming. Overall, however, my keeper rate was very high. I added a high number of images to my portfolio that I am very proud of.

The Zeiss serves as an excellent portrait lens. It provides fantastic subject isolation and delineation, and of course the color and beautiful bokeh rendering makes for an excellent performer. It has that “magical” quality portrait photographers love so dearly. With familiarity I feel that most portrait photographers would probably quickly forget that the lens is manual focus only, and in many cases the more still nature of the subject means that nailing focusing is not overly difficult. I love using some of my manual vintage glass in just this kind of setting. And if you are a tripod shooter (which I rarely am), a manual focus lens becomes even less of an impediment.

Crop Sensor Observations

I did mount the Zeiss via adapter on my EOS M body for an afternoon. I wanted to experience it on a crop sensor (where it acts as a 216mm f/2.8 prime) and also experience what the focus would be like for those that use it on a mirrorless body. The focusing experience changes slightly, as one ceases to worry about focus confirm and concentrates more on visually achieving focus (perhaps aided by the magnification tool on the screen). The focusing process was fairly easy and really only restricted by the awkward balance that requires you to primarily support the lens with the hand that you typically use for focus. The results show me that crop shooters will also be happy with this lens for its nearly perfect optics and gorgeous drawing.

Who Is It For?

The final group that will really be interested in the Zeiss are videographers. Many of you prefer Zeiss lenses not only for their build quality but also for the fact that the lens is designed around manual focus. For many lenses the manual focus aspect is an after thought, but not so with a Zeiss. Zeiss lenses also have a slightly cool color rendering that is naturally very cinematic.

Is it good? Oh yes, it is very, very good. But the big question for many shooters at this juncture will be, “Is it twice as good?” Because despite the lack of AF and the stellar reputation of the 135L, the Zeiss easily costs twice as much. At the moment, the Canon sells for $1089 from my friends at B&H and the Zeiss rings in at $2122. While on that subject, let me offer up a small niggle: the Zeiss comes with no protective case despite its premium price. It has the lens hood, a few papers in the box, and that’s it. My Lowepro 2S case fits it nicely, but that exact case is no longer available. Surely Zeiss could throw in something to help protect this gorgeous lens! (Finally, one place where the lowly Sigma wins!)

But back to reality. Few potential Zeiss buyers are looking at it for the “value”. You are considering this lens primarily because it is the best.

And it is that.

40 One More

It’s optics are noticeably better than one of the best medium telephoto lenses out there. It is built like a fine Swiss watch. I loved looking at the front element and the shiny metal filter ring, not to the mention the smooth, glossy finish of the barrel. If you are the type of person that needs the best, look no further. If you are a person who doesn’t mind being a little more deliberate, and, dare I say, artful, in your approach to shooting, you will find the Zeiss an absolute delight.

Will it be replacing my 135L? Probably not. Until I shot with the Zeiss I thought the performance of the 135L was fantastic, and I will still enjoying shooting with it. I knew that the Zeiss would be better before I did the review, although I was surprised by just how noticeably better it was in head to head comparison. But for many of the applications that I use the 135L in, I need the AF. But I’m also not a full time professional photographer, and frankly, there are a few higher priorities for that kind of money in my kit at the moment. I’ll keep using my trusty Canon, but I will cherish the images that I took with the Zeiss. And one day, there WILL be a Zeiss lens in my kit. They are just too good.

Is the Zeiss worth the money? That, my friend, is up to you. Do you have to have the best?

Pros and Cons

Pros:
• Stunning build quality
• Even more stunning optics
• Virtually nonexistent CA
• Sharpness extends to edge of frame
• Gorgeous bokeh rendering in both the fore and the back grounds.
• Flawless focus action
• Gorgeous color rendition
• One of the best lenses on the planet

Cons:
• Manual Focus only
• Price!
• No image stabilizer
• No protective case included
• Heavy (but in a good way).

I have presented images in this review that have not been processed in any kind of significant way. They were shot RAW, but have received only standard conversions. If you would like to see more images, including some favorites processed in my typical style, please visit the image gallery here:

I reviewed a retail copy of the Zeiss APO Sonnar T 2/135mm ZE provided by my friends at B&H Photo (thanks!). Please support them when you purchase, and by purchasing through the links in this article you help to keep this website going and current. Thank you!

Gear Used:

Canon EOS 6D DSLR Camera (Body Only)
Zeiss 135mm f/2 Apo Sonnar T* ZE Lens for Canon EF Mount
Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM Lens
EOS M Mirrorless Digital Camera with 18-55mm Lens and Flash Kit (Black)
Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 Software for Mac and Windows (Boxed Version)
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure 6

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52014 in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

 

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DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

How (and Why) I Took the Shot #3: Inferno

Dustin Abbott

April 22nd, 2014

Inferno

I think you will probably agree that the “why” of this particular shot is pretty self-explanatory. Being able to capture moments like these is pretty much what keeps a landscape photographer going. I arose early on Good Friday morning, took a quick look out the window, and knew that I wouldn’t be going back to bed. You only have so many days with a fabulous dawn. After dressing and preparing my gear in haste, I traveled to a spot where I knew roughly what I would have to work with to enhance the great sky.

This is one of the keys to being a successful landscape photographer – scouting. Amazing skies don’t automatically produce amazing photos. I have seen some shots of fabulous skies that were completely ruined by the entirely uninteresting nature of the foreground.

Foreground matters.

This is doubly true if you use a wide angle lens and compose in a portrait orientation as I have done here. My 14mm lens has an incredibly wide angle of view, and composing like this means that the foreground is somewhat exaggerated. That exaggeration produces very visually compelling images…if the photographer does a good job of composing the shot. It also means that some serious thought needs to be put into the foreground and to visualize how the final shot will appear.

I have shot at this location before. It is close enough to my house that I could travel there in time to make the most of the colors in the rising sun. I also knew I had some visually compelling elements to work with: the river, large rocks, some trees, and a dock. I wasn’t sure what the state of the ice would be along this stretch, but that worked out well to provide some additional visual interest.

Setting up my gear for this shot was a bit interesting. I obviously had no interest in getting in that water, but I wanted the shot to be framed from out on the water. This meant spreading my tripod out low and getting it to rest on the thin ice sheet. I had to reach out as far as I could to set it in place, and then fought with getting everything to balance as the ice sheet would start to tip from the weight of the gear. I eventually found a point of equilibrium, and got the framing that I wanted. I used the camera’s self-timer to reduce any chance of vibration.

I also chose to shoot three bracketed shots to get a very broad dynamic range. I knew this would enable me to get both clean detail in the shadows and also prevent the highlights from the rising sun getting blown out. I kept the original exposure on the low (underexposed) side to get the primary look I wanted.

In post, I took the three exposures here into Photoshop as layers from Lightroom:

 

In Photoshop I hand-blended the layers by using a series of luminosity masks from Tony Kuyper. I primarily wanted the range of light in the brightest part of the image from the -3 EV image and then to recapture the foreground detail information from the +3 EV image. The trees I wanted to keep as silhouettes. When I finished there, I took the image into Alien Skin Exposure 5 to work with the color. I chose to emphasize lavender and magenta hues that nicely brought out the nuance in the sky. After bringing the image back into Photoshop, I duplicated the “Alien Skin” layer and changed the blend mode to “Soft Light” at about 40% percent to add some contrast and punch to the image. I did a very slight bit of dodging and burning, and that was that.

The finished image allows the the sky to shine but also gives the eye a lot of other things to look at: bubbles and textures in the ice, both the submerged and the dry rocks, the silhouettes from the bare trees, and then the details of the little dock. Hopefully there are a few things in this little article that will provide you that extra bit of motivation you need to get out and produce something special of your own.

Gear Used:

Canon EOS 6D DSLR Camera (Body Only)
Rokinon 14mm Ultra Wide-Angle f/2.8 IF ED UMC Lens For Canon
Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 Software for Mac and Windows (Boxed Version)
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure 5

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52014 in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! If you want to go directly to this lens, click here: Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Circular Polarizer Where?!!

Dustin Abbott

March 22nd, 2014

The StingrayMany of you are familiar with the traditional uses of a circular polarizer.  They help in keeping blue skies blue, improving color saturation, and reduce glare in bright conditions.  They are like a good pair of sunglasses for your lens.

In the perfect world for photographers, it would always be “golden hour”.  The light would be soft and directional, making even mundane things appear rich and interesting.  But in the real world golden hour only comes (at best) twice a day, and often not at all.  Experienced photographers learn to use things like circular polarizers and ND (neutral density) filters to help control the light in less than ideal conditions.  These filters are particularly helpful when the light is more harsh and glaring.  I personally like to have a circular polarizer available for all my lenses.

But this little article isn’t about using a circular polarizer in a conventional way.

It’s about why I screw on a circular polarizer in a very dark place like interior spaces at zoos and, most recently, at an aquarium.  What?!!

Over the March break (2104) my family and I visited the Pigeon Forge/Gatlinburg area of Tennessee for the first time.  One of the places we visited while there was the “Ripley’s Aquarium of the Smokies” in Gatlinburg.  Let me add as an aside that this aquarium was really quite excellent and was enjoyed by every member of our family.

An aquarium is a dark place.  The ambient light is very, very low to allow greater contrast on the lighting in the tanks, which typically isn’t that bright, either.

So dark environment and low light = polarizer?

If you are confused at this point, it is definitely understandable.  The standard circular polarizer typically reduces the light that hits the sensor by about two stops, which can mean a drastic change in ISO settings to compensate.  I should add that the technique that I am about to discuss works much better with a full frame camera that handles low light more efficiently.  My Canon EOS 6D is one of the absolute champs in this regard, so it is a great companion to this technique, even when using a relatively “slow” variable aperture lens like my EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM Lens.  The good news is that high ISO performance is improving on most camera systems right now, so this technique will serve more people as time passes.

16 Lionfish

In these type of environments there is a secondary reason (beyond the low light) that explains why most people’s pictures don’t turn out very good – reflections.  Glass and acrylic surfaces are notorious for reflecting ambient light and causing photos to look either completely unnatural or very washed out.  Worse, many people will use a flash because A) their camera automatically flashes and they don’t know how to turn it off or B) because they feel like they need more light.  Our eyes are amazing tools, able to naturally filter out these distracting reflections, balance the lighting, and focus on what really matters, but cameras are far less sophisticated.  Countless people have come home from such places with amazing memories but lousy pictures.

A good circular polarizer is a huge ally in this type of scenario, because, when used properly, it will eliminate the vast majority of distracting reflections and allow you to take pictures that will seem as if you “inside” the tank or the enclosure.  The key to making this work is visual…and simple – you just rotate the polarizer until you see the reflections disappear.

14 Dragon Foot

As photographers, we are often fixated in low light situations on maximizing the amount of light that reaches the sensor.  But consider this little tip the next time you are in this kind of environment.  It may seem counter-intuitive, but screw on that circular polarizer and watch the quality of your captures improve.  P.S.  I use Hoya filters almost exclusively.  I find they provide the best balance between price and performance.  Be sure to get one that is multicoated (MC) to reduce glare and reflections.

15 JellyThe Stingray

Gear Used:

EOS 6D DSLR Camera (Body Only)
EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM Lens
67mm Circular Polarizer Super-HMC Thin Filter

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming.  Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

How (and Why) I Took the Shot #2: Persistance

Dustin Abbott

February 16th, 2014

Persistance 2

Preface:  This is the second post in a new series where I will tell you a little bit about a certain shot, focusing on how I shot it and equally importantly, why I shot it.

Photography is about the individual.  We don’t all see the same things.  Much like opinions, a photographer’s eye (and mind) is uniquely shaped by their personality, experiences, and influences.  I hope to let you “into my head” a little bit and show you how I think…and why I clicked!

Why I Took the Shot

Winter came early this year, and shows no signs of being in a hurry to leave. It has been a hard one. Cold, bleak, and with heavy storms. Winter at its best can be fabulously beautiful, but amongst all the seasons it is also most likely to come with a lot of dark, dreary days.

It doesn’t help that as winter sets in, most of the color gets leeched from the world. The trees are bare (other than the evergreens), and that, combined with frequently overcast skies, leaves the world a pretty bleak place. I often feel like the world has become monochrome.  It seems at times like I am stumbling around the woods looking for something with just a hint of color to photograph.  Desperate…..for…..color!!!

It is for this reason that I have a special place in my heart for the beech tree.  It breaks the rules.  Deciduous trees are supposed to lose their leaves.  The word means, “falling off at maturity” or “tending to fall off”.  The beech tree seems to jump through that little loophole left in the word “tending“.

Sure, the leaves dry in the autumn, but instead of releasing and falling to the ground, they….persist.

That persistence speaks to me.  It speaks of survival.  It speaks of determination.  It speaks of “swimming against the current” or persisting against the odds.

And I love the result.  The beach leaves provide beauty and color in a colorless world (kind of like we should be – see Matthew 5:13-16). They stand out as different and unique.  They never fail to lift my spirits when I see them, and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve come home from a hike with some photos of beech leaves.  These two shots were from just such an occasion last week.

How I Took the Shot

On a more practical (and less philosophical) level, I made a few specific choices in framing these two shots.  In the one above, I purposefully chose the shot with two practical concerns in mind:

  1. I chose leaves that were illuminated by some low, angled sun filtering through the trees.  This gave the leaves some luminosity that helped them stand out.
  2. I purposefully chose what my bokeh colors would be by making sure that I aligned the shot with evergreens behind.  I love the interplay of the two primary colors in the shot.

In the shot at the bottom of the article I made a slightly different choice.  I chose to frame the leaves (the same ones) with an area behind them where light was coming through the trees and would create circular bokeh highlights.  I have always been impressed with the great quality of the bokeh highlights created by the optics of Canon’s excellent Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM Lens lens.  It produces bokeh that looks more like a large aperture lens than a relatively slow variable aperture zoom.  What’s more, the bokeh highlights continue to remain nicely circular even when the lens is stopped down somewhat (these shots are f/6.3).  I knew that the lens would do beautiful things with the out of focus highlights, and I think you will agree that my faith was justified.

Because of the framing choices, I had to do very little in post.  I’ve added a bit of contrast and slight bit of saturation (I add no saturation in camera, preferring to do that in post) through a preset I’ve made.  I’ve only used Adobe Lightroom for the adjustments to these images.

In conclusion, let me add one small tidbit:  I am very much a gear guy.  I love trying out new equipment.  Still, there is something to be said for gaining familiarity with equipment and knowing what it will produce in certain situations. My familiarity with my gear allowed me to know in advance how these shots would turn out.  My 70-300L is one of my favorite lenses, and this series just reminds me why.

And that is how (and why) I took the shot.

Equipment I Used:

Canon EOS 6D Full Frame Body (Read my review here: )

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM Lens (Read my review here: )

Adobe Lightroom 5 Editing Software

Persistance

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Dustin Abbott

February 11th, 2014

Hello, everyone!

Over the past several years I have become the “guy” that a lot of people go to when they want to buy gear.  I do my very best to strike the balance for others that I do for myself.  I want to get good quality gear, and I want to spend as little money as possible!  Most of my reviews do consider price as a factor, because in the real world very people are having their gear given to them.  They are buying it with their own hard earned money. I’ve partnered with retailers both here in Canada and in the US to help to get you good deals, and by purchasing through these links you also help me to keep this website going and expanding.  This link will update every week, so check back for more great deals!

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DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.