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Fujinon XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 LM OIS 40MP 2024 Review

Dustin Abbott

April 12th, 2024

Fuji’s XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS lens has been the standard bearer for a premium kit lens since its release in 2013. I’ve heard many, many Fuji shooters brag that the quality of this lens makes other lenses unnecessary. I was a little surprised by being a bit underwhelmed by the lens when I finally reviewed it in 2019. The resolution of Fuji X-mount cameras in 2013 was 16MP, and in 2016 that jumped to 24MP on some models. In 2018 the first 26MP camera (X-T3) was released, and I reviewed it at that resolution level, which is vastly more demanding on lens performance than 16MP. That may explain why I didn’t find the lens as sharp as many people claimed. But in late 2022, Fuji took their biggest jump to what remains at this time the highest resolution of any APS-C sensor – the 40MP X-Trans sensor found in camera like my X-H2. This sensor has been somewhat of a wrecking ball to older lenses, and I’ve been revisiting some of them to see how they they are holding up (and compare to newer models). I recently revisited the venerable XF 18-55mm to see how it held up. The results are very much a mixed bag. Find out the full details in my video review below.

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Thanks to Fujifilm Canada for sending me a review copy of this lens.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. I’m doing this review on a 40MP Fujifilm X-H2 camera.

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The XF 18-55mm is still capable of producing beautiful photos, but they don’t hold up under the level of scrutiny that 40MP affords.

My main findings are in the video review, but if you are more of a text person, I’ll share my review notes along with a more detailed conclusion at the end.

Build and Handling

The Fujinon XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 was always priced higher than most kit lenses due to have a more premium build and performance. Here’s how it fits into the 2024 landscape of pricing for standard zoom lenses on X-mount.

  1. Sigma = $549
  2. Fuji 18-55 = $699* (as little as $400 in kit)
  3. Tamron 17-70mm F2.8 VC ($799)
  4. Fuji 16-55mm = $1199

Few people are paying full retail MSRP for this lens, as most will either get it in a kit (for a whopping $300 discount!) or on the used market where it is often available for $300 or less, which obviously helps its value in relation to the other lenses on the list.

Here’s a breakdown of what the R | LM | OIS mean in the lens’ name:

R = Ring | LM = Linear Motor | OIS = Optical Image Stabilization

Here are some my build observations.

  • Shortest lens (6mm shorter than Sigma, 36mm shorter than 16-55)
  • 65 x 70.4mm (D x L) | (2.56 x 2.77”) | 310g (11 oz)
  • Has variable aperture (aperture closes fast!)
    • F3.2 by 20mm
    • F3.6 by 30mm
    • F4 by 42mm
  • Has OIS.
  • Has aperture ring, but due to being variable aperture, there are no markings or hard stops
  • No weather sealing
  • Poorest manual focus ring (easy to accidentally grab because it is close to zoom lens, manual focus moves in very obvious steps rather than smoothly.
  • Lowest magnification of four options – 0.15x @ 30cm
  • Holds up well – finish and rings hold up over long haul.

Fuji’s design language has changed little over the years, so the lens doesn’t really look or feel dated. It feels as premium as most of their other nicer lenses.

Autofocus

The XF 18-55mm has Fuji’s premium LM (Linear Focus Motor) technology, but clearly the technology has improved over time, as the focus system feels dated here in relation to the other three options.

I ranked the lens last in a comparison for stills and gave these reasons:

  • least focus confidence and speed
  • some pulsing before final lock at times
  • hampered by dimmer maximum aperture in lower light
  • Manual focus very “stepped”

Most of the time the autofocus was fine, but I definitely felt like it didn’t hold up as well as newer lenses.

Video Tests:

The XF 18-55mm faired a little better in my video tests, but mostly because none of the four options do great with the state of video autofocus as it stands on Fuji in 2024 (which lags behind other major brands).

  • Focus pulls had fairly good speed and confidence
  • hand test not quite as responsive as other lenses
  • NEGATIVE – will do both pulsing (on fixed shots) and warping (when zooming)

Image Quality Breakdown

MAJOR DISADVANTAGE – 18-55mm Variable aperture – Sigma, Tamron, and Fuji 16-55mm all have constant F2.8 aperture.

Vignette and distortion:

  1. TIE 16-55mm +22 and +48 – mild mustache
  2. 18-55mm +19 and +59 – mild mustache
  3. Sigma +24 and +92 – mild mustache

Chromatic aberrations

  1. 16-55mm (very good)
  2. 18-55mm* (bigger DOF)
  3. Sigma – most fringing before and after

Resolution

  1. Sigma (most consistent on wide end and on telephoto)
    1. True for chart tests and real world results
    1. Even when stopped down sharper than 16-55 on telephoto
  2. 16-55mm – better contrast than 18-55, better detail
  3. 18-55mm – visibly lower contrast throughout zoom range – aperture disadvantage starting at 20mm (F3.2)

The XF 18-55mm peaks at 23mm and fades as you progress towards the telephoto end of the zoom.

Color remains a strength for Fuji lenses, producing images that look great when viewed as a whole.

The bokeh looks fine (actually a little smoother than the 16-55mm F2.8, but there is less opportunity to create bokeh due to a mediocre minimum focus distance and a maximum aperture of F4 on the telephoto end.

Flare resistance isn’t perfect, but remains competitive.

Optically the XF 18-55mm has been eclipsed by newer lenses, with the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 DN being my recommended alternative if you want a similarly compact lens that’s a little stronger optically.

Conclusion

The 40MP X-Trans sensor remains a very challenging one for Fuji’s catalog lenses for the simple reason that they weren’t engineered for such incredibly optical demands. Modern expectations are higher, and it is pretty clear that Fuji has plans to replace this lens soon. So should you still consider it in 2024 (or later)? There are few reasons to say a qualified yes. The first is that you can still make beautiful images with the lens:

More specifically, however, here the reasons I would consider this lens:

  • Price: if you are buying this lens on the used market, there’s a very solid chance you can get it considerably cheaper than alternative zooms.
  • OIS – this lens and the much larger Tamron 17-70mm F2.8 VC (my review here) are the only ones with in lens stabilization, and if you have a camera without in-camera stabilization, this could be a big factor.

Obviously if you are using one of Fuji’s older cameras, this lens will hold up better optically.

If you are interested in this lens, nabbing a used copy off of Ebay might be your best bet.

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GEAR USED:

Purchase the Fujinon XF 18-55mm F2.8-F4 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Nuzira | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay

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Purchase the Fujifilm X-H2 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

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Purchase the Fujifilm X-T5 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Find it Used at KEH 

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Purchase the Fujifilm X-S20 @ B&H Photo | Adorama  | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany |

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Keywords: Fujinon, Fuji XF, Fuji 18-55, Fujinon 18-55, XF, Fujinon XF 18-55mm, F2.8-4, F/2.8-4, Fuji, Fuji 18-55mm review, Fujinon 18-55 Review, Fujinon 16-55mm F2.8 Review, Dustin Abbott, Fujifilm, 40MP, X-H2, Fuji X-H2, Fujinon, Review, Hands On, Video Test, Sharpness, Autofocus, CA, Video AF, XF 16-55mm F2.8, Lens, Comparison, Test, Dustinabbott.net, Sample Images, Sample Video, Normal, Portrait, Travel, Canada, Myrtle Beach, let the light in, weathersealing, #letthelightin, DA

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NiSi V7 Landscape Filter System Review + Gallery

Dustin Abbott

March 31st, 2022

My first encounter with the company NiSi was actually to review their first lens.  NiSi has historically been a company that has made filters for other people’s lenses, and a search of their products shows a lot of filters with very high reviews.  But at some point they clearly decided that their optical glass expertise could just as easily go into the construction of lenses themselves, which has produced the very intriguing NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH lens.  That positive experience made me open to checking out NiSi’s main event – filters and filter systems.  I’ve been testing their new V7 Filter System over the past few months in a variety of environments; from the Arctic temperature of Canada in deep winter:

…to the sun-kissed beaches of South Carolina:

The V7 Filter System proved to be a great companion in both environments, and I’ll quickly break down why in mini-review.  If you want a deeper dive into the review, I would recommend watching my video review.  It’s easier to visually demonstrate some things rather than just describing them.

The NiSi V7 Filter System is not designed around adding filters to certain lenses that cannot use traditional screw-in filters.  One of the earliest such systems that I reviewed was for adding filters to the Samyang 14mm F2.8 manual focus lens.  That system was basically a huge pain.  It was large and clunky, difficult to mount, and the filters were not of the highest quality.  I’ve reviewed other such systems for other lenses along the way, and, while the quality was frequently better, they still ended up being rather large and cumbersome.  The V7 Filter system is not designed around adapting a specific lens for filter use, but rather for giving versatility for using filters for any lens with traditional filter threads in sizes up to 82mm.  The byproduct of this is that the basic kit is nicely compact and comes with a really nice case to store it all in:

That kit comes with several step-up rings in the most popular sizes (67mm, 72mm, 77mm), though you may need to purchase an additional step up ring if your lens doesn’t have one of those filter thread sizes.  Fortunately step up rings are inexpensive.  

There are two primary reasons to invest in a square filter system like this (this is considered a 100mm square system):  the first is that stacking circular filters with a wide angle lens often leads to vignetting.  The angle of view is so wide that the filters start to cause darkness along the edges of the frame.  A square filter system is wider than the lens diameter and helps avoid this even when using multiple filters.  In this case you can add up to 3 square filters along with the included circular polarizing filter without fear of vignette.  The circular polarizer is a good one; optically sound and well made.  A clever part of the design gives you an external dial that will allow you to rotate the filter even when it is covered by the filter system.  You can use just the circular polarizer portion of the filter system without attaching the square holder, so that could give you a secondary value by just using that filter if all you want is polarizing, like this:

The second big reason to use square filter systems is for the advantage of being able to use graduated filters.  Grad filters don’t have a solid neutral density effect but have the effect only on a part of the filter with either a hard transition or a gradual transition.  The NiSi graduated filters come in a 100 x 150mm size to allow you to slide them up and down.  This can really boost your images by balancing exposure.  In this scene, for example, the bright sky and buildings made for a darker foreground.

By using a medium graduated ND filter on the sky portion of the image, I was able to balance the exposure, and, as a bonus, give a little more character to a somewhat boring sky.

I flipped it around for a different shot.  The underside of a pier on the Atlantic was in shadow, while the waves crashing in were bright and well lit.  I used the grad-ND on the water to bring down the highlights there and thus allowing the pier supports (in shadow) to be properly lit in this shot.

The square filter holder is easy to add onto the circular section (which mounts first via the filter threads of the lens) by using a unique locking screw that allows you to pull it back first (allowing the square filter system to be attached) and then by tightening it down so you have no fear of the filter holder coming off.

A secondary feature that I really like is that filters are held in place by a passive tension system that does a great job of exerting consistent pressure on the filters to hold them in place but gives enough freedom to slide them into the proper position.  There’s nothing that you have to remember to tighten down, which is great, as I’ve been in the situation where I was desperately grabbing at an expensive filter that started to slide out of a filter holder when I went to move the tripod to a new position.

The square 100mm filters have a foam surround that keeps stray light from penetrating (and offers some protection).  All of NiSi’s filters have nano-coatings on both sides to make them resistant to scratching, oils, etc…  I love using ND filters for getting long exposures in a variety of lighting conditions.  Here, for example, I was able to smooth out the movement of the waves crashing in under that same pier and get a nicely moody shot.

Performance of the filters was good.  NiSi boasts that their filters are “True-Color”, and I can attest that I didn’t see a color cast introduced into my images.  Here’s a shot of the same scene shown earlier, save this time with a 10 stop ND filter along with the CP-L filter attached:

You can see that the color balance is very close to the original scene.  I didn’t feel like I had to do work in post to “fix” white balance with any of the image I took with the system.

I also felt like my resolution results held up with the filters attached.  Here’s a long exposure image taken with the ND1000 (ten stop) and CP-L filters.  You can see from the crop that there is still perfect detail in the scene even on the fairly demanding sensor of the Canon EOS R5 (45MP) that I used for the shot.

I was very impressed with the packaging and presentation of everything that I tested.  Everything comes with some kind of carrying sleeve or pouch to help protect it, and included booklets give you tips, instructions, and charts for getting the most out of your filters (and the right exposure!)

So let’s talk pricing.  Filter systems like the V7 tend to be expensive, and that’s true to some degree here, though NiSi undercuts a lot of other brands by a fair bit.  You have a number of options of kit sizes essentially depending on what all you need.  

The basic filter holder and circular polarizing filter setup runs about $250 USD, but if you step up to something like the “Starter Kit”, you get essentially what I’ve used in this review – a system that includes both a ND1000 filter and the graduated medium-ND filter.  That kit will run you right over $500, and is obviously very popular, as it is already backordered.

Larger kits come with even more filter options and the price climbs relative to what all is included.

The advantage of buying kits is that the price of individual items drops relative to buying them separately, but you also need to be sure that you get what you need for your work and not just get extra pieces that are going to sit in the bag.  I will note for those of you that like to IR work that these filters are design with IR in mind.

I have no significant complaints about the NiSi V7.  I did my review in winter, which is not really the best time of year for me in terms of getting great long exposure images (everything is frozen over!!), but I was happy with both the handling of the system and the results I was able to get.  I was able to pack the filter system along with 5 filters in two pouches small enough to fit into the front pocket of my backpack for travel, so it was easy to bring along with me.  This system isn’t cheap, but it is also isn’t lens specific, which means that you can purchase one time and use it for pretty much the rest of your photography career as long as you take care of everything.  So get out there and make some magic!

The best way to get a deeper look at and demonstration of this system is by checking out my video below…or you can just enjoy the photos I’ve had a chance to take with V7 Filter system below.

 

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Thank you to NiSi for sending me the V7 system for review.  As always, this is a completely independent review.  The opinions here are completely my own.

Photos taken with the NiSi V7 Filter System

 

Gear Used:

Purchase the V7 Filter System at B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

Purchase the NiSi 15mm F4 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany  

Purchase a Sony a7C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Sony Alpha 1 @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase a Sony a9M2 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Sony a9 Camera:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada  | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7RIV Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

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Keywords: NiSi V7, NiSi, V7, Filter System, NiSi V7 Filter System Review, Demonstration, Myrtle Beach, Ocean, Snow, NiSi 15mm F4 review, NiSi 15 F4, F/4, Wide Angle, Hands On, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Sharpness, Bokeh, Flare Resistance, Autofocus, Image Quality, Sample Images, Video, Photography, Sony a9, sony a7III, sony a7RIV, a7R3,  Sony Alpha 1, Sony A1, Canon RF, Nikon Z, Fuji X, Landscape Photography, Filters

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS USM Review

Dustin Abbott

March 22nd, 2022

When the Canon EF 100-400mm F4.5-5.6L IS II released in the beginning of 2015 it effectively ended the question of what the best telephoto zoom in or around this focal length was.  The 100-400L II was a clearly superior lens, with a fabulous build, some new innovative design elements, great autofocus, and amazing image quality.  It released at a time when my own photography budget was much smaller, but I still found a way to buy one after reviewing it because it was so good.  It has remained in my personal kit since that point even though I sold my last DSLR a few years back.   I only own mirrorless camera bodies at this point but have kept the lens because it is excellent and adapts seamlessly to Canon’s mirrorless bodies like my Canon EOS R5.  I’ve been wanting to get my hands on Canon’s new RF equivalent – the Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS – for a long time, but here in Canada supply chain shortages have made loaners (and retail copies!) few and far between.  The RF 100-500L (as we’ll refer to it for brevity in this review) ups the ante in terms of zoom range (an additional 100mm) but at a physical cost ($2900 USD – $500 more than the EF lens) along with a maximum aperture cost (more on that in a moment).

Canon has managed to squeeze out a longer ratio (5x zoom) while reducing the weight of the lens (1365 vs 1650g), making this a truly manageable lens in terms of weight for a focal range like this.  It’s unusual to get this degree of reach from such a (relatively) compact package, but Canon has accomplished this in part by allowing the lens to drift to a smaller maximum aperture than we saw on any Canon lens prior to the mirrorless era.  All Canon lenses in the EF mount were constrained to a maximum aperture of F5.6 for the simple reason that this was the smallest maximum aperture that many camera could focus effectively at.  There were a few cameras towards the end of the era that could focus at smaller maximum apertures, but Canon had to maintain compatibility with their whole camera lineup.  The switch to mirrorless has unshackled Canon, though, as mirrorless cameras can autofocus with much smaller maximum apertures and they no longer had the need to ensure compatibility with legacy cameras.  We quickly saw lenses with a maximum aperture of F6.3, and then F7.1, and even the quirky 600mm and 800m F11 primes.  I will say that it seems very strange to type L after F7.1 (F7.1L); it feels a little sacrilegious.  The image quality from the lens assures me that this is a genuine L series performer, however.

Let’s get the bad new out of the way:  the new RF isn’t as “light efficient” as the older EF lens.  It doesn’t hold the brighter apertures as long with one minor exception.  The new RF lens does hold F4.5 a little longer (151mm vs 135mm) but doesn’t hold F5 or F5.6 nearly as long (the new lens is at F6.3 by 363mm, whereas the older lens was obviously at F5.6 until the end of the zoom range.  The RF 100-500L doesn’t hit F7.1 until the last little bit (472-500mm).  This handy chart from Cameralabs.com illustrates it well:

While the slower aperture is a bit disappointing, there is an alternate way to frame this.  The EF lens required a 1.4x teleconverter to hit 560mm, whereas the RF 100-500L will hit 500mm with the bare lens.  Adding the 1.4x to the F5.6 lens creates a maximum aperture of F8, so in a sense you gain 1/3 stop of light at 500mm.  Nonetheless, this is is going to be a lens that works best with adequate light, though fortunately cameras and focus systems have gotten much better at dealing with lower light situations.  I saw good autofocus with still subjects even in very dim lighting.

This is an expensive lens, obviously, but it is also a very high performing lens that utilizes a dual Nano USM focus system to give even better autofocus results along with outstanding optical performance.  It isn’t a lens that will fit everyone’s budget, but it may just be the lens that should be added to your wish list.  To help you determine if this is a lens for you, check out either my long format definitive  or quick video review below…or just keep reading.

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Thanks to Camera Canada for getting me a loaner of the RF 100-500L.  If you’re in Canada, check them out for a reliable online retailer. *The tests and the photos shown in this review have been taken on my 45 MP Canon EOS R5.

Canon RF 100-500L Build and Handling

Those familiar with Canon L series telephotos will find the Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1 IS instantly familiar.  It has the familiar build materials, white(ish) finish, and a basic arrangement of controls and features much like the EF 100-400L II, though with some updates to the fine details that make for a better looking, more modern lens.  As noted, the RF 100-500L is slightly lighter relative to the EF lens (1365g/3lb vs 1640g/3.61lb).  That’s obviously going to be very welcome when you also get the longer focal range relative to the EF lens.  That weight, while not light, is very moderate for a long telephoto and makes for a lens that is relatively portable. 

It has grown a bit in length relative to the EF lens (207.6mm vs 193mm), though the diameter of 94mm is the same across both lenses, giving you a very common 77mm front filter thread.  The lens hood is a little deeper on the EF lens, though, so the difference in length with the hoods attached (above) is less than with them attached (below):

The 100-500L comes with both a zippered, padded storage case along with a quality lens hood, which, as you can see above, has a very welcome matching finish.  The older EF lens had a black hood that always looked like it was borrowed from another lens!  The hood does reverse for storage, has a locking mechanism, and also features the sliding window in the lens hood to allow access to filters.  I found this feature clever when I reviewed the 100-400L II (where it debuted), but have soured on it since. It seems to always be open (which defeats some of the purpose of the lens hood itself) and the hood is wide enough that you could rotate a filter fine without the window. 

One change relative to the EF lens is the tripod collar design, which, rather than having a removable foot (like the EF version), the entire tripod collar is removable in the traditional style.  I do like being able to completely remove the tripod collar as the lens is light enough for handheld work, though if you carrying the lens on a strap you may find it balances better if you attach one end to the tripod foot.  There are no strap attachment points on the collar, unfortunately, so you would have to attach via a third party attachment to the tripod foot plate (I use Peak Design’s Capture plates).  There are two disappointments on the tripod collar/foot design, however. The first disappointment that is a regular one for Canon lenses is that the tripod foot is not Arca-compatible.  You will have to use a quick release plate or something similar if you are going to put the lens on a tripod.  The second disappointment is that there are no detents on the tripod collar when rotating it.  These help you align properly at the primary points of the compass, so you’ll have to rely on visually aligning the markings on the collar with one on the lens barrel.

Canon has designed the lens with the RF control ring very close to the lens mount.  This allows space beyond for the tripod collar.  The Control Ring has the familiar diamond pattern texture and can be assigned a variety of functions from within the camera.  I typically use it for aperture control.  It does have detents/clicks, though it can be “declicked” for a cost through Canon. 

There are three other rings on the lens, with the next closest to the mount being the manual focus ring.  Like most autofocus mirrorless lenses, the manual focus is “focus-by-wire” where input on the focus ring is actually routed through the autofocus motor to move the focus group.  This means manual focus is actually an emulation of mechanical manual focus, and the performance is fairly typical for Canon RF lenses.  Focus is smooth, but resistance is very light, so you have to be careful at the final fine-tuning stage to not go past your intended target.  Canon’s Focus Guide is available, and it works well for helping achieve proper focus. 

The next ring is the tension ring that debuted on the EF 100-400L II lens.  It is designed to combat zoom creep and hold the desired focal length.  The advantage of the tension ring is that you can set it at any focal length.  You can use it in a secondary fashion to set your desired amount of friction while zooming.  I have found that the “tight” setting doesn’t lock down as tightly as my 100-400L II; you can still move the zoom ring without heavy resistance.  There’s less variability in the zoom friction in general relative to the older lens, but it does have enough friction to eliminate lens creep.

The widest ring here is the zoom ring, which is located near the front of the lens.  The ring is finish in a rubberized surface and moves smoothly (depending on friction setting, obviously).  There is roughly 130 degrees of rotation between 100mm and 500mm and the inner barrel of the lens extends about 90mm at the 500mm position. 

In between the manual focus and tension rings is a bank of switches.  The top one is a two-position focus limiter, with the option of the full range or 3 meters to infinity (essentially eliminating the close focus possibilities).  You can use the latter position if you don’t need close focus options and want to eliminate the possibility of focus racking if you don’t initially acquire focus.  I do find this happens less often on the superior focus systems of modern cameras.  The second switch is a basic AF/MF switch (always welcome), followed by an ON/OFF for the IS (Image Stabilizer).  The fourth switch allows you to choose an IS mode.  There are three options, including 1 (standard), 2 (panning), and 3 (dynamic, which only activates at capture and allows you more freedom for tracing erratic action).  The IS is rated at 5 stops, though if you have a camera equipped with IBIS (like my EOS R5), the rating climbs to 6 stops. 

IS is hugely beneficial in a lens like this, and the system works well overall, though 500mm is a very long focal length to stabilize.  I still saw a little movement in the viewfinder even with both lens IS and body IS (IBIS), but I was able to get both fairly low shutter speeds for photos (with still subjects) along detecting a massive difference for video when IS was enabled.  This shot was taken handheld at 500mm and with a shutter speed of 1/40th of a second.

That’s about 4 stops of assistance, but it is possible to push it a bit further, though getting stable images at 1/8th of a second at 500mm (six stops of stability) seems unlikely to me unless you happen to have supernaturally steady hands.

It is possible to get fairly stable video even at 500mm, though I could easily see the rise and fall of my breathing (small movements are exaggerated at that focal length).

There are nine rounded aperture blades inside that will help keep a circular shape to the aperture as you stop down a bit.

The 100-500L receives Canon’s higher grade of build as a “L” series lens.  This includes a tough, durable body and thorough weather sealing throughout the lens.  I count 15+ seal points according to this diagram, and there is also a fluorine coating on the front and rear elements to further help the lens be resistant to the elements. 

This is a serious lens built to serious standards.

The lens is (somewhat) compatible with Canon’s RF 1.4x and 2x extenders (tele-converters).  I say somewhat because it is only compatible from about 300mm on where enough space is created in the rear of the lens for the extender to mount:

As the lens retracts beyond 300mm the rear elements move into that space and occupy it, leaving no room physically for the extender to be attached:

You cannot fully retract the lens with the extender in place (there isn’t room for it to be retracted), so that also means that you won’t be able to access the 100-300mm range with the extender attached.  So, with the 1.4x extender attached you have a 420-700mm F8-F10 lens, and if you attach the 2x extender you have a 600-1000mm F11-F14 lens.  I didn’t have either extender on hand, but Bryan Carnathan reports good results with the 1.4x attached and fairly good results with the 2x extender.  I tend to view 1.4x extenders as the limit with most lenses (moving to the 2x often involves too many compromises), but there are probably applications for the 2x extender.  Obviously you are going to need good light for either combination, but particularly for the 2x extender.  Storing the lens in its retracted position will obviously require the extender to be removed first.  This is one disadvantage relative to the EF 100-400L II lens, which is fully compatible with the MK III EF extenders.

All told, this is a feature rich, well built telephoto zoom lens that is a professional grade lens despite its slower aperture rating.  It builds on the foundation of the excellent Canon EF 100-400mm F4.5-5.6L IS II in several areas, though there are a few areas of minor disadvantage relative to that lens.  As has become the norm, however, we have a fairly significant price increase with the new RF lens.  It retails for $2900 USD, a price increase of $600 over the EF version, but that’s only because Canon has increased the price of the EF version from $2200 to $2400.  The price increase from retail launch to retail launch is thus actually $700, which is a significant premium.  There’s a pretty big psychological gap between a lens that retails for slightly over $2000 to a lens that retails for nearly $3000, and I suspect that this will result in a number of people who hang onto their EF lens and use it adapted (it works very well adapted) if they perceive that the cost of making the switch is too high.

Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS Autofocus

The Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS employs dual Nano-USM focus motors to help achieve fast, quiet autofocus.  This is incredibly important in a lens designed for telephoto use, as many of the subjects that people want to use such a lens for (birds, for example) are fast moving. 

If you are new to the genre, there are a few tips worthy of consideration.  The first and most important will be shutter speed.  If you are tracking birds, for example, you’ll want to keep that shutter speed up near 1/500th second or faster.  Going underneath that threshold will result in motion blur in some shots.  That will often mean moving up to higher ISO values to achieve that.  You’ll probably also want to set Eye AF to animal priority, though I do find Canon more forgiving than Sony in this regard.  Sony is fairly rigid, and I’ve had a few videos where I mistakenly left Eye AF in Animal mode and had a video with the wrong focus for the whole segment even though I was the obviously primary subject in the frame.

The RF 100-500L proved a very capable lens for tracking birds in flight and staying focused during erratic movement.  I had more trouble keeping birds and animals properly framed (moving with them) than I did keeping things in focus during sustained 20 FPS bursts on my Canon EOS R5.   

I also had no problem when using the lens for portraits (a secondary purpose of a lens like this, but still a fine application).  Eye AF worked best with the subject occupying more of the frame, but I was able to achieve good results even when my portrait subject was strongly backlit by the rising sun over the Atlantic Ocean.

When the subject is smaller in the frame like this, you might be likely to get face or body detection rather than eye detection, but what matters most is that the subject is properly in focus.

Focus speed was generally excellent, though I did see some delay when going from very close focus to a medium or distant subject.  More minor focus changes were essentially instantaneous.  I also had no problem acquiring subjects on the fly when they caught my eye and I needed to focus quickly.

I heard little focus noise during standard use, and I didn’t feel there is enough noise to be picked up by the on board mics in video applications.

Nano USM is my favorite of Canon’s focus technologies, and the dual application was the right choice here.  It allows the lens to be competitive in terms of focus speed and noise.  The disadvantage here is the smaller aperture of the lens, so expect some focus speed slowdown in poorer light.  The improved autofocus systems in the modern mirrorless cameras will help with this, though, so the lens will remain usable in more situations than we would have expected in the past.  It is important to keep your expectations realistic, however:  this lens isn’t going to focus like the RF 400mm F2.8L IS at dusk; there’s a reason why pros will pay $12,000 for a lens like that!

Canon RF 100-500L Image Quality

The EF 100-400L II set the bar very high with a truly outstanding optical performance that I’ve really not seen bested by subsequent 100-400(ish) lenses that I have tested.  That high bar creates some challenges for Canon, as they are expanding the zoom range and ratio (5x vs 4x zoom).  By that standard, however, I’m very impressed by the optical performance from the lens.  I found a comparison of the MTF charts from the internet, and I feel like it pretty fairly represents what I’ve seen in my own personal comparison tests.

If you don’t “read MTF”, these charts suggest the RF 100-500L performs at a similar level to the EF lens while adding that additional important 100mm of reach.  What I found is a lens that delivers an incredibly consistent performance at every tested focal length with no real drop-off at a certain focal length.  I also found that the lens had a nicely even performance across the frame with only a minor fade towards the corner and that there was little improvement to be had by stopping the lens down.  This is a lens that delivers most of its performance at its maximum apertures, which is helpful in a lens that doesn’t excel in having large maximum aperture values.  Here’s a shot at 500mm, F7.1:

So let’s break it down.  You can get an even deeper dive by watching the image quality section of the Definitive video review.  

First, a look at vignette and distortion.  Neither is a significant problem.  Here’s 100mm:

There is negligible amount of barrel distortion (+1 to correct) and about 2 stops of vignette in the corners (+50 to correct).  This is actually one of the best RF performances I’ve seen for vignette.  Things are better still at 500mm in the vignette department.

There’s a mild amount of pincushion distortion (+3), but the vignette is down to just a little over a stop (+33 to correct) and is very linear in nature.  The Canon correction profiles clear everything up nicely, though there’s a good chance you wouldn’t see any of these defects in most real world images even without correction.  All good to start!

I was likewise happy with what I saw for chromatic aberration control.  I didn’t spot issues with Lateral Chromatic aberrations (these typically show up along the edges of the frame regardless of aperture), and you can see from this deep crop from my test chart that the transitions from black to white near the edge of the frame are clean and without color fringing:

Likewise Longitudinal Chromatic Aberrations (depth of field fringing that shows up before and after the plane of focus) were also well controlled.  In this deep crop from an action shot at the beach you can see the strong backlighting of the gull (in focus) along with foam and water droplets suspended in the air.  All of these are very neutral with no signs of fringing.

All good!

So how about resolution and contrast?  Because of the length of the lens, I use a slightly different test chart from my typical one.  It is smaller to allow me to continue to frame it in my basement testing space.  Here’s a look at the whole chart that we will be looking at crops from.

All of these tests have been done with the Canon EOS R5 (45MP), a very solid tripod (Robus RC8860), and using a 2 second delay to eliminate any vibration.  Here’s a look at nearly 200% crops from the center, mid-frame, and bottom right corner (100mm, F4.5):

You can see a consistently excellent performance all across the frame.  How does this compare to the 100-400L II?  A few general observations based on looking at many more samples than I’ll show in the review:

  1. The EF lens delivers a slightly brighter image throughout the range even with equal settings
  2. The RF lens delivers slightly higher levels of contrast at some settings
  3. The EF lens tends to be more competitive in the center, while the RF is sometimes sharper in the corner

You can see a few of the things I mention by looking at these comparisons from the center, mid-frame, and bottom right corner:

Not a big difference between the two, obviously.

As a general rule I noticed very little difference between the wide open performance from the lens and when it was stopped down.  In some cases there is a very slight uptick in contrast, but you largely get maximum performance wide open.  Here’s a look at F4.5 vs F8:

Not much difference at all.  The biggest difference is that better contrast makes for a slightly brighter looking image. That one sample is pretty representative of what I saw throughout my tests.

Minimum aperture is very small with this lens.  At 100mm it is F32 but as small as F51 by 500mm.  I would avoid anything beyond F16 at all costs (particularly on a high resolution body like the R5), as diffraction causes a tremendous amount of image softness.  Look at maximum aperture (F4.5) vs minimum aperture (F32):

Ouch!  This isn’t actually the lens’ fault; you can blame this one on physics!

Moving on to 200mm we see a similar performance with strong resolution and contrast across the frame.  Maximum aperture is now F5:

A similar story awaits at 300mm, where maximum aperture is now F5.6:  

Checking back in with the 100-400L II finds the EF lens enjoying its biggest advantage.  It has a bright maximum aperture (F5 vs F5.6) and delivers a slightly better performance across the frame, as shown by this corner crop:

It’s not significant, but it does exist.

Moving on to 400mm we continue to see the incredibly consistent performance from the lens.  I want to highlight this, as in my experience it is rare for a zoom lens to deliver such a consistent performance across the zoom range.  Usually there is a dip somewhere, if not at the extremes (like the telephoto end) then at least somewhere in the middle of the range.  That is absolutely NOT the case with the RF 100-500L.  I’ll also highlight that the copy I tested was very well centered, delivering equivalent results on both sides of the frame.  I’ve taken my corner crop from the upper left corner to illustrate this for you.  This is 400mm, F6.3 (now the maximum aperture):

At 500mm I noticed a few interesting things.  First of all, we see that continued consistency in a strong performance all across the image frame.  Canon’s engineers were able to gain that crucial extra 100mm of reach without compromising image quality, which is a big deal!

Maximum aperture is now F7.1, which is disappointing, but the performance is not.  Ironically, though, this is actually the place where the RF wins the aperture battle.  To get to 500mm on the EF lens, I had to use a 1.4x extender (Canon Extender 1.4x III), which means that my maximum aperture was F8.  There wasn’t a significant difference in performance between the two lenses, though I felt the RF lens had the slightest advantage in resolution and contrast.

What really jumped out to me, though, was the framing.  You might have noticed that the EF lens combo registered 504mm, so, in theory, I should have had to be slightly further away from the target to achieve the same framing.  I wasn’t.  I was closer.  In fact, I was closer with the EF lens at its maximum length with the extender of 560mm than I was with the RF lens at 500mm.  Why?  

Focus breathing.  Not the video kind, but the kind that relates to photography where lenses sometimes only achieve their true rated focal length at further distances.  If we were to move outside and choose a target 20+ meters away, the 100-400L + 1.4x extender (560mm) would allow for closer/tighter framing than the RF’s 500mm, but at closer distances, the EF lens obviously focus breathes significantly more than the newer RF lens.  I’ve long noted that about the EF lens, but it is nice to see that Canon has improved on this flaw and that you can expect to get the full focal length at most all focus distances.

Case in point would be this portrait, where at 500mm, F7.1, you can see that I got amazing compression of the background (Atlantic Ocean) along with beautiful detail on my subject’s face.

You’ll note from the crop that the focus is excellent, and even at that distance the depth of field is quite small (the front edge of her hair is clearly out of focus).

I could also then zoom out to 100mm and get a completely different kind of portrait that has much more context in it but has similarly excellent focus and detail:

A lens like this can also make for a very interesting landscape lens, as it delivers great detail and no real optical flaws.

Zooming in compresses scenes and does very interesting things with the rising or setting sun.

This also works to draw distant objects closer.  The giant Ferris wheel you can see in the distance looks like it is fairly close to the pier in the foreground, but they are actually more than 10 kilometers apart (and this is only at 324mm):

At 500mm the two points would seem closer still.  This illustrates how you can create visually interesting landscape shots by bringing different aspects closer together in a shot.  As an aside, it is also used sometimes by advertisers to make a property seem closer to the ocean or some other attraction than it actually is.

Flare resistance was fairly good, with direct shots into the sun showing little ill effect.  I did manage to get some loss of contrast in a few shots where the sun was perhaps in the corner or a certain position where some flare occurred.

The effect in my images was more artistic than destructive, however, as there weren’t big noticeable blobs of false color that marred the image.

One area where I think the RF 100-500L is slightly behind the EF lens is when it comes to bokeh.  I didn’t feel like the quality of the out of focus areas were quite as smooth and suffered from a bit more outlining.  In this shot, for example, the subjects are nice and crisp, but the out of focus trees beyond have more outlining than what I would like.

In this shot of seabirds you can see that the ocean beyond isn’t particularly “creamy”.

I’ve owned the 100-400L II since 2016 (six years), so I have a pretty strong sense of its rendering.  I felt like it was less prone to outlining, so I set up a test with various complications in the background.  While the difference between the two lenses isn’t radically different on a global level, you can see on the pixel level that there is less outlining on the 100-400L II and the bokeh is a little smoother/creamier.

Of course, you may be looking at the same thing and saying, “What are you talking about?”  Bokeh is subjective, and suffice it to say that there isn’t a radical difference between the two lenses.  The RF 100-500L is capable of producing lovely images with beautiful bokeh.

There really isn’t any optical weakness for me to criticize.  This is a very consistent (and consistently strong) lens.  If you would like to see more images, check out my image gallery here.

Conclusion

If Canon had priced the RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS USM somewhere near $2500, I think that most people would consider it a great value.  It certainly builds on the very strong foundation of the EF 100-400L II while offering some real improvements.  Most notable is the additional 100mm of zoom range.  The fact that the RF 100-500L reaches 500mm makes it a bit of a unicorn, somewhere between the 100-400mm and 150-600mm lens range.  That extra 100mm of reach means that more photographers will feel like they can get sufficient reach without resorting to using a teleconverter and allows them to benefit from the smaller, more portable body style of the 100-400mm type lens.

All other aspects of performance are generally excellent.  The build and handling is good, the autofocus is excellent, and, as noted, there aren’t really any flaws in the optical performance.  My chief criticisms center on the surprisingly small maximum aperture on the telephoto end and the only partial compatibility with extenders (from 300-500mm only).  I suspect both of these flaws are probably the sacrifices that were made at the altar of keeping the lens compact.  But the price point of about $2900 is going to be the primary gatekeeper.  It is high enough to make for a different psychological threshold for those looking to purchase, and is likely to keep a lot of owners of the EF 100-400L II holding onto their lens because of concerns over the price of upgrading.  While the retail difference in price is currently $500 USD, the actual cost of upgrading after selling the 100-400L II are more likely to approach $1000+.

Things are a little rosier if you are a new buyer, however, as the extra 100mm you gain in reach would take purchasing a 1.4x extender to use with the EF lens, and that extra $500 closes the retail gap.  Canon’s pricing still feels steep here, though.  The Sony FE 200-600mm F5-6.3 G OSS lens provides similar levels of performance while costing nearly $1000 less.  If you are a Canon RF user, however, it is probably wisest to stop thinking about the price as soon as possible and instead enjoy the excellent performance of the Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS.  It is an excellent lens that continues Canon’s legacy of being a top manufacturer of telephoto lenses.

 

Pros:

  • Increase of 100mm
  • 5x zoom range vs 4x zoom range (EF 100-400)
  • Lighter weight (1365g vs 1640)
  • Addition of control ring
  • Matching lens hood
  • Slightly better handling
  • Improved autofocus (dual Nano-USM vs USM)
  • Great tracking capabilities
  • Slightly higher magnification (0.33x vs 0.31x)
  • Fully removable tripod collar
  • High performing lens optically throughout the zoom range
  • Very consistent performance at different focal lengths and across the frame
  • Excellent control of aberrations
  • Also works as a nice portrait lens
  • Reduced focus breathing

Cons:

  • Increased price ($2900 USD vs $2400/2200)
  • Slower maximum aperture
  • Not fully compatible with extenders
  • Image quality not significantly improved over the 100-400L II

 

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Keywords: Canon RF 100-500mm, Canon RF 100-500L, 70-200, 70-200mm, RF, 100-500L, L, IS, Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L Is USM, USM, Canon EOS R5, EOS, R5, EOS R5, EOS R6, mirrorless, full frame, EOS R5 Review, Canon R5 Review, Canon 100-500 Review, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Tracking, Focus, Burst Rate, Tracking, Sports, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Myrtle Beach, Sample Images, Real World, Macro, 45Mp, Canon, Letthelightin

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Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

March 22nd, 2022

When the Canon EF 100-400mm F4.5-5.6L IS II released in the beginning of 2015 it effectively ended the question of what the best telephoto zoom in or around this focal length was.  The 100-400L II was a clearly superior lens, with a fabulous build, some new innovative design elements, great autofocus, and amazing image quality.  It released at a time when my own photography budget was much smaller, but I still found a way to buy one after reviewing it because it was so good.  It has remained in my personal kit since that point even though I sold my last DSLR a few years back.   I only own mirrorless camera bodies at this point but have kept the lens because it is excellent and adapts seamlessly to Canon’s mirrorless bodies like my Canon EOS R5.  I’ve been wanting to get my hands on Canon’s new RF equivalent – the Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS – for a long time, but here in Canada supply chain shortages have made loaners (and retail copies!) few and far between.  The RF 100-500mm ups the ante in terms of zoom range (an additional 100mm) but at a physical cost ($2900 USD – $500 more than the EF lens) along with a maximum aperture cost (more on that in a moment).

Canon has managed to squeeze out a longer ratio (5x zoom) while reducing the weight of the lens (1365 vs 1650g), making this a truly manageable lens in terms of weight for a focal range like this.  It’s unusual to get this degree of reach from such a (relatively) compact package, but Canon has accomplished this in part by allowing the lens to drift to a smaller maximum aperture than we saw on any Canon lens prior to the mirrorless era.  All Canon lenses in the EF mount were constrained to a maximum aperture of F5.6 for the simple reason that this was the smallest maximum aperture that many camera could focus effectively at.  There were a few cameras towards the end of the era that could focus at smaller maximum apertures, but Canon had to maintain compatibility with their whole camera lineup.  The switch to mirrorless has unshackled Canon, though, as mirrorless cameras can autofocus with much smaller maximum apertures and they no longer had the need to ensure compatibility with legacy cameras.  We quickly saw lenses with a maximum aperture of F6.3, and then F7.1, and even the quirky 600mm and 800m F11 primes.  I will say that it seems very strange to type L after F7.1 (F7.1L); it feels a little sacrilegious.  The image quality from the lens assures me that this is a genuine L series performer, however.

Let’s get the bad new out of the way:  the new RF isn’t as “light efficient” as the older EF lens.  It doesn’t hold the brighter apertures as long with one minor exception.  The new RF lens does hold F4.5 a little longer (151mm vs 135mm) but doesn’t hold F5 or F5.6 nearly as long (the new lens is at F6.3 by 363mm, whereas the older lens was obviously at F5.6 until the end of the zoom range.  The RF 100-500L doesn’t hit F7.1 until the last little bit (472-500mm).  While the slower aperture is a bit disappointing, there is an alternate way to frame this.  The EF lens required a 1.4x teleconverter to hit 560mm, whereas the RF 100-500L will hit 500mm with the bare lens.  Adding the 1.4x to the F5.6 lens creates a maximum aperture of F8, so in a sense you gain 1/3 stop of light at 500mm.  Nonetheless, this is is going to be a lens that works best with adequate light, though fortunately cameras and focus systems have gotten much better at dealing with lower light situations.  There are limits, obviously, but this is a lens that performed well in the various situations I put it in.

This is an expensive lens, obviously, but it is also a very high performing lens that utilizes a dual Nano USM focus system to give even better autofocus results along with outstanding optical performance.  It isn’t a lens that will fit everyone’s budget, but it may just be the lens that should be added to your wish list.  To help you determine if this is a lens for you, check out my detailed video review or read the text review

 

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Thanks to Camera Canada for getting me a loaner of the RF 100-500L.  If you’re in Canada, check them out for a reliable online retailer. *The tests and the photos shown in this review have been taken on my 45 MP Canon EOS R5.

Photos of the Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L Build and Handling

Photos taken with the Canon RF 100-500mm

 

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Keywords: Canon RF 100-500mm, Canon RF 100-500L, 70-200, 70-200mm, RF, 100-500L, L, IS, Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L Is USM, USM, Canon EOS R5, EOS, R5, EOS R5, EOS R6, mirrorless, full frame, EOS R5 Review, Canon R5 Review, Canon 100-500 Review, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Tracking, Focus, Burst Rate, Tracking, Sports, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Myrtle Beach, Sample Images, Real World, Macro, 45Mp, Canon, Letthelightin

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Sony a6400 Review

Dustin Abbott

April 12th, 2019

Sony surprised some of us with the announcement of the Sony a6400 APS-C mirrorless camera.  Many of us expected Sony to continue moving upscale with an a6500 replacement, but instead it appears that Sony is going flesh out their APS-C mirrorless offerings with more of an upgrade to the a6300 (in the a6400) while then later updating the a6500 with a more premium option.  This move will certainly create a little market confusion in the present, however, as while the a6400 is a clear upgrade to the a6300, potential buyers must also consider the a6500 as the price is only $200 different in the US Market (at the time of this review).  The a6400 does have some upgrades when compared to the a6500 (a more robust AF system, for example), but also loses some key features like SteadyShot (In-Body-Image-Stabilization) and the deeper buffer depth of the a6500.

You can get the a6400 body-only or in a few kit lens combinations.  The least expensive is found in adding the tiny E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS lens, which, while no world beater optically, can produce pretty pictures, has OSS (helps to make up for the lack of IBIS), and only raises the sticker price by $100 (the lens costs nearly $300 when purchased separately).  Here’s one taken with that combination, and you can see a gallery of others in the gallery page here:

Sony’s most recent camera seems to be specifically targeted at the Vlogging and Selfie crowd with a revised physical design of the screen that allows it to tilt up into a forward facing position.  The Sony a6400 also inherits some trickle-down improvements from the third generation a7 series with improved focus algorithms, a more robust coverage of Contrast AF points (now 425 across the frame), and improved focus speed (which they claim to be the fastest in the world).  It is the first of Sony’s cameras to receive their new “Real-Time Eye AF and Tracking”, which no longer relies on a button press to activate Eye-AF.  This new technology will (fortunately) come to several other Sony models (the A9 already and the third-gen A7 bodies shortly).  Sony has made some other incremental improvements, including squeezing a little more battery life out of the not-overly-loved NP-FW50 battery pack, further eliminating the overheating issues particularly found on the a6300, and even improving the response time that prevented you from accessing menu settings after taking a photo.  This review will hopefully help you make a decision as to whether the a6400 is the camera for you.

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Prefer to watch your reviews?  See my full video review of the a6400 here!

Here are some of the feature highlights of the a6400:

  • 24.2MP APS-C Exmor CMOS Sensor
  • BIONZ X Image Processor
  • Real-Time Eye AF & Real-Time Tracking
  • XGA Tru-Finder 2.36m-Dot OLED EVF
  • 3.0″ 921.6k-Dot 180° Tilting Touchscreen
  • Internal UHD 4K Video, S-Log3, and HLG
  • Built-In Wi-Fi with NFC
  • 425 Phase- & Contrast-Detect AF Points
  • Up to 11 fps Shooting and ISO 102400

What’s new on this list is the Real-Time AF features, HLG (Hybrid Log profile – good for HDR), and the 425 Contrast-Detect AF points (the a6500 has 169 CD-AF points).  What’s also improved is that Sony has reconfigured the hinges on the tilting LCD screen so that it can now be rotated 180° upwards into “selfie-mode” where the screen can be viewed from the front of the camera (though with a few caveats that we’ll detail in a moment).  The native and “expanded” ISO range has also received some minor improvements, moving from ISO 25,600 on the a6500 to ISO 32,000 on the a6400 (one-third stop).  We’ll also explore if this indicates a real improvement.  Let’s jump in a take a closer look at all of these new features and more.

Sony a6400 Overview

The best way to get the hands-on overview of the camera and its features is to watch this video.  It highlights what has changed compared to the a6400, and what hasn’t…

The basic physical shape is so similar to the a6300/a6500 blueprint that you have to look closely to note the differences.

The biggest physical change is a positive one, however, as the grip shape has been retooled to be a bit less pointed and a little thicker.  The a6400 is 4.7 x 2.6 x 2.4″ (120 x 66.9 x 59.7mm), with the only change being to the thickness of the camera (which is .3″ thicker than the a6500).  The camera is actually a bit lighter, however, at 14.22 oz (403g) compared to 453g for the a6500.  I suspect the difference in weight is mostly due to the lack of the IBIS in the a6400.  The change to the grip is a good one, as I feel more like I’m holding rather than pinching the camera grip now, though the width of the camera (and thus the grips) is still way too small for those of us with bigger hands.

The other major physical change only becomes apparent when you tilt the screen out.  Where the upward rotation of the of the screen is limited to 90° on the a6500, the a6400 will rotate up a full 180° until it is forward-facing, enabling a “selfie-mode” or means to monitor video from the front.

This is undoubtedly useful, as it can help with framing, with actually taking selfies, and also gives Sony a specific marketing strategy.  There are limitations, however, as the eyecup blocks a small part of the screen on the right side already, and if anything is mounted on the hotshoe (microphone, for example), a good portion of the screen will be blocked as the hotshoe lines up almost perfectly in the middle of the screen.  Vloggers might still prefer the unobstructed view of, say, a Canon articulating screen that can face out on the side where there are no obstructions.  Sony also still hasn’t addressed the issue of tilt when shooting in vertical/portrait mode.  Fuji allows some vertical tilt in their screens, and it would be nice to see Sony implement something similar.  But while not perfect, this redesign undoubtedly adds some additional functionality to the A6 series.

There is also a minor change to the mode dial.  The a6500 was positioned to a slightly more professional demographic, so it contains 2 Custom Modes on the mode dial.  I’m sorry to those gone here, though Sony did (somewhat confusingly) add one MR (Memory Recall) mode which serves a similar function.  They also added S&Q (Slow and Quick) to the mode dial whereas you had to access it through the menus on the a6500.

The other physical change is that rather than the C1 and C2 buttons along the top of the a6500 there is now only one C1 button, and it has been moved up near shutter button.  The wider grip allows room for this change, though I’m not sure that I prefer one position over the other.  The one less programmable custom button is obviously a downgrade from the a6500 and shows again that the a6400, while superior in a few areas, is actually more a natural upgrade from the a6300 than the a6500.

Somewhat ironic is the fact that I have SteadyShot mapped to C2 on my a6500.  So, while the C2 button is missing on the a6400, so is the function that I had attached to it.  The inclusion of Sony’s excellent IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) in the a6500 was the “killer app” that set it apart and was the deciding factor for me to purchase one two years ago.  Not including SteadyShot in body is undoubtedly both a cost-saving move and the primary means of distinguishing Sony’s two APS-C mirrorless lines, but it is definitely a loss.  This has been one of Sony’s key advantages in this market, and we will see how much dropping IBIS from the a6400 impacts it.

Beyond these changes, the handling of the a6400 is near identical to earlier bodies, for good and evil.  There are some things I seriously wish were changed.  At the top of the list in the placement of the memory card slot in the battery door on the bottom of the camera.  It always makes removing the memory card a serious pain, as there is little clearance for one’s fingers in there.  This is exacerbated if you add a grip extender or L-bracket of some kind, as it increases the depth.  With my Small-Rig L-Bracket in place on my a6500 I feel like I need to remove the battery to allow sufficient access to really grip the card.  A memory card position on the side the of camera like the a7 series or Fuji XT series would be vastly preferred.  Some might also criticize the single card slot, but frankly there are few sub-$1000 cameras with dual card slots, so I find it hard to get too bent out of shape over this.

I’m also not a fan of the video record button placement (another carryover).  It is in an awkward position that I never find easy to access even after two years of familiarity (I’ve used the a6500 extensively for my YouTube channel).

Another annoyance is that Sony has still noted really improved the versatility of their touchscreen, which continues to lag behind the competition in somewhat puzzling ways.  On the plus side, using the touchscreen to select a focus point and or drag a flexi-point around while looking through the viewfinder works better than ever.  But touch to shoot or track is somewhat mysterious and menu navigation by touch simply doesn’t exist.  I You can find a setting for “Function of Touch Operation” in the Custom Operation 2 tab (9 of 9 – in other words, buried deep), and this will allow you to change touch function to focus, shutter, or track.  You will want to map this function to a custom button or your “My Menu”, as as it stands it simply isn’t easy to access.  Canon and Fuji allow you to make this change right on the touchscreen during normal operation.  Sony could have at least mapped it to the FN menu.  I’ve used Canon, Nikon, and Fuji bodies that have these things figured out to some degree (Canon is still tops), but for some mysterious reason, Sony can’t nail this down. 

On a positive note, Sony has made a few improvements to the menu structure.  One positive change is that they have added some of the improved menu sorting from the a7 series, including the “My Menu” tab that allows you to populate it with frequently used settings that you would like quick access to.  The other change is the addition of a built-in intervalometer (not a separate app) so that you can shoot time lapses or intervals in camera.  There doesn’t seem to be functionality to build time lapse movies in camera (that requires using software), but this is a welcome change, as, frankly, the in-camera app store was an idea whose time had NOT come, and Sony phased it out in the third-gen a7 cameras.  The LCD is a similar resolution as before, but it does appear to have a little better contrast.

Beyond this the ergonomics are pretty much what you would expect.  Unlike the a7 series, there is no front wheel/dial to use for shutter speed or aperture, so you are left with using the single wheel next to the mode dial or using the rotating wheel/D-Pad for these (and other) functions.  You have to be a little careful with the rear wheel, as too much pressure can activate the Directional Pad function instead.  This makes using the a6 bodies with gloves a little complicated at times.  The feel of the buttons and dials is indistinguishable from the a6500 that I’m so familiar with.

I would still love to see some kind of small joystick on the back of the camera to help with navigation of menus and even selecting focus points (like the Fuji X-T3), but with your eye pressed to the viewfinder the touchscreen is arguably the best way to select a focus point.  I’d be happy to take a more functional touchscreen that included menu navigation as well!

I alluded to it earlier, but there are a few functional improvements made to the handling of the camera.  The Sony a6300 had serious overheating issues when shooting 4K.  It was not uncommon for the camera to shut itself down in 10 minutes or less.  Some improvements were made to the a6500 to solve this problem, including a setting that would allow the camera to raise the heat threshold before shutting down.  I’ve reviewed the a6400 in March, which is not exactly a time when many things are overheating in my part of the world, but others have reported that this issue has been further improved.  Sony has also eliminated the 29:59 minute recording limit as well, which helps the video functionality.

Other tweaks include a faster response time after shooting and then accessing menu functions.  Earlier Sony bodies could be painful in how it took before you could access, say, playback or a settings change after taking a photo (or worse, a burst of photos!), but the a6400 is noticeably improved in this regard.  Burst images are also handled as a group, so you have more options for either playback or deleting them because of improvements to sorting.

Sony a6400 Video Functionality

Sony’s a6 series have become video juggernauts, offering surprisingly robust video options and incredibly good footage (particularly in 4K).  The a6400’s video capabilities are a mild evolution, but taken as a whole they are impressive.  We’ve noted the improvements to controlling overheating, recording time limits, and the forward facing LCD screen, but there are a few other improvements as well.  What’s not improved is the video recording options, which include:

3840 x 2160p at 24/25/30 fps (100, 60 Mb/s XAVC S)
1920 x 1080p at 100/120 fps (100, 60 Mb/s XAVC S)
1920 x 1080p at 24/25/30/50/60 fps (50 Mb/s XAVC S)
1920 x 1080p at 50/60 fps (25 Mb/s XAVC S)
1920 x 1080p at 25/30 fps (16 Mb/s XAVC S)
1920 x 1080i at 50/60 fps (24, 17 Mb/s AVCHD)

We didn’t get 60 FPS in 4K recording, unfortunately (Panasonic and Fuji have an edge there), but as previously noted, Sony did add HLG (Hybrid Log Profile), which allows the camera to produce footage better suited to High Dynamic Range (HDR) editing and playback.  As before, the two crop options are dependent on whether 24 or 30 FPS is selected.  24 FPS utilizes the Super 35 mode, which employs the full readout without pixel binning to produce a 6K oversampled picture that is incredibly detailed.  30FPS requires a 1.6x crop factor, so you will notice a difference in framing and a slight reduction in quality due to pixel binning (though the footage is still excellent).  120FPS is available in 1080 to allow for nice slow-motion work, though getting this at a 4K resolution will have to wait until future cameras.

Further improvements to video functionality are realized due to the improvements to the autofocus system.  Speaking of which…

Sony a6400 Autofocus

The a6400’s chief claim to fame is that it is the first Sony camera (period) to debut Sony’s new “Real-Time Eye AF & Real-Time Tracking”.  While Eye AF previously had to be mapped to another button, now it is always available in AF-C (continuous) mode when you half-depress the shutter button.  This allows Eye AF and tracking to happen in a more fluid, intuitive fashion.  This is particularly useful on the a6400 which has few physical controls to customize this functionality to.  Another improvement is the addition of Pet Eye AF (I’ve long noted with all Sony bodies previously that Eye AF would rarely work on animals).  I shot a fair number of portraits with the new Sigma 56mm F1.4 DC DN lens mounted on the a6400, and it was great to see how easily intuitive Eye AF was (and how well it worked).

This functionality also further helps video tracking as the system’s improvements are on all the time and work in real-time.  This may be the technological leap that helps Sony match Canon’s DPAF face tracking which has been industry leading for a while.  

Further bolstering this progress is a more robust AF system.  The a6500 sports 425 Phase Detect AF points like the a6400 (covering almost all the sensor – see photo 1 below).  But the a6300 and a6500 were limited to 169 Contrast AF points, which left the outer parts of the frame without as good of AF coverage (see image 2).  The a6400 has 425 Contrast AF points, making those of the Phase Detect system, meaning that the outer areas of the sensor have as good of AF coverage as the center (see Image 3 below).  This is most useful for tracking or composing on the outer portion of the frame.

This makes capturing action easier than ever as the a6400 is capable of a blistering 11 FPS with mechanical shutter:

Unfortunately the buffer didn’t receive a similar upgrade.  It’s actually downgraded from the a6500’s figures.

A6400:

Up to 11 fps at 24.2 MP for up to 46 Exposures (Raw Format)
Up to 11 fps at 24.2 MP for up to 116 Exposures (JPEG Format)

a6500:

Up to 11 fps at 24.2 MP for up to 233 Exposures (JPEG Format)
Up to 11 fps at 24.2 MP for up to 107 Exposures (Raw Format)

This is clearly another area that Sony will use to distinguish these two lines (the replacement for a6500 will probably be touted as a more sports-oriented model with deeper buffer and possibly even faster frame rates along with undoubtedly having Sony’s IBIS).  Two points, however:  one area where the a6400 is improved is that it now has a still-robust 8 FPS in silent shutter mode while the a6300/6500 capped out at 3 FPS in silent shutter mode.  The second observation is that while the buffer is reduced from that of the a6500, it is still very competitive, besting that of, say, the Fuji X-T3, a camera costing nearly twice as much.

Put simply, the a6400 sports one of the most competitive AF systems in the class.  Sony claims the focus acquisition speed of 0.02 seconds, a focus speed they claim to be the world’s fastest.  In real world use the focus was quite excellent with the lenses that I used.

Shallow depth of field is no problem when you’ve got a comprehensive AF system like this.

Sony a6400 Sensor Performance (Image Quality)

When the a7RIII replaced the a7RII, Sony focused more on the autofocus and handling of the camera rather than the sensor, which was already excellent.  The same is largely true here.  The a6400 sports the now-common 24.2MP APS-C Exmor CMOS Sensor and BIONZ X Image Processor we’ve seen for a while, though they’ve done some tweaking to improve the color science and noise handling.  It is based on this that they’ve expanded the ISO range from 100-25,600 in the a6500 to 100-33,000 here, with the expanded limit also increasing (to 102,400).  I did some tests to determine how much change had been made.  The best way to see what’s changed and what is the same is by watching this video where I directly compare the a6400 and a6500 in ISO performance and dynamic range:

First of all, I found that more is similar than different on this front.  This is one of the best APS-C sensors out there, capable of producing great detail, with an excellent dynamic range and very good noise handling, so few improvements were desperately needed.

The sensors/cameras didn’t behave identically (even with the same lens attached), so I did note minor differences in metering, color balance, and color science.  For the most part, however, it would be hard to spot these things without having the cameras side by side in controlled conditions.  I hadn’t really noticed any of them before my formal side by side tests, and I had taken hundreds of images in real-world situations before.  My point:  don’t expect a “night and day” improvement if you are coming from the a6300 or a6500.

That’s not to say that I saw no positive signs.  In the video above, you will see that I noted that the a6400 seemed to retain slightly more contrast and detail at higher ISO values, though, as this crop shows, it might be hard to detect this if you didn’t have identical images side by side.

What was more obvious, however, was the shadow recovery coupled with the ISO performance.  The files from the a6400 have a little more latitude to be “pushed” in post process.  While highlight recovery at higher ISO values was about equal, shadow recovery definitely favored the a6400, which retained more contrast and better color fidelity in my 3 stop shadow recovery.  Not night and day better, but observably better.

In less extreme circumstances, however, I didn’t see a significant difference between the two.  In fact, I felt the a6500 has slightly less of a green cast in a few instances.

As for the the increase of the standard ISO range:  meh.  I had to use the expanded range on the a6500 to get to 32,000, but frankly, I don’t see much of a difference and I doubt you will either.

All in all, however, this isn’t a negative conclusion.  I didn’t expect any significant upgrades to this sensor, as it one of the best (if not the best) APS-C sensor on the market by any metric.  It delivers great high ISO performance, is the top-rated APS-C sensor for dynamic range (at the point of this review), and delivers highly detailed, beautifully colored results.

I’ve took many images over my review period with the a6400, and space does not permit me to share more here, but I would recommend that you visit the image gallery page here.  It is loaded with great photos!

Conclusion

The Sony a6400 marks what I believe to be a splitting of their a6 series lineup into two separate product lines:  one with IBIS and a sports-orientated deep buffer and one designed and priced more for mass-market appeal.  Sony’s excellent 5-axis IBIS is certainly missed here, but it is worth noting that the base price has been dropped by $100 relative to the release price of the a6300 at launch 3 years ago (2016), and the a6300 lacked IBIS as well.  The a6400 is a great evolution of the a6300, and is a more complete camera in every facet.  It has significantly better autofocus, an improved physical design (complete with “selfie-screen”), and has smoothed out a lot of the rough edges (overheating, anyone?)  For the moment the upgrade path is muddied by the existence of the a6500, which has some superior features (IBIS, buffer) combined with a few inferior features (focus system, silent burst rate).  I suspect the replacement for the a6500 will have those new features along with other improvements, and I personally would love to see it move into a more robust, sports-oriented body with better battery life and thicker grip to allow better pairing with telephoto lenses.  But the bottom line is this:  the a6400 gives you a lot of bang for your buck.   

The new Eye AF technology works great, the video functionality of the camera is impressive, and the sensor continues to be one of the best APS-C sensors on the market.  Pair it with a nice compact telephoto like the new Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C and you’ve got an amazing portrait combination.  It’s video footage is impressively good, as are the photos.  The a6400 hasn’t solved every one of my irritations with the a6 series, but this is a very mature camera on a lot of levels.  There’s a lot to love, and relatively little to criticize.  In fact, if this camera had Steady Shot, it might just be everyone’s favorite new APS-C camera.  It doesn’t, so I doubt I’ll trade my a6500 for it, but it does make me anticipate the potential replacement for the a6500.  Maybe you don’t need IBIS, though, and, if you don’t, the a6400 is an easy recommendation as a very versatile camera for a reasonable price.

Pros:

  • Excellent autofocus system that is snappy and accurate
  • Real-time Eye AF and Tracking works as advertised
  • Useful handling improvements, including less overheating issues and faster response
  • Silent burst sped increases to 8 FPS
  • Screen now rotates up to enable front monitoring
  • Excellent image quality
  • Excellent video performance
  • Reasonably priced considering specifications

Cons:

  • No In Body Image Stabilization (IBIS)
  • Reduced buffer specifications from a6500
  • Single memory card slot located in a frustrating spot to access.

Gear Used:

Purchase the Sony a6400 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay

Purchase the Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

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Keywords:  Sony a6400, Sony Alpha, a6400 Review, Sony, a6400, Review, Dustin Abbott, a6500, a6400 vs a6500, Hands On, Video Test, Sharpness, Autofocus, CA, Video AF, Autofocus, Eye AF, Lens, Comparison, Test, Dustinabbott.net, Sample Images, Sample Video, Normal, Portrait, Travel, Canada, Myrtle Beach, Niagara Falls

 

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Sigma 56mm F1.4 DC DN Review

Dustin Abbott

April 9th, 2019

Sigma has once again managed to do for mirrorless what they seemingly cannot do with DSLR lenses – make an optically excellent, COMPACT lens.   The Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C is the 6th (by my count) of Sigma’s DN line for APS-C (and Micro 4/3rds) mirrorless cameras.  The first series were the ART primes (tiny 19mm, 30mm, and 60mm lenses with maximum apertures of F2.8) followed by the slightly larger, brighter Contemporary lenses (16mm, 30mm, and now 56mm primes with a maximum aperture of F1.4).  I’ve reviewed all of these lenses (you can find my Sigma review section by clicking here).  The 56mm is the perfect portrait lens for the series.  It’s a great focal length (84mm equivalent on full frame) with a wonderfully bright aperture of F1.4.  I was able to test it on the new Sony a6400 (improved autofocus system) along with a Sony a6500 (which gives the benefit of image stabilization!)  My review period also included trips to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, and Niagara Falls, Canada, and the 56mm DC served as a great travel companion as well as being a very nice portrait option.  Read on to find out why.

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Prefer to watch your reviews?  Click the video below to see my full video review, full of photos, timelapses, and video clips.

Sigma 56mm DC Build and Handling

The Sigma 56mm DC is a nicely built lens that essentially looks like a miniature ART series prime lens…and that’s a good thing.  The best way to get an interactive look at the features and design is by watching this video segment:

I’ve literally nothing to complain about in this section.  This little lens feels like a premium lens in the way that it looks and feels.  It is nicely compact at only 2.62″ (66.5mm) in diameter, resulting in a 55mm front filter thread (a little unfortunate as this is not a filter size shared with a lot of other lenses).  I would recommend getting a good circular polarizer (this Irix Edge CP-L is a nice balance of price and performance), as a CP-L filter is the most versatile of filters (see my review of the Irix EDGE filters here).  The lens is only 2.34″ (59.5mm) in length, resulting in an overall weight of just 9.9 oz (280g).  It’s a great balance on compact Sony or M43 mirrorless bodies, and is an easy lens to throw in the bag and bring along.  It is light enough that you won’t regret having it along even if you don’t end up using that focal length.

One significant improvement that began with the 16mm F1.4 DC DN was the addition of weather sealing to the series.  The 56mm DC has a gasket at the lens mount, which isn’t quite as good as having further seals inside the lens itself, but at least it’s a start! That adds to the versatility of the lens, giving you some confidence that you don’t have to stop shooting at the first hint of poor weather.

The lens barrel has no switches and is primarily dominated by a large, nicely made manual focus ring.  Like other lenses designed for mirrorless cameras, this is a focus-by-wire system in which input from the focus ring is routed through the focus motor.  It is actually the focus motor that moves the elements, making manual focus more of an emulation than a direct movement of the elements.  Some lenses pull this off better than others, but the 56mm DC isn’t bad.  I will note that the lens will automatically alert the body to magnify the image when you are manually focusing, which is a big help in visually confirming focus.  The good news is that I only did this to test the functionality due to the fact that the lens actually focuses really, really well (more on that in a moment).

The 56mm DC can focus down to 1.64′ (50cm), where it provides a 0.135x magnification figure.  This photo represents minimum focus:

While the magnification figure isn’t very high in an absolute sense, no 85mm lens that I’m aware of is (which is essentially what this is).  This figure is actually on the high end for an 85mm lens, with the Tamron 85mm F1.8 VC sporting a 0.14x figure that is “class-leading”.  On a positive note, you can see from the photo above that detail remains very high even at minimum focus distance (not true of all lenses!)

The lens hood is included, and Sigma’s lens hoods are a cut above the basic hoods included with many lenses.  They include some soft-touch materials, texture variations, and lens information.

The aperture iris is electromagnetic and controlled from within the camera (no aperture ring).  It has nine rounded aperture blades that do a fairly good job of retaining a circular shape even with the lens stopped down.

All in all this is a beautifully made little lens with no handling issues that I observed in my travels.

Sigma 56mm DC Autofocus

Here’s what Sigma says about the focus system in the 56mm DC: “The combination of optical design for video AF and use of the stepping motor enables smooth and quiet autofocus. This lens is also compatible with the Sony E-mount Fast Hybrid AF, achieving precise AF tracking. By using the face recognition or eye AF functions of cameras, focus will continuously be on the face or the eye even if the subject moves during the shoot.”  Stepping motors of some kind are the most common mirrorless focus systems due to the way that focus is achieved (quiet and smooth).  Early stepping motors weren’t particularly fast, but that has definitely changed.  The focus speed of the 56mm DC is actually very fast, particularly considering the amount of glass the focus motor has to move in an F1.4 lens.

It is also very quiet.  There is little audible sound whether focusing in AF-S or AF-C modes.  When I did a test video doing focus pulls the on-board microphone did not pick up any audible sounds at all even in a quiet environment.  I have zero concerns about focus noise for video shooters with the 56mm DC.

The focus system is also extremely accurate.  I don’t recall one missed shot due to incorrect focus during my review period either on the a6400 or a6500.  Look at how “nailed” the focus is on this slender bolt underneath a pier (F1.6):

Pretty impressive!  

Eye AF also works fantastically well.  While I enjoy the execution of the Real Time Eye AF on the a6400, it also worked well when using the a6500, too.  I used the lens for a few portrait sessions, and while I didn’t have anything other than the on-board flash along with me on this particular trip to help balance the lighting ratios of this backlit shot, I am still really pleased with the outcome:

The highly accurate nature of the autofocus (and silent focus acquisition) made this a nice, discrete option for shooting an event, too.  The bonus is that the lens is exceptionally sharp at F1.4, allowing you to shoot at that aperture, single people out of the crowd, and keep the ISO values down.

I’ve no complaints about the autofocus of this lens.  It is fast, accurate, and quiet.

Sigma 56mm F1.4 DC DN Image Quality

There’s a lot to praise here, and also a few things to criticize.  Find out all the details in my interactive image quality breakdown video segment here:

The 56mm DC really only has one true objective optical shortcoming:  it suffers from a surprisingly strong amount of pincushion distortion that somehow escapes in-camera or profile corrections:

I’ve rarely seen such obvious pincushion distortion, particularly at this kind of focal length, so I’m actually a little surprised by that. Every lens involves some kind of optical compromise, so this is clearly what “had to give” in order to achieve the rest of the lens’ goodness…which is a lot.

This may be the sharpest APS-C lens that I’ve ever tested…and most definitely the sharpest F1.4 APS-C lens I’ve ever tested.  Lens sharpness is near perfect at F1.4, with pin-sharp center of the frame and nearly-as-sharp corners.

This is further helped by the fact that the levels of chromatic aberrations (either longitudinal or lateral) is close to nil, meaning that wide open contrast and sharpness is excellent even in challenging conditions:

This shot would have been extremely difficult for a lens suffering from CA.  But as you can see, the textures are perfectly crisp and detailed. 

Stopping down to F2 manages to up contrast to even higher levels, and thus the observable resolution is better still.

In this real-world example, you can see that textures almost pop off the screen even under harsh lighting conditions.  That is very impressive.

There is a further mild improvement to be had by F2.8, but essentially after F2 you can use aperture more to control depth of field than out of some need for additional sharpness.  At landscape apertures the lens produces incredibly sharp and detailed images with great color and contrast.  

Even landscape photographers should consider this lens as a means of having an additional framing option for landscape scenes.  The compact size and amazing optical performance would make this an easy lens to bring along as an alternative to a wide angle lens.  Here’s a few other landscape shots taken with the lens:

Another serious strength for the 56mm DC is that has very strong flare resistance at all tested apertures.  This is, frankly, unusual for a lens at this focus length.  

There’s a lot of really great things going on here!  I mentioned that there was one objective optical flaw, and I also believe that there is a subjective one of far less importance.  Every lens design is a tension between different optical priorities.  It is very, very difficult to create a lens with very high contrast and sharpness that also has very soft bokeh rendering.  That high contrast doesn’t go away past the plane of focus.  I’ve noted that on lenses like the incredible Voigtländer 65mm F2, which is an Apochromatic lens, exceptionally sharp and well-corrected, but also has slightly busier bokeh due to that contrast still being there.  Sometimes aberrations actually contribute to having a soft bokeh rendering (just look at the Canon EF 85mm F1.2L II for a great example). 

Let’s just say that the Sigma 56mm DC isn’t the 85L II.  The bokeh isn’t bad, per se, but it is a little busier than what I would like, with more contrast in the defocused areas than what I would like and a tendency to find hard edges.

Case in point is this comparison shot (taken about 20 minutes apart).  I used the new Samyang AF 85mm F1.4 that I’m also testing.  Due to the crop factor the two lenses have roughly the same framing.  I shot both of them at F1.4, and, while the depth of field between the two varies because of crop factor (the Samyang at F2 on a full frame camera is closer to the depth of field of the Sigma), you can still see the point I’m making.  The Samyang’s bokeh presents as much softer, while the Sigma is clearly more busy.  

If you go in to a pixel level, the Sigma clearly wins in absolute sharpness and aberration control.  That’s it’s strength, but for some, they may also perceive that as a weakness when it comes to the overall rendering from a lens.  This is typically Sigma’s priority, though, as they favor winning sharpness battles above all else (and do a great job at that).  You as a buyer, however, have to evaluate what approach best suits your purpose.  

Bokeh rendering is subjective, however, so here are some more “bokeh images” to let you draw your own conclusions:

But the top priority for this lens is for portrait work, and I think that in most situations it will do a great job there.  Here are a few other portrait shots as well that show off how well the lens performs in its primary role:

What’s clear, however, is that there is a whole more good than bad going on optically with the 56mm DC.  It’s small, versatile, and extremely sharp.  I wouldn’t hesitate to add it to my bag if I was primarily an APS-C shooter.

Conclusion

I’m very, very thankful for the Sigma DN lenses, as they are servicing a niche in the Sony APS-C market that few others (including Sony) are.  We now have very competent lenses with F1.4 apertures at the 16mm, 30mm, and 56mm focal lengths, servicing wide angle, normal, and short telephoto needs.  All of these lenses are easy to bring along in a lightweight kit that gives up very little optically compared to larger combinations.  Sigma has also showed restraint with the pricing of these lenses, with all of them staying well under the $500 threshold.  At the moment the Sigma 56mm F1.4 DC DN is the most expensive of the trio, but it only costs $429 at the time of this review, which I consider to be a very reasonable price considering the performance of the lens. The Sony Zeiss 55mm F1.8 costs twice as much and has a smaller maximum aperture.

The 56mm DC may be the sharpest APS-C lens that I’ve yet tested, and it’s no “paper-tiger”, either.  That sharpness was there in a wide variety of real-world lighting conditions.  It has great color, exceptional aberration control and flare resistance, and fast, accurate autofocus.  It worked well for both stills and video work, and I suspect this will be a very popular lens for a lot of shooters.  It does suffer from some obvious pincushion distortion and the bokeh is perhaps a little busy, but there’s far more to praise than there is to criticize.  If you are a Sony APS-C or M43 mirrrorless shooter and are looking for a medium telephoto lens with a bright maximum aperture, take a long look at the Sigma 56mm F1.4 DC DN.  I can’t think of a better option for you!

Pros:

  • Beautifully built lens with some weather sealing
  • Compact and lightweight
  • Large, bright maximum aperture.
  • Exceptional sharpness across the frame
  • Very high contrast
  • Good color rendition
  • Excellent flare resistance
  • Fast, silent autofocus
  • Excellent focus accuracy (including with Eye AF)
  • Very reasonably priced

Cons:

  • Pronounced pincushion distortion
  • The bokeh is a little busy

 

Gear Used:

Purchase the Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Purchase the Sony a6400 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay

Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Keywords:  Sigma 56mm F1.4, Sigma, 56mm, Sigma 56 1.4, Sigma 56mm 1.4, Sigma 56mm 1.4 Review, DN, Contemporary, F1.4, Sony a6400, Sony Alpha, a6400 Review, Sony, a6400, Review, Dustin Abbott, a6500,  Hands On, Video Test, Sharpness, Autofocus, CA, Video AF, Autofocus, Eye AF, Lens, Comparison, Test, Dustinabbott.net, Sample Images, Sample Video, Normal, Portrait, Travel, Canada, Myrtle Beach

 

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Fujinon XF 16-55mm F2.8 LM WR Review

Dustin Abbott

March 29th, 2019

A few months back I reviewed the newest Fujinon lens in the Fuji “trinity” of fast, F2.8 zoom lenses.  That lens (the XF 8-16mm F2.8 WR) makes up the wide end of the spectrum while the XF 50-140mm F2.8 OS WR covers the telephoto end.  In between those lenses lies the most commonly used option – the jack of all trades – the XF 16-55mm F2.8 WR.  For many people a standard zoom will be their most-used lens, as it can shoot everything from wide angle (24mm FF equivalent) to portraits (84mm FF equivalent).  There are few subjects you can’t address with a lens like this, so it becomes one of the most important options for Fuji shooters.  But it isn’t the only competent lens Fuji has to fill this need, as the Fujinon XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 OIS is also a very popular alternative due to be smaller, lighter, and cheaper while being considerably better than most kit lenses.  So which is the better choice?  That will vary according to your needs, but hopefully this review will help you make an educated decision.

(Photo of the Wyndham Seawatch Plantation where I stayed during my Myrtle Beach trip.)

Prefer to watch your reviews?  Check out my thorough video review here:

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*40MP Update – March 2024

A lot has changed in the past five years since I did this initial review.  I did this initial review on the 26MP X-T3, but in subsequent cameras Fuji has increasingly standardized the use IBIS (In-Body-Image-Stabilization).  This is a huge help to a lens like the XF 16-55mm, as it means the lack of lens based OIS is a no longer a factor.  I used the XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 OIS side-by-side-by-side with the XF 16-55mm and Sigma 18-50mm on (ironically) a return trip to South Carolina and found no difference in stability for either photos or video in real world use.  That was obviously very useful when the light started to dim!  This shot was taken at 1/30th of a second in Charleston, South Carolina.

The other factor that has changed is that Fuji’s new standard of resolution is 40MP in cameras like the X-H2 that I now own and used for an updated look at the XF 16-55mm.  That increase from 26MP to 40MP has been a very demanding one for older Fuji lenses like this one (it is now 9 years old).  Fuji has been refreshing a number of its lenses in the past few years, and my experience is that the newer lenses are much better suited to the demands of 40MP.  I was interested to see how this lens held up optically, not to mention if the improvements to autofocus on more recent bodies have helped to keep it relevant.  If you would like to see my findings, check out this updated review video here.

Bottom line:  this lens is showing its age in some areas and is due for an update, but I’ll also note that its color rendition and build quality are still tops in the class.

Fujinon XF 16-55mm F2.8 Build and Handling

It is rare to find lens like this one on other systems for the simple reason that most other manufacturers primarily reserve their premium lens development for full frame.  By and large the APS-C development for Canon, Nikon, or Sony is consumer-grade, not premium options.  Fuji has elected to focus on APS-C, which means that they actually develop professional grade APS-C lenses.  This video segment will give you an up-close view of the build and design of the lens:

This actually causes some consternation from people coming from other platforms, as some of these lenses seem too large and too expensive for APS-C lenses,  But for lenses like the XF 16-55mm, the comparison is not really the standard “kit lens” that people are accustomed to  but rather something like full frame 24-70mm F2.8 lenses, which are universally larger, heavier, and more expensive yet than the XF 16-55.  But the XF 16-55mm is big enough:  it is 3.28″ (83.3mm) in diameter, carrying a 77mm filter size, and weighs in at 1.44lb (655g).

The full name of the lens is Fujinon XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR Lens.  If you don’t speak Fuji, here’s what those initials mean:

  • XF refers to the native mount of the lens, which is Fuji’s X-mount
  • R refers to the fact that the lens has an aperture ring (though you can select Automatic to control the aperture from the camera or allow the camera to control the aperture
  • LM refers to the premium Linear Motors that drive the lens’ autofocus
  • WR stands for “Weather Resistant”, pointing to the superior weather sealing of the lens.

 In short, the only real premium option missing here is Fuji’s OIS, or “Optical Image Stabilizer”, which would have been a great addition.

The XF 16-55mm has three rings on the barrel. The first is the aperture ring, which gives you the option to manually select aperture values (in 1/3rd stop values, i.e. F2.8, F3.2, F3.5, F4) or to select A (Auto) and control aperture from within the camera.

The second ring is the zoom ring, and it moves perfectly (it is both smooth and nicely damped). The inner barrel extends around an inch (2-3cm) when zoomed out to the 55mm position.

The final ring is the manual focus ring. Like other mirrorless lenses, the XF 16-55mm employs a focus by wire manual focus system where input is taken from the ring and then routed through the focus motor to move the lens elements. There is no direct coupling to the lens elements. This appears to be a necessary evil for mirrorless cameras, but it really diminishes the manual focus experience in terms of feel and precision. There are no hard stops, so less physical response to the limits of focus, and also the actual focus feeling itself is a bit numb. On the plus side, most Fuji bodies have a number of options for manual focus aids to make sure focus is easy to nail.

It has a nice degree of weather sealing, as well, with a rear gasket to seal at the mount along with internal seals at key points in the lens:

This sets it apart from the closest Canon equivalent, the aging EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 IS USM lens for APS-C.  That lens lacks a lot of premium features found in the Fuji and fails to deliver nearly as compelling a performance.  The XF 16-55mm feels every bit as well made as most 24-70mm full frame lenses, and handles extremely well.  

It looks, handles, and acts like a premium lens…because it is.

Fuji XF 16-55mm F2.8 Autofocus

As previously noted, the XF 16-55mm sports premium linear motors in its autofocus design, and these give the lens an excellent autofocus performance.  I should note that I did my review on the Fuji X-T3, which, at the time of this review, is Fuji’s newest and most sophisticated autofocusing camera. This combination delivers great focus results, with focus arriving near instantly and always silently. Even in poorer lighting I got good autofocus, though you’ll see better results if you select fewer points and help the AF know where you want it to focus.  Like most mirrorless cameras, the X-T3 prefers reasonable contrast to grab quick focus, but I doubt the XF 16-55mm is hampering focus in any way.  My focus accuracy over my review period was excellent.

That was true even when shooting an event in a modestly lit hotel conference room where I had ISO at 5000 to keep the shutter speed up to 1/125th second.  As you can from this shot, the autofocus had no issues nailing accurately under those conditions.

This shot was taken at night where I wanted to do a long exposure.  It was a 20 second exposure, but I don’t recall having any issue achieving focus under these conditions.

I also had excellent results when shooting portraits, where the lens/camera combination locked onto the eye and nailed focus.

In fact, I don’t recall a real-world photography situation where I even thought about focus, which, really, is the best endorsement I can give a lens.  The AF system did it’s work quickly and quietly.

Fujinon XF 16-55mm F2.8 for Video

For video work I’m a little less bullish, though I suspect it has less to do with the lens and more to do with the nature of Fuji’s Video AF Servo focus.  In Continuous AF mode, the focus transitions aren’t quite as smooth as competing systems from Canon or Sony.  I find that with Fuji you can actually see some of the “steps” as focus moves rather than a smoother transition from one point to another.  I also did a test (in my video review) where I compared the XF 16-55/X-T3 combination with the Sony a7R3 + Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 RXD to see how face tracking compared.  The Sony/Tamron combo was definitely smoother in transition and a bit more accurate.

Outside of that (an issue I’ve noted with all Fuji lenses tested to this point), I thought the lens produced really incredible footage (you can see a lot of it in the video review).  Great color, great detail, and the smooth zooming action allowed for me to zoom while recording (on a tripod) with nice results.

Fujinon XF 16-55mm F2.8 Image Quality

The Fujinon XF 16-55mm has a fantastic zoom range that covers a variety of subjects and also gives you a lot of different framing options.  Here’s Niagara Falls (from my 16th floor room) at 16mm:

And now at 55mm:

Two very different perspectives, with a lot of options in between.  The challenge inherit with such a broad zoom range is that engineers have to overcome the hurdles inherit in both wide angle and telephoto lenses.  There are a few compromises involved, though fortunately I would say many of those challenges are mitigated.  If you want the full breakdown on the image quality, watch this interactive video segment:

Here’s where I think the optical formula (17 elements in 12 groups) comes up short:

  • Some barrel distortion persists even after in camera corrections.  In my first comparison you can see what a file looks like before further correction, with the comparison on the right being after I’ve done some manual correction in Lightroom.  The lines are never quite perfect.  This will mostly present as a problem if you have a straight horizon line near the edge of the frame, like in the second photo of the Atlantic Ocean.  In the final photo, one of a building, I see less obvious issues other than the typical keystoning due more to perspective distortion than barrel distortion.

  • At 16mm the lens doesn’t quite ever get sharp in the corners.  The center of the frame is fantastically sharp from f2.8 on, as is about 2/3rds of the frame, but the corners (as you can see in the second comparison) never improve very much (even when stopped down to F8).  While real world images aren’t often as demanding, you can see that my final crop (at F5.6) does show softness in the crop of the corners.  

The final image in the series above shows that this last criticism is probably not a huge factor for many shooters.  Real world images (this one is at F4) look pretty fantastic.  If you are a hard core landscape photographer, however, and don’t need a zoom, you might consider the Fujinon XF 16mm F1.4 to get better corner performance at 16mm.

The XF 16-55mm gets very high marks for great color and contrast, however, particularly when paired with a good circular polarizer (one of my favorite means of intensifying colors).  Many of these photos taken using an Irix Edge Circular Polarizing filter (a filter series that I’ll soon release a review of).  I was really delighted with the overall look of my images.  Here’s a mini-gallery to show what I mean:

If you would like to see many more photos, please visit the Lens Image Gallery here.

Resolution in the center of the frame is excellent at any aperture value, and the evenness of the sharpness across the frame is more consistent beyond 20mm.  If you want more details at each focal length, please watch the video above.

Bokeh is also surprisingly good for a standard zoom.  I felt that it had a good balance between sharpness on the subject and a nicely defocused background.  Here’s a few samples at different focal lengths and focus distances:

Flare resistance, while not perfect, was fairly good, with little veiling and only a few ghosting artifacts.  The sunburst is not the cleanest I’ve seen, but neither is it really objectionable.  There are nine founded aperture blades that that keep the aperture shape fairly round when stopped down.

At times I could see some lateral chromatic aberrations (green and purple fringing along the edge of the frame) through the viewfinder, but the in camera profile must do an effective job of correcting for it, as I was unable to really find any notable example in my hundreds of real world images.  Longitudinal chromatic aberrations are also well corrected optically.  If they existed, this shot would definitely show them off.

I shot a variety of portrait shots with the lens.  The only flash unit I had access to is the little EF-X8 that serves instead of a pop-up flash and has about as much punch, so I had little means of equalizing the light ratios with a strongly backlit subject.  I shot some shots with the background “chimped” (slightly overexposed while still pleasing) and then also shot some with the subject underexposed (silhouetted) to allow the background to pop.  I was very pleased with the global look the images.  These images in this series have had next to no processing and represent essentially what came out of camera:

The minimum focus distance with the lens is right under a foot (30cm), but the maximum magnification figure (0.16x) is not overly impressive.  It’s useful, but it won’t trick anyone into thinking it was a macro shot:

My images, in general, put a smile on my face…and in a lens with such versatility, I feel like that’s a great thing.

There are compromises in such a zoom lens, but I feel like they are fairly well managed here.  I’ve not seen many complaints from users over the optical performance of the XF 16-55mm.

Conclusion

It is impossible to overestimate the importance of a lens like the Fujinon XF 16-55mm F2.8 LM WR.  I think it would easy to argue that if you could own only one lens, it would be one must like this one.  It isn’t perfect, but it is extremely competent in just about every situation and delivers beautiful images.  The focal length (a full frame equivalent of 24-84mm) ably covers everything from landscapes to portrait.  There are only two potential objections.  The first is that the XF 16-55mm is larger and heavier than what many were looking for when they moved to the compact Fuji X system.  The second is the existence of the Fujinon XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 OIS lens, which combines a much smaller size and less than half the weight and adds image stabilization, though at a loss of a constant maximum aperture and two critical millimeters on the wide end.  That extra width means more than one might think, and there will be situations where wider framing will be missed by those using the 18-55mm lens.  A potential third objection has been the price, which has trended near double that of the 18-55 ($699 vs $1199), but at the time of my review, that gap has closed considerably due to Fuji having an extended rebate period on their higher end lenses.  Right now the XF 16-55mm is $899.  At that price, I would personally spend the extra money to get the constantly maximum aperture (F2.8 definitely trumps F4 for portrait and event work!) and the extra width on the landscape end of things.  If you are a video shooter, however, the OIS on the 18-55mm might sway you in the opposite direction. 

Either way, we are blessed to have two solid options for a general purpose zoom lens on Fuji X-mount – just pick which one fits your needs…and happy shooting!

View more Fuji lenses for portrait, landscape, and macro photography.

Pros:

  • Excellent build quality and strong handling
  • Excellent focal range
  • Strong center sharpness across aperture values
  • Fast, quiet focus
  • Gorgeous color rendition
  • Good bokeh
  • Flare resistance fairly good
  • Good weather sealing

Cons:

  • Some barrel distortion at 16mm
  • Corners never really sharpen up at 16mm
  • No OIS
  • On the large and heavier side for APS-C lenses
  • Expensive

Gear Used:

Purchase the Fujinon XF 16-55mm F2.8 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Purchase the FUJIFilm X-T3 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay

Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Keywords:  Fujinon, Fuji XF, Fuji 16-55, Fujinon 16-55, XF, Fujinon XF 16-55mm, F2.8, F/2.8, Fuji, Fuji 16-55mm review, Fujinon 16-55 Review, Fujinon 16-55mm F2.8 Review, Dustin Abbott, Fujifilm, X-T3, Fuji X-T3, X-T3 Review, Fuji X-T3 Review, Fujinon, Review, Hands On, Video Test, Sharpness, Autofocus, CA, Video AF, XF 16-55mm F2.8, Lens, Comparison, Test, Dustinabbott.net, Sample Images, Sample Video, Normal, Portrait, Travel, Canada, Myrtle Beach

 

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

March 27th, 2019

Sigma has once again managed to do for mirrorless what they seemingly cannot do with DSLR lenses – make an optically excellent, COMPACT lens.   The Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C is the 6th (by my count) of Sigma’s DN line for APS-C (and Micro 4/3rds) mirrorless cameras.  The first series were the ART primes (tiny 19mm, 30mm, and 60mm lenses with maximum apertures of F2.8) followed by the slightly larger, brighter Contemporary lenses (16mm, 30mm, and now 56mm primes with a maximum aperture of F1.4).  The 56mm is the perfect portrait lens for the series.  It’s a great focal length (84mm equivalent on full frame) with a wonderfully bright aperture of F1.4.  As you can see from some of the photos below, it makes for a great portrait lens while staying incredibly compact.  It’s got some great strengths, and a few weaknesses.  I’ll detail them all in my coverage, so stay tuned!  The photos below were taken primarily with the new Sony a6400 along with a Sony a6500 (which gives the benefit of image stabilization!)

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Photos of the Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C

Photos taken with the Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C

Gear Used:

Purchase the Sigma DN 56mm F1.4 C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Purchase the Sony a6400 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay

Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

Check me out on:  My Patreon  | Sign Up for My Newsletter |  Instagram | Facebook | Twitter | Flickr | 500px |  Google+ |






 

Use Code “DUSTINHDR” to get $10 off ($15 CDN) Luminar and/or AuroraHDR

 

 

Keywords:  Sigma 56mm F1.4, Sigma, 56mm, Sigma 56 1.4, Sigma 56mm 1.4, Sigma 56mm 1.4 Review, DN, Contemporary, F1.4, Sony a6400, Sony Alpha, a6400 Review, Sony, a6400, Review, Dustin Abbott, a6500,  Hands On, Video Test, Sharpness, Autofocus, CA, Video AF, Autofocus, Eye AF, Lens, Comparison, Test, Dustinabbott.net, Sample Images, Sample Video, Normal, Portrait, Travel, Canada, Myrtle Beach

 

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.