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Megadap ETZ21 Pro Sony E to Nikon Z Adapter Review

Dustin Abbott

November 25th, 2024

When I first started using Sony E-mount, I was coming off a period of more than a decade where I had used the Canon EF ecosystem exclusively. It was a delight to find that there were adapters that would allow me to use my Canon lenses on my Sony camera as well. I used and reviewed a number of popular adapters from brands like Metabones, Sigma, and Vello, but found that they all came with some serious limitations. Over time I tired of used my EF lenses adapted for two primary reasons: 1) size and weight. 2) Inadequate performance. My favorite of the adapters proved to be the Sigma MC-11, but it added 125g to the weight of every lens attached to it and added another 26mm in length. This was necessary to adapt a DSLR mount to a mirrorless design. The optical path needs to be in a completely different place, so the optics need to be moved further away from the sensor to achieve proper infinity focus. I found that there was a huge spectrum of performance, too, with some lenses working fairly well and others being very inconsistent. Video AF, in particular, was pretty rough where it existed at all.

But here we are again looking at a new type of adapter, in this case adapting one mirrorless lens mount (Sony E-mount) to another mirrorless lens mount (Nikon Z-mount). The rules are a bit different this time. For one, the “flange distance” between the two mounts is similar, so now the adapter itself is just a few millimeters thick (2mm, to be exact), adding almost no additional bulk to lenses. There is a bit of weight, but, at 43g on my scale, it’s a third of what we dealt with the EF to FE adapters. And the performance seems to be better, too, with even some usable (though not flawless) performance for video. So is the Megadap ETZ21 Pro worth a $250 investment? Find out my thoughts by watching the video review below…or just keep reading.

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Thanks to Megadap for providing a review sample of the ETZ21 Pro.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the 45MP Nikon Z8, which I reviewed here.

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There will be some continuity between this review and another of the Neewer NW-ETZ adapter, as I’ve spent time with both in an attempt to get up to speed as to which adapter works better.

I’m reviewing the more recent ETZ21 Pro. There was previously an ETZ21 adapter as well that some of you may already own. What’s changed from the standard adapter to the Pro adapter?

There are two significant improvements. One is that rather than having to do firmware updates through a separate process, you can now run firmware updates through the camera body just as you would a Nikon lens. The second major improvement is to the mechanical design to allow for a better fit for Tamron lenses (and other third party lenses as well). There’s also a redesign to the lens release button to allow for a smoother mount/unmount process. Megadap repeatedly emphasizes that the performance of both adapters is the same, so this isn’t going to change the autofocus performances in any appreciable way.

In my research, I found that Megadap has released 5 firmware updates in the past year, which is encouraging, as that shows an ongoing commitment to improving their product not just via new releases. Improvements include squashing bugs with certain lenses, improving function, adding compatibility with new brands, and helping to eliminate issues like battery drain.

So does it work? The short answer is “yes”, and in many situations autofocus is remarkably ordinary. The shot above was taken with the ETZ21 Pro allowing my Sony FE 50mm F1.4 G Master (a beautiful lens!) to work on my Nikon Z8. And how precise is that focus at F1.4? Take a look here:

So let’s dive a little deeper.

Build and Design

As noted previously this is a pretty simple device in some ways. Essentially it feels like a metal lens mount detached from a lens.

At just 2mm thick, it essentially just goes onto the lens like a second mount.

You really won’t notice that the adapter is there once mounted, and I found that in the half dozen lenses that I tested with it, mounting and unmounting lenses remained relatively simple. Lenses fit well without any wobble. I prefer to remove the lens from the camera before removing the adapter from the lens, as there isn’t much left to grab from the camera mount once the lens is removed. The adapter is very, very thin. Always be sure to power down the camera before removing anything, however.

The improved release mechanism works nicely, and isn’t hard to depress for removing lenses.

The magic of the adapter is the dual sets of electronic contacts you can see at the back of the adapter. One is the backside of the Sony contacts, while the most prominent contacts (on the top of the image below) are the Nikon Z-mount contacts.

The front of the adapter has the pins that will come in contact with the Sony E-mount lenses.

Presumably there is some kind of processor hidden in there to do the focus algorithm conversions, though I wasn’t able to find any information on that.

The Megadap adapter definitely bests the Newer in one regard: it accurately delivers the EXIF information, whereas the Neewer seems to try to find a Nikon equivalent.

Both of the images in the comparison were shot with the Tamron 35-150mm F2-F2.8 VXD, and the Megadap shows the proper lens designation (including A058, Tamron’s internal code for the lens), while the Neewer reported VR 35-150mm F2-2.8G, which is clearly not accurate (this is not a G lens, nor does it have VR). The Megadap also reported properly for the two Sony lenses I tested, the Sigma lens, and the Viltrox lens. The Neewer reported the Sony lenses as VR 35mm F1.4G and VR 50mm F1.4G, while the Megadap properly recorded them as FE 35mm and 50mm F1.4 GM, respectively.

Megadap reports that at the moment their adapter is the only one to work with Nikon DX (APS-C) cameras, though that will almost certainly change in the future.

One final observation – you will be covering the weather sealing gasket on your Sony FE mount lens, if so equipped, and the adapter itself has no gasket, so there is some possibility that your weather sealing may not be as complete with the adapter in place, so bear that in mind.

Stills Autofocus with the ETZ21 Pro

I’ve been interested in seeing how these adapters work with good Sony lenses, including the 35mm and 50mm GM lenses, but also how they work with some third party lenses, including popular lenses from Tamron, Sigma, and Viltrox.

Let’s start with a practical test. I took the the Sony 50mm F1.4 GM on a hike using the ETZ21 Pro on my Z8, and also had an inexpensive Yongnuo YN 33mm F1.4 mounted on a Sony body. Both combos, in theory, shake out to about the same thing, as the YN 33mm is an APS-C lens, leaving a 50mm equivalence. Autofocus in bare form would obviously favor the GM lens, which has multiple XD (Extreme Dynamic) linear motors whereas the Yongnuo has a more basic single STM focus motor. In many situations the adapted Sony lens worked about as well as the Yongnuo (which actually focuses quite well), with one exception that stood out to me. When attempting to focus on a close subject, the Megadap combo would often stick on the background, requiring me to try to find a more obvious (bigger, higher contrast) subject in about the same focus distance I wanted and then going back to the desired subject. If I didn’t do that, focus looked like this:

The correct focus (which I achieved by pointing the camera basically at the ground first and then returning to correct subject. Focus would lock accurately then.) looks like this:

It’s worth noting that the Yongnuo in shooting the exact same shot immediately locked on the correct focus point.

Now clearly the GM lens delivered a superior looking image than the cheaper lens, but it does go to show that even an inexpensive native lens is going to autofocus a little better than an adapted lens in this situation.

Still, however, I was able to get all the shots that I wanted on my hike, and the end results were accurately focused. Shots like these ferns that still provided a pop of green in the mid-November death of vegetation.

Or this bare branch with just enough moss growing on it to provide a nice subtle color contrast against the background.

These shots were all at F1.4, but I also had good results when shooting landscape shots at smaller apertures.

So, I think I can safely say that autofocus accuracy is not a problem. At the margins, however, I think you’ll find a few places where autofocus doesn’t quite match what’s possible with a native lens.

What’s interesting, however, is that if you have a high speed autofocus system on Sony, you will continue to get fast autofocus on Nikon via adapter. I compared the focus speed of the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 lens and that the of Sony 50mm F1.4 GM lens via adapter back to back on my Z8, and there was no question that the focus speed (and arguably confidence) in this test actually favored the GM lens.

That makes sense, as really the adapter’s job is to send the correct communications from the lens to the AF system via the contacts, so a fast focusing lens should continue to be a fast focusing lens, with the only real slowdown being from the need to “reinterpret” the focus algorithms from one language (Sony) to another (Nikon). So a faster focusing lens (Sony GM) bests a slower focusing lens (Nikkor Z 50mm) even if there is a slight slowdown due to focus algorithms.

But what about the same lens? I had a unique opportunity to compare the Z-mount version of the Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 with an adapter E-mount version of the same lens since I happened to have both of them on hand. In a pure focus test, I definitely found that the Z-mount version focused faster, with the adapted E-mount version being a little slower. Both would be fast enough for real world use, however.

I was also interested in seeing if the adapter affected the optical performance. In theory, it shouldn’t really affect sharpness, as there is no optical elements in the adapter themselves. No elements should mean no effect upon sharpness. As far as what I actually found, I don’t think there is any optical degradation. When I did a side by side comparison between the E-mount and Nikon Z-mount version of the Viltrox 16mm I found that there was just some give and take. I found the Z-mount version was a little sharper in the center…

…but the corner favored the E-mount version:

In other words, no consistent difference. I shot at different apertures and got similar results.

What I did find on a practical level was that when I was using the adapter I tended to get a bit of underexposure. I saw this when I compared the Viltrox 16mm lenses (the adapted lens metered at 1/400th, while the native mount lens metered at 1/250th), but I also saw it when just shooting during my hike. I ended up using exposure compensation for the second half of my hike and found that using 2/3rds of a stop of exposure compensation actually produced what I considered accurate exposure.

I didn’t see any kind of additional issues with flare or aberrations.

I was able to successfully use the Sony FE 35mm F1.4 GM (fast focus due to being a fast focusing lens), and got good results with the Tamron 35-150mm F2-2.8 VXD (fast, but not GM level fast), with good but slightly slower results coming with the Sigma 85mm F1.4 DN due to having a single STM focus motor.

Bottom line: the autofocus speed for stills you’ll get will depend a lot on the initial autofocus speed of the lens you’re adapting. Everything is slightly slower, but the better focusing lenses are fast enough that they are still fast even if you slow them down a bit.

At the same time, I wouldn’t want to rely on this combination for tracking fast action. Even with Nala trotting towards me at a moderately fast pace, I found that photos were fairly close but almost always backfocused a bit.

I think it is important to stay realistic about what adapted lenses can and cannot do. For most tasks, autofocus is plenty good enough. For fast action, with long telephotos, or for things like birding, I would say that using a native mount lenses is a smarter choice.

Video Autofocus

*These results will be easier to see in the video review for obvious reasons.

The good news is that you can still get autofocus during video capture, though there is a bit less confidence overall. I found that I encountered more pulsing during focus pulls, which is generally a byproduct of focus not being confident enough to lock. It would do a quick micropulse in the wrong direction sometimes.

I did a few tests walking towards the camera, and found that the results varied a bit. I did spot one principle difference with the Neewer NW-ETZ adapter, as I saw A) more reliable subject tracking with the Megadap adapter and B) seemed to get profile corrections in video with the Megadap but not the Neewer.

Using the Sigma 85mm F1.4 DN and its slightly slower autofocus motor I found that I got fairly decent tracking even at F1.4 as I walked towards the camera. Autofocus moved mostly smoothly with me and footage looked great. When I stepped out of frame, however, and focus moved to the background, autofocus did not pick me back up when I stepped back into frame.

I switched to the faster 50mm GM lens, and it was much more successful at picking me up when I stepped back in the frame.

So, as before, you’ll get your best results for video AF when using more confident lenses. This is definitely a far cry from the video AF experience I got back in the day adapting Canon EF lenses, though just know that if you put these adapted lenses in demanding situations you may be a bit disappointed, but for most work you’ll be just fine.

Conclusion

Switching to a new camera brand can be a daunting experience, as the sheer cost of selling what you have (typically at a significant loss) and then rebuying everything for the new brand is expensive. The Megadap ETZ21 Pro is a great way to bridge that gap, however, if you happen to be coming from Sony E-mount to Nikon Z. You can keep using the lenses you love without adding any bulk and only minimal weight, and that weight is right up close to the camera where you won’t notice it anyway.

Or perhaps you just have certain lenses that you love on E-mount but there isn’t an equivalent lens on Z-mount. The Megadap is a great way to use a favorite lens on two systems, or just keep an old friend to enjoy on a new platform.

Either way, this little adapter seems worth the money. It works effectively for stills other than not wanting to focus on a close subject periodically, and it even works surprisingly well for video, too, though perhaps not quite as seamlessly. My expectations were largely set by experience with former adapters, and I would say that the the Megadap ETZ21 Pro easily exceeded those. It’s a better adapting experience than any that I’ve personally experienced, matching even what I saw when adapting Canon EF to Canon RF mount using a Canon adapter. The fact that a third party adapter has pulled that off is pretty impressive, and I’ll personally enjoy using some of my favorite E-mount lenses on my Nikon camera(s) moving ahead.

Pros:

  • Love how compact the adapter is
  • Seems to enjoy a certain amount of first party support (firmware updates, lens profiles).
  • Improved lens release button makes adding or removing a lens easier
  • Autofocus for stills is generally very good
  • Was able to track some action during video capture
  • Ongoing support via firmware

Cons:

  • Sometimes reluctant to focus on a close subject
  • Some pulsing during video pulls

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GEAR USED:

Purchase the Megadap ETZ21 Pro @ B&H | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada

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Purchase the Nikon Z8 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Want to support this channel? Use these affiliate links to shop at: B&H Photo | Amazon | Adorama | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay | Make a donation via Paypal

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Keywords: Megadap, ETZ21 Pro, Sony, E-mount, Adapter, Megadap Review, ETZ21 Review, Pro, ETZ21, Neewer, NW-ETZ, NW-ETZ, Neewer, Z, Z-mount, Z8, Review, mirrorless, Full Frame, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 45MP, #letthelightin, #DA, #NIKON, #Z8, #NIKONZ8

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 Gallery

Dustin Abbott

November 22nd, 2024

My time spent with the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 reminds of past eras where first party brands like Nikon and Canada often had three tiers of 50mm lenses: a “plastic fantastic” F1.8 option priced low and built cheap, a mid level F1.4 option, and then a premium F1.2 option. Nikon’s strategy on Z-mount has been a little different, as their initial 50mm release was the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.8 S lens, and that lens was priced (and sized) more like the mid-tier option at roughly $625 USD. That makes the new Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 lens a little harder to categorize, as it is about the same size as the F1.8 lens and priced a bit lower at right under $500 USD. And yet this also feels right, like the proper price and performance for a mid-tier lens. We’ve got the premium Nikkor Z 50mm F1.2 S in the $2000 zone, so it’s really the 50mm F1.8 that is the oddity. I like the Nikkor 50mm F1.4Z a lot (and I haven’t yet tested the 50mm F1.8 S as I’m new to the Nikon party), so the question is the release of this lens going to confuse potential buyers? Find out my thoughts by watching the video review, reading the text review, or by checking out the photos in the gallery below.

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__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks to Camera Canada for the loaner of the Nikkor 50mm F1.4.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the 45MP Nikon Z8, which I reviewed here.

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My biggest takeaway from my time spent with the Nikkor 50mm F1.4Z is “enough”. I feel like Nikon has done a great job of giving us enough of everything – build, autofocus, and optical performance. Yes, there are higher performing 50mm lenses, but this lens feels like enough for most people in most situations, and thus it feels like a really good value to me for a first party F1.4 lens. I had no problem producing images that I liked with this lens.

I also appreciate how they’ve kept the size down. This lens weighs on 422g, which is lightweight enough that you could use it on a Zf body and not feel like it overmatched the camera. It feels positively svelte on my big Z8 body.

Put simply, this is a lens that I really like, and it didn’t hurt that it wasn’t really outclassed in many ways even though I reviewed it at the same time as the new Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM…a lens that costs $1000 more! So is the “enough” lens the one for you? Check out of the reviews if you want more info, or just enjoy the photos below.

Photos of the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4

Photos taken with the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4

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GEAR USED:

Purchase the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Purchase the Nikon Z8 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Want to support this channel? Use these affiliate links to shop at: B&H Photo | Amazon | Adorama | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay | Make a donation via Paypal

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Keywords: Nikkor, 50mm, F1.4, Nikkor 50mm F1.4, Nikon 50mm F1.4, f/1.4, Nikon, Nikon Z8, Z, Z-mount, Z8, Review, mirrorless, Full Frame, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 45MP, #letthelightin, #DA, #NIKON, #Z8, #NIKONZ8

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 Review

Dustin Abbott

November 22nd, 2024

My time spent with the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 reminds of past eras where first party brands like Nikon and Canada often had three tiers of 50mm lenses: a “plastic fantastic” F1.8 option priced low and built cheap, a mid level F1.4 option, and then a premium F1.2 option. Nikon’s strategy on Z-mount has been a little different, as their initial 50mm release was the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.8 S lens, and that lens was priced (and sized) more like the mid-tier option at roughly $625 USD. That makes the new Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 lens a little harder to categorize, as it is about the same size as the F1.8 lens and priced a bit lower at right under $500 USD. And yet this also feels right, like the proper price and performance for a mid-tier lens. We’ve got the premium Nikkor Z 50mm F1.2 S in the $2000 zone, so it’s really the 50mm F1.8 that is the oddity. I like the Nikkor 50mm F1.4Z a lot (and I haven’t yet tested the 50mm F1.8 S as I’m new to the Nikon party), so the question is the release of this lens going to confuse potential buyers? Find out my thoughts by watching the video review below…or just keep reading.

Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px | X

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks to Camera Canada for the loaner of the Nikkor 50mm F1.4.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the 45MP Nikon Z8, which I reviewed here.

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My biggest takeaway from my time spent with the Nikkor 50mm F1.4Z is “enough”. I feel like Nikon has done a great job of giving us enough of everything – build, autofocus, and optical performance. Yes, there are higher performing 50mm lenses, but this lens feels like enough for most people in most situations, and thus it feels like a really good value to me for a first party F1.4 lens. I had no problem producing images that I liked with this lens.

I also appreciate how they’ve kept the size down. This lens weighs on 422g, which is lightweight enough that you could use it on a Zf body and not feel like it overmatched the camera. It feels positively svelte on my big Z8 body.

Put simply, this is a lens that I really like, and it didn’t hurt that it wasn’t really outclassed in many ways even though I reviewed it at the same time as the new Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM…a lens that costs $1000 more! So is the “enough” lens the one for you? Keep reading to find out.

Nikkor 50mm F1.4Z Build and Handling

As noted, the 50mm F1.4Z is a pretty lightweight lens at 422g or 14.9oz. It accomplishes that by being made of engineered plastics, yes, but also by being relatively compact. The lens is 76.2mm in diameter (3″) x 88.9 mm (3.5″) in length.

For some perspective, that’s about 4mm narrow and 8mm shorter than the Sony 50mm F1.4 GM, though the GM is obviously a more feature rich lens. The Nikkor lens is nearly 100g lighter, however. It’s relatively compact for a modern 50mm F1.4, but if you want to go small and light, you might want to consider the very compact 40mm F2 instead.

The front filter size is a relatively uncommon 62mm.

At least the 50mm F1.4Z has a metal lens mount! It also has decent weather sealing, with about 7 seal points by my count.

I will note that the gasket at the rear mount is so small as to be nearly undetectable. Nikon’s language on the lens listing is a little contradictory. They say, “Designed carefully considering dust and drip-resistant performance” but then add this caveat: Thorough dust and moisture-resistance is not guaranteed in all situations.” In other words, there’s some weather sealing here, but no guarantees if you push your luck. On their listing for the 50mm F1.2 S they are more confident in their language (The NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.2 S is extensively sealed to keep out dust and moisture, especially around the moving parts of the lens barrel. A little water won’t hurt a Z camera or lens, so go out and make the most of that rainy day) but does have a similar caveat in the fine print. I suspect this is just Nikon covering their rears if someone drops their camera into the ocean or pool!

There is a secondary ring on the lens barrel, which is Nikon’s control ring. There’s a different texture to this ring which makes it easy to differentiate from the wider ribbing on the manual focus ring. This control ring, like Canon’s control ring on their RF lenses, can be assigned from the camera to control aperture, shutter speed, ISO speed, or exposure compensation. Unlike Canon’s control ring, however, which has clicks or detents, the 50mm F1.4Z’s ring is declicked and moves smoothly. I typically use the control ring as a manual aperture ring, and I don’t actually love this particular ring for that. Without clicks it feels imprecise, and I find it very easy to blow right by the aperture value I’m looking for.

There are no switches or buttons on the lens barrel, but rather most of it is dominated by the wide manual focus ring. The feel of the ring is fairly good, with good damping and precision. I like Nikon’s options for controlling the behavior of the manual focus ring, allowing you to choose a linear response and your desired focus throw distance.

The aperture iris is made up of nine rounded blades, allowing for a circular aperture shape when the lens is stopped down.

As you stop the aperture down, the overall shape is “roundish” but you can slightly see the shape of the aperture blades.

There is a fairly deep lens hood included. There are ribs inside and a ridged grip section to make it easier to mount/unmount the lens.

We have got a closer that average minimum focus distance of right over 37cm which results in a very useful 0.17x magnification level.

You can see that the plane of focus isn’t particularly flat, however, so the area of sharpness occupies a thin area even with this two dimensional subject.

Stopping down a bit helps to improve up close performance, and here’s a shot at F2 and at the minimum focus distance.

I would consider that useful, particularly since the average for 50mm lenses tends to be in the 0.15x level. Both the 50mm F1.8 S and the 50mm F1.2 S are at that 0.15x level, so I appreciate the extra bit of magnification here.

There really aren’t a lot of 50mm F1.4 competitors on Z mount thus far, but even if they were, it’s hard to imagine them undercutting this price of $499 USD by much. I appreciate the restraint that Nikon has shown with the pricing here. The 50mm F1.4Z isn’t a fancy lens, but it feels like “enough” and the lens doesn’t feel cheap to me. All told I feel pretty solidly impressed by the lens.

Autofocus and Video

The Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 utilizes a stepping focus motor (STM) that is, for the most part, surprisingly fast. Focus changes happen very quickly whether indoors or outdoors, and most of the time you won’t think about autofocus at all because the job just gets done quickly and efficiently. I was able to track action sequences with good accuracy in a gym even shooting at F1.4. I shot bursts at 30FPS on my Z8 and got nearly perfectly focused long bursts.

I had very good results when shoot portraits, with beautiful focus on the eyes.

I shot backlit shots with very strong directional sun, and I had no problem getting accurate focuses at F1.4.

I used the new Godox AD200 Pro II strobe for this shot, and I continued to have accurate focus results even when shooting at F5.6:

I got accurate results when shooting in low light at F1.4. Focus didn’t seem to really slow down much.

There is a faint whirring sound if you put your ear right next to the lens barrel, but if I held the camera at chest level and racked focus here and there, I couldn’t hear anything. Focus speed in my formal tests was not instant but was nice and fast racking back and forth.

I’ve got no concerns for autofocus for stills.

Video Autofocus

My first test was video focus pulls, and I saw quick, confident pulls from one subject to another in my standard test. The pulls were tuned more towards speed than a slow, cinematic damping, but you could modify that a bit with camera settings. More importantly, I didn’t see any visible steps from the STM motor. There was an occasion little micropulse, but it was rare. I did shoot some low light 8K footage, however, and found an occasional rack in the wrong direction during pulls there, but that was a much more demanding scenario.

Focus breathing felt fairly well controlled. It’s there, but not anything ugly.

My “hand test” where I alternately block the camera’s view of my face with my hand and then remove it was more of a mixed bag. I sometimes had a hard time convincing the camera/lens to focus on my hand (even what that was clearly the domination subject in frame), though other times it would transition fine. That’s fair consistent with what I’ve seen from Nikon relative to the typical performance I see on Sony or Canon. On a positive note, those transitions were smooth due to the relatively low focus breathing.

I had very good results when walking towards the camera, with consistent tracking of my face, and when I ducked out of frame and then back in, the lens was relatively quick in picking me back up. I’ve also used the lens for several review videos for my channel along with about four long format teaching sessions. In every case face tracking has been completely reliable.

I shot one clip where I was tracking dried grasses at F1.4 as they blew in the strong autumn wind. Focus did a great job of staying on the moving subject, as can be seen from the freeze frame above.

All told there is a lot to like here in the autofocus performance. It’s not a high end dual linear focus motor system like what is in my Sony 50mm F1.4 G Master lens, but again, for the money, this feels like more than enough performance to get the job done in just about every situations.

Image Quality Breakdown

The Nikkor Z 50mm F2 is an FX (full frame lens), though it can also be used on DX cameras where it will give a full frame equivalent of 75mm due to the 1.5x crop factor on DX. This is a relatively simple optical design of 10 elements in 7 groups, including one aspherical element. This is clearly not the same optical design as their older DSLR era AF-S 50mm F1.4, which had 8 elements in 7 groups. The MTF chart shows significant improvement all across the frame relative to that older lens.

I really liked the rendering from the Nikkor Z 40mm F2, but I was less impressed with the real world sharpness. Just based on the MTF charts, the 50mm F1.4Z shouldn’t really be sharper, but in real world practice I was perfect satisfied with the sharpness and contrast I got from the lens.

This is the opposite of a paper tiger; it looks better in reality than it does in an MTF chart, and I think the early user reviews reflect that.

This is not a perfectly corrected lens, as we’ll see below, but sometimes a bit of uncorrected aberrations actually allow a lens to have more character.

One of the areas that is not perfectly corrected is LoCA (longitudinal chromatic aberrations), which show up as fringing before or after the plane of focus. You’ll definitely see some of that fringing.

I did see it in real world shots, too, particularly in the places where I have learned to look for it. One example is with fringing around the letters of the lens designation on the Pentax.

You’ll see a bit of a greenish fringe around specular highlights, too.

Lateral chromatic aberrations near the edge of the frame are essentially non-existent, so that won’t be a problem.

Unlike more highly correct lenses, you will have some issues with color fringing, though that can have a positive effect that we’ll highlight in a bit.

If we move on to vignette and distortion we find a tiny amount of barrel distortion which required just a +1 to correct for. It is both minimal and linear, so it corrects fine but would also be fine uncorrected in almost every application.

Vignette is another story. I had to add a +88 to correct for the vignette. That’s not as bad as the 40mm F2, but it isn’t great! The correction profile is able to make a clean correction of the vignette, though I will note any lens with high levels of vignette will result in some less clean corners when shooting at higher ISO values. Even shooting at ISO 3200 you’ll find that the amount of noise in the center of the frame is significantly less than in the corners of the frame because the corners have had to receive nearly four stops of additional correction.

We’ll move on to inspecting our test chart.  This test has been done on a 45MP Nikon Z8 sensor.  I use a high end tripod and two second camera delay to ensure vibration doesn’t affect images.  Here’s a look at the test chart that we will examine at high magnification:

If we take a look at crops (at roughly 200%) at F2 from the center, mid-frame, and lower right corner, we find that center performance is good, but the mid-frame and the corners are definitely much weaker.

The chart results look good but not necessarily great. You can see that the detail extends into the corners, but contrast looks weak there.

To me, however, real world results look better than what the chart shows. In this shot, for example, you can see that there is good 3D pop to the subject.

If we zoom in to the pixel level, we see that the subject looks nice and crisp.

The contrast from the lens will depend on the situation. In a F1.4 shot like the one below, there is a lot of subject on either side of the plane of focus, and the near monochrome subject allows more fringing (and lower contrast to show.

This shot is more two dimensional, with less out of the main plane of focus, and I think that contrast and detail looks better here, while the fringing is much less evident.

Here’s a distant shot at F1.4, and I actually find contrast and detail quite good.

Bottom line is that at close focus distances and shallower depth of field, you will get softer results with more fringing. Move even a bit further out and contrast and detail will improve.

As has been my theme in this review, I think that wide open sharpness is enough. I have tested and even own sharper 50mm lenses, but I’m finding that in most situations that I have the 50mm F1.4Z, I’ve been content with its output.

Stopping down to F2 will produce an obvious improvement in contrast in both the center:

…and more noticeably in the corners.

Contributing to that improved contrast is a reduction of the color fringing. It isn’t entirely gone by F2, but you can see in this side by side comparison that there is significantly less fringing both in the letters that occupy the plane of focus but also on the edges of the out of focus SLR in the background.

There’s a very mild improvement by F2.8, with a slightly larger improvement coming at F4.

Even at F2.8, however, I found real world results to be pretty fantastic. There’s plenty of detail and contrast in this F2.8 shot, and that’s true even in the crop from near the corner.

By typical landscape apertures of F5.6 and F8, you can expect nicely detail and contrast all across the frame.

Expect the typical diffraction pattern on high resolution cameras where the image is a little softer by F11 and softer still at the minimum aperture of F16, though frankly I’ve seen much worse when it comes to diffraction.

I noted a tradeoff for some uncorrected fringing, and that comes in the form of a softer background. Often lenses with a little less contrast and a little more fringing are able to produce softer, more pleasing backgrounds.

That’s certainly true at close focus distances, as the 50mm F1.4Z can produce very nicely blurred backgrounds.

I often use this lock for test shots because it’s an easily repeatable subject, and while the falloff isn’t exceptionally creamy here, overall the shot looks good.

The weakness for the rendering, in my opinion, is the transition zone between focus and complete defocus, as it can get a little “nervous” due to a bit too much outlining.

You can see a bit of this in the grasses in the lower left of this portrait shot, though in general I think that the bokeh quality is really pretty good from this lens.

When I consider that it is priced in a range often dominated by cheaper, third party lenses and also by F1.8 lenses, I feel like the quality of the rendering really stands up pretty well.

Colors also look nice, with good punch but some balance as well.

I find that some of Nikon’s color profiles are a little too biased towards magentas, but if I stick to Adobe’s color profiles I was generally happy with skintones.

Flare resistance seemed generally pretty good. I did shoot a number of strongly backlit portraits, and one of the lenses that I was testing during the portrait session flared very badly to the place where I didn’t consider the results overly usable. The Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 held up pretty well by comparison in those conditions, however, giving just a bit of a ghosting pattern at F1.4 but generally pretty flawless when stopped down a bit.

The sunstar/sunburst effect also looked pretty decent in the shots above with a smaller aperture (F5.6 range).

One thing that you shouldn’t buy the lens for is to shoot stars. Coma smear in the corners is pretty bad, with the star points looking like pterodactyls surrounded by a blue glow.

The effect is reduced but not eliminated by F2.

So not a flawless optical performance, but the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 certainly bests the average 50mm F1.4 lens from the DSLR era by a good margin. I wouldn’t call any of its flaws fatal, and I generally liked the images I was able to produce with the lens. It feels like an easy lens to reach for those family moments you want to capture, for walking around when you feel like shooting 50mm, and for portrait work in this range. You can check out more photos by visiting the image gallery here.

Conclusion

In the mirrorless space the typical 50mm F1.4 has skewed up market, with Sony’s G Master costing $1300, Canon’s new RF 50mm F1.4L at $1400, and even Sigma’s 50mm F1.4 DN (not yet available for Z mount) pricing in at $850. All of these lenses have nicer builds, more features, more sophisticated autofocus systems, and superior optics, but they are also all bigger and heavier than the Nikkor lens. I suspect that the Nikkor 50mm F1.4Z will be “enough” for a lot of satisfied users.

I think that what has pleased me the most about this lens is how rare it is in the mirrorless space. We have mostly had to choose between plastic fantastic F1.8 lenses and then ultra expensive premium options, with very few lenses like this in between. Yes, a lens like this may lack some of the bells and whistles, but neither does it feel crippled. It is perfectly functional in the field, has quick enough autofocus to keep up with action, and is good enough optically that I never hesitated to shoot with it wide open.

There will almost certainly be some third party competitors for this lens that will arrive in the future. I suspect Sigma, Tamron, and Viltrox, among others, will invade the Z mount space more completely in the future, but I also think there will always be a place for the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4. It’s a reasonably priced first party lens that delivers a fast maximum aperture at a very popular focal length for a reasonable price. Kudos to Nikon for making what I think will be a populist kind of lens – a lens for the people.

Pros:

  • Great price to performance ratio for a first party lens
  • Smaller and light than competing 50mm F1.4 lenses
  • Weather sealed
  • Has control ring
  • Autofocus is fast enough to keep up with action
  • Video AF works pretty well
  • Good magnification
  • Good wide open sharpness
  • Excellent contrast when stopped down a bit
  • Bokeh is nice
  • Flare resistance is solid
  • Real world images look good
  • Consistent sharpness across the frame when stopped down
  • Low distortion

Cons:

  • Some color fringing
  • Very heavy vignette
  • Poor coma performance

_________________________________________________________________________

GEAR USED:

Purchase the Nikkor Z 50mm F1.4 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Keywords: Nikkor, 50mm, F1.4, Nikkor 50mm F1.4, Nikon 50mm F1.4, f/1.4, Nikon, Nikon Z8, Z, Z-mount, Z8, Review, mirrorless, Full Frame, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 45MP, #letthelightin, #DA, #NIKON, #Z8, #NIKONZ8

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TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 “Swirl” Gallery

Dustin Abbott

November 14th, 2024

I’ve had a long lasting love affair with vintage glass. Even though my contemporary lens collection features dozens of great lenses, I still have 6 or 7 vintage lenses that I enjoy taking out periodically. Some of those include classic SMC Takumars and Zeiss lenses, while others include some of the cult classics like Soviet Helios and Jupiter lenses. The latter category I have prized because of their unique “swirly” bokeh. These lenses are often optical designs derived from Carl Zeiss, and almost all of the lenses I own are based on the old M42 screw mount. Many of these lenses have gotten some revival in the mirrorless era, as they can be fairly easily adapter and mirrorless cameras have manual focus aids that make using them easier than ever. There is a subset of photographers who are turned off by modern lenses that are perfectly corrected, and they are more interested in lenses with some individuality and character.

I’ve wasted a lot of time down the eBay rabbit hole trying to find some of these classic gems at a reasonable price, but some of them are surprisingly expensive. The Zeiss Biotar 75mm F1.5 can cost thousands of dollars. But what if you could get a modern version of that exact lens for under $300? If that sounds intriguing, join me in exploring the unique TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 in either my video review or my text review…or just enjoy the photos in the gallery.

Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px | X

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks to TTArtisan for sending me a review loaner of this lens.   As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the Sony a7RV along with the Sony Alpha 1 that serve as my benchmark cameras for Sony lenses.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

TTArtisan has chosen one of the three different housing designs this optical formula had in the past, which is often called the “Fat Version” that was sold from 1952-1967. The end result is a stubby lens that reminds me a lot of the recent Voigtländer Nokton 75mm F1.5 that I reviewed earlier this year. It has the scalloped focus ring, all metal body, and anodized finish of that lens.

This is built around that same old M42 mount, so that comes with both blessings and curses that we will explore. The upside is that the M42 is easily adaptable to a wide variety of lens mounts, up to and including Fuji’s medium format GF mount. I used to mostly use M42 glass on Canon EF mount, where the adapters would be quite slim, but because of the different flange distance on mirrorless cameras, you have to use much thicker adapters to get the optics where they need to be. You can see that the Vello adapter I used here is pretty chunky, which adds a fair bit of length to the overall package, unfortunately.

Initially the lens didn’t lineup quite right for me, but fortunately they have thought about that, as you can mount the lens to your camera, and then use the included allen key to loosen three screws near the lens mount, which will then allow you to rotate the lens to the proper position before tightening it back down.

It’s a good solution to a common problem with lenses like this. There’s no question this is an interesting lens with a lot of character. See that character in the images below.

Images of the TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 “Swirl”

Images taken with theTTArtisan 75mm F1.5 “Swirl”

_________________________________________________________________________

GEAR USED:

Purchase the TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 Swirl @ Vitopal | B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

___________________________________________________________________

Purchase the Sony a7RV @ B&H Photo | AdoramaAmazon | Camera Canada | Sony Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

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Purchase the Sony a7IV @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Sony Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

_________________________________________________________________

Want to support this channel? Use these affiliate links to shop at: B&H Photo | Amazon | Adorama | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay | Make a donation via Paypal

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Keywords: TTArtisan, 75mm, F1.5, swirl, swirly bokeh, TTArtisan 75mm review, M42, Sony Alpha 1, Sony a7RV, Fuji, Nikon, Canon, Review, mirrorless, Full Frame, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 61MP, #letthelightin, #DA, #Alpha1, #A7RV

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 “Swirl” Lens Review

Dustin Abbott

November 14th, 2024

I’ve had a long lasting love affair with vintage glass. Even though my contemporary lens collection features dozens of great lenses, I still have 6 or 7 vintage lenses that I enjoy taking out periodically. Some of those include classic SMC Takumars and Zeiss lenses, while others include some of the cult classics like Soviet Helios and Jupiter lenses. The latter category I have prized because of their unique “swirly” bokeh. These lenses are often optical designs derived from Carl Zeiss, and almost all of the lenses I own are based on the old M42 screw mount. Many of these lenses have gotten some revival in the mirrorless era, as they can be fairly easily adapter and mirrorless cameras have manual focus aids that make using them easier than ever. There is a subset of photographers who are turned off by modern lenses that are perfectly corrected, and they are more interested in lenses with some individuality and character.

I’ve wasted a lot of time down the eBay rabbit hole trying to find some of these classic gems at a reasonable price, but some of them are surprisingly expensive. The Zeiss Biotar 75mm F1.5 can cost thousands of dollars. But what if you could get a modern version of that exact lens for under $300? If that sounds intriguing, join me in exploring the unique TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 in either my video review or the text review that continues below.

Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px | X

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks to TTArtisan for sending me a review loaner of this lens.   As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the Sony a7RV along with the Sony Alpha 1 that serve as my benchmark cameras for Sony lenses.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

TTArtisan has chosen one of the three different housing designs this optical formula had in the past, which is often called the “Fat Version” that was sold from 1952-1967. The end result is a stubby lens that reminds me a lot of the recent Voigtländer Nokton 75mm F1.5 that I reviewed earlier this year. It has the scalloped focus ring, all metal body, and anodized finish of that lens.

This is built around that same old M42 mount, so that comes with both blessings and curses that we will explore. The upside is that the M42 is easily adaptable to a wide variety of lens mounts, up to and including Fuji’s medium format GF mount. I used to mostly use M42 glass on Canon EF mount, where the adapters would be quite slim, but because of the different flange distance on mirrorless cameras, you have to use much thicker adapters to get the optics where they need to be. You can see that the Vello adapter I used here is pretty chunky, which adds a fair bit of length to the overall package, unfortunately.

Initially the lens didn’t lineup quite right for me, but fortunately they have thought about that, as you can mount the lens to your camera, and then use the included allen key to loosen three screws near the lens mount, which will then allow you to rotate the lens to the proper position before tightening it back down.

It’s a good solution to a common problem with lenses like this. Let’s take a closer look at the performance.

Build and Handling

The TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 Swirl has classic good looks. The lens has some heft to it, weighing in at roughly 570g (20oz). I measure the lens at roughly 73mm in diameter and about 72mm in overall length. The lens will grow an additional 10mm in length when focused to the minimum focus distance (externally focusing).

We have a common 58mm front filter thread on the front of the lens.

There are two rings on the lens. The first is the manual focus ring, which is the widest part of the lens and has easy to grip metal knurls.

There are etched distance markings with metric in white and Imperial distances in yellow. The lens barrel before the ring has hyperfocal markings (from F1.5 to F16) on it.

The second ring is near the front, and it a manual aperture ring. This is a clicked aperture with detents at the half stop position from F1.5 to F5.6, then only full stops. There are markings for each full aperture (starting at F1.5, then F2, F2.8, etc…). The aperture ring moves with nice precision.

There are thirteen rounded aperture blades inside that make for a pretty sexy looking aperture.

Minimum focus distance is 75cm, and the resulting magnification is not particularly high (probably in the 0.10x range).

There is no weather sealing, no electronics, or anything particularly modern. You’ll need to manually set the focal length for in-camera stabilization if your camera is so equipped. You will also miss a lot of EXIF data (only the camera based information like shutter speed and ISO will be recorded, though if you are shooting on Nikon you’ll have a chance to manually input some of that information).

The front cap is an old school threaded variety.

All told this is a nicely made lens that focuses nicely, has good aperture control, and costs a whole lot less than grabbing one of the classic lenses it emulates.

Manual Focus on Sony (Alpha 1 and a7RV)

When I first moved to Sony bodies, I found them a wonderful platform for manual focus. They had IBIS (in-body-image-stabilization), good viewfinders, and much more manual focus aids than the DSLRs that I was accustomed to. Since that point, however, essentially the whole industry has shifted to mirrorless cameras, so those advantages aren’t as distinct anymore. But I still found the TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 Swirl an easy lens to use on my Sony bodies and found that I could easily nail focus despite the large maximum aperture and narrow depth of field. Here’s a few reasons why:

  1. EVF. An electronic viewfinder has a lot of advantages over an optical viewfinder when it comes to using manual focus lenses. You have the ability to see overlays, magnify the image to confirm focus, and as a byproduct I really didn’t have any misses. I don’t always love Sony’s viewfinders due to them going a bit weird when you half-depress the shutter for stabilization, but focus is still really easy due to the EVF.
  2. Effective IBIS (Steadyshot Inside). Sony was a pioneer with IBIS, and while other companies have caught up and even surpassed them, having the ability to stabilize the viewfinder or LCD screen image while focusing makes manual focus much easier. You can hold that image still while you pull focus to the perfect point.
  3. Useful manual focus aids. Sony’s options include the ability to have a color overlay to help to show what is in focus, though I will note that this works better when shooting at larger apertures and at close to medium distances. At longer distances where more is in focus, the color overlays can just become distracting, and just because a lot is in focus doesn’t yet mean that focus is where you want it. I prefer the secondary method, which is to enable an automatic magnification of the focus area whenever you turn the focus ring. This allows you to visually confirm focus is where you want it, and it is pretty foolproof. Sony’s system will both automatically magnify the focus area when you turn the focus ring and then also switch back to the full view when you go to depress the shutter so that you can ensure your composition is still what you want.

I own four different brands of camera (Sony, Canon, Nikon, and Fujifilm), and I can safely say that manually focusing on each of them is really quite easy…even when focusing on very shallow depths of field.

It is worth noting that the beautiful focus ring also makes doing focus pulls during video a treat. There’s nothing quite like a well calibrated true manual focus ring for smooth pulls.

TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 Swirl Image Quality Breakdown

This “swirl” lens has an extremely simple optical design of 6 elements in 4 groups. Two of those are HR elements.

Lenses like this are all about the rendering, the “look”, and not about their technical proficiency. I haven’t seen an MTF chart that looks this bad in a long, long time!

There’s a huge disparity between the wide open performance and the stopped down performance. The corners are particularly weak, but that’s essentially part of the design. The “swirl” that is so desirable in these lenses actually comes from uncorrected aberrations in the sagittal plane. In fact, most of the unique and desirable qualities we like about vintage glass come from optical defects, which is why modern lenses often feel fairly “clinical” by comparison. There’s a lot of defects in this image…but that’s a big part of the charm!

On the technical side of things, there is relatively little distortion and vignette.

There is a very small amount of barrel distortion (+3 to correct) and under 2 stops of vignette (+45 to correct). Neither metric is bad at all, which is good, as obviously lenses without electronics like this won’t get any kind of in camera corrections.

Not so good, however, is color fringing, particularly in high contrast situations. This is not a lens that will always hold up well when there are brighter lights in the frame. You’ll also see some color fringing before and after the plan of focus, and a general spherical aberrations that softens contrast (what we often euphemistically call “dreamy rendering”).

Other shots in lower contrast situations look better.

Stopping down a bit helps with the fringing in most situations.

Control of Lateral CA was pretty much perfect. The transition from black to white is flawless near the edge of the frame.

We can clearly guess that at large apertures, this is not going to be a very sharp lens, particularly when we consider that I am testing on a much higher resolution point than any classic lens had to deal with. All of my chart tests are shot on the 61MP Sony a7RV sensor with crops shown at roughly 200% magnification. Here’s a look at the test chart, which looks a bit like it is warping due to the unique optical signature of this lens.

And here are the F1.5 crops from across the frame:

There’s actually a decent amount of detail in the center of the frame, but you can also see that some fringing is reducing contrast, giving the textures a bit of a “bloom” to them. The midframe and corners are softer still, but it is mostly due to having very low contrast.

That’s all part of the unique look of the lens, however.

I did note some of the typical quirks with metering as I stopped the lens down for my test chart results. I found that I needed to bias results sometimes to keep metering accurate. As I got into the smaller apertures, it was not unusual to get underexposed results like below if I didn’t.

Stopping down to F2 will increase contrast a bit and eliminate a lot of the fringing. You can see that the whole image looks cleaner and brighter.

If we look in the center of the frame, we can see that the resolution and contrast have picked up considerably. It’s like a whole new lens.

The corners are a different story, however, as, while they are brighter, then look like they are in a fog and the sun is just starting to come out a bit!

Corners never get pin sharp, though they are pretty decent by F5.6:

Landscape apertures of F4-F8 look pretty good other than the extreme edges of the frame.

As expected on a high resolution body, diffraction will hit after F8, softening the image a bit at F11 and more so at F16, which is minimum aperture.

So sharpness and contrast will vary dependent on the aperture you choose, which does give you some flexibility with the kinds of images that you can create with the lens.

But if you are buying this lens for sharpness, you’ve missed the point. This is a lens that is more about what’s out of focus than what is in focus. So let’s talk about that bokeh. First of all, the lens is very capable of producing soft, creamy bokeh. Here’s a look at a scene where I’ve pulled focus back to minimum so everything is out of focus.

There’s actually a specific difference where the swirl is most pronounced. That will be shooting at F1.5 and a medium distance of about two meters.

If I focus further, we can see that there is relatively little swirl effect, so it really only works with the background, not the foreground.

On a practical level, this effect works best when there is something on either side of the subject to serve as the bokeh subject. Putting your subject near the center of the frame works better than composing in the rule of thirds zone, as the plane of sharpness is mostly located in the center of the frame and you can get better subject separation. I put my subject in the rule of thirds for this shot, but it doesn’t work as well.

The effect will be more pronounced with a larger sensor. Medium format users will see the biggest effect, while APS-C cameras will crop off a lot of the swirly look. You can obviously get a fair bit of the effect on full frame as well (as shown in this review).

Stop down a bit, and you can get a more conventional image, like this:

Likewise for landscape shots. Shooting at F5.6 or F8 makes for a pretty conventional looking image.

Flare results are going to be situational. In certain positions there’s a general veiling over a shot, like this:

At wider apertures you may see a ghosting artifact like this:

At its best, you can get some fairly artistic effects that really go along with the vintage charm of the lens.

I would say the results are generally better than some of the vintage glass I’ve used, but not as corrected as a modern lens with effective coatings.

I would say that color is good in most situations. Here, for example, it looks great:

It’s also great here.

But if you are shooting high contrast scenes at large apertures, the general lack of contrast can make colors look a little dull.

I would say that this is both part of the charm and the liability of a lens with vintage sensibilities. Use the TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 “Swirl” to its strengths, and you can get much more interesting images than a conventional lens. Use it poorly, and you’ll just get low contrast, mushy images that neither you or your audience will enjoy. You can see more images by visiting the lens image gallery here.

Conclusion

I’ve definitely intentionally sought out some of the “swirl” lenses myself in the past. It is great to see TTArtisan bringing back some of these fun and interesting optics to a modern audience in the TTArtisan 75mm F1.5.

This lens has to be evaluated with a different set of criteria than my typical lens review, because by definition this swirl lens in embracing certain optical flaws that make for visually interesting results.

Yes, you can get conventional looking results with this lens at small apertures, but that’s not really the reason to buy it.

The real reason to buy this lens is to fully embrace the swirly flaws and to shoot the kinds of images you’ll never get with almost all modern lenses. And with a price tag of just $270 USD, you don’t have to break the bank to get it. Just remember to pick up a cheap adapter for your preferred mount if you don’t already have one!

Pros:

  • The swirl!
  • Nicely built lens
  • Well executed focus and aperture rings
  • Low distortion
  • Bright aperture
  • Good sharpness when stopped down
  • Nice color in some situations
  • Unique and special rendering
  • Much cheaper than trying to find a vintage lens that does the same thing

Cons:

  • Low contrast and some fringing
  • Some flare issues
  • Corners never really get super sharp
  • Requires an adapter for any modern camera

_________________________________________________________________________

GEAR USED:

Purchase the TTArtisan 75mm F1.5 Swirl @ Vitopal | B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

___________________________________________________________________

Purchase the Sony a7RV @ B&H Photo | AdoramaAmazon | Camera Canada | Sony Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

__________________________________________________________________

Purchase the Sony a7IV @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Sony Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

_________________________________________________________________

Want to support this channel? Use these affiliate links to shop at: B&H Photo | Amazon | Adorama | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay | Make a donation via Paypal

Buy DA Merchandise https://bit.ly/TWIMerch

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Keywords: TTArtisan, 75mm, F1.5, swirl, swirly bokeh, TTArtisan 75mm review, M42, Sony Alpha 1, Sony a7RV, Fuji, Nikon, Canon, Review, mirrorless, Full Frame, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 61MP, #letthelightin, #DA, #Alpha1, #A7RV

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM Gallery

Dustin Abbott

October 31st, 2024

When I began to wholesale move to mirrorless, there were certain beloved lenses that were very slow to leave my kit. I had a whole kit of Canon EF lenses, and initially I just adapted those lenses to Canon RF and even Sony. Certain third party lenses slowly began to leave my kit to be replaced with other lenses, but I had a core kit of L series lenses that I found it hard to say goodbye to. Lenses like the 24-104mm F4L IS, 100mm F2.8L Macro, the 70-300L, the 100-400L II, and the 35mm F1.4L II. One by one those lenses slowly got sold off over the years. The last of them remained until 2023, and that was the Canon EF 35mm F1.4L II. I loved that lens. Built like a tank, sharp as a tack, and with utterly reliable results that I consistently loved. It was hard for me to say goodbye to that lens, largely because there really wasn’t an RF replacement for it.

Pretty much everyone wondered when Canon would come up with a replacement, as the RF 50mm F1.2L was one of the early RF L series lenses, coming to market in 2018. I reviewed it in 2019 after finally taking the plunge and buying the extremely flawed Canon EOS R body. That means that six years have gone by without a pro series 35mm lens on RF mount, with the only 35mm prime being the RF 35mm F1.8 IS. But the wait is over, and the Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM has finally arrived. Is this the one you’ve been waiting for? You can get my findings in the video review here, or by reading the text review here.

Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px | X

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks to Camera Canada for sending me a review copy of this lens.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. *I have done this review on my Canon EOS R5 camera.

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Canon’s earliest full frame mirrorless cameras (the EOS R and the EOS RP) were severely flawed cameras, so my early frustration in doing RF mount reviews is that it seemed that a number of the early RF lenses were so good but the cameras were so frustrating. Ironically (at least for me), the tables have turned, as Canon has been producing a number of cameras I really like (I’ve loved owning my EOS R5 for years, and have given very positive reviews to a number of other cameras from the budget R8 to the premium R3.) But I’ve found Canon’s lens design over the past few years very frustrating, as it seems like every lens I review comes with a major caveat. The RF 100mm Macro has weird focus shift issues. The RF 14-35mm F4L IS has epic levels of distortion. The 70-200mm models can’t be used with teleconverters. The RF 100-500L can only use teleconverters at 300mm+. The RF 85mm F2 Macro IS has clunky autofocus. A number of the zooms have very slow apertures. It’s a little weird, and unfortunately that trend continues with the 35L VCM lens, as while it has great autofocus and is very sharp, there are some questionable choices in the implementation of features and optical design. Sigh.

In many ways the 35L VCM seems to be a lens designed with video in mind more than stills. There is one notable new feature that only works for video unless you have a Canon camera made in 2024 or newer. But on the other hand, Canon also knows how to make a optically strong 35mm lens, and the 35L VCM actually comes to market at a $300 discount relative to the 35L II.

While aspects of the lens are a little perplexing, the simple reality is that it is easy to make beautiful images with the Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM. Check out some examples in the galleries below.

Build and Handling

Photos taken with the Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM

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Keywords: Canon, Canon RF 35mm, F1.4, F1.4L, VCM, Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM, Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM Review, Canon EOS R8, EOS, R, R5, Review, R8, RF, mirrorless, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 45MP, 24MP, Canon, #letthelightin, #DA, #EOSR8, #EOSR5, #RF35L, #Canon

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Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM Review

Dustin Abbott

October 31st, 2024

When I began to wholesale move to mirrorless, there were certain beloved lenses that were very slow to leave my kit. I had a whole kit of Canon EF lenses, and initially I just adapted those lenses to Canon RF and even Sony. Certain third party lenses slowly began to leave my kit to be replaced with other lenses, but I had a core kit of L series lenses that I found it hard to say goodbye to. Lenses like the 24-104mm F4L IS, 100mm F2.8L Macro, the 70-300L, the 100-400L II, and the 35mm F1.4L II. One by one those lenses slowly got sold off over the years. The last of them remained until 2023, and that was the Canon EF 35mm F1.4L II. I loved that lens. Built like a tank, sharp as a tack, and with utterly reliable results that I consistently loved. It was hard for me to say goodbye to that lens, largely because there really wasn’t an RF replacement for it.

Pretty much everyone wondered when Canon would come up with a replacement, as the RF 50mm F1.2L was one of the early RF L series lenses, coming to market in 2018. I reviewed it in 2019 after finally taking the plunge and buying the extremely flawed Canon EOS R body. That means that six years have gone by without a pro series 35mm lens on RF mount, with the only 35mm prime being the RF 35mm F1.8 IS. But the wait is over, and the Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM has finally arrived. Is this the one you’ve been waiting for? You can get my findings in the video review here, or keep reading.

Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px | X

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks to Camera Canada for sending me a review copy of this lens.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. *I have done this review on my Canon EOS R5 camera.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Canon’s earliest full frame mirrorless cameras (the EOS R and the EOS RP) were severely flawed cameras, so my early frustration in doing RF mount reviews is that it seemed that a number of the early RF lenses were so good but the cameras were so frustrating. Ironically (at least for me), the tables have turned, as Canon has been producing a number of cameras I really like (I’ve loved owning my EOS R5 for years, and have given very positive reviews to a number of other cameras from the budget R8 to the premium R3.) But I’ve found Canon’s lens design over the past few years very frustrating, as it seems like every lens I review comes with a major caveat. The RF 100mm Macro has weird focus shift issues. The RF 14-35mm F4L IS has epic levels of distortion. The 70-200mm models can’t be used with teleconverters. The RF 100-500L can only use teleconverters at 300mm+. The RF 85mm F2 Macro IS has clunky autofocus. A number of the zooms have very slow apertures. It’s a little weird, and unfortunately that trend continues with the 35L VCM lens, as while it has great autofocus and is very sharp, there are some questionable choices in the implementation of features and optical design. Sigh.

In many ways the 35L VCM seems to be a lens designed with video in mind more than stills. There is one notable new feature that only works for video unless you have a Canon camera made in 2024 or newer. But on the other hand, Canon also knows how to make a optically strong 35mm lens, and the 35L VCM actually comes to market at a $300 discount relative to the 35L II.

That makes this particular lens review a little complicated, but I’ll do my best to highlight both strengths and weaknesses with objectivity.

Build and Handling

One of the key, real world improvements of the RF 35L VCM lens is that they have managed to make it much lighter. The EF 35mm F1.4L II weighed a hefty 760g (1.67lbs), but the 35L VCM tips the scales at a leaner 555g (1.2lb). That’s a 31% difference in weight, which is pretty significant (particularly for wedding photographers who heft their cameras for 10+ hours!) That still doesn’t quite get it to the level of my current favorite 35mm lens, which is the Sony FE 35mm F1.4 GM. The GM lens is a svelte 524g, and is also a bit smaller.

The 35L VCM is 3″ in diameter x 3.9″ in length, or 76.5 x 99.3 mm. That’s about 6mm shorter than the EF lens, but about 3.5mm longer than the GM lens. The front filter threads are now 67mm rather than 72mm, a change I appreciate as lenses with 67mm filter threads are far more common.

Lens Rentals did a teardown of the 35mm F1.4L II and found that it was one of the most impressively engineered lenses they had seen at that point. To my knowledge a similar project has not been undertaken with the new VCM lens, but I suspect it too has an excellent level of build. That starts with an extremely robust level of weather sealing.

I count at least 12 seal points in that design, and there is also fluorine coatings on both the front and rear elements to help to protect those elements and make them easier to clean. The rear gasket is nice and thick, which always feels a bit reassuring to me.

I’ve seen some angst over some “clunking” in the lens if you tip it up and down, but this is nothing to worry about. I’ve reviewed (and owned) a number of lenses with floating elements, and they actually tend to be employed in higher end, more expensive lenses because this design isn’t cheap. Floating elements allow for better performance, particularly up close. You’ll find that the “clunking” or sense of movement in the lens immediately goes away when the lens is attached to the camera and the camera is powered on. Those elements become energized and ready for use. This is nothing new, by the way, as floating elements were first used in the late 1960s and have already been used in the acclaimed RF 50mm F1.2L and 85mm F1.2L lenses amongst other EF and RF lenses. I feel like people may be jumping on this with the 35L VCM largely because there’s somewhat of a negative vibe surrounding the lens.

I’m less sanguine about Canon’s odd implementation of the aperture ring. This is, (I believe), the first Canon RF prime lens to receive an aperture ring (and the second lens after the 24-105mm F2.8L IS to have one). Canon says that this is “…the latest L-Series hybrid lens featuring an iris ring for manual iris control during video capture.” Note that final phrase? “During video capture”. That’s right – for most Canon cameras, the aperture ring will only work during video mode, not stills. But, to further complicate things, a Canon rep has indicated that the aperture ring will work for stills on the EOS R5 Mark II and EOS R1 and, in theory, other future cameras. I actually find this a little frustrating, as it feels like Canon is not being strategic but rather making things up as they go. It feels a lot like their early explanations for why in-body-image-stabilization was unnecessary, and lens based stabilization was so much better. But then they switched that up and started putting IBIS in their second generation cameras. You’ll note that this is not the RF 35mm F1.4L IS!

Perhaps the aperture ring behavior can be fixed via future firmware updates, but as things stand on my Canon EOS R5, the aperture ring does nothing when capturing stills. You can turn it all day and it does nothing. In video mode it works as a declicked aperture for doing aperture racking, and, to its credit, input lag is very low, allowing you to achieve near real-time changes from what you do on the aperture ring to what happens to the aperture iris itself.

There is an iris lock that can be employed to either keep you in the manual aperture ring or in the Automatic mode beyond. Even this implementation is a bit odd, as the spring loaded lock design requires you to hold it in place while you rotate the ring either into or out of the manual aperture section. It’s actually not a very easy one handed operation.

The aperture iris itself has 11 rounded blades (like the Sony GM lens) and maintains a nicely circular shape.

Further confusing the issue is my typical setup for the Canon control ring (located at the front of the lens on the 35L VCM), as I typically assign manual aperture control to the control ring. So, when shooting stills, the control ring is my aperture ring. But when I switch to video, the camera defaults to the aperture ring on the 35L VCM, and suddenly the control ring no longer controls the aperture. That just creates muscle memory confusion, as you are very likely to reach for the wrong ring. The only way to avoid having to switch back and forth is to lock the aperture ring in A (automatic) mode, and then the control ring will continue to function to control aperture in video mode. But then, of course, you are basically pretending like the manual aperture ring isn’t there at all! Put simply, I’ve never seen such a confused implementation of an aperture ring in all of my years of lens review, and I’m left scratching my head as to why all of this was necessary.

The control ring itself remains a strong Canon RF feature, and this multipurpose ring can be programmed to a variety of different functions from the within the camera body. It has the typical diamond pattern grip on it that gives it a different tactile feel from other rings.

The manual focus ring is the largest of the three rings, and occupies a good portion of the central housing. An AF | MF switch is to the right of the ring and allows you direct control between the two options. The manual focus ring itself moves smoothly, though I do feel like there is a bit of input lag as it feels focus is just a split-second behind my movements on the focus ring. Focus input is non-linear, which means that it will be speed dependent. Turn the ring fast, and focus will move further; move it slowly, and focus will take a larger rotation to travel the same distance.

The 35L VCM does have a custom/programmable button that can be assigned a value from within the camera. There’s a broad range of functions you can choose from.

While my loaner copy did not include it (non retail packaging), the lens does ship with a attachable rear filter holder. This is for very thin gel filters only, and probably won’t get much use for most people.

The petal-shaped lens hood itself is fairly deep and robust. It has inner ribs and a locking button to ensure it doesn’t get inadvertently knocked. You can see from the photo below that it is probably 40% longer than the hood that comes with the Sony GM lens.

A typical L-series leatherette pouch is included. I prefer the nylon padded cases included with some other brands lenses, as I don’t feel like the L-series pouches have much protection value for transport.

The build quality feels pretty much like a standard L-series lens. There’s an engineered plastic housing over metal internal parts. It has a matt finish with fine flocking with a few platinum colored accent rings that marry nicely to the similar color on the lens mount of the camera, (and, of course that all important red ring near the front!). My experience is that this finish is resistant to scratches and marks. It feels tough and durable, and I’ve personally had Canon L-series lenses that I’ve used for a decade without issues.

As noted earlier, there is no lens-based stabilization (an area of differentiation from the earlier RF 35mm F1.8 IS), and you’ll have to rely on camera based stabilization if your camera is so equipped.

The minimum focus distance is 28cm (11″), and the maximum magnification figure is 0.18x. This is, unfortunately, a regression from the EF 35mm F1.4L II, which could achieve a 0.21x magnification, and is even further behind the Sony 35mm F1.4 GM, which can achieve a 0.26x magnification. Here’s what the magnification looks like:

The figure isn’t impressive, but fortunately the up close performance is good. You can produce some useful and interesting close shots.

Other than a few odd design decisions, the Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM is about what I would expect, namely, a well built, highly functional lens. I appreciate the weight savings and the additional features, though I do wish that Canon could do a better job of implementing some of their new design elements.

Autofocus

Canon has debuted a new focus system here interestingly at the same time as Viltrox. Both have released a new VCM (Voice Coil Motor) focus system, which is similar to what Tamron calls VXD. In the case of Canon, this new VCM is also paired with a Nano USM motor at the front of the focus group to allow for very quick, very quiet autofocus.

Canon’s earlier L series primes like the 50mm F1.2L and 85mm F1.2L actually employed older Ring USM type focus systems. This was a DSLR era technology that works fine for stills but doesn’t work as well for video, and Canon is clearly all in on this being a “hybrid” lens that focuses equally if not more on the video side of things. No complaints from me, however, as this hybrid focus system works equally well for stills and video. It’s much closer to what Sony is achieving with its GM lenses than what the early Canon RF lenses were like.

That puts some action photography on the table. The lens is quick enough to keep up with action, though this sequence was challenging at times due to the fact that Nala blends so well with the autumn foliage.

I had good success in lower light with eye tracking as well.

At this stage it shouldn’t be a surprise to get well focused results from a Canon L series lens during portrait settings, and, of course, that’s exactly what I found. Even using the Canon Connect app to remotely trigger portrait shots, I could see that tracking was always on the eye, and I was able to get consistently well focused results at F1.4:

I get asked sometimes why I use myself as a subject in some of reviews for portraits. I can say with confidence that it isn’t vanity, but rather something more practical. I use myself for a portrait subject at times because A) I’m available and B) I’m free. I’m not actually a wedding or portrait photographer these days (I will do both of those things on rare occasions, but more as a favor for friends and family), so I actually usually only do portrait sessions in the process of reviewing photography gear. I’m most interested in how the gear performs for these specific applications. In this case, I was very positive about the results I got whether my subject (myself) was facing the camera or in profile.

I also had good results in a church setting as well, with good accuracy on the speaker.

I also had no problems with focusing in a strongly backlit scene. I wanted to catch the light coming though these dried wildflowers.

In short, I had zero issues with autofocus during stills capture.

Video AF

This of course is designed to be a hybrid lens, so the autofocus performance during video is equally important. One of the great advantages of a focus system like this as compared to STM (stepping motors) is that STM motors will often show those visible steps during focus pulls. USM lens have a tendency to be jumpy and not smooth during video AF. The VCM motor is perfect, allowing for very smooth, well damped pulls that move steadily from point A to point B in a linear, consistent fashion.

There is also no sound during this transitions, just smooth performance. The only negative I can point to is that there is some focus breathing. Not as bad as the Sony 35GM, however. You may have electronic focus breathing compensation available in your Canon camera if it is a newer one, though unfortunately that technology is not in my EOS R5.

Here’s a look at a frame from one of my video clips.

My hand test (where I alternately block the lens’ view of my face with my hand and then remove it) also went well so long as I gave the lens time to make its transitions. It is not tuned to jump from one subject to another, but rather to smoothly transition from one subject to another.

When gliding along during video capture from one subject to another, I got mostly smooth results with logical transitions. All in all, focus is solid here. That’s a definite strength for the lens.

Image Quality Breakdown

The RF 35L VCM is a somewhat surprising lens optically in a few ways. The EF 35mm F1.4L II had some buzz in that Canon debuted a completely new type of glass element in it. I said this in my review, “The Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L II USM’s biggest marketing buzz centered around a completely new kind of element in the optical formula which Canon calls “Blue Spectrum Refractive Optics” or BR Optics for short. This special organic material gives a greater control over reducing axial chromatic aberrations than any substance before, and is at least partially responsible for the amazing image quality.” At the time we all thought that this would almost certainly would be a part of many future optical designs, but, surprisingly, the only one that I’m aware of personally since then was the RF 85mm F1.2L. One would think that this new 35mm F1.4 would receive something similar, but the answer is surprisingly “no”.

The optical design is similar on paper (14 elements in 11 groups), but no BR Element. We do have 2 UD (Ultra-Low Dispersion) glass elements along with 2 Aspherical elements in the design. The MTF chart looks very good, but not quite as good at that for the Sony GM lens (shown second here).

Sharpness is not a problem for the 35L VCM. It is an extremely sharp lens and able to render the fine details in a way that only the best lenses do.

There is going to be plenty of sharpness for anyone, but unfortunately there is some serious controversy in other areas.

Starting with vignette and distortion. If you look at a corrected JPEG or RAW file, things don’t look too bad.

But you know something is going on behind the scenes when, in the camera, you don’t even have the option of turning lens corrections for distortion off! The image above is what I could see in the viewfinder as I lined up the test chart.

I don’t know what is going on over at Canon, but it seems like their engineers have just given up on trying to correction distortion optically. I have been shocked by how much distortion has been left in their lenses to be cleaned up by software…and that has included a number of L series lenses. If I take an uncorrected RAW into Lightroom, there is a pretty shocking amount of distortion and vignette.

That’s just weird in a 35mm lens. Sony’s 35mm F1.4 GM has almost zero distortion. The Canon EF 35mm F1.4L II had next to no distortion. This lens requires a +26 to manually correct the distortion. It also required me to nearly max out the vignette slider (+96) to get a clean end result.

That will produce radically different results in real world shots if you have corrections off. On the distortion side of things, you will definitely see a pretty wild result if corrections are turned off.

That makes this a dubious pick for interiors and architectural work.

Likewise the sheer amount of vignette is going to be noticeable as well, radically changing the “look” of images at large apertures if not corrected.

Now, to be fair, the EF 35L II also had extremely heavy vignette, though one could hope that Canon could actually get better at this over the past nine years.

But what’s the big deal? As long as things look fine after correction, no harm done, right?

The problem is that all electronic corrections come with a penalty. Correcting distortion has a negative impact on sharpness (and sometimes geometry, if the distortion is complex). Correcting vignette is like recovering shadows in that it often comes at the cost of additional noise and even some color banding. You can get away with more at lower ISO values, but take at look at this shot of a guitar in lower light (ISO 6400). In the crops below I’ve sampled the evenly colored wall behind the guitar from the center and then the lower left area above where the natural shadow begins. Look at how much rougher the noise pattern is in the area that has had to receive vignette correction.

That noise is nearly four stops worse due to the vignette correction.

But it could be worse, because if we sample the area in the upper left, where there is some shadow, we can actually see color blotchiness taking place there due to the corrections.

Put simply, that wouldn’t be the case if the lens was optically corrected rather than relying on so much electronic correction. I’ve seen this far too often from Canon in the RF era. There is so much distortion that Canon is having to designed their lenses much wider than the stated focal length so that the electronic correction can try to bring it back to a semblance of normal. Look back at how much wider the uncorrected result is on my chart as compared to the profile corrected result. In camera I had the sides of the chart aligned, but that was only because the camera would only show me the corrected result. The actual image is considerably wider so that it can be the proper focal length after correction. Canon has repeatedly touted their new RF mount and how it offers up so many new design advantages and opportunities, and yet so many of their RF wide angle lenses are worse in some of these areas than anything I ever saw on EF.

Disappointing.

Things are a little better in the fringing department. Longitudinal chromatic aberrations (LoCA) occur before and after the plane of focus, and while I see some fringing, it isn’t severe.

You can see mild amounts of fringing after the plane of focus on high contrast surfaces.

There is, however, more fringing than what was present on the EF 35L II, which is again a bit disappointing.

There is only the tiniest amount of lateral chromatic aberrations (LaCA) near the edge of the frame, certainly not enough to be noticed in real world situations.

Obviously the performance in these areas is a bit underwhelming, as this is a worse lens than the EF lenses it replaces in most all of these metrics.

But all is not lost. Things are about to get better. The Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM is a very sharp lens. Here’s a look at my test chart that the crops will come from.

Here are the roughly 200% F1.4 crops from across the frame. This is on the 45MP Canon EOS R5:

That’s pretty great. Even the extreme corners look fairly good. Even landscape shots at F1.4 look crisp and high detail, and in this crop from the plane of focus you can see that the resolution is consistently good right off to the edge of the frame.

Here’s a closer distance shot that shows great detail and very nice delineation of the little frost crystals on the edge of this autumn leaf.

Obviously there is no lack of contrast and detail for portrait work even at F1.4, which is clearly going to be one of the major strengths of this lens.

35mm F1.4 lenses are fantastic for doing environmental portraits or wedding work, and I think this lens will shine for that.

Stopping down to F2 produces a bit more contrast and detail.

There’s a bit more at F2.8, and more to see at F4, which looks extremely sharp even in the corner (upper left shown here).

At landscape apertures (F4-F8), the lens is sharp from corners to corners.

Things stay that sharp through F8, with a little drop-off at F11, and more obvious softening due to diffraction at F16, which is minimum aperture.

So sharpness is great.

The EF 35mm F1.4L II was exceptional not only because it was sharp, however, but because it had great bokeh and rendering (something I also feel about the Sony FE 35mm F1.4 GM, which was the lens that allowed me to let go of the 35LII).

I’m not convinced the rendering is quite as magical here, but I do like the look of images overall. You will get the typical cat eye type deformation in the shape of specular highlights near the edge of the frame.

Stop down to F2, and the geometry looks considerably better.

Get close and the amount of background defocus is fairly strong.

Move back a little, however, and I find a little more hard edges than what I would prefer.

Some of the resulting bokeh in busier settings can look a bit “nervous” or jittery”, as shown here.

I did shoot a number of different direct comparisons with the GM lens, and I did consistently prefer the bokeh from the Sony. The bokeh is softer and creamier and with less hard edges.

I have to say I’m a little disappointed in this aspect of performance, particularly since I really did love the rendering from the EF lens.

One area where I was critical of the EF lens was when it came to flare resistance. I was surprised by the amount of ghosting I saw from such an expensive lens that was optically strong in other areas. I’m also a little surprised here, as there is definitely more ghosting and veiling present that I would have expected. The lens has Canon’s Air Sphere (ASC) Coatings, but unfortunately those don’t stop some issues at both large and small apertures.

One final area of strength is a common one for a Canon lens – great color. I liked the colors produced by the 35L VCM in the various scenarios I shot it in.

Colors are nicely saturated but without being garish. It’s nice optical glass.

All in all, this lens surprised me a bit. I went in expecting it to be great thanks to the exceptional heritage it has…and I don’t feel like this is a great lens. It is a very sharp, yes, but it actually has a surprisingly long list of optical weaknesses, particularly for a 35mm prime lens that costs $1500 USD. I do like this lens in many ways, but I’m not sure it would make my top 5 list for 35mm lenses. I feel bad because I genuinely wanted to love this lens, particularly since I feel like I’ve given a lot of Canon lenses fairly critical reviews over the past few years, and for many of the early years as a photographer and reviewer I was solely a Canon man. But my job is let the proverbial chips fall where they may. This is a unquestionably a very good lens, but it doesn’t quite feel like the lens we should have gotten. You can see more images in the gallery here.

Conclusion

The Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM is a rather complicated lens, and it has already become clear that it will be somewhat polarizing. Whereas the typical rating for first party lenses like this on most retail sites will be 4.5 out of 5 stars or higher, already the reviews for the 35L VCM are much more mixed. Even on Canon USA’s storefront, the rating for the lens is under 4 stars, which is extremely rare. As I’ve read the feedback from early adopters, I find that there are those who ardently defend it and feel like those critical of the lens are being unfair, while others are severely disappointed because they wanted to love the lens but feel like its flaws are unacceptable. The EF 35L II that I personally loved currently sits at 5 out of 5 stars on B&H Photo; the new RF 35L has 3.8 stars, with 15 5-star ratings, 9 4-star ratings, 2 3-star ratings, 3 2-star ratings, and 5 1-star ratings. As I said, polarizing.

But don’t let that discourage you, necessarily, as there are a number of people who are delighted with the lens. Yes, the argument that a lens this expensive shouldn’t need to rely on software corrections is valid, though, at the end of the day, if you’re happy with the end results, does that really matter? I personally was a little frustrated that the aperture ring doesn’t work during stills on my R5, but I’ve long had the control ring on RF lenses work as an aperture ring anyway, so I really wasn’t any further behind than I was with any other Canon lens.

Autofocus in particularly stands out to me as being exceptional in this lens. This is definitely the fastest focusing of the big L series primes that I’ve reviewed on RF thus far. Autofocus is near instantaneous in all situations, and the ability to keep up with fast action gives this lens further value for sports, reportage, and even in critical wedding situations. I don’t really understand Canon’s logic in this mirrorless phase, but I’m glad that the Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM exists nonetheless, as it fills a definite need on the platform. Let’s just hope that by the time we get to a MK II version down the road all of this ambiguity will be gone.

Pros:

  • Over 30% lighter than the EF lens
  • Great build with additional features
  • Advanced weather sealing
  • Very fast and confident autofocus
  • Exceptional video AF performance
  • Extremely sharp
  • Good contrast
  • Good color
  • Cheaper than the EF lens by a good margin

Cons:

  • A shocking amount of distortion for a 35mm lens
  • Very heavy vignette
  • Very confusion implementation of an aperture ring
  • Some flare issues
  • Bokeh and rendering isn’t at the level of the EF 35L II

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GEAR USED:

Purchase the Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Purchase the Canon EOS R8 @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Keywords: Canon, Canon RF 35mm, F1.4, F1.4L, VCM, Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM, Canon RF 35mm F1.4L VCM Review, Canon EOS R8, EOS, R, R5, Review, R8, RF, mirrorless, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 45MP, 24MP, Canon, #letthelightin, #DA, #EOSR8, #EOSR5, #RF35L, #Canon

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Nikon Z8 Gallery

Dustin Abbott

October 24th, 2024

I’ve finally done it. I’ve had people asking me to cover Nikon for more than a decade, but initially I wasn’t interested in adding the time and expense of yet another system and I couldn’t set up a reliable partner to get review loaners from. Unfortunately that is still the case, as Nikon Canada doesn’t seem to really have a loaner department and even some of my retail partners that get loaners haven’t had much. Add to this that until recently Nikon’s Z-mount platform was closed to third party development, which meant that I couldn’t get Z-mount lenses directly from third party lensmakers, either. But Nikon has eased their restrictions on third party development, and I began to get more and more requests from lensmakers to cover Nikon Z-mount lenses, so I began to seriously consider the idea of adding a Nikon body to my personal kit so that I could cover these lenses and the system itself. Here’s hoping for better opportunities to get first party Nikon loaners in the future, as that remains the big challenge for me at the moment.

I did a lot of research as to which Nikon body would best suit my needs, which are somewhat unique as a reviewer. I typically need the highest available resolution on any given platform so that I can thoroughly test lenses (the reason I currently own a Canon EOS R5, Sony a7RV, and Fujifilm X-H2) along with a camera that has one of the best autofocus systems on a platform so that I can give lenses a fair evaluation there as well. I decided on the Nikon Z8, as it seemed to check all the boxes. The Z9 does as well, but I’m personally not a fan of cameras with integrated vertical grips. I purchased the Z8 in late April 2024, and have spent the last six months getting familiar with the camera and using it on a daily basis. I’ve already done eight different lens reviews on it, including primes, normal and telephoto zooms, and even a high end manual focus lens. I didn’t want to jump into a review too quickly, as I like to be as expert as possible when I report on a product, and in this case I was having to learn a whole new system and get familiar with the way that Nikon does things. I’ve become much more comfortable with the system over these months, already, and I’m now ready to share my findings. You can find my full thoughts in the video review below or in my thorough text review…or just enjoy the photos below.

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This review is of a retail Z8 that I purchased from Camera Canada.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own.

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The Nikon Z8 is in essence a condensed version of the Nikon Z9 flagship camera. The Z9 is the larger “pro body” with an integrated vertical grip, while the Z8 has roughly the same feature set, sensor, and autofocus system in a more standard sized body. The Z8 is still easily the chunkiest of the four full frame cameras I own, which also include the Sony Alpha 1 and a7RV along with the Canon EOS R5. The overall grip size may be a little big for those with smaller hands, but it is comfortable enough for me. You can see that it is easily the biggest of the bunch.

In fact, I noted when doing my Fujifilm GFX100S II review that the medium format body was actually a bit smaller and lighter than the Z8, so don’t choose a different camera if you want to travel light!

But it isn’t wasted space, as Nikon has packed a lot of controls into this body.

Key Features

  • 45.7MP FX-Format Stacked CMOS Sensor
  • Lightweight Design, 30% Smaller than Z9
  • 8.3K 60p N-RAW, 4.1K 60p ProRes RAW
  • 8K30p and 4K120p Video, 10-Bit Internal
  • Up to 20 fps Raw, 30 fps JPEG Shooting
  • 493-Point AF, AI-Based Subject Detection
  • Blackout-Free Real Live Viewfinder
  • 5.5 stops of 5-axis image stabilization
  • 3.2″ 4-Axis Tilting Touchscreen LCD
  • CFx Type B & SD Memory Card Slots
  • 5 GHz Wi-Fi and Bluetooth

My first six months with the Z8 have been great, and I’ve come to appreciate the deep versatility baked into the camera and the reliable performance I’ve had with a variety of lenses. My favorite thing about the Z8 is somewhat ironic, however. For the first several years of Z-mount existence the chief complaint was the same as Canon RF mount: it was a closed platform, with only first party (Nikkor) autofocus lenses available for the platform. While Canon has unfortunately continued that policy to date (at least on full frame), Nikon has opened the floodgates to third party development. I’ve reviewed several lenses that I had previously tested on Sony, and I’ve found that in every case I preferred the overall performance on Nikon.

There are two primary reasons that spring to mind. The first is that there are no artificial limitations on burst speed (Sony limits third party lenses to 15FPS, which is half what the Z8 or my Sony Alpha 1 are capable of). Nikon has no such limitation, so I’ve thoroughly enjoyed getting the full potential out of lenses like Tamron’s telephotos for sports or wildlife.

The second thing that I’ve found is that Nikon’s VR (in camera vibration reduction) just works better than the Sony equivalent. More and more lenses (including some telephotos like the Tamron 70-300mm RXD that the photo below comes from) don’t have lens-based stabilization and instead rely solely on camera based stabilization, so that means that the stability of the lens is going to widely vary from camera to camera and from platform to platform. I’ve noticed a significant difference between the stability of lenses on the Z8 as compared to what I’ve seen from identical lenses on Sony. This 300mm shot was taken at 1/8th of a second (over 5 stops of stabilization), and I found that a result like that was very repeatable on Nikon.

In short, I’ve enjoyed the Nikon Z8 a lot thus far. Enjoy the photos!

Photos of the Nikon Z8

Photos taken with the Nikon Z8

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GEAR USED:

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Purchase the Nikon Z8 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Want to support this channel? Use these affiliate links to shop at: B&H Photo | Amazon | Adorama | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay | Make a donation via Paypal

Buy DA Merchandise https://bit.ly/TWIMerch

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Keywords: Nikon, Nikon Z8, Z, Z-mount, Z8, Review, mirrorless, Full Frame, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 45MP, #letthelightin, #DA, #NIKON, #Z8, #NIKONZ8, Firmware 2.0

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.