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Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 Z-Mount Review

Dustin Abbott

May 13th, 2024

Both Canon and Nikon entered the mirrorless space with a moratorium on third party lenses, but Nikon has been more proactive about easing that stance, and now we are seeing a wave of excellent third party lenses come to Z-mount. I’m new to Z-mount myself, but I bought the excellent Nikon Z8 with a mind to being able to cover both Nikon Z-mount products as well as evaluate how third party lenses perform on Z-mount. I spent time with the excellent Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 in May 2023 on Sony, and gave it high marks in my review there. I’m delighted to see this excellent lens come to Z-mount, as at the moment there really aren’t high quality wide angle primes wider than 20mm on the platform. The Viltrox 16Z will really fit a need here. This review will explore how well the Viltrox navigates the transfer to Z-mount. Find out more in my video review below…or just keep reading.

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Thanks to Viltrox for sending me a review copy of this lens.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the 45MP Nikon Z8, which I reviewed here.

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The 16mm was Viltrox’s first full frame lens to receive their new build, feature, and optical performance upgrades, which include weather sealing, the option to declick the aperture, two custom function buttons (more on that later), and, in a feature not seen since the Zeiss Batis series, an LCD screen on the lens that serves a variety of purposes. The response to this lens on E mount has been nothing short of enthusiastic, and I fully anticipate more of the same on Z-mount. Cameras like the Z8 are great landscape cameras while also being capable of capturing fast action; a 16mm lens with a fast maximum aperture can be handy for both.

But the Viltrox 16Z does not just impress on a feature level.  This is a very wide angle lens (105.6° angle of view) that also happens to have a larger than average maximum aperture of F1.8 – that’s  1 1/3rd stop faster than the typical F2.8 zoom that covers this focal length.  It manages to do this while retaining a moderate size (105mm in length) and weight (5653g) while delivering an exceptional optical performance.

This is a professional grade lens in both features and performance and will easily be perceived as being a very strong value.  The MSRP as it comes to market is $549 USD (though if you buy it from the Viltrox store and use code DUSTINABBOTT you can get 8% any Viltrox product, including this lens), which makes this lens an absolute bargain. The closest competitor on Nikon at the moment is the Nikkor 20mm F1.8 S, a lens that costs nearly double that of the Viltrox while offering fewer features.  That’s certainly going to make it interesting to perspective buyers!

Build and Handling

It is almost scary how quickly Viltrox has progressed as a lens maker.  As noted in the intro, Viltrox is really leveling up in terms of lens design, and that shows up here in the design and features of the AF 16mm F1.8.  Viltrox lenses have always felt a little more premium than their price points suggests, but this lens really checks all of the boxes of what we expect from a premium lens.  In basically every way the Viltrox 16Z competes with the top S lenses from Nikkor.

The 16mm F1.8 is slightly larger in Z-mount than it was in E-mount due to the different flange difference and the larger mount diameter of Z-mount. The diameter is the same (85.2mm/3.35″), though the lens profile is slightly different to accommodate that large mount diameter. The lens is very slightly longer at 105mm/4.13″ in length.  It weighs 565g or 19.4oz, about 15g more than the E-mount version.  You can see those subtle differences in these comparison shots.

What is very welcome is that the front element is flat, not bulbous, so one can use common 77mm filters on the front threads.  This isn’t a small lens, but the size and weight are reasonable for the focal length and aperture combination.  The overall size and weight are actually very similar to the Nikkor 20mm F1.8 S, and, considering that the Viltrox has a wider focal length and additional features, that’s a bonus.

There are those who complain about the size and weight of the E-mount version, and that’s fair, though this is not a bad size and weight for this kind of lens. For me, personally, the performance of the lens makes the size and weight well worth it. It’s a very natural fit on a heftier body like my Z8.

The Viltrox 16Z has a fully featured approach to aperture. The aperture ring has markings (and clicks) at each one third stop between F1.8 and F22, then a gap with a harder stop between F22 and “A” (Automatic), which allows you to control aperture from the camera body instead. The lens also has a switch that allows you to declick the aperture. That switch is located on the right side of the lens underneath a stylish new Viltrox badge.  When you turn the clicks off you can smoothly move through the whole aperture range without defined slots.  This allows for smooth video aperture racking and has become an expected pro-grade feature on modern lenses.

On the left side of the lens we have an AF/MF switch, which is a feature that I always personally welcome as I think it is most the logical way to control that function.  

Beneath that is a feature fairly unique to this – dual FN (function) buttons.  The top one functions like the typical function button, performing whatever function you have that button programmed to in camera.  The second button is going to be used more commonly for video functions, however, as when in manual focus mode it allows you to preset two focus positions and automatically switch between the two at the press of the button (A-B focus).  This works in conjunction with the LCD screen on the top of the lens (more on that in a moment).  You can preset the focus position by long pressing the FN 2 button, and then access the focus changes by short pressing it.  The feel of the buttons in the Z-mount version are improved over what I found on the Sony version – the buttons feel more precise and responsive and less rubbery.

Now to that LCD screen.  The LCD functions in many ways like those found on the Zeiss Batis lenses, though with some improvements.  The screen itself is nice and bright, allowing for good visibility even in bright conditions.  It solves the problem of a distance scale (something missing on most mirrorless lenses), as it gives you a large font telling you the precise focus distance along with a distance scale above that.  The bottom part of the screen gives you a readout of the current aperture, which is more useful if you are electing to not use the manual aperture ring and are controlling aperture from within the camera.  It also gives you some information related to the function buttons however, with the Fn icon lighting up when the first Function Button is depressed, and then the A function lights up when you are presetting focus distances.  There is a small green arrow that shows the current focus distance, and then you can preset the two desired focus distances which will be marked with a small orange arrow over the top of the both of them.  There’s actually a lot of useful information on the LCD screen once you get familiar with how it is all being displayed.

The chief complaint about the LCD screen for most people is that the distance information it displays isn’t always accurate.

The manual focus ring is made of metal with tight ribbing.  It moves smoothly and with nice damping with over 360° of rotation here on Nikon.  It does quite a good job of imitating true manual focus for a “focus-by-wire” lens, and I prefer Nikon’s manual focus process to that on Sony.

We also have weather sealing on this lens that starts with a unique maroon-colored gasket at the lens mount along with other seal points through the lens. I see 12 different sealing gaskets in this diagram.

That’s very important in a landscape lens, as often the best photos come when the weather is, well, unpredictable.

This is an internally focusing lens, so there is nothing that moves where dust might intrude. There’s also an HD-Nano multilayer coating on the front element to help with water and fingerprint resistance, making the front element easier to clean.  As always, however, “moisture-proof” does not mean “water-proof”, so don’t go crazy!

Viltrox continues with a trend that other lens makers are now imitating by including a USB-C port in the lens mount that allows you to do firmware updates right to the lens.  I’m a fan of this approach, as it eliminates the need for a separate dock or lens station for firmware updates, and I find the process a little more intuitive than even doing firmware updates through the camera.  This allows Viltrox to future proof their lenses and continue to improve them through firmware.

But Viltrox never seems to rest on their laurels. I’ve frequently seen them add new features even when releasing the same lens on a new platform (as here). They’ve added a Bluetooth module to the Z-mount version of the lens, and through their new app for IOS or Android, you can also update firmware wirelessly. Right now the app function seems to be limited to just firmware updates, though the promise is that they will add more functionality to the app control in the future.

There is no image stabilization, though thanks to the IBIS (in body image stabilization) of my Z8, I didn’t really notice.  The IBIS worked well to stabilize the lens and provide steady results for stills and video.

There are nine rounded aperture blades inside, and the aperture iris stays reasonably round as the lens is stopped down, though this is hard to test on a lens with a very wide angle of view and a fairly big minimum focus distance.  

The look of the sunstars when the lens is stopped down is actually quite nice.

One lingering Viltrox weakness remains, and that is in minimum focus and maximum magnification performance.  MFD is 27cm (10.6″) and the resulting magnification is only 0.10x, which looks like this.

On the plus side the up close performance is good even at F1.8 with good detail and contrast in the area of focus, though the plane of focus isn’t completely flat up close like that.  You can still blur out backgrounds somewhat, though don’t expect them to “disappear”.

The materials in the barrel design are very nice, with everything made of metal and nicely executed…with one exception.   The lens hood is petal shaped and made of lightweight plastic, and frankly feels a little cheap compared to the rest of the lens (somewhat like many Fuji lenses).  Also included is a pouch to store the lens is, though it doesn’t offer much protection.

You do have to have to watch that hood, too, as if you knock it (like I did while taking it out of my bag here), it can rotate a bit and cause a mechanical vignette in the corners that will ruin your images…like this:

Beyond those few weaknesses, however, this is a very nicely executed package.  The lens feels high quality in the hands, and it handles nicely as well.  It’s a professional grade lens that looks very natural on my Z8 body.

Autofocus and Video

The Viltrox 16mm is equipped with a Lead Screw-type STM (stepping motor), which is the better of the two different STM designs.  I prefer Linear over STM, but this is a well executed STM motor, delivering fast, silent, and accurate autofocus results.  The focus motor is extremely quiet, and in my tests I found that autofocus speed was excellent both indoors and outdoors.

I did sometimes run into the issue autofocus was reluctant to grab a close foreground object, though that seemed to be a common occurrence with all three lenses I was testing on Nikon, so it may be more of an autofocus system issue than something specific to this lens.

Eye AF results were good with animal subjects, even if they were in the process of moving.

Probably most important for a lens like this was consistent results for landscape and interior related work, and I found that the autofocus system was flawless for things like that.

One of the key improvements on Nikon relative to Sony is that Nikon does not artificially limit the burst rate for third party lenses as Sony does. I was able to rattle off bursts at 30FPS, and got tracking throughout.

A timelapse of action at 30FPS looks pretty much like a video, and that’s one key advantage here on Nikon for owners of this lens.

I used the Sony version of the lens in a portrait setting, and focus worked quite well, though with one caveat:  wide angle lenses don’t really work with Eye AF unless you are fairly close.  It has nothing to do with this Viltrox lens, per se, but is just the reality of a very wide angle of view where the eye doesn’t occupy a large enough area of the frame to be detected.  In fact, move out beyond 7 or 8 meters and a face isn’t even large enough.  I wanted to see the Eye AF box more during my portrait session (I’m used to seeing it!), but the actual results were well focused.

Video AF was also good.  My focus pulls were smooth and accurate, and I heard no audible focus sounds.  Focus confidence was high on both ends of the focus pulls, and focus breathing is well controlled on this lens.

My “hand test” where I put my hand out to block my face and then remove it to allow focus snap back to the eye went well overall, with good confidence in the eye detection. Focus speed was a little slow for this test, so if you want reactive focus changes, it would help to turn the focus speed in camera up.

I found that the more cinematic tuning at default settings worked well for situations where I wanted focus to “glide” from one subject to another.

You can add these strong video AF performances to the video-specific features this lens already has.  This is not a bad option at all for someone wanting a very wide angle lens to do video with.  It also has relatively low distortion, making this a tempting option for someone who wants to shoot interiors or real estate photography/videography.  Real world distortion, even without correction, is not bad at all.

I walked away impressed following my focus tests.  I’m still in the process of becoming familiar with the Nikon AF system myself, but I saw enough in my tests to feel confident that Nikon shooters will be happy with what they get out of the AF of the Viltrox 16Z.

Image Quality Breakdown

We have a fairly complex optical formula of 15 elements in 12 groups, and that includes 7 exotic elements  (either aspherical or ED low dispersion elements).  The MTF chart shows extremely strong center performance, good mid-frame, and only a slight dip towards the corners.  By F8 the results range from about 83% sharpness in the center to 77% in the extreme corners – a very, very flat (consistent) sharpness profile that is exceptionally good for a wide angle lens.  I reviewed the E-mount version of the lens on a 61MP a7RV, so while the Z8 has a high resolution point of 45MP, this is actually an easier test for the lens.

I started reviewing Viltrox lenses right at the beginning, and at first I was less than impressed by the optical glass when it came to colors.  I never felt colors were as natural as the better lenses, and as a result I felt like they quickly got garish when pushed at all.  But Viltrox has switched to a higher end Hoya optical glass partnership in the past year, and the results show in lenses like this. At it’s best, the Viltrox 16mm F1.8 is capable of very nice color.

Another historical point of weakness for Viltrox lenses is that they often exhibited some noticeable LoCA (longitudinal chromatic aberrations), but again, the trend has been in the right direction.  That trend continues here, with only the mildest amount of fringing visible even in demanding situations.

I’m also satisfied with the control of LaCA (lateral chromatic aberrations) that typically show up along the edges of the frame with high contrast transition points.  Here we can see that even at F8 there is essentially a perfect transition from black to white near the edge of my test chart.

I also found no fringing in real world images along the edges of the frame – the transitions from branches or leaves to sky are clean here.

If we move on to vignette and distortion we find the biggest optical weaknesses, though they aren’t extreme.  There is relatively little distortion though what is there isn’t very linear.  My manual corrections did about as much harm as good, as correcting the bit of barrel distortion with a +2 produced a bit of pincushion distortion in the edges.  For most real world images the amount of distortion is so mild that you are better off leaving it uncorrected.  Vignette was a little heavier on Z mount, requiring a +91 to correct (over three stops in the corners).  

The vignette is definitely heavy enough that you’ll essentially always want to correct it. There appears to be some measure of vignette correction in camera for JPEGs, but not always sufficient if shooting at wide apertures.

Not a perfect performance thus far, but nothing too severe. There’s obviously more vignette than what I would like, but the $3000 Zeiss Distagon 15mm F2.8 had as much or more. Vignette is a small price to pay for being able to retain a flat front element and the ability to use traditional filters.

We’ll move on to inspecting our test chart.  This test has been done on a 45MP Nikon Z8 sensor.  I use a high end tripod and two second camera delay to ensure vibration doesn’t affect images.  Here’s a look at the test chart that we will examine at high magnification:

If we take a look at crops (at about 180%) at F1.8 from the center, mid-frame, and lower right corner, we find that center performance is fantastic, and the mid-frame and corners remain fairly strong.

Real world results are impressive even wide open, with great sharpness and detail:

That adds up to a very useful lens for night photography in the city or low light situations.  You can trust on getting sharp images even at large apertures, which is (to me), kind of the point of having a large aperture in a wide angle lens.  I typically will stop down even a sharp lens for landscape purposes because I want a deeper depth of field, but in low light situations I prefer staying with large apertures to be able to keep the ISO down and get cleaner images.  I shot in the very early predawn light and could get very nice looking results.

A large aperture also gives you the opportunity to play with depth of field a bit.  I focused as closely as I could here on a toy car I found on an island and got a bit of a miniature effect out of it.

Stopping down to F2 provides a very slight improvement to contrast and detail, but there’s a more appreciable improvement at F2.8. The corners are starting to look quite excellent.

I haven’t yet tested the Nikkon Z 20mm F1.8 S, but from the MTF chart comparisons it looks like the two lenses deliver a very similar performance. The Viltrox 16Z is delivering crisp results all across the frame at F2.8.

By traditional landscape apertures the lens is razor sharp across the frame.  The beauty of a lens like this is its ability have a lot in focus at once.

This is the kind of lens that delights you both on a broad scale and then as you dive into the details. It handles higher resolution bodies with ease.

Lenses like this work well with higher resolution cameras because of the ability to deeply crop and get more framing options out of an image. These days you can almost always crop in more, but you can’t always step back further to get more in the frame.

Diffraction will start to soften the image by F11, but that effect will be much more noticeable at F16 or F22 (minimum aperture here).

A 16mm lens is hardly going to be a bokeh machine, but the quality of the bokeh isn’t bad. F1.8 is quite a wide maximum aperture for this focal length, though the fairly large minimum focus distance will limit just how strongly you can blur the background.

The shot above is a little future away, but here’s absolute minimum focus and as much blur as is possible for this shot.

There is some outlining to the specular highlights (bokeh balls), but the overall feel of the image is relatively soft.

I did enjoy getting low with this lens and capturing a “little world”.

A wide angle lens with a large maximum aperture is always going to be an interesting option for shooting the night sky, and the Viltrox AF 16Z is a better than average star catcher. Some clouds starting coming in on the night that was predicted to be clear, but I was still able to evaluate the coma performance on this Z-mount version of the lens.  Star points are nice and crisp in the center of the frame, and the final crop was the worst I could find near the corner where there is a bit of coma smear.  My crop is near 200%, however, so you won’t see it even this badly under normal conditions.

The bright F1.8 aperture and wide angle of view will make this a very tempting option for doing astro or nighttime city work, and the low coma will certainly help.

Flare resistance is fairly good but not perfect.  At wide apertures (the ones without a defined sunburst effect), there is little flare artifacts.  I saw a bit more ghosting at smaller apertures (like F11), though I do like the sunburst effect from the 9 aperture blades.

Sometimes if the sun is right out of the frame you can get a few light streaks, but nothing too destructive.

Overall, I think the flare resistance is quite good for a wide angle lens.  I’ve seen better, but most wide angle lenses are worse than this, particularly when you consider how wide the maximum aperture is.  This is a lens that can produce a lot of great looking images…even if the sun is in the frame.

The bang for the buck ratio for this lens is pretty fantastic. It delivers great optical results at a truly reasonable price…and also fills a focal length gap here on Nikon Z-mount. You can check out more photos by visiting the image gallery here.

Conclusion

One of my main reasons for adding a Nikon body to my kit was to be able to cover Z mount versions of lenses like this. I love what Viltrox is doing right now, and their roadmap over the next few years looks particularly exciting as they tackle both high end lenses (upcoming LAB series) along with very competitive budget options (like the AF 40mm F2.5 Z-mount lens I’m reviewing alongside this one.) I’ve only had a few weeks with my Z8, but having the Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 Z on hand to explore it with has been a lot of fun.

Viltrox clearly engineered first for Sony E-mount (that version has been out for a year), but it feels like this lens works as well on Z-mount as it did on Sony. I actually prefer the Nikon approach to things like manual focus, and it is worth noting that third party lenses don’t have the burst rate limitations on Nikon that Sony imposes. You could use this lens more easily for action and fast bursts.

The Z8 is also a nice landscape camera, and this is a nice landscape lens.

As I said in my E-mount review, it would actually be difficult for me to suggest an alternative to this lens that could compete with its performance and features at this price.  The Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 Z is going to be a disruptor on whatever platform it comes to because it checks so many boxes and at such a compelling price point.  I’ve had just as much fun with this lens on Nikon as I did on Sony, and I look forward to making beautiful images with it in the future. If you want a high performing wide angle prime for your Z-mount body…look no further. And if you buy from Viltrox and use the code DUSTINABBOTT, you can drop the price to right over $500 USD. That leaves money in your pocket…which if you’re like me, you’ll probably end up spending on another lens anyway!

Pros:

  • High level build quality
  • Very feature rich
  • Weather sealed
  • Unique LCD screen useful
  • Retains traditional filters
  • STM focus motor quick and accurate
  • Can keep up with action even at high speed bursts
  • Minimal focus breathing
  • Excellent sharpness at F1.8
  • Covers a focal length not well covered by Nikkor lenses
  • Excellent control of aberrations
  • Very little distortion
  • Good color
  • Good coma performance
  • USB port for firmware updates
  • Bluetooth for app connection
  • Amazing price to performance ratio

Cons:

  • Vignette a little heavy
  • Lens hood can be easily rotated and will cause vignette
  • Low maximum magnification 

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GEAR USED:

Purchase the Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 @ Viltrox (use code DUSTINABBOTT for 8% off) | B&H | Nuzira | Adorama | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Purchase the Nikon Z8 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 Z Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

May 13th, 2024

Both Canon and Nikon entered the mirrorless space with a moratorium on third party lenses, but Nikon has been more proactive about easing that stance, and now we are seeing a wave of excellent third party lenses come to Z-mount. I’m new to Z-mount myself, but I bought the excellent Nikon Z8 with a mind to being able to cover both Nikon Z-mount products as well as evaluate how third party lenses perform on Z-mount. I spent time with the excellent Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 in May 2023 on Sony, and gave it high marks in my review there. I’m delighted to see this excellent lens come to Z-mount, as at the moment there really aren’t high quality wide angle primes wider than 20mm on the platform. The Viltrox 16Z will really fit a need here. This review will explore how well the Viltrox navigates the transfer to Z-mount. Find out more in my video review below or by reading my text review…or just enjoy the photos below.

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Thanks to Viltrox for sending me a review copy of this lens.   As always, this is a completely independent review.  All opinions and conclusions are my own. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the 45MP Nikon Z8, which I reviewed here.

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The 16mm was Viltrox’s first full frame lens to receive their new build, feature, and optical performance upgrades, which include weather sealing, the option to declick the aperture, two custom function buttons (more on that later), and, in a feature not seen since the Zeiss Batis series, an LCD screen on the lens that serves a variety of purposes. The response to this lens on E mount has been nothing short of enthusiastic, and I fully anticipate more of the same on Z-mount. Cameras like the Z8 are great landscape cameras while also being capable of capturing fast action; a 16mm lens with a fast maximum aperture can be handy for both.

But the Viltrox 16Z does not just impress on a feature level.  This is a very wide angle lens (105.6° angle of view) that also happens to have a larger than average maximum aperture of F1.8 – that’s  1 1/3rd stop faster than the typical F2.8 zoom that covers this focal length.  It manages to do this while retaining a moderate size (105mm in length) and weight (5653g) while delivering an exceptional optical performance.

This is a professional grade lens in both features and performance and will easily be perceived as being a very strong value.  The MSRP as it comes to market is $549 USD (though if you buy it from the Viltrox store and use code DUSTINABBOTT you can get 8% any Viltrox product, including this lens), which makes this lens an absolute bargain. The closest competitor on Nikon at the moment is the Nikkor 20mm F1.8 S, a lens that costs nearly double that of the Viltrox while offering fewer features.  That’s certainly going to make it interesting to perspective buyers!

Build and Handling

Image Quality Breakdown

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GEAR USED:

Purchase the Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 @ Viltrox (use code DUSTINABBOTT for 8% off) | B&H | Nuzira | Adorama | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Purchase the Nikon Z8 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany

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Want to support this channel? Use these affiliate links to shop at: B&H Photo | Amazon | Adorama | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay | Make a donation via Paypal

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Keywords: Viltrox, Viltrox AF, Viltrox 16mm, Wide Angle, Full Frame, F1.8, f/1.8, STM, Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8, Viltrox 16mm Review, Viltrox AF 16mm F1.8 Review, LCD Screen, Nikon, Nikon Z8, Z, Z-mount, Z8, Review, mirrorless, Full Frame, Sports, Tracking, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Handling, Focus, Portraits, Resolution, High ISO, Image Quality, Sample Images, Photography, 45MP, #letthelightin, #DA, #NIKON, #Z8, #NIKONZ8

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Traveling with the Tamron 28-200mm and the Sony a7RV

Dustin Abbott

October 31st, 2023

I was very pleasantly surprised by the Tamron 28-200mm F2.8-5.6 Di III RXD when I reviewed it in 2020. I’ve typically been underwhelmed by the optical performance of “superzoom” type lenses as there are simply too many compromises to try to accommodate all the different focal lengths from wide angle to telephoto. But the Tamron 28-200mm was different. It was actually sharp across the zoom range, and while the bokeh isn’t as smooth as a lens like their 28-75mm or 70-180mm F2.8 zooms, it really is pretty good. But I’ve also seen that lenses that look pretty good at lower resolution points can fall apart when put on high resolution bodies. I added the 61MP Sony a7RV to my kit this year, and I was curious as to whether the Tamron would still hold up when mounted on such a high resolution camera. I took the Tamron and Sony combo on a trip to Cancun, Mexico this year to see how the combo would handle and if the Tamron was still the best travel option out there for Sony FE. You can get my thoughts in the video below.

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The Tamron 28-200mm used in this review is a retail copy I’ve owned for three years. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the Sony a7RV along with the Sony Alpha 1 that serve as my benchmark cameras for Sony lenses.

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*Tamron just released a free firmware update for the 28-200mm that improves autofocus tracking performance. Visit this page for more information.

I’ve included an image gallery of various photos from the trip below covering the gambit from some wildlife, architecture, portraits, landscapes, and more. This will give some flavor of the various kinds of images that are easy to get with the Tamron and its very flexible focal range.

Photos from Mexico

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GEAR USED:

Purchase the Tamron 28-200mm F2.8-5.6 RXD @ B&H Photo | AdoramaAmazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

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Keywords:  Sony, Tamron, withmytamron, A071, Tamron 28-200mm, Tamron 28-200mm, RXD, F2.8-5.6, Mexico, Cancun, Haven Riviera, 28-200mm, 28-200, Di III, Sony FE, Tamron 28-200mm Review, F2.8, Tamron 28-200 Review, 28-200mm F2.8-5.6, Dustin Abbott, Autofocus, Sample Images, Video, Video Test, review, Video review, Real World, Wide Angle, Sony a7RV, Portrait, Sharpness, Resolution, Bokeh, Sony 24-240mm, Travel, All-in-one

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Pergear 14mm F2.8 II Review

Dustin Abbott

September 8th, 2023

Pergear released a 14mm F2.8 wide angle prime for full frame cameras a few years ago, and while it was nicely sharp, there were some areas that could be improved.  But Pergear is back with a second attempt that has improved on a number of those shortcomings.  The new Pergear 14mm F2.8 II features:

  • More compact size
  • Reduced flare (though this remains a vulnerability)
  • A reduced minimum focus distance (from 43cm to 21cm for the new version)
  • An improved design for the attachable filter holder

I didn’t test the first lens, but while there are a few areas where this ultra wide angle prime shows its budget origins (it costs $299 USD), but it also has some serious strengths, including incredibly sharpness even on my high resolution Sony a7RV (61MP).

It also has very low distortion for such a wide angle lens, making this a valid budget option for capturing interior spaces and retaining clean lines.

While colors are not also as accurate as more expensive lens with better optical glass, there was a certain charm to the color rendition in many images, leading to rich looking images.

If you’ve never shot with an ultra wide angle lens (the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II has an impressively wide 114° angle of view), you’ll discover that while the focal length does provide some composition challenges (you often need to get much closer to subjects than you might expect!), such a wide angle lens provides wonderfully dynamic images.

The Pergear 14mm F2.8 II is a manual everything lens, so won’t be for everyone, but a lens like this is easy to focus and shoot with…with a few caveats.  Should you consider the 14II for an extreme wide angle alternative for your full frame mirroless camera (it comes in Sony E-mount [tested here], Canon RF, Nikon Z, and Leica L)? You can judge for yourself by either watching my video review below, reading my text review, or just enjoy the photos below.

Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px

Thanks to Pergear for sending me a review sample of this lens. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the Sony a7RV along with the Sony Alpha 1 that serve as my benchmark cameras for Sony lenses.

Pergear 14mm F2.8 II Build and Handling

Pergear has reduced the size of the MK II version of the lens and given it a different profile.  It is very compact now for a full frame lens at just 65mm in diameter and 80mm in length (2.56″ x 3.15″) and weighs in at 500g (17.6oz).

This is a manual everything lens, so both focus and aperture will be controlled via the corresponding rings on the lens barrel.  The first ring is the manual focus ring which has a nice, definite damping with a surprisingly quality feel to the focus action.  The focus throw is not long; about 110° from minimum to infinity.

There is a distance scale on the ring itself, while on the non-rotating part of the barrel there is hyperfocal markings for almost all the potential aperture values.

There is a narrow manual aperture ring beyond this with light but noticeable detents at half stop marks between F2.8 and F5.6.  From F5.6 to F22 there are only single stop clicks for each aperture value.

The aperture action feels good, though I did note that the ring moves a little to the left of F2.8 and what feels like a full additional stop after F22, denoting a slight calibration issue.

Up front there is a very small fixed lens hood that helps protect the bulbous front element.

Typically this would preclude the use of traditional filters, but Pergear has a clever solution for that.  There is a nicely made attachment that bayonets on the front of the lens that looks like an extended lens hood but is actually a filter holder with 82mm filter thread.  The attachment is all in metal and nicely engineered with good tolerances.  It bayonets in tightly and securely.

Just using the filter holder itself added no additional vignette, though vignette definitely intensified when using a stronger ND filter.

If I had one recommendation, it would be include an 82mm pinch cap in addition to the metal cap that fits over the fixed lens hood.

The lens feels complete with the filter holder in place, and I would be happy to keep the attachment on all the time and use a pinch cap to protect it.  The included lens cap fits over the fixed lens hood.

The aperture iris has ten blades.  You won’t be creating a lot of bokeh with this lens, so this is less about creating a circular aperture and more about creating a nice clean sunstar (even aperture blades produce the same number of blades on the sunstar, so we have a ten-bladed sunstar here).

The minimum focus distance is improved to 22cm, though the maximum magnification level is still very low (it looks like approximately 0.07x or so to me):

That doesn’t make for overly blurred out backgrounds, though I did still think that some close up images still had a certain charm to them.

There is no weather sealing on the lens, though it is internally focusing, so there should be relatively few ways that dust or moisture can intrude into the lens.  The complete lack of electronics also means that there are fewer potential components to be impacted.

The Pergear 14mm F2.8 II has a surprisingly heavy weight for its compact size, but that’s largely due to having a very high degree of build of all metal and glass.  It doesn’t feel like a budget lens in terms of the fit and finish, and isn’t bad to handle in the field at all.

 

Pergear 14mm F2.8 II Manual Focus Observations

Many people have a very negative perception of manual focus lenses as they don’t enjoy manual focus or feel like it will result in a lot of missed shots.  The truth of the matter with a lens like this is that there is actually very little focusing involved.  If you are shooting at 14mm and stop down to F4 then focus a distance of 2 meters in front of the camera, everything from less than a meter away from the camera to infinity will be in focus.  The copy of the lens that I tested actually had a properly calibrated infinity focus, too, so I could just turn the focus ring to the hard stop at infinity and pretty much everything would be in focus all the time.

The only time I messed with focus is when I needed to focus on a close subject, and then using a focus aid like a colored focus overlay or magnifying the image in the viewfinder or on screen made nailing focus simple.  I didn’t have one misfocused shot in my whole catalog of images taken with the lens, and, frankly, I didn’t spend much time focusing with it.

It may seem intimidating to use a manual focus lens, but that’s really not much of a difficulty here.

What I did find more of a challenge is metering in certain situations.  There are no electronics in the lens, and I sometimes find that lenses without electronics and heavy vignette (which this lens has) makes for some challenges for metering.  Some shots tend towards underexposure.  I typically shoot in Aperture Priority (AV) mode, and most of the time the camera did a fairly good job metering, but not always.  The worst sequence, in fact, was when I shot my test chart for various lens evaluations, and I actually ended up manually setting the exposure for the appropriate stops as I moved throughout the aperture options because I didn’t trust the camera’s metering results.  I would say that this will provide more a challenge for less experienced photographers than manually focusing.

One final observation is that lenses without electronics will not transmit any EXIF data to the camera, so your photos will be missing some data like the lens designation, lens focal length, and the aperture value.  The EXIF data will only record camera related information like the shutter speed and ISO value.  There is some penalty to using a lens like this without electronics, but it’s not quite as severe as some people might think.

Pergear 14mm F2.8 II Image Quality

The Pergear 14mm F2.8 II has a few optical weaknesses, but it also has some very impressive attributes for such a wide angle lens – namely incredible sharpness and very low distortion for such a wide angle of view.  My first 14mm lens was a very similar kind of lens – the Rokinon (Samyang) 14mm F2.8, which I reviewed back in 2013.  In some ways this Pergear lens reminds me of that one, in that, despite some evidence of being a lower budget lens, the images you can produce are quite impressive.  But the Pergear is a much stronger lens all around, with better build, much lower distortion, and excellent sharpness that (unlike the Samyang) reach all the way to the corners.  This is an extremely sharp wide angle lens even on a 61MP sensor.

There are a few optical issues to highlight, but a lot of strengths here.  There’s one of each to look at if we inspect our distortion and vignette chart:

We see a surprisingly strong performance for distortion.  There is a negligible amount of barrel distortion that you could easily leave uncorrected (I did not bother with correcting it in my real world images).  I used a +3 to correct the barrel distortion for the result on the right above.  Vignette is much more heavy, requiring a +76 to correct at F2.8 (nearly three stops), though I will note that vignette does diminish as you stop the lens down.  Note that any kind of heavier vignette like this will get magnified in long exposure shots when using filters.  The comparison below shows the same shot without a filter (left) and with a six stop ND filter on the right:

This isn’t a mechanical vignette issue (caused by the filter itself), but rather the natural vignette being amplified because comparatively less light is reaching the edges of the frame.

Longitudinal chromatic aberrations (LoCA) typically show up as purple/magenta fringing before the plane of focus and blue/green fringing beyond the plane of focus due to colors not being perfectly focused together.  They typically diminish as the lens is stopped down to smaller apertures.  I didn’t see any real world LoCA, though that wasn’t unexpected in a lens with such a wide focal length and a low magnification figure.  There just isn’t much room for narrow depth of field with a lens like this.  A lens like this would be more likely to suffer with Lateral chromatic aberrations (LaCA) that show up as fringing on either side of contrast areas (like tree trunks, for example) along the edges of the frame.  Unlike LoCA, they do not improve when stopping the aperture down, but are much easier to correct for (typically a one click “remove chromatic aberrations” box in editing software).  We can see once again that there is no evidence of any fringing near the edges of the frame. 

So far only the vignette shows in the negatives, and that’s a very common issue with wide angle lenses.

So how about sharpness?  I’ve used the very high resolution (61MP) Sony a7RV for this series of tests, which obviously sets an exacting standard for sharpness and contrast.  Here’s a look at the test chart:

And here are the 14mm F2.8 crops at about 180% magnification, taken from the center, then mid-frame, and then extreme lower right corner:

We see an extremely sharp center, good (though slightly softer) mid-frame, and corners not far behind the mid-frame.  That’s very good for such a wide angle lens, particularly in the corners.  The lens is probably helped by the low distortion there, as the corner sharpness doesn’t take a hit by being stretched.

At a more typical 100% magnification, this translates to excellent real world sharpness, allowing you to take great photos even at night:

Stopping down to F4 sharpens up the midframe and corners further.  Here’s a look at the upper left corner with F2.8 on the left and F4 on the right.

There’s more sharpness on tap by F5.6, and the corners really sparkle by this point (F4 on the left, F5.6 on the right):

Landscape aperture shots look great, with lovely detail all throughout the frame.

F5.6 and F8 look great, but after that diffraction on my high resolution test camera will start to diminish contrast.  F11 still looks pretty good, but the image is noticeably softening by F16 and very soft by F22.

I didn’t get a chance to shoot stars, but I did see a low instance of coma in the corners of the frame for nighttime images, so this actually would be a pretty decent budget astro lens.

While Pergear says that this lens is improved for flare resistance, I still find this to be perhaps the biggest single weakness for the lens.  In certain positions there are large ghosting issues, like the left hand of this lens.

In some positions, the flare resistance was fine, like in this shot:

Pulling down that same composition to a different spot, and we see a flashing of light across the frame.

Colors were not fully accurate, in my opinion, with a slight green bias.  In my tropical shots, I felt like it worked, and images actually looked really great.

I loved a lot of my early morning shots along the ocean, as I felt the optical glass complimented this type of shot.

In some other settings, however, I felt the greens were a little oversaturated and had a slightly cartoonish look.

In general, however, I’m very impressed with the image quality from this lens.  I did feel like I needed to spend a bit more time with basic edits (no correction profiles, a delicate hand with colors, etc…), but I was able to get a lot of images that I really liked.

For the money, I would say that you would be hard pressed to get more bang for your buck in an extreme wide angle lens.  If you would like to see more images, check out my image gallery here.  

 

Conclusion

To be honest, I didn’t have high expectations for this lens.  Pergear is still “young” as a lensmaker, and a wide angle, wide aperture prime for full frame is not an easy engineering challenge.  It’s clear that the first generation lens had some strengths, but it also had a number of significant weaknesses.  There isn’t a huge time gap between these two releases, but from what I can see I would say that Pergear was probably wise to accelerate the development of this second generation lens, as there are some clear signs of maturing design in this Pergear 14mm F2.8 II.  You can definitely get some great images even from the most high resolution full frame camera available right now.

The Pergear makes for a great night lens as well, as you don’t really need to think about focusing (once focus is set), allowing you to quickly grab images in any kind of lighting condition.

For most people, a 14mm lens is never going to be their primary lens.  It’s probably not even your second lens.  It’s a more specialized lens for certain situations, so, as a byproduct, I think there is a definite market for the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II because its price is so low.  A smaller investment of under $300 USD makes more sense than spending $1000+ on a lens you might use less frequently.  But what makes a lens like this intriguing is that for a small investment you can get a lens that is capable of producing really dynamic, engaging images.  If you’re looking for a relatively inexpensive lens that will give you the kinds of images that a kit lens cannot give, the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II is an intriguing option despite having a few shortcomings.

 

Pros:

  • Great price to performance ratio
  • Compact size
  • Overall nice build
  • Good focus ring
  • Very low distortion
  • Excellent sharpness
  • Low chromatic aberrations
  • Clever filtering integration

Cons:

  • Fairly heavy vignette
  • Some flare issues
  • Aperture ring calibration slightly off

 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

GEAR USED:

Purchase the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II @ Pergear  |  Amazon (get 10% off) | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK  | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Sony a7RV @ B&H Photo | AdoramaAmazon | Camera Canada | Sony Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Sony a7IV @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Sony Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Sony Alpha 1 @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Sony Canada | Amazon CanadaAmazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

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Keywords:  Pergear 14mm F2.8 II, Pergear 14mm, Pergear, 14mm, F2.8, II, Wide Angle, Full Frame, Pergear 14mm F2.8 II Review, Sony,  Review, Sony Alpha 1, Sony a7IV, Sony a7RV, Review, Hands On, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Sharpness, Bokeh, Flare Resistance, Autofocus, Image Quality, Sample Images, Video, Travel, Mexico, Cancun, Photography, let the light in, #letthelightin, DA

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Pergear 14mm F2.8 II Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

September 8th, 2023

Pergear released a 14mm F2.8 wide angle prime for full frame cameras a few years ago, and while it was nicely sharp, there were some areas that could be improved.  But Pergear is back with a second attempt that has improved on a number of those shortcomings.  The new Pergear 14mm F2.8 II features:

  • More compact size
  • Reduced flare (though this remains a vulnerability)
  • A reduced minimum focus distance (from 43cm to 21cm for the new version)
  • An improved design for the attachable filter holder

I didn’t test the first lens, but while there are a few areas where this ultra wide angle prime shows its budget origins (it costs $299 USD), but it also has some serious strengths, including incredibly sharpness even on my high resolution Sony a7RV (61MP).

It also has very low distortion for such a wide angle lens, making this a valid budget option for capturing interior spaces and retaining clean lines.

While colors are not also as accurate as more expensive lens with better optical glass, there was a certain charm to the color rendition in many images, leading to rich looking images.

If you’ve never shot with an ultra wide angle lens (the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II has an impressively wide 114° angle of view), you’ll discover that while the focal length does provide some composition challenges (you often need to get much closer to subjects than you might expect!), such a wide angle lens provides wonderfully dynamic images.

The Pergear 14mm F2.8 II is a manual everything lens, so won’t be for everyone, but a lens like this is easy to focus and shoot with…with a few caveats.  Should you consider the 14II for an extreme wide angle alternative for your full frame mirroless camera (it comes in Sony E-mount [tested here], Canon RF, Nikon Z, and Leica L)? You can judge for yourself by either watching my video review below or reading the text review…or just enjoy the photos below.

 

Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px

Thanks to Pergear for sending me a review sample of this lens. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the Sony a7RV along with the Sony Alpha 1 that serve as my benchmark cameras for Sony lenses.

Images of the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II 

 

Images taken with the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II 

 

 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

GEAR USED:

Purchase the Pergear 14mm F2.8 II @ Pergear  | Amazon (get 10% off)| Amazon Canada | Amazon UK  | Amazon Germany 

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Purchase the Sony a7IV @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Sony Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Sony Alpha 1 @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Sony Canada | Amazon CanadaAmazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

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Keywords:  Pergear 14mm F2.8 II, Pergear 14mm, Pergear, 14mm, F2.8, II, Wide Angle, Full Frame, Pergear 14mm F2.8 II Review, Sony,  Review, Sony Alpha 1, Sony a7IV, Sony a7RV, Review, Hands On, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Sharpness, Bokeh, Flare Resistance, Autofocus, Image Quality, Sample Images, Video, Travel, Mexico, Cancun, Photography, let the light in, #letthelightin, DA

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 LM PZ WR Review

Dustin Abbott

July 20th, 2023

Powerzoom lenses are always a bit of the oddball in the room – caught between video and photography.  The PowerZoom function is most reminiscent of the focus on camcorders or similar video cameras, but the cameras that a PZ lens will be mounted on is, at its heart, a device designed first and foremost for photography.  Serious cinematographers tend to use more complex focus-follow systems and gearing for their systems, while many of those who are photographers first probably aren’t all that interested in the idea of zooming during video recording even if they do video.  That leaves a fairly small niche for these lenses, which in many ways is a shame, as the Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 LM WR PZ is, in many ways, the perfect all-in-one zoom for Fuji X-mount.  It has a great focal range (nearly 6.7x zoom ratio), a constant aperture of F4, quality autofocus via the linear motors, an internally zooming design, and fairly good optics throughout.  That focal range is so useful, going from 18mm (27mm full frame equivalence):

to 120mm (183mm full frame equivalence):

The vast, vast majority of photography subjects fall within this range, and I found the lens very useful as a walkaround lens.  I personally preferred it to either the 18-55mm F2.8-4 OIS or the 16-80mm F4 OIS (though surely some will dispute the latter), but that is with a major caveat:  I tested the lens on two bodies that have IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) – the Fujifilm X-H2 and the new X-S20.  The one acronym missing from the 18-120mm PZ’s description is OIS – which stands for Optical Image Stabilizer.  There is no in-lens stabilization, which is actually very rare for any Fuji zoom lenses with an aperture of F4.  If you own a body with IBIS, you may not miss it, but it is a very odd decision in a video specific lens considering how many of Fuji’s cameras don’t have IBIS.  Trying to get handheld video without stabilization is a nightmare!  This is a lens that should probably only be seriously considered by those that have a camera with IBIS.

If you do own such a camera, Fuji has developed some of the best IBIS systems out there.  My X-H2 held the viewfinder perfectly steady with the 18-120mm PZ zoomed out to 120mm, and I was able to easily get 120mm shots with 1/5th of a second shutter speeds (right over 5 stops) and some success going one stop lower to 0.5 second shutter speeds.

I’ve read a number of user reviews since this is a lens that has been on the market for a while before I’m actually reviewing it (it released in September 2022), and most of the criticisms seem to fall around the lack of OIS and some frustrations with the video specific aspects of the lens.  I actually feel like the lens would have been better received if they had gone a more conventional route and added OIS rather than the powerzoom functionality.  

There is some renewed interest in PZ lenses at the moment due to the release of the TG-BT1 Tripod Grip.  I’ve reviewed several such accessories in the past for other platforms, and they are very useful for Bluetooth control, extending your reach for vlogging, a quick tabletop tripod, and even for video capture where you have the major controls right at hand.  It’s particularly useful if you have one of the powerzoom lenses (like the kit lens 15-45mm OIS PZ) or the 18-120mm PZ as you can smoothly zoom in our out without grasping a ring of any kind.  This definitely adds some versatility and reminds me of using a remote to zoom my camcorder in years past.

I’ve reviewed the 18-120mm PZ on two different camera bodies.  One is the compact X-S20 body (which I reviewed here); the second is the larger, higher resolution X-H2 (my review here).  The X-H2 is the camera I’ve done the optical tests on, and it is the most demanding platform at the moment for any lens to be tested on.  So does this lens make sense?  We’ll try to answer those questions and more in this review.  If you would prefer to watch your reviews, you can choose to watch my definitive video review below…or just keep reading.

 

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Follow Me @ YouTube | Patreon |  Instagram | Facebook | DA Merchandise | Flickr | 500px Thanks to Fujifilm Canada for loaning me this lens for review.  As always, this is a completely independent review and my conclusions are my own.

Fuji XF 18-120mm PZ Build and Handling

Fuji likes to essentially build the feature list of their lenses right into the name, so if you learn to “speak Fuji” you can quickly get a sense of what a lens does and does not have right from the name.  In this case, the name includes LM, WR, and PZ

  • LM = Linear Motors, Fuji’s premium focus system
  • WR = Weather Resistance
  • PZ = Powerzoom

We’ve already mentioned that OIS is missing, but another interesting omission is R, which stands for aperture ring.  This is another odd omission, as just about all of Fuji’s other zooms do have an aperture ring.  The lack of an aperture ring is less unusual on most other platforms, but this has been one of the defining attributes of lens design on Fuji, so I suspect some photographers will definitely miss it as they are accustomed to using the ring as their point of control for aperture.  This most likely means that you will have to assign one of the control wheels to aperture when using the lens.

Fuji has delivered a thoroughly weather sealed lens here with a gasket at the lens mount, internal seals (12 of them!), and a fluorine coating on both the front and rear elements.  The latter helps deal with fingerprints or water and makes the elements easier to clean.

The overall shape of the 18-120mm PZ is different from competing zooms because of being an internally zooming design.  This obviously will help with the weathersealing, as well, as nothing extends outside the lens during zooming.    The dimensions of the XF 18-120mm PZ are 3 (D) x 4.9″ (L) / 77.3 x 123.5 mm with a 72mm front filter thread size.  The weight is moderate at 1 lb or 470 g.  It has a fairly long and slim lens profile, and while the internal zoom makes it a little longer for storage, there are a number of very positive trade-offs. 

The primary one for video work is that this makes for a great gimbal lens.  Depending on your gimbal, you may be able to activate the powerzoom feature right from your gimbal controls, and because of it being an internally zooming lens, the weight balance will be the same regardless of what focal length you are selecting.

Most of the physical controls are designed around two functions:  zooming and focusing.  In the case of zooming, you have three different ways to zoom.  One is the typical zoom ring that most photographers will be familiar with (it’s the widest ring in the center of the lens).  You can also use the unique Zoom/Focus control ring (the slimmer ring between the zoom ring and the Z/F button).  There is also a small lever beneath the Z/F button that can be used for slow, controlled zooming.  You would think that with three options here, there would certainly be at least one standout way to zoom the lens, but for stills, at least, that just isn’t the case.

Why?  

Because all three approaches involve a “zoom-by-wire” functionality, where the input from the rings is actually routed through the powerzoom motor.  Even the main zoom ring requires about five rotations to get from 18 to 120mm.  There’s no quick way to zoom, which means that as a photographer, you will probably miss a few shots because you are intent on getting to the focal length you want but can’t quickly get there.  It’s also worth noting that the powerzoom motor isn’t silent, so it is possible that you will pick up some sound if shooting in a very quiet environment.

The “rocker-style” zoom ring is a little more useful, as it is position sensitive.  If you move it all the way in one direction or another, it will speed up the zoom, and the zoom action will be slower if you press it only partway forward or backward.  This is good for smooth, continuous zooming (the main zoom ring will be limited by your wrist rotations, with a pause between them), but it still isn’t fast even if push the rocker all the way forward or backward.  I started from 18mm moving as fast as it would allow and counted an easy “3 Mississippis” (roughly 3 seconds) before I reached 120mm.  Not a lot of time in an absolute sense, but an eternity if you are desperate to get a shot.

The final option is the small lever/buttons under the Z/F button that allows you to do very slow, very controlled zooms by pressing in one on side of the rocker or the other.  You can then release, as the lens will slowly and smoothly continue slowing panning out or in.  And I mean slowly.  I started a video and initiated the zoom, and it took nearly 30 seconds to go from 18 to 120mm!  Obviously this is designed for slow pulls in or out and isn’t useful for much else.

The biggest challenge here is that the lens is not parfocal (focus is not at a consistent point throughout the zoom range), so as you zoom the lens must make small focus adjustments, and I could often see them.  You can choose a small focus point and place it where you want, obviously, but what is small at 18mm is going to be huge by 120mm in terms of how much of the frame it occupies, so that almost certainly means that there will be some focus adjustments along the way.  This was a lens that REALLY needed to be parfocal and is not.  That’s a missed opportunity and is one of the chief complaints from real world users who wanted to love the lens but didn’t because of this.

In many ways the single biggest value of the powerzoom is the ability to remotely control it.  That allows for the camera/lens to be tripod mounted and thus have pans in and out without the fear of introducing vibration.  The TG-BT1 grip/remote is a good option for that.  I break down its function in this short video:

The final piece of the puzzle is the Z/F button.  It allows you to switch between Zoom or Focus for the rocker style ring at the back.  The idea is to allow for smooth focus racks.  It does work, though I found two issues with the actual operation.  First, this only works if you want to do relatively small focus changes, because (you guessed it!) focus moves as slowly as the zoom action.  A large focus change takes a LONG time even at the fastest setting.  The second issue is that it is basically impossible to take pressure off the rocker (say at the end of your focus pull) without jarring the camera.  That’s fine if you want to just focus right through your target (you can then cut the jarring out in post), but if you want to pull to your subject and then stay there, it is very difficult to do that smoothly.  The upside is that you can do some focus pulls in a way that Fuji’s standard focus rings don’t really allow for, but the execution still isn’t quite there.

One final observation is that the Z/F button has a lot of travel and doesn’t activate until the end of it.  You have to push a little harder (and deeper) than what you might expect.

In most other ways the lens feels like standard Fuji fare.  It has quality feel to it and has Fuji’s attractive classic semi-gloss black finish.

The included lens hood is is a petal shaped design.  As usual, I don’t feel like the hood feels quite as quality as the materials of the lens, and the finish is slightly more matte and seems to get rub-marks and scratches far more easily than the nicer finish on the lens barrel.

There are no other switches on the barrel, as AF/MF is handled via a lever/button on Fuji camera bodies.  Thus far Fuji has nothing that is the equivalent of Sony’s “focus hold button” on their lenses, nor is there any option to declick the aperture.  That seems like an odd omission in a lens so clearly designed around video.

The minimum focus distance is a not-particularly-close 60cm, but the magnification figure is a very useful 0.20x nonetheless.  Here’s a look at MFD:

Up close performance is fairly good, with nice detail and nicely blurred out backgrounds.

You’ve probably been able to pick up on what has been the major issue with the 18-120mm PZ; it has a lot of promising ideas but doesn’t quite deliver on them.  There are some key areas where the execution reduces the potential of the lens.  On paper, I like a lot of the ideas here, but the lens doesn’t quite live up to expectations in real world use.  I love the internally zooming design, the constant aperture, the weather sealing, and the modest weight of the lens.  I don’t love the zooming and agree with other users that the aperture ring is missed.

Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 LM Autofocus Performance

The Fujinon XF 18-120mm PZ is equipped with a linear focus motor, which is Fuji’s premium autofocus system.  Focus was smooth, quiet, and fast.  I had no problems locking on subjects, even if that subject was a bird on the wing.

Focus was also accurate around my bee hive, with the insect detection locking onto the bees as they moved in and out of the hive.

Focus of Nala on the move was also good, with good eye tracking and stickiness:

I startled a flock of gulls near the water, and while focus didn’t start on the gulls (I was bringing the camera up), you can see that focus adjusted and was accurate as I panned across the water to follow them.

Focus breathing was well controlled in my video focus pulls tests.  I saw no visible steps during the actual pull, but I did see an unfortunate common Fuji trait – focus traveled the majority of the way but then would have a split second pause before settling on the final focus lock.  Fuji still isn’t quite at the level of Sony or Canon in this area.  My hand test (where I reach forward and block the view of my face before removing it and allowing focus to come back to my eye) was smoother.  Fuji’s AI tracking is quite good, and it seems like focus is more confident if there is one of the “trackable” subjects in frame.

I had my daughter shoot a clip of me approaching in my truck for my Ford Maverick review, and the vehicle was tracked smoothly as it approached the camera and as she panned to capture me passing.

As noted, the lens is not parfocal, so when I filmed the fast zoom clip for my review, you could clearly see focus trying to catch up by the time I reached 120mm.  Focus is fast, but not quite fast enough to keep up in that instance.  Another problem that could have been solved by a parfocal design.

In general, however, autofocus is good for both stills and video work.

Fuji XF 18-120mm PZ Image Quality Breakdown

The Fuji XF 18-120mm PZ has an optical design of 15 elements in 12 groups, and this includes 3 aspherical and 3 ED elements.  The MTF chart shows a very strong performance in the center of the frame at both 18mm and 120mm, with some regression near the mid-frame.  At 18mm there is a further dip that improves right at the edge of the frame (a unique graph), while at 120mm the MTFs show a steady regression to the corners, which are fairly soft.

The extremely high resolution of the Fujifilm X-H2 (40.2MP) that I’m reviewing the lens on is essentially the most optically demanding platform I review on right now, offering much greater pixel density than the 61MP Sony a7RV or Fujifilm GF100S and its 100MP medium format sensor.  I have quickly seen that not every lens holds up well to the demands of this sensor, so this will be a hard test.  There were moments that I was pleasantly surprised, however, as in this shot of wildflowers (104mm, F4):

Fuji’s correction profiles are typically quite good, but I’ll turn them off to take a look at the actual lens performance when it comes to vignette and distortion.  There is (unsurprisingly) a strong amount of barrel distortion present along with significant vignetting at 18mm:

I corrected the distortion with a +17, and while the manual correction isn’t perfect, the distortion did correct in a fairly linear fashion.  Vignette is moderately heavy (nearly three stops) and required a +73 to fully correct.

As you progress through the zoom range, the distortion flips to pincushion style distortion that is progressively stronger as you zoom out.  At 12omm it is the strongest, looking like this:

This distortion is nice and linear, and easy to correct, but there is a fair bit (-14 to correct).  Vignette isn’t bad at all, however, requiring only a +39 to correct for it.  As per usual, Fuji’s correction profiles do a nice job of adjusting for all of these issues.

How about chromatic aberrations?  When I went looking for longitudinal chromatic aberrations, I found very little of them either on my test chart on in real world images.  There is a very minor amount of fringing before and after the plane of focus on my test chart, but little that shows up in the real world…even with all of those pixels on the X-H2 to reveal them.  You can see on these white blossoms that there are no apparent fringing issues:

As we’ll see a little later, however, I did some fringing in harsher outdoor lighting.

I also looked for the lateral chromatic aberrations that show up near the edge of the frame in high transition areas.  There are minimal amounts of LaCA, that seem very concentrated at the very edge of the frame:

There’s no deal breaking flaws here.  This is actually a pretty good performance for a zoom lens with such a broad zoom ratio.

So how about sharpness? Here’s a look at my test chart that the crops came from (40MP images from the X-H2):

Here’s a look at 18mm F4 crops (about 175% magnification) from the center, mid-frame, and corner:

We see essentially what the MTF chart shows:  a sharp center, a good mid-frame, and a fairly good corner performance.  I’m not wowed by the amount of contrast and rending of fine details, though I’ve seen much worse.  Unfortunately there isn’t a lot extra “in the tank” here if you stop the lens down.  There’s a very mild improvement of contrast at F5.6, but no further gains at F8 due to diffraction already starting to limit what gains might naturally be there.  Here’s a real world image at 18mm, F8 with crops.

You’ll see that detail is good but not exceptional, and the textures aren’t clearly defined even in the center, though the center has more contrast and detail than the crop from the edge of the frame.

Minimum aperture is F22, but you can see that diffraction has completely robbed the image of all sharpness and clarity. 

It’s worth observing that very high resolution cameras like the X-H2 or X-T5 are going to be better served by large aperture lenses.  They can be stopped down multiple stops before diffraction begins (it typically shows up between F5.6 and F8 and gets progressively worse as the aperture closes down).  That allows these lenses to achieve maximum sharpness before diffraction occurs.  A lens like the 150-600mm F5.6-8 is already past that diffraction point at its maximum aperture of F8 on the telephoto end, meaning that you can’t stop the lens down to improve sharpness effectively.

Moving on to 35mm shows an almost identical performance to the results at 18mm, though without the odd dip about 2/3rds of the way out.  There’s a more consistently linear performance in sharpness, so my outer midframe results definitely look better even if the corners are about equal:

Stopping down to F5.6 gives a mild improvement in contrast.  Real world results at landscape apertures look very nice on a global level even if the detail doesn’t pop off the screen at a pixel level.

The results at 50mm are the best yet, with a slight improvement over the 35mm results.  There is more contrast and detail, and it shows up across the frame.  It’s a mild improvement, but it is there.  This real world image looks nice and crisp in the plane of focus:

There’s also slightly more capacity for increased sharpness when stopped down.  I noticed a little more improvement than earlier focal lengths when stopping down to F5.6 or F8.

At 90mm the image was definitely softer at F4, though I saw a much more obvious improvement at F5.6 than usual.  This real world result at F4 looks pretty good even if contrast isn’t fantastic.

My test results show a similar trend at 120mm.  Results are a bit softer across the frame, and the corner performance is considerably weaker than at wider focal lengths.  Stopping down to smaller apertures helps somewhat, but the lens never really gets particularly sharp.

This real world shot at F8 shows a pretty good performance in the center (though you can see some “blooming” in the highlights due to weak contrast), but the edge shot is quite soft and shows some strong aberrations on the edges of some of the brighter subjects.

Contrast seemed better at closer distances and easier lighting conditions.

On the flip side, I actually felt like the bokeh quality was pretty good at longer focal lengths for a zoom like this.  At closer distances you have the ability to really blur out a background, and this image at 120mm, F4, looks great.

Likewise, the bokeh in this shot of bright leaves against the green background of a rainy day also looks great.

With a less ideal subject to background ratio, things can get a little busier, but not terrible:

You’ll get a little more outlining in the bokeh in the middle of the range (where the lens is sharper), but again, not bad:

I found that flare resistance was fairly good, and for normal, real world use, flare wasn’t a problem.

A typical strength of Fuji lenses is the color rendition, and that continues to be the case here.  Colors in this big landscape scene are nice:

Colors on a more intimate level are also good, with nice saturation levels.

Forest greens had a beautiful saturation level – not overdone or garish, but just right.

Optically, this lens is fairly good.  Sharpness isn’t exceptional, but it was good enough to produce nice looking images, and there aren’t any critical flaws to report.  If you are shooting one of the high-resolution bodies, you’ll have to decide just how much of a pixel peeper you are.  Thus far it has seemed to me that only the sharpest of Fuji primes are actually great on this demanding 40MP sensor, but the 18-120mm PZ doesn’t embarrass itself optically, either.  Check out the image gallery to see more  images for yourself and see if this is the lens for you.

Conclusion

I’m left with mixed emotions at the conclusion of my review period with the Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 LM WR PZ.  There are a number of things I genuinely like about the lens.  I love the zoom range, the constant maximum aperture, the quality weather sealed build, the good autofocus, and the internally zooming design.  But there are also a number of questionable design decisions that hold back the potential of the lens.  The decision to not include OIS will affect some Fuji shooters, and the inability to realize a parfocal lens really limits some of the video-specific elements.  Traditional photographers are unlikely to enjoy the zoom mechanics and the lack of an aperture ring.  And it’s a shame, as I think Fuji could have gone a more traditional route with this lens and really had a winner.

This the second PZ lens for Fuji, and it obviously occupies a much more premium space than the inexpensive 15-45mm PZ kit lens.  There is certain a market for powerzoom lenses, and this 18-120mm PZ is a vast improvement on the performance, build, autofocus, and focal range of the kit lens.  I also found the combination of the 18-120 and the new TG-BT1 tripod grip an interesting combination, as it gives you remote control of the powerzoom functionality.  It could be particularly useful for working off-camera.

The current price of the 18-120mm PZ sits at $899 USD.  That prices it above the more traditional Fujifilm XF 16-80mm F4 OIS lens.  There are things I prefer about the 18-120mm, but there’s no question that the 16-80mm will prove more popular with the photography crowd.  Some of the execution and ergonomic misses that I’ve detailed have lessened the excitement over this lens.  It’s unfortunate, as this is a lens that had a lot of potential.  There is a market for this lens, but I would only recommend buying if you are seriously interested in powerzoom.

 

Pros:

  • Well made lens 
  • Good build and weather sealing
  • Internally zooming – great for balancing on gimbal
  • Smooth, quiet autofocus
  • Great focal range
  • Constant aperture
  • Balances well on a gimbal
  • Can control powerzoom from gimbal or tripod grip
  • Bokeh quality fairly good for a big zoom ratio
  • Low levels of chromatic aberrations in most situations
  • Beautiful color rendition
  • Fairly good flare resistance

Cons:

  • No aperture ring
  • No OIS
  • No quick way to zoom
  • The lens is not parfocal
  • Bright conditions cause some fringing
  • Sharpness only okay

 

      Gear Used:

Purchase the Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-H2 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-T5 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Find it Used at KEH 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-S20 @ B&H Photo | Adorama  | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-S10 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

 

 

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  Keywords: 18-120mm, 18-120mm F4, XF 18-120mm F4, Fuji, Fuji 18-120mm Review, Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 Review, WR, LM, PZ, Powerzoom, F4, F/4, Fujinon, Fujifilm, X-H2, FujiFILM X-H2, X-H2 Review, X-T5, Fuji X-S20, Fuji X-H2 Review, Fujinon, Dustin Abbott, Review, Sensor, Tracking, Wide Angle, Stabilization, Eye AF, Viltrox, XF, Review, Hands On, Video Test, Sharpness, High ISO, Autofocus, Dynamic Range, 40MP, 40 MP, Lens, Comparison, Test, Dustinabbott.net, APS-C, X-Trans, letthelightin, DA

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 LM WR PZ Gallery

Dustin Abbott

July 20th, 2023

Powerzoom lenses are always a bit of the oddball in the room – caught between video and photography.  The PowerZoom function is most reminiscent of the focus on camcorders or similar video cameras, but the cameras that a PZ lens will be mounted on is, at its heart, a device designed first and foremost for photography.  Serious cinematographers tend to use more complex focus-follow systems and gearing for their systems, while many of those who are photographers first probably aren’t all that interested in the idea of zooming during video recording even if they do video.  That leaves a fairly small niche for these lenses, which in many ways is a shame, as the Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 LM WR PZ is, in many ways, the perfect all-in-one zoom for Fuji X-mount.  It has a great focal range (nearly 6.7x zoom ratio), a constant aperture of F4, quality autofocus via the linear motors, an internally zooming design, and fairly good optics throughout.  That focal range is so useful, going from 18mm (27mm full frame equivalence):

to 120mm (183mm full frame equivalence):

The vast, vast majority of photography subjects fall within this range, and I found the lens very useful as a walkaround lens.  I personally preferred it to either the 18-55mm F2.8-4 OIS or the 16-80mm F4 OIS (though surely some will dispute the latter), but that is with a major caveat:  I tested the lens on two bodies that have IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) – the Fujifilm X-H2 and the new X-S20.  The one acronym missing from the 18-120mm PZ’s description is OIS – which stands for Optical Image Stabilizer.  There is no in-lens stabilization, which is actually very rare for any Fuji zoom lenses with an aperture of F4.  If you own a body with IBIS, you may not miss it, but it is a very odd decision in a video specific lens considering how many of Fuji’s cameras don’t have IBIS.  Trying to get handheld video without stabilization is a nightmare!  This is a lens that should probably only be seriously considered by those that have a camera with IBIS.

If you do own such a camera, Fuji has developed some of the best IBIS systems out there.  My X-H2 held the viewfinder perfectly steady with the 18-120mm PZ zoomed out to 120mm, and I was able to easily get 120mm shots with 1/5th of a second shutter speeds (right over 5 stops) and some success going one stop lower to 0.5 second shutter speeds.

I’ve read a number of user reviews since this is a lens that has been on the market for a while before I’m actually reviewing it (it released in September 2022), and most of the criticisms seem to fall around the lack of OIS and some frustrations with the video specific aspects of the lens.  I actually feel like the lens would have been better received if they had gone a more conventional route and added OIS rather than the powerzoom functionality.  

There is some renewed interest in PZ lenses at the moment due to the release of the TG-BT1 Tripod Grip.  I’ve reviewed several such accessories in the past for other platforms, and they are very useful for Bluetooth control, extending your reach for vlogging, a quick tabletop tripod, and even for video capture where you have the major controls right at hand.  It’s particularly useful if you have one of the powerzoom lenses (like the kit lens 15-45mm OIS PZ) or the 18-120mm PZ as you can smoothly zoom in our out without grasping a ring of any kind.  This definitely adds some versatility and reminds me of using a remote to zoom my camcorder in years past.

I’ve reviewed the 18-120mm PZ on two different camera bodies.  One is the compact X-S20 body (which I reviewed here); the second is the larger, higher resolution X-H2 (my review here).  The X-H2 is the camera I’ve done the optical tests on, and it is the most demanding platform at the moment for any lens to be tested on.  So does this lens make sense?  You can read my thoughts in my text review, watch the video review below, or just enjoy the photos!

  https://youtu.be/OLA0yiOjwtg  

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Thanks to Fujifilm Canada for loaning me this lens for review.  As always, this is a completely independent review and my conclusions are my own.

 

Photos of the Fuji XF 18-120mm PZ 

 

Photos Taken with the Fuji XF 18-120mm PZ 

       

Gear Used:

Purchase the Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-H2 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-T5 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Find it Used at KEH 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-S20 @ B&H Photo | Adorama  | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-S10 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

 

 

Want to support this channel? Use these affiliate links to shop at: B&H Photo | Amazon | Adorama | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay | Make a donation via Paypal

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  Keywords: 18-120mm, 18-120mm F4, XF 18-120mm F4, Fuji, Fuji 18-120mm Review, Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 Review, WR, LM, PZ, Powerzoom, F4, F/4, Fujinon, Fujifilm, X-H2, FujiFILM X-H2, X-H2 Review, X-T5, Fuji X-S20, Fuji X-H2 Review, Fujinon, Dustin Abbott, Review, Sensor, Tracking, Wide Angle, Stabilization, Eye AF, Viltrox, XF, Review, Hands On, Video Test, Sharpness, High ISO, Autofocus, Dynamic Range, 40MP, 40 MP, Lens, Comparison, Test, Dustinabbott.net, APS-C, X-Trans, letthelightin, DA

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Fujinon XF 8mm F3.5 WR Review

Dustin Abbott

July 3rd, 2023

A prime lens with a maximum aperture of F3.5 rarely gets anyone excited, but the rules change when you are talking about a compact lens with an angle of view of 120°!  The Fujinon XF 8mm F3.5 R WR is a very welcome lens – a tiny wide angle prime with a full frame equivalent focal length of 12mm.  This extreme wide angle ties the large and expensive XF 8-16mm F2.8 (my review here) for the widest perspective available for Fuji’s X-mount.  This focal length, when used properly, allows you to get wonderfully dynamic images.

The two ways to get to 8mm on Fuji couldn’t be more different. The 8-16mm zoom weighs nearly 4x as much (805 vs 215g), is over twice as long (121.2 vs 55.8mm), and is over 20mm wider (88 vs 68mm).  The new 8mm prime allows you to use filters (62mm) where as the big zoom does not, and the little prime costs about half as much ($799 vs $1499 USD).  The zoom has great image quality, more focal length flexibility, and a larger maximum aperture.  This is two radically different approaches to this focal length, but I suspect there will be a lot of people who really appreciate being able to go this wide in such a small package.

I’ve reviewed the lens on two different camera bodies.  One is the compact X-S20 body (which I reviewed here); the second is the larger, higher resolution X-H2 (my review here).  The new XF 8mm is obviously a better size match to Fuji’s smaller cameras, where it adds little weight or bulk.

The XF 8mm certainly counts as a small but premium lens.  Were there some compromises to get that small size?  So should you add one to your kit?  We’ll try to answer those questions and more in this review.  If you would prefer to watch your reviews, you can choose to watch my definitive video review below…or just keep reading.

 

 

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Thanks to Fujifilm Canada for loaning me this lens for review.  As always, this is a completely independent review and my conclusions are my own.

Fuji XF 8mm Build and Handling

Fuji likes to essentially build the feature list of their lenses right into the name, so if you learn to “speak Fuji” you can quickly get a sense of what a lens does and does not have right from the name.  In this case, the name includes R and WR.

  • R = Ring, or specifically an aperture ring.
  • WR = Weather Resistance

Despite being small, Fuji found room to fit in the aperture ring, and obviously having a weather sealed design is incredibly important for a lens that will be used for a lot of outdoor photography where there, you know, weather!

The dimensions of the XF 8mm are 2.67 (D) x 2.07″ (L) / 68mm×52.8mm with a 62mm front filter thread size.  As noted, the weight comes in at 7.6 oz or 215g.  This is an extremely compact lens, particularly when one considers how wide a focal length is covered here.  Fuji managed that in part by not trying to go for an F2.8 aperture here.  That makes the lens a little less attractive for low light photography (or astrophotography), but isn’t a big deal for many of the typical subjects a wide angle lens like this will cover.  This is a great example of how good lens design can leverage the smaller sensor size that the lens is being developed for and provide the size of lens that you just won’t see on full frame.  It is dwarfed by the relatively compact Tamron 11-20mm F2.8 wide angle zoom:

The aperture ring is the Fuji standard.  It moves nicely with defined detents at the one third stop marks and with markings at the full stops (F1.4. F2, F2.8, etc…).  Rotate the lens all the way to the right and click the little button on the ring if you want to move into A (automatic) mode and control aperture from within the camera.

The manual focus ring works fairly well.  I could focus with fairly good precision and didn’t notice visible stepping despite being a focus by wire system.  The nature of a lens like this is that often a lot is in focus

The Fuji XF 8mm is a very nicely made lens despite its light weight.  It feels very “metal” and dense. The lens has a classic semi-glass black finish to it and is completed with thorough weather sealing (as already noted) that has a rear gasket and internal seals.

The included lens hood is is a petal shaped design that is fairly (but not extremely) shallow.

There are no switches on the barrel, as AF/MF is handled via a lever/button on Fuji camera bodies.  Thus far Fuji has nothing that is the equivalent of Sony’s “focus hold button” on their lenses, nor is there any option to declick the aperture.  There is also no lens based optical stabilization.  Both the X-H2 and X-S20 have good in-camera-image-stabilization, so I didn’t actually miss it, but if you are shooting with an older camera, you might.  

The minimum focus distance is 18cm, which produces a quite low magnification figure of 0.07x.  Here’s a look at MFD:

Up close performance is fairly good, with nice detail even if the magnification isn’t high.

Fuji sticks to a pretty consistent design formula for its XF lenses, and so there aren’t really any surprises here either good or bad.  Build quality is nice, with good materials, the rings work well, and the lens has a nice, quality feel to the construction.  I wouldn’t mind seeing Fuji advance the ball in terms of the feature set on its lenses, but neither is there anything “wrong” with what’s here.

Fujinon XF 8mm Autofocus Performance

The Fujinon XF 8mm F3.5 is not equipped with a linear focus motor, as Fuji obviously concluded that the small elements inside this tiny lens didn’t really need the extra power (and size) of a linear motor.  While Fuji doesn’t elaborate on the motor here, I suspect it is some kind of stepping (STM) motor that does the job of moving focus quickly and smoothly.  So much stays in focus all the time with such a wide angle lens (with a smaller maximum aperture) that there aren’t a lot of big focus changes needed most of the time anyway, so focus felt pretty instantaneous…and able to keep up when the subject gets way too close!

This shot highlights the nature of a wide angle lens like this.  This is rarely going to be a portrait lens unless you are looking for exaggerated and funny.  Anything close to the camera will be stretched and exaggerated.  The one exception to this rule is if you are shooting a big scene and just putting your subject relatively small and centered in it.  Look at how extreme this concrete corner is when I compose with it in the foreground:

Focus accuracy was generally good as well, delivering well focused results in the various shooting situations I was is in.

Outside of basically a meter of the lens, pretty much everything is going to be in focus, so the only focus issue I typically see with wide angle lenses is some pulsing.  I didn’t really encounter that here, however, so I just didn’t really think about autofocus during stills capture, which is the way you want it.

There was very little to do see when doing autofocus pulls.  There is so little focus changing during my typically pulls test that I had to put my hand up to the camera to give a more obvious focus change, but even in that there was relatively little change.  As a byproduct there is no real obvious focus movement (so very smooth) and no apparent focus breathing at all.  This would make for a very interesting gimbal lens if you wanted a wide angle of view and for pretty much everything to be in focus.  It would be very nice for interior walkthroughs for real estate, for example, or even for vlogging if you don’t mind a bit of a distorted look.

So while the XF 8mm doesn’t boast Fuji’s LM (Linear Motor) designation, it is because it doesn’t need it.  A quick look at their wide angle lenses show that they reserve the linear motors for the wide aperture zoom (8-16mm) or for large aperture primes (F1.4 lenses).  I’ve got nothing to complain about for autofocus; the focus system got the job done here.

Fuji XF 8mm Image Quality Breakdown

The Fuji XF 8mm has a surprisingly complex optical formula for such a tiny lens.  There are 12 elements in 9 groups, and this includes 3 aspherical and 2 ED elements.  The MTF chart shows a very strong performance in the center (near perfect), a good mid-frame performance, and some regression at the edges of the frame.

The extremely high resolution of the Fujifilm X-H2 (40.2MP) that I’m reviewing the lens on is essentially the most optically demanding platform I review on right now, offering much greater pixel density than the 61MP Sony a7RV or Fujifilm GF100S and its 100MP medium format sensor.  I have quickly seen that not every lens holds up well to the demands of this sensor, but the XF 8mm does pretty well.

Fuji’s correction profiles are typically quite good, but I’ll turn them off to take a look at the actual lens performance when it comes to vignette and distortion.  There is (unsurprisingly) a strong amount of barrel distortion present along with significant vignetting.

I’ve seen much worse distortion, though obviously this amount will definitely spoil images if not corrected.  My manual correction (shown on the right above) has a +25 to correct the barrel distortion and a +76 to correct for vignette. The correction profile does all of this easily either in camera for JPEG/Video or in software for RAW files, and I felt the correction profile in Lightroom did a cleaner job with the distortion than what I could do manually, though I did feel it was overly aggressive in cropping the image.  Here’s a look at that result:

You’ll see that my manual correction earlier got rid of the distortion fairly well while leaving a lot more image.  My recommendation:  if you want the extra width in your shot, do a manual correction instead. 

How about chromatic aberrations?  When I went looking for longitudinal chromatic aberrations, I was essentially unable to find them.  A wide angle lens like this with a relatively small maximum aperture is rarely going to have an issue with fringing before or after the plane of focus because the plane of focus is so large.  You can see on these white blossoms that there are no apparent fringing issues:

The more common issue for wide angle lenses is lateral chromatic aberrations that show up near the edge of the frame in high transition areas.  That doesn’t seem to be an issue here even with corrections turned off.  The edges of the frame show no fringing in this real world shot.

Here’s a look at my test chart that the crops came from (40MP images from the X-H2):

Here’s a look at F3.5 crops (about 175% magnification) from the center, mid-frame, and corner:

We see essentially what the MTF chart shows:  a very sharp center, a good mid-frame, and a drop to the corners…though not to unusable levels.  Over most of the frame the lens is pretty much equally sharp at F3.5 as it is at a smaller aperture like F5.6.  Here’s a look at 100% magnification of a real world shot of beautifully aged wood on the side of a barn – not much to distinguish between wide open and stopped down a bit:

Stopping down to F4 produces little difference over most of the frame, though the corners are slightly improved (and brighter!).  A more significant difference in the corners can be seen by F5.6 (here at 200% magnification):

By F8 diffraction on my high resolution X-H2 essentially stops any further gains, with F5.6 and F8 looking largely the same.  The corners never quite reach the levels of the center of the frame.  I can’t blame that entirely on the ultra high resolution, however, as even on the 26MP X-S20 results aren’t as sharp in the corners.

To put things in perspective, however, it is extremely difficult to engineer such a wide angle lens with excellent corner sharpness.  I’ve seen plenty of ultra wide angle lenses whose corners were mush…which isn’t the case here.  The expensive 8-16mm F2.8 is very slightly better mid-frame, but very slightly worse in the corners, so if you want to go this wide, this is essentially as good of corner performance as you’re going to get.  Images looks quite good to my eye, too, with good sharpness across the frame except maybe that last little percentage in the extreme corners.

Minimum aperture is F22, but on most cameras diffraction is going to really play havoc with contrast and acuity.  Things look pretty soft by comparison even with F3.5:

Bokeh quality is not really a major concern with a lens like this, as it is pretty difficult to create a blurred out background.  I was quite close to these flowers, but you can see that the further objects really aren’t all that out of focus.

In this shot of Nala you can see a lot of outlining in the trees beyond.  

That’s just a strength of a lens this wide, and frankly, not all that important, as you buy a lens like this more to have a lot IN focus rather than to try to create out of focus areas.

Far more important is flare resistance, as this wide of an angle of view is often going to have bright lights in the frame.  At wider apertures flare resistance is quite good (first image), though at smaller apertures there are few ghosting blobs of multicolored light (images 2 and 3).  Nothing terrible, however.

A great strength of Fuji lenses tends to be their color rendition, and I did find colors really nice.  Images looked quite rich:

Forest greens had a beautiful saturation level – not overdone or garish, but just right.

Images had a nice punch to them that I appreciate.

This spring/summer has been a difficult season for astrophotography in Eastern Canada due to the wildfires that are leaving haze and smoke in the air all the time, so I didn’t get any astro images.  The maximum aperture of F3.5 doesn’t make this a top choice for astrophotography, anyway, but I would have liked to have seen the stars a bit! 

Overall, however, I was very pleased with the XF 8mm.  It packs good image quality into an amazingly compact package.  It’s a LONG way to my shoes with a lens this wide! 

Check out the image gallery to see more  images for yourself and see if this is the lens for you.

Conclusion

The Fujinon XF 8mm F3.5 WR is evidence that there are still some unique lenses for Fuji to build for their X-mount platform, and I feel like they’ve nailed the formula here.  The XF 8mm is small enough to fit on the smaller X cameras while being strong enough optically to work on the high resolution monsters.  

One has to have a different eye for composition when shooting with a lens this wide.  You’ll often have to get closer than what you’d expect.  In the shot below, the bright leaves at the top of the shot were literally above my head at the time I clicked the shutter.

I know that there is a lot of interest in the XF 8mm from both photographers and videographers.  I can see only one potential problem, and that’s price.  Such a small lens with a maximum aperture of F3.5 that retails for $799 USD or $1079 CDN is going to seem expensive to some.  So many third party lenses are coming out now at lower price points (though none quite like this!), and sometimes very small lenses seem expensive in the strange sense that we often equate size with value.  Put another way, it is easier for people to perceive a large lens as premium and deserving of a higher price than a small lens.  But once people have paid the money, they are going to love having this extreme perspective in such a small, portable package.  The XF 8mm is a very welcome new lens to the Fuji platform, particularly when it actually fills a need that no other lens is filling at the moment.  

 

Pros:

  • Well made lens in a compact package
  • Good build and weather sealing
  • Extremely compact for such a wide perspective
  • Ties for the widest perspective on X-mount.
  • Autofocus is smooth and quiet
  • Good center and mid-frame sharpness from F3.5 on
  • Low levels of chromatic aberrations
  • Beautiful color rendition
  • Fairly good flare resistance

Cons:

  • No declick option or physical controls other than aperture ring
  • Some strong barrel distortion
  • Corners never get extremely sharp

     

Gear Used:

Purchase the Fujinon XF 8mm F3.5 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-H2 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-T5 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Find it Used at KEH 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-S20 @ B&H Photo | Adorama  | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Fujifilm X-S10 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Fujinon XF 18-120mm F4 @ B&H Photo | Adorama | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

 

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