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Brightin Star 16mm F2.8 Review (M-Mount via Techart)

Dustin Abbott

October 10th, 2022

Brightin Star is one of many startup lens companies that is trying to make a name for themselves.  I’ve reviewed a couple of their lenses previously, starting with a budget wide angle 12mm F2 for APS-C (my review here) and then a full frame 50mm F0.95 (my review here).  Two different extremes, obviously.  When they reached out to me about the new Brightin Star 16mm F2.8 which is the subject of today’s review, I was mostly intrigued when I saw that one of the mount options was Leica M-mount.  That’s not because I own an M-mount camera (I don’t), but because a few months ago I reviewed the Techart LM-EA9 adapter which allows me to convert manual focus M-mount lenses to autofocusing Sony E-mount lenses.  I had tested it with vintage lenses, but the idea of being to add function to a modern lens was very interesting.  By the way, it turns out that the Brightin Star 16 is a perfect candidate for the Techart, as the wide focal length means that I didn’t have to mess with adjusting the focus ring at all.  I just set it to infinity and shot my images whether near or far.

While I went for the M-mount in this case, the lens is also available in Sony E-mount, Nikon Z-mount, Canon RF mount, and Leica L along with M mounts.  The price ranges from $249 for most mounts to $289 for the M-mount version that I’m testing.  That’s inexpensive for a nicely made frame lens with a wide 105° angle of view lens that makes my feet look far away…

But is the lens itself worth buying?  Find out the full picture in my video review below or by reading the text review that follows.

 

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Thanks to Brightin Star for sending me a review sample of the lens. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and most of the photos that I share as a part of my review cycle have been done with the Sony a7IV along with the Sony Alpha 1 which will serve as my benchmark camera for the foreseeable future (my review here).

Brightin Star 16 Build and Handling

The Brightin Star 16 is a nicely compact lens for a full frame ultra wide angle.  It is only 78mm in diameter, which leaves a relatively common 72mm front filter thread.  The design of the fixed metal lens hood (not removable) leaves almost no room in there to actually mount and remove filters, however.  I tried putting on a filter but gave up because A) it was going to require more effort than I wanted and B) because I had some fears over not being able to easily remove the filter after I threaded it on.  I would suggest only mounting a filter if you felt it was one you would either want to leave permanently in place or at the least have no immediate plans to remove it.

The lens is only 83mm in length, about 14mm longer than the extremely compact Canon RF 16mm F2.8 STM that I recently reviewed.  The Brightin Star has a considerably higher quality of build materials, however, and that all metal and glass construction makes it much heavier at 480g than the svelte 165g of the Canon.

The details of the Brightin Star 16 are nice, with a handsome anodized metal finish and a stylish diamond pattern to the two rings.

The first ring is the manual focus ring, which turns smoothly but with fairly heavy damping in my copy.  The full rotation is about 115° from minimum focus to infinity.  The distance scale markings (along with hyperfocal markings in the barrel section in between the two rings) are etched and not just painted on.

The aperture ring also has heavy damping and is clickless.  The traditional full stop markings (from F2.8 to F22) are marked.

Inside there are 8 aperture blades that are straight to allow for crisp sunstars to emerge fairly early on.  The 8 bladed sunstars look fantastic.

Minimum focus distance is 30cm, which is not particularly close.  I estimate the amount of magnification at somewhere around 0.11x, though I couldn’t find a specification giving that information.

The detail and contrast up close is quite good, however, and starting from a bit further away results in a flatter plane of focus.  Close up images actually look very nice, in my opinion.

This is a manual everything lens, so there are no electronic contacts and no weather sealing.  The fixed lens hood means that the cap design is one that slips over the lens hood, but fortunately it remains fairly shallow and doesn’t take up a lot of additional room.

I would have preferred lighter damping on the two rings (perhaps they will loosen up more with use), but the build quality is overall quite nice for an inexpensive lens.

Brightin Star 16 Image Quality

The optical design of the lens is 12 elements in 11 groups, and, as this diagram shows, that includes two Low Dispersion elements along with 2 High Diffraction elements.  

That results in an MTF chart that looks quite good in the center and mid-frame, but drops off steeply into the corners.

At its best, as we’ll see, the lens is capable of nicely detailed images with good color and high contrast.

That’s not to say there aren’t flaws, however.

We see two of them when we inspect vignette and distortion.  The quantity of distortion is quite low (nothing like the shocking amount of barrel distortion seen in the Canon 16mm F2.8), but it also fairly complex with a strong “mustache” type pattern.

Because this is a third party lens without electronics, you won’t get profile corrections, and, as you can see, the ability to manually correct this distortion in Lightroom doesn’t work particularly well (.  The good news is that the distortion isn’t severe, so in most “normal” images I didn’t see it at all.  If you shoot a brick wall, however, it will definitely show up.

Shooting the kitchen after doing dishes showed few issues with lines (there’s no corrections to this image):

Vignette is also very heavy and required near maximum sliders to correct for it.  It does diminish as you stop the lens down, but never goes away.  I did note some color cast in the corrected vignette area on a white background.  I didn’t notice any issue in my normal images right now, but I would notice it if I were correcting images in winter where the corners are white with snow.

My charts did reveal some lateral chromatic aberrations near the edge of the frame, but I saw little longitudinal chromatic aberrations in shallow depth of field images.  You can see only minimal fringing in this up close shot of bees on wildflowers (along with an interesting bit of swirling bokeh).

I did my typical torture test for sharpness and contrast, using a high resolution 50MP Sony Alpha 1 as my test camera and examining the results at 200% magnification.  Here’s that test chart:

…and here are the crops from the center, mid-frame, and bottom right corner at nearly 200% magnification.

We see that center and mid-frame sharpness is okay at F2.8, but the corners drop off hard.  Contrast is not exceptional.

Stopped down to F4 shows a strong improvement across the frame save the edges of the frame.

By F5.6 IQ is looking very good, and it is excellent across the frame at F8, where sharpness peaks.  

Real world images at these landscape apertures look great, with a lot of detail and contrast.  There’s a bit of drop-off near the edges, but all told it looks quite good.

Minimum aperture is F22, but diffraction negatively impacts sharpness across the frame (as it typically does).  In most places F2.8 looks better by comparison, though the improvements in the corners outweigh diffraction at F22.  I typically suggest using F11 as a practical limit on most lenses and with most cameras.

Bokeh quality is not bad for wide angle.  There’s more outlining than what is preferred, but you can get close to subjects and produce reasonably soft backgrounds.

The flare resistance is a mixed bag, with the performance really depending on where the sun is positioned.  Compose wisely, however, and the amazing sunbursts will be the standout.

This will almost certainly be considered by some as a budget astrophotography lens, and it doesn’t embarrass itself on that front.  For the most part star points are nice and crisp, though there is some coma deformation of bright star points near the edge of the frame.

So not a flawless optical performance, but this is a “real lens”, capable of producing very sharp images when stopped down, and I was fairly impressed by closer distance images at F2.8 where the corners didn’t really matter.  You can see a few more images in the gallery here:

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Brightin Star 16mm F2.8 is a viable option for those looking for a wide angle lens on a budget.  Those of you like myself who have invested in a Techart adapter should be genuinely interested in the M-mount version because it enables you to have a relatively functional autofocusing wide angle prime on the cheap.  Image quality isn’t L-series or G Master quality, but it is certainly good enough to produce a lot of lovely images.

The build quality of the lens is nice, the size is nice and compact, 

Those that are interested in filmmaking or cinema lenses but have a tight budget will surely find the Spectrum series from 7Artisans of interest if this Spectrum 50 is any indication.  It is well made, nicely performing, and, perhaps most importantly, affordable. 

Pros:

  • Very nice build quality
  • Excellent price
  • Excellent sharpness when stopped down
  • Beautiful sunbursts
  • Good up close performance

Cons:

  • Corners are soft until F5.6
  • Complex distortion
  • Heavy vignette
  • No electronics
  • Using filters is difficult

 

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Keywords: Brightin Star 16mm, Brightin Star, 16mm, F2.8, Full Frame, Review, Sony Alpha 1, Sony a7IV, Review, Hands On, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Sharpness, Bokeh, Flare Resistance, Autofocus, Image Quality, Sample Images, Video, Photography, Leica, L Mount, M mount, Techart, Canon RF, Nikon Z, Sony E, Sony a7IV, Sony Alpha 1, Sony A1, let the light in, #letthelightin, DA

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Laowa 90mm F2.8 APO 2x Macro Review

Dustin Abbott

June 13th, 2022

Earlier in 2022 I revisited the Laowa 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro because when I had initially reviewed it in 2019, my review was conducted on an EF mount lens on a Canon 5D Mark IV DSLR and was interested in how it performed in the transition to mirrorless.  I did a fresh review on the Canon EOS R5, and I found that the experience of using the lens was a lot more fun on mirrorless, and the image quality remains incredible on the high resolution 45Mp sensor of the R5.  I liked the lens enough on the R5 that I ended up purchasing one.  I had one significant complaint, however, and that was that the lens was much larger than it needed to be.  Additional length was added to the lens barrel to accommodate the difference in the flange distance (necessary distance from sensor to optical path) as the lens was optically engineered for DSLRs.  Lenses purpose designed for mirrorless have the potential to actually be smaller and lighter, but a lens designed for DSLRs has to have some space added (essentially like an adapter without glass) to have focus properly calibrated on mirrorless cameras.  Laowa apparently recognized the same thing, as they are back with a new and improved lens specifically designed for mirrorless mounts in the form of the Laowa 90mm F2.8 APO 2x Macro (hereafter referred to the Laowa 90M for brevity).  No, the focal lengths aren’t identical, but this lens is very similar in performance to the 100mm, but, because it was designed for mounts like Canon RF (tested here), Sony E, Leica L, or Nikon Z, it is significantly smaller and and a bit lighter, as you can see here.

I measured the RF version of the Laowa 100m at 155mm in length and 72mm in diameter.  I personally weighed it at 696g.  The new Laowa 90M is (by my measurement) 115mm in length, 74mm in diameter, and weighs 589g.  That’s a big difference, and you aren’t really going to find a smaller and lighter macro lens on the Canon RF platform, much less one made all of metal and glass like this one.  I’ll also note that I much prefer the shape of this lens to the long, skinny profile of the 100mm lens.

The Laowa 90M is a fully manual lens without any electronics.  That may immediately turn many of you off, but manual focus on a macro lens is far less of a penalty than most lenses.  Many macro photographers actually prefer manual focus for the great precision it affords, and I can say for the most part really, really enjoyed using the Laowa 90M on my Canon EOS R5.  There are a variety of reasons, but the first thing that stands out to me is the great viewfinder and LCD screen on the R5 that makes using manual focus lenses so much more fun.  A really sharp lens like the Laowa means that focus overlays (I use focus peaking in red and set on the “high” level”) show up very crisply in the high resolution viewfinder, and I found that focusing in most situations (more on that in a moment) was really, really easy.  I rarely felt like I had to magnify the image at close to medium focus distances, which meant that the focus process was very organic and quick.  The crisp LCD screen means that high resolution, high contrast images like this lens can produce really just pop off the screen, which made my shooting time out in the field feel very rewarding.  Finally, the addition of IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) means even a manual everything lens like this gets decent stabilization (I manually input the focal length to get the best performance).  Having a stabilized macro lens only adds versatility to this lens, and the Laowa RF90M is exceptionally sharp and has very high contrast due to its Apochromatic (APO) design. Apochromatic designs allow colors to be focused more accurately/consistently, resulting in much lower levels of chromatic aberrations and thus higher contrast than typical lens designs.  Images from this lens really “pop”!

The Laowa 90M macro combines that apochromatic (APO) optical design (typically seen on very expensive lenses) with a 2x macro ratio of 2:1 rather than 1:1 life size.  This means that while most macro lenses can only achieve this level of magnification:

…the Laowa 90M can achieve this level of magnification:

And it is no gimmick, either, as macro performance at the 2:1 ratio remains very high, as you can see.

This isn’t a perfect lens (I miss not having any electronics in the lens), but it allows for an optical performance right up there close to Zeiss Otus range, has a (mostly) excellent build, 2x magnification, and a price tag of around $500 USD.  That’s a winning combination, and that price point dramatically undercuts the first party options…so this will definitely be a very tempting option for your Canon RF, Sony FE, Leica L, or Nikon Z mirrorless camera.  You can get the full picture by either watching my video review below or reading on to get the full picture.

 

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Thanks to Laowa for sending me a review loaner of this lens. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and the photos shown in this review have been taken on my 45 MP Canon EOS R5.

Laowa 90M Build and Handling

Laowa lenses have always been nicely made with full metal construction.  That trend continues here, with the lens made entirely of metal and glass.  They’ve done a good job of balancing the weight, however, as the lens weighs in at a moderate 1.3 lb (589g) despite the heavy grade construction.  The lens has a very attractive, premium look and feel to it.

The lens hood (as per usual for Laowa lenses) is the weakest part of the build, as it is very ordinary grade plastics and doesn’t bayonet on as precisely as what I like.  It was even worse initially, but is improving a bit with some use.

The focus travel is quite extensive (about 210°) and while there continues to be extensive internal movement of the elements during focus, there is a definite improvement over the 100M design.  Laowa took an interesting path of protecting the internal elements in the 100M by making a UV filter an actual part of the design.  I have never loved this design element, and Laowa has elected to go with a more conventional design with the 90M where the front element is a part of the lens design and protects the front opening of the barrel.  

This lens does not have weather sealing, but the fact that it is internally focusing and has no electronics means that there is perhaps less risk of damage, though those of you who shoot in either very moist or very dusty conditions will probably wish for weather sealing.

Minimum focus distance focus is only 20.7cm (8.14″), and when you consider than the lens takes up 13.5cm of that (there’s some extra length as that MFD is measured from the sensor of the camera), that leaves only about 7cm of distance to work with.  The hood would take up about 6cm of that, so you’ll definitely want to remove it when working at 2x magnification levels.  Here’s a look at the amount of magnification from my test chart subject (test chart shown a little later on) that you get at 2:1:

It’s worth noting that the laws of physics dictate that light transmission at close focus distances diminishes (effective aperture changes), and that’s even more obvious with the additional magnification of the Laowa 90M.  Put simply, the image will get darker when you focus closer (think 2-3 stops).  Very high magnification requires good light, so bear that in mind when doing serious macro work.

There is a manual aperture ring here with light detents at the full stops and a lot of room in between the early stops for selecting a partial stop.  Unlike the 100M in mirrorless guise, the aperture ring is in a much better location near the lens mount where you are less likely to inadvertently grab it.

The wide manual focus ring that is finely ribbed in metal.  It moves smoother than the 100M and has a longer focus throw (one of my complaints about the 100M).  I found getting precision focus at distances other than macro easier on the 90M than the 100M.  Laowa is paying attention to the details here, and the byproduct is a more usable lens.

I found that focus was pretty simple at most distances, and it was only at landscape differences that I felt like I needed to double-check focus by magnifying the image, as I did see some false positives from focus peaking and the fact that a little adjustment makes for a big change at longer distances.  The lens has a lovely feel for doing video focus pulls, with a nicely damped focus action that produces easily repeatable results.  As with most macro lenses, there is some very obvious focus breathing at close distances.

We get a very high aperture blade count of 13 blades in the aperture iris, and that helps maintain a beautifully circular shape even when stopped down.  The aperture makes for a fine photo subject itself (shot here with the Laowa 100M): 

The lens has a distinctive blue accent ring at the front of the lens, a 67mm front filter threading, and a lovely anodized metal finish that looks premium.  I like the sculpted profile that flares out to the focus ring (making it nice to touch ergonomically), and the high contrast etched distance markings and aperture values make this feel like a premium lens.

The Laowa 90M has build quality that punches way over its price point of $499 USD.  I’d like to see weather sealing, but that might be quibbling.  I also would really like to see Laowa find a way to include electronic contacts on their lenses in the future so that basic EXIF information can be communicated.  I found some disappointing shortcomings on the Canon RF 100mm F2.8L Macro IS (along with its $1400 price) that make the Laowa a very intriguing alternative.

Laowa RF90M Image Quality

Image quality is often an area of strength for an APO (Apochromatic) lens, and that’s true of the Laowa 90M.  A lens with an Apochromatic design has better correction of chromatic and spherical aberration than the much more common achromat lenses. Put simply, most lenses struggle with the fact that colors don’t always focus at the same distance, which results in green or purple (red) fringing due to the fact that those colors aren’t focusing on the same plane of focus. Whereas most lenses are corrected for two color wavelengths (typically red and blue), an apochromatic lens is able to bring three color wavelengths into focus on the same focus plane. This produces a near absence of chromatic aberrations and allows for higher contrast and a near absence of the veiling (lack of contrast) that produces “soft” images. True apochromatic lenses tend to be very sharp and very contrasty. They also are corrected for spherical aberrations on two wavelengths rather than one.  I owned some excellent APO lenses, including the Zeiss Milvus 135mm F2 and the Voigtländer 65mm F2, and I’ve tested a number of other ones.  Images with amazing “pop” like this are something I come to expect from lenses like this.

There is typically only one downside to APO lenses, and that is the intense contrast and lack of chromatic aberrations can have the negative impact of more hard edges in the bokeh (defocused) areas of the image.  Some of the best “bokeh lenses” are those with some uncorrected aberrations, which help produce a softer, creamier defocused area.  The trend generally remains true here, though frankly this lens is better than many in that way.  This is the busiest I could get of the bokeh.

The transition zone there is fairly busy, but if I move a little closer, everything looks very creamy:

We’ll circle back to the bokeh with more shots in a moment, but let’s break down some of the optical performance.  We’ll start with vignette and distortion.

There’s little to see on the distortion front.  I had nothing to correct for in terms of distortion (the 100mm had just the mildest amount of pincushion distortion: -2 to correct for manually).  Vignette was also less   Vignette was a little heavier, requiring only a +33 (vs +62) to correct it.  The Canon RF 100mm F2.8L Macro IS had a minor amount of distortion and just a tiny bit more vignette – largely similar.

The advantage of an Apochromatic design for macro work is obvious if we look at a macro shot of some shiny surfaces.  You can see that the Laowa’s APO design is completely free of any fringing, leaving very neutral textures, bokeh without any fringing outlining, and extremely high contrast.  These are very shiny, reflective surfaces on an old Pentax Spotmatic, and this is definitely a place where you’d often see fringing.

There’s also no fringing to be seen in these bokeh circles created by dew with the morning light shining through them.

I also saw no evidence of any lateral chromatic aberrations in any of my test photos, though I would have been shocked to have found any from this lens.  Edges of the image are nice and clean:

So how about sharpness?  Here’s a look at my chart globally at F2.8, taken with the 45MP Canon EOS R5:

And here are the F2.8 crops at nearly 200% magnification, taken from the center, then mid-frame, and then extreme lower right corner:

What I see is fantastic center sharpness, excellent midframe sharpness, and good extreme corner performance.

So, how does that compare to the 100m?  In the center of the frame, it is hard to pick a winner, though I do think the Laowa 90M shows a little more contrast and resolution (which shows up in part as the false-color moiré pattern on the ship’s prow).

Move out to the midframe, however, and I think the 90M is the easy winner:

The two lenses are mostly similar in the corners at F2.8.  If you stop down a bit (F5.6), the two lenses are largely indistinguishable, though as I look across the frame I give a minor edge to the 90M for consistency (and excellence). It is not a major difference, but there is some optical improvement (at least in the two copies I’ve tested).

If you examine the image from the Laowa 90M at F5.6 the contrast and resolution all across the frame shows just enough improvement to be at exceptional levels.

Minimum aperture is F22, though I would avoid F16 and smaller if possible because the effects of diffraction really soften the image.  Your peak apertures will be F2.8-F11.

These Laowa macros are no “paper tigers” either. They look even sharper in real world images due to the APO design and the elimination of aberrations.  I just love the “pop” and clarity of this image of spring tulips on the table.  You can see how the colors really stand out due to the exceptional contrast.

Or how about the detail on this opening freesia blossom?

Step back a few feet, and the detail is just as striking on these beech leaves above.

I love this 2x macro image where I’ve shot through the “clocks” of a dandelion to the pod inside.

My point is that macro is fun (ordinary things look extraordinary at a macro level), and that the Laowa 90M has some of the best image quality you are going to find at this price point.

You’ll also get amazing landscape images due to that intense contrast.

I sometimes complain about Laowa colors on their wide angle lenses being a little “flat” for my tastes, but that hasn’t been the case with their telephoto lenses.  I’ve liked the color from the 105mm F2 Transfocus lens, the 1oomm lens, the 65mm F2 Macro, and this 90mm lens as well.  I find that Apochromatic lenses produce really intriguing color because of the deep contrast levels, and so images look great:

That punch also gives images a three-dimensional feel, where the subject really stands out against the background.

You’ve probably noticed from these images that the bokeh is actually pretty nice from the lens, and you can get close enough to subjects to REALLY make the background disappear…even if they are just a few centimeters away.

 

At a little further distance there is some potential for some busyness, but it still isn’t bad.

Like the 100mm macro, the Laowa 90M isn’t entirely flare resistant.  I have found that the real world flare artifacts are more artistic here, though, including some interesting veiling with the sun coming through the leaves here:

Or how about this interesting prismatic effect from the sun filtering down into the frame?

I found these random flare pops my least favorite, but I wouldn’t call them a deal breaker either.

I rarely point telephotos right at the sun, but pay attention to your composition so that you get the good and not the bad!

All in all, however, this lens is an amazing optical performer for the price.  There are few lenses that deliver better results on a technical level, and I found that I had more “standout” images than in my typical review catalog for a lens.  This is a winner!  If you would like to see more images, check out my image gallery here.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I’m delighted with the Laowa 90mm F2.8 APO 2x Macro.  While it is very similar in many ways to the 100mm F2.8 APO 2x Macro, there are a variety of subtle improvements that address my main critiques of that lens.  This includes a more compact lens due to being purposefully designed for mirrorless (along with a more pleasing shape), a fixed front element (instead of an added filter), a longer focus throw, and a slightly better feeling focus ring.  I enjoyed using the 100M; I like using the 90M even more.  I also feel like it has a few minor optical upgrades, and it delivered image after image that I really loved.

And, as a macro lens, it’s additional degree of magnification allows you to do things that lesser lenses cannot.  2:1 macro is MUCH closer than 1:1 macro, which unlocks an extra level of creativity, and that Apochromatic design allows you to shoot shiny metal textures without fear of chromatic aberrations destroying the image.

When you look at the price tag (about $500 USD) relative to the competing lenses, the Laowa really starts to feel like a great value, particularly if you tend to do your macro work utilizing manual focus anyway.  This is a top notch value lens, and should be near the top of your macro list if you own a Canon, Sony, Nikon, or Leica mirrorless body.

Pros:

  • Nice build quality in general
  • Apochromatic design at a low price
  • Twice the magnification of most competing macro lenses
  • Good contrast 
  • Excellent chromatic aberration control
  • Colors have great punch
  • Excellent, consistent optical performance across the frame
  • Great real world macro performance
  • Good focus throw distance
  • More compact design than the 100mm

Cons:

  • A bit flare prone
  • Lens hood doesn’t fit well
  • No electronics or weather sealing

 

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Keywords: laowa 90mm, laowa 90 macro, laowa 2x macro, laowa, 90mm, F2.8, 2.8 Macro, 2X Macro, 2:1 Macro, APO, Apochromatic, Laowa 90mm Macro Review, Laowa 90 2x Macro Review, APO 90mm, 100mm, Review, Dustin Abbott, Portrait, Canon RF, Canon EOS R5, RF, Sharpness, Resolution, Bokeh, Video Test, Sample Images, Real World, Macro, 45Mp, Canon, Letthelightin

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Laowa 90mm F2.8 APO Macro 2x Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

June 13th, 2022

Earlier in 2022 I revisited the Laowa 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro because when I had initially reviewed it in 2019, my review was conducted on an EF mount lens on a Canon 5D Mark IV DSLR and was interested in how it performed in the transition to mirrorless.  I did a fresh review on the Canon EOS R5, and I found that the experience of using the lens was a lot more fun on mirrorless, and the image quality remains incredible on the high resolution 45Mp sensor of the R5.  I liked the lens enough on the R5 that I ended up purchasing one.  I had one significant complaint, however, and that was that the lens was much larger than it needed to be.  Additional length was added to the lens barrel to accommodate the difference in the flange distance (necessary distance from sensor to optical path) as the lens was optically engineered for DSLRs.  Lenses purpose designed for mirrorless have the potential to actually be smaller and lighter, but a lens designed for DSLRs has to have some space added (essentially like an adapter without glass) to have focus properly calibrated on mirrorless cameras.  Laowa apparently recognized the same thing, as they are back with a new and improved lens specifically designed for mirrorless mounts in the form of the Laowa 90mm F2.8 APO 2x Macro.  No, the focal lengths aren’t identical, but this lens is very similar in performance to the 100mm, but, because it was designed for mounts like Canon RF (tested here), Sony E, Leica L, or Nikon Z, it is significantly smaller and and a bit lighter, as you can see here.

I measured the RF version of the Laowa 100m at 155mm in length and 72mm in diameter.  I personally weighed it at 696g.  The new Laowa APO 90mm macro is (by my measurement) 115mm in length, 74mm in diameter, and weighs 589g.  That’s a big difference, and you aren’t really going to find a smaller and lighter macro lens on the Canon RF platform, much less one made all of metal and glass like this one.  I’ll also note that I much prefer the shape of this lens to the long, skinny profile of the 100mm lens.

The Laowa APO 90mm is a fully manual lens without any electronics.  That may immediately turn many of you off, but manual focus on a macro lens is far less of a penalty than most lenses.  Many macro photographers actually prefer manual focus for the great precision it affords, and I can say for the most part really, really enjoyed using the Laowa 90M on my Canon EOS R5.  There are a variety of reasons, but the first thing that stands out to me is the great viewfinder and LCD screen on the R5 that makes using manual focus lenses so much more fun.  A really sharp lens like the Laowa means that focus overlays (I use focus peaking in red and set on the “high” level”) show up very crisply in the high resolution viewfinder, and I found that focusing in most situations (more on that in a moment) was really, really easy.  I rarely felt like I had to magnify the image at close to medium focus distances, which meant that the focus process was very organic and quick.  The crisp LCD screen means that high resolution, high contrast images like this lens can produce really just pop off the screen, which made my shooting time out in the field feel very rewarding.  Finally, the addition of IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) means even a manual everything lens like this gets decent stabilization (I manually input the focal length to get the best performance).  Having a stabilized macro lens only adds versatility to this lens, and the Laowa APO 90mm is exceptionally sharp and has very high contrast due to its Apochromatic (APO) design. Apochromatic designs allow colors to be focused more accurately/consistently, resulting in much lower levels of chromatic aberrations and thus higher contrast than typical lens designs.  Images from this lens really “pop”!

The Laowa 90M macro combines that apochromatic (APO) optical design (typically seen on very expensive lenses) with a 2x macro ratio of 2:1 rather than 1:1 life size.  This means that while most macro lenses can only achieve this level of magnification:

…the Laowa 90M can achieve this level of magnification:

And it is no gimmick, either, as macro performance at the 2:1 ratio remains very high, as you can see.

This isn’t a perfect lens (I miss not having any electronics in the lens), but it allows for an optical performance right up there close to Zeiss Otus range, has a (mostly) excellent build, 2x magnification, and a price tag of around $500 USD.  That’s a winning combination, and that price point dramatically undercuts the first party options…so this will definitely be a very tempting option for your Canon RF, Sony FE, Leica L, or Nikon Z mirrorless camera.  You can get the full picture by either watching my video review below or reading my text review here…or just enjoy the photos below!

 

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Thanks to Laowa for sending me a review loaner of this lens. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and the photos shown in this review have been taken on my 45 MP Canon EOS R5.

Images of the Laowa APO 90mm F2.8 2x Macro

Images from the Laowa APO 90mm F2.8 2x Macro

 

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Keywords: laowa 90mm, laowa 90 macro, laowa 2x macro, laowa, 90mm, F2.8, 2.8 Macro, 2X Macro, 2:1 Macro, APO, Apochromatic, Laowa 90mm Macro Review, Laowa 90 2x Macro Review, APO 90mm, 100mm, Review, Dustin Abbott, Portrait, Canon RF, Canon EOS R5, RF, Sharpness, Resolution, Bokeh, Video Test, Sample Images, Real World, Macro, 45Mp, Canon, Letthelightin

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NiSi V7 Landscape Filter System Review + Gallery

Dustin Abbott

March 31st, 2022

My first encounter with the company NiSi was actually to review their first lens.  NiSi has historically been a company that has made filters for other people’s lenses, and a search of their products shows a lot of filters with very high reviews.  But at some point they clearly decided that their optical glass expertise could just as easily go into the construction of lenses themselves, which has produced the very intriguing NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH lens.  That positive experience made me open to checking out NiSi’s main event – filters and filter systems.  I’ve been testing their new V7 Filter System over the past few months in a variety of environments; from the Arctic temperature of Canada in deep winter:

…to the sun-kissed beaches of South Carolina:

The V7 Filter System proved to be a great companion in both environments, and I’ll quickly break down why in mini-review.  If you want a deeper dive into the review, I would recommend watching my video review.  It’s easier to visually demonstrate some things rather than just describing them.

The NiSi V7 Filter System is not designed around adding filters to certain lenses that cannot use traditional screw-in filters.  One of the earliest such systems that I reviewed was for adding filters to the Samyang 14mm F2.8 manual focus lens.  That system was basically a huge pain.  It was large and clunky, difficult to mount, and the filters were not of the highest quality.  I’ve reviewed other such systems for other lenses along the way, and, while the quality was frequently better, they still ended up being rather large and cumbersome.  The V7 Filter system is not designed around adapting a specific lens for filter use, but rather for giving versatility for using filters for any lens with traditional filter threads in sizes up to 82mm.  The byproduct of this is that the basic kit is nicely compact and comes with a really nice case to store it all in:

That kit comes with several step-up rings in the most popular sizes (67mm, 72mm, 77mm), though you may need to purchase an additional step up ring if your lens doesn’t have one of those filter thread sizes.  Fortunately step up rings are inexpensive.  

There are two primary reasons to invest in a square filter system like this (this is considered a 100mm square system):  the first is that stacking circular filters with a wide angle lens often leads to vignetting.  The angle of view is so wide that the filters start to cause darkness along the edges of the frame.  A square filter system is wider than the lens diameter and helps avoid this even when using multiple filters.  In this case you can add up to 3 square filters along with the included circular polarizing filter without fear of vignette.  The circular polarizer is a good one; optically sound and well made.  A clever part of the design gives you an external dial that will allow you to rotate the filter even when it is covered by the filter system.  You can use just the circular polarizer portion of the filter system without attaching the square holder, so that could give you a secondary value by just using that filter if all you want is polarizing, like this:

The second big reason to use square filter systems is for the advantage of being able to use graduated filters.  Grad filters don’t have a solid neutral density effect but have the effect only on a part of the filter with either a hard transition or a gradual transition.  The NiSi graduated filters come in a 100 x 150mm size to allow you to slide them up and down.  This can really boost your images by balancing exposure.  In this scene, for example, the bright sky and buildings made for a darker foreground.

By using a medium graduated ND filter on the sky portion of the image, I was able to balance the exposure, and, as a bonus, give a little more character to a somewhat boring sky.

I flipped it around for a different shot.  The underside of a pier on the Atlantic was in shadow, while the waves crashing in were bright and well lit.  I used the grad-ND on the water to bring down the highlights there and thus allowing the pier supports (in shadow) to be properly lit in this shot.

The square filter holder is easy to add onto the circular section (which mounts first via the filter threads of the lens) by using a unique locking screw that allows you to pull it back first (allowing the square filter system to be attached) and then by tightening it down so you have no fear of the filter holder coming off.

A secondary feature that I really like is that filters are held in place by a passive tension system that does a great job of exerting consistent pressure on the filters to hold them in place but gives enough freedom to slide them into the proper position.  There’s nothing that you have to remember to tighten down, which is great, as I’ve been in the situation where I was desperately grabbing at an expensive filter that started to slide out of a filter holder when I went to move the tripod to a new position.

The square 100mm filters have a foam surround that keeps stray light from penetrating (and offers some protection).  All of NiSi’s filters have nano-coatings on both sides to make them resistant to scratching, oils, etc…  I love using ND filters for getting long exposures in a variety of lighting conditions.  Here, for example, I was able to smooth out the movement of the waves crashing in under that same pier and get a nicely moody shot.

Performance of the filters was good.  NiSi boasts that their filters are “True-Color”, and I can attest that I didn’t see a color cast introduced into my images.  Here’s a shot of the same scene shown earlier, save this time with a 10 stop ND filter along with the CP-L filter attached:

You can see that the color balance is very close to the original scene.  I didn’t feel like I had to do work in post to “fix” white balance with any of the image I took with the system.

I also felt like my resolution results held up with the filters attached.  Here’s a long exposure image taken with the ND1000 (ten stop) and CP-L filters.  You can see from the crop that there is still perfect detail in the scene even on the fairly demanding sensor of the Canon EOS R5 (45MP) that I used for the shot.

I was very impressed with the packaging and presentation of everything that I tested.  Everything comes with some kind of carrying sleeve or pouch to help protect it, and included booklets give you tips, instructions, and charts for getting the most out of your filters (and the right exposure!)

So let’s talk pricing.  Filter systems like the V7 tend to be expensive, and that’s true to some degree here, though NiSi undercuts a lot of other brands by a fair bit.  You have a number of options of kit sizes essentially depending on what all you need.  

The basic filter holder and circular polarizing filter setup runs about $250 USD, but if you step up to something like the “Starter Kit”, you get essentially what I’ve used in this review – a system that includes both a ND1000 filter and the graduated medium-ND filter.  That kit will run you right over $500, and is obviously very popular, as it is already backordered.

Larger kits come with even more filter options and the price climbs relative to what all is included.

The advantage of buying kits is that the price of individual items drops relative to buying them separately, but you also need to be sure that you get what you need for your work and not just get extra pieces that are going to sit in the bag.  I will note for those of you that like to IR work that these filters are design with IR in mind.

I have no significant complaints about the NiSi V7.  I did my review in winter, which is not really the best time of year for me in terms of getting great long exposure images (everything is frozen over!!), but I was happy with both the handling of the system and the results I was able to get.  I was able to pack the filter system along with 5 filters in two pouches small enough to fit into the front pocket of my backpack for travel, so it was easy to bring along with me.  This system isn’t cheap, but it is also isn’t lens specific, which means that you can purchase one time and use it for pretty much the rest of your photography career as long as you take care of everything.  So get out there and make some magic!

The best way to get a deeper look at and demonstration of this system is by checking out my video below…or you can just enjoy the photos I’ve had a chance to take with V7 Filter system below.

 

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Thank you to NiSi for sending me the V7 system for review.  As always, this is a completely independent review.  The opinions here are completely my own.

Photos taken with the NiSi V7 Filter System

Gear Used:

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Purchase the Sony Alpha 1 @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

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Sony a9 Camera:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada  | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7RIV Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

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Purchase a Sony a7C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

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Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
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Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

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Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Keywords: NiSi V7, NiSi, V7, Filter System, NiSi V7 Filter System Review, Demonstration, Myrtle Beach, Ocean, Snow, NiSi 15mm F4 review, NiSi 15 F4, F/4, Wide Angle, Hands On, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Sharpness, Bokeh, Flare Resistance, Autofocus, Image Quality, Sample Images, Video, Photography, Sony a9, sony a7III, sony a7RIV, a7R3,  Sony Alpha 1, Sony A1, Canon RF, Nikon Z, Fuji X, Landscape Photography, Filters

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Laowa RF 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro Review

Dustin Abbott

January 3rd, 2022

In 2019 I reviewed this lens, the Laowa 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro, though, at that time, my review was conducted on an EF mount lens on a Canon 5D Mark IV DSLR.  I was very positive about the lens in my review, though I didn’t feel compelled to purchase one at that point.  Manual focus on DSLRs was/is sometimes too limiting, but since that point I’ve moved completely to mirrorless, and that 5DIV was replaced with a Canon EOS R5.  The fact that Laowa offered the lens in an RF mount made me curious as to how different my experience with on a mirrorless body would be.  The short answer is that the experience of using the lens is a lot more fun on mirrorless, and the image quality remains incredible.

I’m not here to completely redo that review, but rather to update my original findings with some specific observations on using the lens on mirrorless as opposed to the original DSLR mounts that it was available for.  So, let me start by saying that I have for the most part really, really enjoyed using the Laowa RF100M (as I’ll call it for brevity in this review) on my Canon EOS R5.  There are a variety of reasons, but the first thing that stands out to me is the great viewfinder and LCD screen on the R5 that makes using manual focus lenses so much more fun.  A really sharp lens like the Laowa means that focus overlays (I use focus peaking in red and set on the “high” level”) show up very crisply in the high resolution viewfinder, and I found that focusing in most situations (more on that in a moment) was really, really easy.  I rarely felt like I had to magnify the image at close to medium focus distances, which meant that the focus process was very organic and quick.  The crisp LCD screen means that high resolution, high contrast images like this lens can produce really just pop off the screen, which made my shooting time out in the field feel very rewarding.  Finally, the addition of IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) means even a manual everything lens like this gets decent stabilization (I manually input the focal length to get the best performance).  Having a stabilized macro lens only adds versatility to this lens, and the Laowa RF100M has always been unusually sharp even for a macro lens.

In many ways the Laowa 100mm F2.8 2x APO Macro is the most conventional of their lenses that I’ve reviewed, and even it has some unique attributes.  Venus Optics launched their Laowa brand with some unconventional macro lenses and have continue to tackle projects outside the scope of mainstream lens development.  This includes unique wide angle lenses wider than most competitors and even a unique probe lens unlike anything I’ve seen before.  The Laowa 100M macro combines an apochromatic (APO) optical design (typically seen on very expensive lenses) with a 2x macro ratio of 2:1 rather than 1:1 life size.  This means that while most macro lenses can only achieve this level of magnification:

…the Laowa RF100M can achieve this level of magnification:

That’s obviously incredibly useful, and the Apochromatic design helps assure that images have unbelievably low levels of chromatic aberrations and incredibly high clarity and contrast.  The only drawback to moving to an RF mount lens is the fact that the auto aperture is (for some reason) only for the Canon EF mount.  What is “auto aperture”?  It is an electromagnetic auto aperture iris and electronic contacts (full EXIF information is communicated to camera).  I thought at the time that this was beginning of a new phase for Laowa, but that hasn’t proved the case.  Essentially all of their subsequent lenses (to my knowledge) have continued to ship without any electronics and a more traditional manual aperture ring…and that’s the case with the Laowa RF100M as well.

Still, we’ve got an amazing apochromatic lens optically with a mostly excellent build, 2x magnification, and a price tag of around $500 USD.  That’s a winning combination, and, frankly, I’ve tested a dozen macro lenses since and still haven’t seen one with more “pop” to images than this one…so this remains a very interesting lens on mirrorless cameras like Canon RF, Sony FE, or Nikon Z.

 

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I purchased a retail copy of this lens from Amplis Foto in Canada (the Canadian Laowa distributor) for this review.  They have a great price on the lens, and using the code AMPLIS52018DA will give you an additional 5% off. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and the photos shown in this review have been taken on my 45 MP Canon EOS R5.

Laowa RF100M Build and Handling

Laowa lenses have always been nicely made with full metal construction.  That trend continues here, with the lens made entirely of metal and glass.  They’ve done a good job of balancing the weight, however, as the lens weighs in at a moderate 1.4 lb (638g) despite the heavy grade construction.  I don’t love the lens profile, which is very long and skinny, and made more so by the extra length in the barrel to accommodate the different flange distance of mirrorless (the optics need to be moved a little further from the sensor).   The lens in the RF mount is 72mm in diameter x 125 mm in length (2.83 x 4.92″).

That length is further exaggerated if you mount the lens hood.  The lens hood is the weakest part of the build, as it is very ordinary grade plastics and doesn’t bayonet on as precisely as what I like.  It was even worse initially, but is improving a bit with some use.

The focus travel is quite extensive and Laowa elected to keep all of that movement of the elements within the housing of the lens barrel.  At infinity the front element is quite recessed (about three inches), and Laowa took an interesting path of protecting the internal elements by making a UV filter an actual part of the design.  I still find this a bit odd, and I prefer the more traditional design of the 65mm F2.8 APO lens for APS-C (an excellent little lens).

Minimum focus distance focus distance you probably won’t want to use it for the simple reason that minimum focus distance is 9.72″ (24.7cm) at 2:1 macro, so you’ll be better off removing that lens hood to make sure you aren’t shading your subject.  Here’s a look at the amount of magnification from my test chart subject (test chart shown a little later on) that you get at 2:1:

It’s worth noting that the laws of physics dictate that light transmission at close focus distances diminishes (effective aperture changes), and that’s even more obvious with the additional magnification of the Laowa RF100M.  Put simply, the image will get darker when you focus closer (think 2-3 stops).

Unlike the EF version that I reviewed, there is a manual aperture ring here with light detents at the full stops and a lot of room in between the early stops for selecting a partial stop.

There is a wide manual focus ring that is finely ribbed.  It moves smoothly and is nicely damped, though the focus throw/travel is only about 155-160 degrees. 

That would be fine if this were just an 100mm medium telephoto, but a macro lens introduces many more focus possibilities than a standard lens, and a 2:1 macro even more.  In fact, about 35 degrees of that focus throw is between 1:1 and 2:1, and roughly 85 degrees is devoted to 1:2 (0.50x) to 2:1 (2.0x) macro.  That means that roughly 54% of the focus throw distance happens covers from 25-40cm, or a total distance of about 15cm (6 inches).  That means that 46% of the focus throw covers every other possibility from 40cm to infinity.  By comparison, I own the excellent (and somewhat similar) Voigtländer 65mm F2.8 APO Macro lens that has about 340 degrees of focus throw (more than twice as long) even though it is only a 1:2 macro.  The short focus travel on the Laowa 100M makes fine-tuning focus particularly near infinity more difficult.  It’s very easy to move past the focus point and end up with nothing really in focus (though my focus peaking showed everything in focus for this shot below):

It was only at landscape differences that I felt like I needed to double-check focus by magnifying the image, as I did see some false positives from focus peaking and the fact that a little adjustment makes for a big change due to that short focus throw.  This shot, for example, is well focused, but you can also see that even at F5.6 the depth of field is fairly narrow (the distant shore is still very out of focus) due to the longer focal length of the lens.

The tradeoff for the manual aperture ring is that we get a much higher blade count of 13 on the mirrorless mounts (Canon RF, Sony FE, and Nikon Z), which tops the 9 blades on the electromagnetically controlled Canon EF mount.  The aperture on the EF mount starts to create a typical nonagonal shape when stopped down a bit, but the 13 blades on the RF mount maintain a beautifully circular shape even when stopped down.  

Outside of my major criticism of the focus travel, this is a very nicely executed lens with a build quality that punches way over its price point of $499 USD.  I’d like to see weather sealing, but that might be quibbling.  I also would really like to see Laowa find a way to include electronic contacts on their lenses so that basic EXIF information can be communicated.  The Laowa RF100M feels like a much more premium lens than the price suggests, and a few disappointing shortcomings on the Canon RF 100mm F2.8L Macro IS that I just reviewed along with its $1400 price makes the Laowa an interesting alternative (particularly when consider the image quality, as we are about to see).

Laowa RF100M Image Quality

Image quality is often an area of strength for an APO (Apochromatic) lens, and that’s true of the Laowa RF100M.  A lens with an Apochromatic design has better correction of chromatic and spherical aberration than the much more common achromat lenses. Put simply, most lenses struggle with the fact that colors don’t always focus at the same distance, which results in green or purple (red) fringing due to the fact that those colors aren’t focusing on the same plane of focus. Whereas most lenses are corrected for two color wavelengths (typically red and blue), an apochromatic lens is able to bring three color wavelengths into focus on the same focus plane. This produces a near absence of chromatic aberrations and allows for higher contrast and a near absence of the veiling (lack of contrast) that produces “soft” images. True apochromatic lenses tend to be very sharp and very contrasty. They also are corrected for spherical aberrations on two wavelengths rather than one.  I owned some excellent APO lenses, including the Zeiss Milvus 135mm F2 and the Voigtländer 65mm F2, and I’ve tested a number of other ones.  Images with amazing “pop” like this are something I come to expect from lenses like this.

There is typically only one downside to APO lenses, and that is the intense contrast and lack of chromatic aberrations can have the negative impact of more hard edges in the bokeh (defocused) areas of the image.  Some of the best “bokeh lenses” are those with some uncorrected aberrations, which help produce a softer, creamier defocused area.  The trend generally remains true here, though frankly this lens is better than many in that way.  This is the busiest I could get of the bokeh.

The transition zone there is fairly busy, but if I move a little closer, everything looks very creamy:

We’ll circle back to the bokeh with more shots in a moment, but let’s break down some of the optical performance.  We’ll start with vignette and distortion.

There’s little to see on the distortion front.  Just the mildest amount of pincushion distortion (a -2 to correct for manually), which is really just about enough to make portraits a little more flattering but without any damage to straight lines.  Vignette was a little heavier, requiring a +62 to correct for.  That’s a little over two stops, so nothing critical.  I like to benchmark other lenses when I do reviews, and since I just reviewed the Canon RF 100mm F2.8L Macro IS, I’ll refer to that lens.  It showed an identical amount of pincushion distortion and about a half stop less vignette in the corners.

The advantage of an Apochromatic design for macro work is obvious if we look at a macro shot of some shiny surfaces.  These shots were not taken at the same time, so the focus is slightly different, but the subject matter and lighting is pretty much identical.  The tiny difference in focus is not really relevant, as what matters is what happens after the plane of focus.  You can see that the Laowa’s APO design is essentially completely free of any fringing, leaving very neutral textures, bokeh without any fringing outlining, and extremely high contrast.  The Canon RF 100L Macro, though extremely sharp, has more fringing, some fringing around the bokeh circles, and doesn’t deliver quite as biting of contrast on the subject.

Here’s a look at the images globally, and while I loved the original when I took it with the Canon lens a couple of weeks ago, I actually slightly prefer the Laowa image because it has a little more pop and the bokeh is more neutral.

I also saw no evidence of any lateral chromatic aberrations in any of my test photos, though I would have been shocked to have found any from this lens.

So how about sharpness?  Here’s a look at my chart globally at F2.8, taken with the 45MP Canon EOS R5:

And here are the F2.8 crops at nearly 200% magnification, taken from the center, then mid-frame, and then extreme lower right corner:

What I see is fantastic center sharpness, very good midframe sharpness, and good extreme corner performance.

So, how does that compare to the Canon?  In the center of the frame, it is hard to pick a winner, though I do think the Laowa shows a little more contrast and resolution (which shows up in part as the false-color moiré pattern on the ship’s prow).

Move out to the midframe and on to the corners, however, and the Canon takes the lead:

If you stop down a bit (F5.6), the two lenses are largely indistinguishable, though the Canon’s results can be marred (if you’re not careful) by a problem with some focus shift.  The manual focus Laowa has no such problem, obviously, and it gives us just a little more contrast here on the lower left side of the chart.

I think on chart testing, in general, the Canon is probably slightly sharper.  I felt the Laowa was a bit sharper in real world images, however, due to the APO design and the elimination of aberrations.  This wide open shot of some pliers, for example, shows just how detail can be rendered even when you have challenging, shiny surfaces.

Or how about the detail on this coin?

Step back a few feet, and the detail is just as striking on Loki’s face (F2.8, available light).

Or the detail in these dried weeds (which exhibit such fascinating structure):

The lack of chromatic aberrations really allow those details to pop, and the contrast is amazing.

Here’s another cool shot of a needle and thread:

My point is that macro is fun (ordinary things look extraordinary at a macro level), and that the Laowa has some of the best image quality you are going to find at this price point.

Make sure that it is focused right, and you’ll get a lovely landscape lens, too.

I sometimes complain about Laowa colors on their wide angle lenses being a little “flat” for my tastes, but that hasn’t been the case with their telephoto lenses.  I liked the color from the 105mm F2 Transfocus lens, this 1oomm lens, and the 65mm F2 Macro as well.  I find that Apochromatic lenses produce really intriguing color because of the deep contrast levels, and so images look great:

My review of the Canon EF mount version of the Laowa was during the more colorful summer months, so here’s a few images from that review to show off the great looking color from the lens.

That punch also gives images a three-dimensional feel, where the subject really stands out against the background.

You’ve probably noticed from these images that the bokeh is actually pretty nice from the lens, and you can get close enough to subjects to REALLY make the background disappear…even if they are just a few centimeters away.

As I discovered in my initial review, however, there is one more significant flaw, however, and that is in flare resistance.  The Laowa RF100M is still somewhat flare prone even with the lens hood mounted, particularly at wide apertures (F2.8 then F11):

I rarely point telephotos right at the sun, but the poorer flare resistance is something to watch out for in certain situations.

All in all, however, this lens is an amazing optical performer for the price.  It delivers gorgeous images when used to its strength, though nailing focus is slightly more difficult due to the short focus throw.  If you would like to see more images, check out my image gallery here.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I’m more positive than ever about the Laowa 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro in the Canon RF mount.  It has the same flaws as before (too short of focus throw, being flare prone), but using the lens on mirrorless really mitigates some of its other shortcomings (manual focus only, no image stabilization) and I’m left with a lens that is generally fun to use and easy to focus.  The punchy colors and images in general remind me of much more expensive APO lenses. When used to its strengths, images from this lens really pop:

And, as a macro lens, it’s additional degree of magnification allows you to do things that lesser lenses cannot.  It unlocks an extra level of creativity, and that Apochromatic design allows you to shoot shiny metal textures without fear of chromatic aberrations destroying the image.

When you look at the price tag (about $500 USD) relative to the new Canon RF 100mm F2.8L Macro IS ($1400 USD), the Laowa really starts to feel like a great value, particularly if you tend to do your macro work utilizing manual focus.  This remains as one of Laowa’s best value lenses, and is certainly a blast to use on a good mirrorless body.

Pros:

  • Nice build quality in general
  • Apochromatic design at a low price
  • Twice the magnification of most competing macro lenses
  • Good contrast 
  • Excellent chromatic aberration control
  • Colors have great punch
  • Great real world macro performance

Cons:

  • Focus travel isn’t long enough for the focus range
  • Flare prone
  • Lens hood doesn’t fit well

 

Purchase the Laowa 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amplis Foto (use code AMPLIS52018DA for 5% off) | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany 

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Keywords: laowa 100mm, laowa 100 macro, laowa 2x macro, laowa, 100mm, F2.8, 2.8 Macro, 2X Macro, 2:1 Macro, APO, Apochromatic, Laowa 100mm Macro Review, Laowa 100 2x Macro Review, Review, Dustin Abbott, Portrait, Canon RF, Canon EOS R5, RF, Sharpness, Resolution, Bokeh, Video Test, Sample Images, Real World, Macro, 45Mp, Canon, Letthelightin

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Laowa RF 100mm F2.8 APO 2X Macro Gallery

Dustin Abbott

January 3rd, 2022

In 2019 I reviewed this lens, the Laowa 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro, though, at that time, my review was conducted on an EF mount lens on a Canon 5D Mark IV DSLR.  I was very positive about the lens in my review, though I didn’t feel compelled to purchase one at that point.  Manual focus on DSLRs was/is sometimes too limiting, but since that point I’ve moved completely to mirrorless, and that 5DIV was replaced with a Canon EOS R5.  The fact that Laowa offered the lens in an RF mount made me curious as to how different my experience with on a mirrorless body would be.  The short answer is that the experience of using the lens is a lot more fun on mirrorless, and the image quality remains incredible.

I’m not here to completely redo that review, but rather to update my original findings with some specific observations on using the lens on mirrorless as opposed to the original DSLR mounts that it was available for.  So, let me start by saying that I have for the most part really, really enjoyed using the Laowa RF 100mm Macro on my Canon EOS R5.  There are a variety of reasons, but the first thing that stands out to me is the great viewfinder and LCD screen on the R5 that makes using manual focus lenses so much more fun.  A really sharp lens like the Laowa means that focus overlays (I use focus peaking in red and set on the “high” level”) show up very crisply in the high resolution viewfinder, and I found that focusing in most situations (more on that in a moment) was really, really easy.  I rarely felt like I had to magnify the image at close to medium focus distances, which meant that the focus process was very organic and quick.  The crisp LCD screen means that high resolution, high contrast images like this lens can produce really just pop off the screen, which made my shooting time out in the field feel very rewarding.  Finally, the addition of IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) means even a manual everything lens like this gets decent stabilization (I manually input the focal length to get the best performance).  Having a stabilized macro lens only adds versatility to this lens, and the Laowa RF 100mm has always been unusually sharp even for a macro lens.

In many ways the Laowa 100mm F2.8 2x APO Macro is the most conventional of their lenses that I’ve reviewed, and even it has some unique attributes.  Venus Optics launched their Laowa brand with some unconventional macro lenses and have continue to tackle projects outside the scope of mainstream lens development.  This includes unique wide angle lenses wider than most competitors and even a unique probe lens unlike anything I’ve seen before.  The Laowa 100mm macro combines an apochromatic (APO) optical design (typically seen on very expensive lenses) with a 2x macro ratio of 2:1 rather than 1:1 life size.  This means that while most macro lenses can only achieve this level of magnification:

…the Laowa RF100M can achieve this level of magnification:

That’s obviously incredibly useful, and the Apochromatic design helps assure that images have unbelievably low levels of chromatic aberrations and incredibly high clarity and contrast.  The only drawback to moving to an RF mount lens is the fact that the auto aperture is (for some reason) only for the Canon EF mount.  What is “auto aperture”?  It is an electromagnetic auto aperture iris and electronic contacts (full EXIF information is communicated to camera).  I thought at the time that this was beginning of a new phase for Laowa, but that hasn’t proved the case.  Essentially all of their subsequent lenses (to my knowledge) have continued to ship without any electronics and a more traditional manual aperture ring…and that’s the case with the Laowa RF100M as well.

Still, we’ve got an amazing apochromatic lens optically with a mostly excellent build, 2x magnification, and a price tag of around $500 USD.  That’s a winning combination, and, frankly, I’ve tested a dozen macro lenses since and still haven’t seen one as sharp as this one on full frame…so this remains a very interesting lens on mirrorless cameras like Canon RF, Sony FE, or Nikon Z.  If you want more information, you can watch my video review or read my text review of the lens…or just enjoy the photos!

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I purchased a retail copy of this lens from Amplis Foto in Canada (the Canadian Laowa distributor) for this review.  They have a great price on the lens, and using the code AMPLIS52018DA will give you an additional 5% off. As always, this is a completely independent review. *The tests and the photos shown in this review have been taken on my 45 MP Canon EOS R5.

Photos of the Laowa RF 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro

Photos from the Laowa RF 100mm Macro on Canon EOS R5

 

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Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

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Purchase the Laowa 100mm F2.8 APO 2:1 Macro @ B&H Photo https://bhpho.to/31A9Y4M | Amazon https://amzn.to/3lBBUfK | Amplis Foto https://bit.ly/100Mamplis (use code AMPLIS52018DA for 5% off) | Camera Canada https://shrsl.com/3afxq | Amazon Canada https://amzn.to/3ooCOhd | Amazon UK https://amzn.to/3GhhLmZ | Amazon Germany https://amzn.to/3EmCUM1

Keywords: laowa 100mm, laowa 100 macro, laowa 2x macro, laowa, 100mm, F2.8, 2.8 Macro, 2X Macro, 2:1 Macro, APO, Apochromatic, Laowa 100mm Macro Review, Laowa 100 2x Macro Review, Review, Dustin Abbott, Portrait, Canon RF, Canon EOS R5, RF, Sharpness, Resolution, Bokeh, Video Test, Sample Images, Real World, Macro, 45Mp, Canon, Letthelightin

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH Review

Dustin Abbott

September 27th, 2021

NiSi has historically been a company that has made filters for other people’s lenses, and a search of their products shows a lot of filters with very high reviews.  But at some point they clearly decided that their optical glass expertise could just as easily go into the construction of lenses themselves, which has resulted in their first lens, the very intriguing NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH.  This wide angle prime (it actually has an angle of view more like a 14.5mm lens) is extremely wide, but with lower distortion than most equivalent lenses.  Furthermore, by avoiding the challenges inherit in designing a very large aperture lens, they have been able to produce a lens that is compact (80.5mm in length), can use traditional screw in filters (72mm size), and that weighs only 470g despite a very nice all metal and glass construction.  As first lens design attempts go, this is a very good one.  I’ve been able to get very good results from the NiSi15 (as we’ll call it for brevity in this review) even on my demanding 50MP sensor on the Sony Alpha 1 that I’ve used for this review.

This “killer app” with this new NiSi 15mm shows up in the photo below, namely the ten straight aperture blades that produce stunning sunstars even at F4.  Yes, the blades are never fully retracted, and this design allows for beautifully rendered sunstars with long, clearly defined shafts of light that add terrific visual interest to photos.  Flare resistance is good overall, too (though not perfect), allowing you to shoot into the light and capture the beauty of brightly lit scenes.

At a price point of under $500, the NiSi 15mm is reasonably priced relative to performance, allowing photographers a chance to get a very wide angle of view on their Sony FE (reviewed here), Canon RF, Nikon Z, or Fujifilm X mount cameras.  The lens isn’t perfect, but it is a lot of lens for the money and has relatively few flaws.  You can certainly get some beautiful  and dynamic images with it!

So should you consider the NiSi15 for yourself?  You can either watch my video review or read on in this text review to help yourself make an informed decision.

 

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Thank you to NiSi for sending me a loaner of the lens for review.  As always, this is a completely independent review.  The opinions here are completely my own.

NiSi15 Build and Handling

Gone are the days where new lensmakers started with cheap plastic lenses.  These days it seems like many of them start with a classic Zeiss-like approach to lens design – all metal and glass.  That’s the reality here, too.  The NiSi15 has a beautiful build quality with a classic aesthetic.  It’s primarily a black anodized metal finish with a silver accent ring in the middle.  

That silver accent ring has a practical function, though, as it has the hyperfocal distance markings for various aperture values there.  I did test hyperfocusing a bit, but, as per usual, found that I actually got more reliable results by just magnifying the area that I wanted to focus on.  The NiSi15 has an extremely wide angle of view (112°), which makes it wider than the Laowa 15mm F2 Zero D lens (110°) but not quite as wide as the Sony FE 14mm F1.8 GM (114°).  NiSi indicated to me that the lens is actually a 14.5mm lens, which seems to be accurate from comparison with these two lenses.  It certainly delivers a dynamically wide angle of view:

There is a low profile aperture ring with one third stop detents, though there are only markings for the full stops (F4, 5.6, 8, etc…)  The aperture ring moves smoothly and precisely, though there is no option to declick it.

The focus ring moves extremely smoothly, with near perfect damping that does remind me of a Zeiss lens.  All focus is internal, so the lens retains a constant length at all times.  The focus throw is fairly good as well (wide angle lenses often have shorter focus throws).  I did find that there wasn’t a lot of room between one meter and infinity, and it is possible to get inaccurately focused landscape results if you don’t focus precisely in that zone.  Infinity focus was basically right at the mechanical hard stop.  I often pulled back just a fraction to ensure perfect infinity focus, though I don’t think there was a significant different between the hard stop and my “fraction less” position.  This made landscape focus pretty simple.

The NiSi15 is a nicely compact lens for a full frame wide angle.  It is 75.6mm in diameter and 80.5 mm in length and weighs 470g (3 x 3.2″ and 1 lb), making it just a little smaller and lighter than the Laowa 15mm F2 lens.

This leaves you with a relatively common 72mm front filter thread.  This allows you to use traditional screw in filters (a big plus) and is also small enough that the smaller 100mm square filter systems will also work on it.

There is a fairly shallow metal lens hood included with a petal-shaped design.  The bright orange/yellow branding on the hood reminded me a bit of the Zeiss Otus series.  The lens is compact enough with the hood in place that I mostly just kept it in place, though it can be reversed for storage.

There are no electronic contacts or a weather sealing gasket at the lens mount.  This is a fully manual lens, meaning that you won’t get EXIF data about aperture or lens designation embedded in your files.  You’ll also have to manually input the focal length into your camera if you have one that has in-body-image-stabilization.  This is pretty much par for the course with many such lenses, though I do wish at least some basic electronic communication could be introduced.

The headline feature here is that NiSi has (wisely) elected to forego the modern standard of rounded aperture blades and has instead employed ten straight blades in the aperture iris.  If this was a “bokeh lens”, that would produce less desirable bokeh highlights, but a wide angle lens with a maximum aperture of F4 isn’t going to have a lot of opportunities to produce a lot of bokeh highlights. 

What it can produce, however, is sunstars.  By employing straight blades they have enabled the lens to produce beautifully defined sunstars that add a lot of character to images.

Furthermore, they’ve designed the lens where the blades show a bit even at F4, meaning you can get those sunstars without stopping down.  This will allow you to get creative images even at night, for example.

The NiSi15 can focus as closely as 20cm, which allows for a decent though unexceptional 0.13x magnification figure.  That’s well below the 0.25x of the Laowa but better than the 0.10x of the Sony 14mm GM.  Here’s what MFD on the NiSi looks like:

Here’s about as close as you can get and about as much bokeh as you’re going to see from the lens:

The bokeh here is okay but unexceptional.  That’s not really the strength of this lens.  I found a friend’s Audi and an early morning sunrise produced a more interesting image.

All told, the NiSi15 is a nicely built lens that works well.  The mechanical engineering seems precise, and the rings move nicely.  This is a great first lens for NiSi.

NiSi15 Image Quality

The NiSi15 enters an arena with several existing competitors optically.  The Samyang AF 14mm F2.8 (my review here of the Canon RF mount – same optics) provides a slightly wider angle of view and autofocus at roughly the same price (the MSRP is higher at $799 USD but the lens is frequently discounted to a similar price point.  The Laowa 15mm F2 Zero D (my review here) has a slightly narrower angle of view but considerably wider maximum aperture, but is also the most expensive at $849 USD.  The NiSi15 can be had for $499 USD, which makes it the natural bargain of the main choices.  But can it compete optically?  

First of all, a look at MTF charts for the NiSi (#1), Laowa (#2), and Samyang (#3).

These are not really apples to apples comparisons, as the NiSi has a smaller maximum aperture, but it is instructive nonetheless.  It reveals that the overall sharpness curve is pretty similar across these lenses, with very sharp centers, good mid-frames, and fairly good corners (the NiSi’s greatest edge is there, at least at the lenses maximum apertures).  The only true direct comparison from the MTF charts is found between the NiSi and Samyang at F8, where it shows a similar performance in the center but with the Samyang winning on the edges.  In fact, NiSi gives MTF charts at F4, F8, and F11, and, while it shows some slightly varied sharpness curves (there’s a bit more inconsistency at F4), the lens actually doesn’t really get sharper stopped down and actually loses a bit in the corners when stopped down to F8 or F11.  It’s an unusual performance in that peak average sharpness is found wide open at F4.  I was curious to see if my tests and real world results followed that same pattern.  

Let’s orient ourselves by first checking in with a real world image with a lot of depth and detail:

Obviously there is a lot of detail captured here on my 50MP Sony Alpha 1 sensor, which I would say that the NiSi performed just fine on.  It’s worth noting that this is a slightly better performance than, say, the Canon RF 15-35mm F2.8L IS at 15mm, and that is a $2400 USD lens.

Laowa really touts the low distortion of their 15mm F2 (that’s what “Zero D” means), but the reality is that the NiSi15 performs fairly similarly.  A look at my Vignette and Distortion chart shows very low levels of distortion:

I used only a +2 to correct an almost imperceptible amount of barrel distortion, though I’m not sure that correcting it is even worthwhile, as it reveals a very mild mustache pattern.  There’s not enough distortion there to present a problem for essentially any kind of application.  Real world lines look nice and straight:

Vignette is moderately heavy (I corrected with a +68), which is about on par with the Samyang and considerably less than the Laowa 15mm F2.  Most of these wide angle lenses have a fair amount of vignette, and nothing stood out to me as unusual about the NiSi15.  In fact, the positive is that the vignette cleaned up without adding any kind of false color to the corners, which can be an issue at times with these type lenses.  

I also didn’t see any kind of issue with chromatic aberrations of either the longitudinal or lateral kind.  There was little fringing to be seen of any kind.  Here’s a look at various scenarios where that fringing might show up.

So far we are doing pretty good.  The typical major flaws of wide angle lenses are 1) high distortion 2) heavy vignette 3) lateral chromatic aberrations.  None of these are a problem here.  So how about sharpness?

Here’s a look globally at my test chart:

And here is a look at the crops from across the frame at F4 (center, mid-frame, and then bottom right corner):

That a consistently good performance across the frame, and even the corners look quite good.  According the MTF charts, we shouldn’t really expect more resolution with the lens stopped down, and, while I do think that is accurate, I felt like there was slightly more contrast when I compared the F4 result to F5.6 on the right below:

When I compared F5.6 to F8, however, I saw what looked like essentially an identical result, so I would say that sharpness and contrast peaks at F5.6.  Real world results show a lot of detail across the frame at F5.6:

Designing a low distortion, high resolution ultra wide angle lens is seriously challenging, and there’s no question that NiSi has pretty much nailed things here.  I was able to capture a lot of compelling images with high detail during my review period.

Another key metric for a wide angle lens is the ability to resist flaring, particularly when the “killer app” is to produce beautiful sunbursts.  You don’t get those without putting a bright source of light in the frame.  Fortunately I do think that flare resistance is very good here, though not perfect.  The NiSi15 gets very high marks for resistance to veiling, or a loss of contrast when bright lights are in the frame.  Contrast remains very high with the sun directly in the frame.

I did see a few minor ghosting artifacts (little blobs of false color caused by flare), but they were extremely mild and essentially non-destructive.

They will get a little more pronounced if you stop the lens down (often the case), so expect a more pronounced “optical path” flare pattern, like here:

The unique good news here is that you don’t actually need to stop down to get the sunstar effect, so, well, don’t!  You might have also noticed in all of these images that contrast remained excellent in all of these examples; that aspect of flare resistance is impeccable.  

I find wide angle lenses great for getting visually arresting images.  The NiSi15 falls in what I consider the ultra-wide “sweet spot”, where it is extremely wide but not so wide that composition becomes impossible.  Get close to things and allow the optics to produce interesting results:

If you are too far away (like in a landscape scene), you end up with a lot of empty space in the foreground, which is rarely interesting.  This shot isn’t terrible, but there’s a lot of empty water here.  

I shot the same scene with a 75mm lens and got a much more interesting result.

You have to learn the art of composing with a wide angle lens.

Let’s talk color for a moment.  I found the colors to be more saturated than, say, the Laowa 15mm F2, but this is no Zeiss lens, either.  I found colors sometimes a little hard to process, as they seemed to push towards garish fairly quickly.  I had to use a delicate touch to make sure that colors had a richly saturated look but without being extreme.  The colors of this shot were some of my favorite from the lens, as the saturation levels look great.  All I did here to the RAW image was pull down the highlights a bit and open the shadows; the colors are right out of camera.

You’ll pick up a lot of sky colors with a wide angle lens, which is wonderful if the sky is beautiful:

It is rather less amazing if there is a lot of bland sky in the frame:

My original point remains – use a wide angle lens to its strengths, and it will reward you with amazing images.  Use it wrong, and you’ll probably end up discarding half of what you capture.

All told, this is a very good lens optically, and I felt like NiSi’s experience with optical glass showed here in their first lens.  I would encourage you to check out many more images in the image gallery here.

Conclusion

I get “pitched” to look at new gear every day, and many times I have to say “no” due to the reality that I only have so much time.  When NiSi reached out to me, I first went to the web address they sent me and did a little research of their new lens.  The MTFs looked solid, the low distortion was appealing, and the idea to go with straight blades for the sunstars all seemed like wise design elements.  I decided I would invest the time to review it, and I’m glad I did.  There are reasonable alternatives to the NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH on the various lens mounts it is designed for (Sony FE, Nikon Z, Canon RF, and Fuji X), but the NiSi15 seems to offer very strong value for money to me.  Yes, I would have liked an F2.8 aperture instead, and yes, I would always prefer weather sealing, but a nicely built, high performing wide angle lens for full frame cameras that costs less than $500 is fairly rare.

The NiSi 15mm F4 is a well made lens mechanically.  Everything is all metal and glass and works just as it should.  I also appreciate the compact nature of the lens that fits nicely on the various mirrorless cameras systems it is designed for.

There’s no question that you can get compelling images from the NiSi 15mm lens, and I hope this is the beginning of many more lenses to come.  I enjoyed my time with the NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH…and its amazing sunstars!

Pros:

  • Excellent build quality
  • Internally focusing design
  • Great manual focus ring
  • Aperture ring works with precision
  • Compact size and reasonable weight
  • Gorgeous sunstars
  • Good resolution across the frame
  • Low distortion
  • Great price to performance ratio

 

Cons:

  • No weather sealing
  • Color rendition not top tier
  • Lens performance doesn’t really improve when stopping down

 

Gear Used:

Purchase the NiSi 15mm F4 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany  

Purchase a Sony a7C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Sony Alpha 1 @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase a Sony a9M2 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Sony a9 Camera:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada  | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7RIV Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Buy DA Merchandise https://bit.ly/TWIMerch

Purchase a Sony a7C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK

Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Exposure Software X6 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
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Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

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Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

Check me out on:  My Patreon  | Sign Up for My Newsletter |  Instagram | Facebook | Twitter | Flickr | 500px |  Google+ |


 

Purchase the NiSi 15mm F4 @ B&H Photo https://bhpho.to/3kkdSW8 | Amazon https://amzn.to/3AncCr3 | Amazon Canada https://amzn.to/3zlLxDj | Amazon UK https://amzn.to/3EyeiAj | Amazon Germany https://amzn.to/2YZ6reP 

Keywords:  NiSi 15mm F4, NiSi, 15mm, F4, ASPH, Sunstar, NiSi 15mm Review, NiSi 15mm F4 review, NiSi 15 F4, F/4, Wide Angle, Hands On, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Sharpness, Bokeh, Flare Resistance, Autofocus, Image Quality, Sample Images, Video, Photography, Sony a9, sony a7III, sony a7RIV, a7R3,  Sony Alpha 1, Sony A1, Canon RF, Nikon Z, Fuji X

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

September 18th, 2021

NiSi has historically been a company that has made filters for other people’s lenses, and a search of their products shows a lot of filters with very high reviews.  But at some point they clearly decided that their optical glass expertise could just as easily go into the construction of lenses themselves, which has produced the very intriguing NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH lens.  This wide angle prime (it actually has an angle of view more like a 14.5mm lens) is extremely wide, but with lower distortion than most equivalent lenses.  Furthermore, by avoiding the challenges inherit in designing a very large aperture lens, they have been able to produce a lens that is compact (80.5mm in length), can use traditional screw in filters (72mm size), and that weighs only 470g despite a very nice all metal and glass construction.  As first lens design attempts go, this is a very good one.  I’ve been able to get very good results from the NiSi 15mm lens even on my demanding 50MP sensor on the Sony Alpha 1 that I’ve used for this review.

This “killer app” with this new NiSi 15mm shows up in the photo above, namely the ten straight aperture blades that produce stunning sunstars even at F4.  Yes, the blades are never fully retracted, and this design allows for beautifully rendered sunstars with long, clearly defined shafts of light that add terrific visual interest to photos.  Flare resistance is good overall, too (though not perfect), allowing you to shoot into the light and capture the beauty of brightly lit scenes.

At a price point of under $500, the NiSi 15mm is reasonably priced relative to performance, allowing photographers a chance to get a very wide angle of view on their Sony FE (reviewed here), Canon RF, Nikon Z, or Fujifilm X mount cameras.  The lens isn’t perfect, but it is a lot of lens for the money and has relatively few flaws.  You can certainly get some beautiful  and dynamic images with it!

Check out my text or videos reviews to see if this is a lens for you, or you can just enjoy the photos I’ve had a chance to take with the lens below.

 

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Thank you to NiSi for sending me a loaner of the lens for review.  As always, this is a completely independent review.  The opinions here are completely my own.

Photos of the NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH

Photos taken with the NiSi 15mm F4 ASPH

Gear Used:

Purchase the NiSi 15mm F4 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany  

Purchase a Sony a7C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Sony Alpha 1 @ Camera Canada | B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase a Sony a9M2 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Sony a9 Camera:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada  | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7RIV Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Buy DA Merchandise https://bit.ly/TWIMerch

Purchase a Sony a7C @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Camera Canada | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK

Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Exposure Software X6 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

Check me out on:  My Patreon  | Sign Up for My Newsletter |  Instagram | Facebook | Twitter | Flickr | 500px |  Google+ |


 

Purchase the NiSi 15mm F4 @ B&H Photo https://bhpho.to/3kkdSW8 | Amazon https://amzn.to/3AncCr3 | Amazon Canada https://amzn.to/3zlLxDj | Amazon UK https://amzn.to/3EyeiAj | Amazon Germany https://amzn.to/2YZ6reP 

Keywords:  NiSi 15mm F4, NiSi, 15mm, F4, ASPH, Sunstar, NiSi 15mm Review, NiSi 15mm F4 review, NiSi 15 F4, F/4, Wide Angle, Hands On, Dustin Abbott, Real World, Comparison, Sharpness, Bokeh, Flare Resistance, Autofocus, Image Quality, Sample Images, Video, Photography, Sony a9, sony a7III, sony a7RIV, a7R3,  Sony Alpha 1, Sony A1, Canon RF, Nikon Z, Fuji X

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.