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Sony a9 (ILCE-9) Review

Dustin Abbott

November 11th, 2019

I was impressed when the Sony a9’s amazing tracking abilities and blazing fast burst rate of 20 FPS was revealed, but at the time I had little personal interest in a premium-priced Sony mirrorless camera.  Telephoto options were limited, I had been fairly unimpressed with the total package of the a7RII, and I was still firmly in the Canon camp.  Fast forward two-and-a-half and there’s a different reality on the ground.  Market forces have driven down the price of the a9 (I bought a used one for under $2500 USD), there has been a massive amount of new lens releases (including some excellent telephoto options), and Sony has done a number of firmware updates that have brought real, tangible improvements to the a9 (things like intervalometer, real-time Eye AF, and more).  I had strongly considered adding an a7III to my kit for the sports tracking abilities, shooting wildlife, and testing telephoto lenses, but I realized that there were still some significant advantages to the a9 (faster burst rate, better viewfinder, deeper buffers, and more), so suddenly for me (and a number of other photographers), the a9 became an appealing alternative.  This review is a little different than many that I do, as my purpose is to evaluate whether or not the ILCE-9 (Interchangeable Lens Camera with E-mount) should be on your radar in 2019 even with newer options (including the Sony a9II) now available. 

I mentioned firmware updates, and that is actually one of the keys to the not only ongoing attractiveness of the a9, but, in some areas the growing attraction.  Sony has previously had a reputation for being so progressive in their pursuit of new technology and features that they have frequently been lax in supporting both existing products and customers.  New cameras would quickly arrive with new features while existing models still had glaring flaws that went unaddressed.  Fortunately the turnaround came with the a9, which is now on Firmware 6!!!  And Sony has not just done minor bug fixes; important new features have been introduced via firmware, which speaks both of Sony’s ongoing commitment to the a9 (and also the a7RIII/a7III) and to powerful processing abilities of this camera that have allowed for these significant improvements, which include:

  • The introduction of Real-Time Eye AF
  • Pet Eye AF
  • Interval shooting (time lapses)
  • Fast Hybrid AF for Video
  • Phase Detection at F16 (a full additional stop)
  • Increased Contrast AF points from 25 to 425!!!
  • Addition of Touch Focus and Touch Tracking capabilities

These are in addition to the more minor (typical) firmware improvements to address stability issues, improve focus, improve and add menu options and control, expand options for use with flashes, file transfers, and more.  Bottom line is that Sony has added as many additional features and improvements via firmware as many camera makers do with a new camera release.  The a9 is a much more complete camera in 2019 than it was when it was introduced in early 2017, and that’s worthy of recognition…and celebration.  Sony has most certainly NOT abandoned a9 shooters but has instead continued to improve their cameras at no additional cost to them.

The second compelling reason to consider an a9 several years later is the fact that market forces have reduced the price significantly (at least $1000 USD and often more).  I’ve seen a9’s on sale for as little as $3300 USD, which is impressive considering the incredibly robust capabilities of the camera.  After I reviewed the Sony a7III, I strongly considering adding one to my kit both for the improved autofocus performance (over the a7RIII) and the usefulness of a lower resolution camera since Sony continues to persist (even through the a7RIV) in not giving us MRAW or SRAW options (options of shooting in RAW at lower resolution).  Circumstance caused me to hold off, but due to the factors that I’ve mentioned in my introduction, I eventually began to consider a used a9 as an alternative to a new a7III.  That is ultimately what I settled on, and here are the reasons:

I more thoroughly explore these differences along with build and focus observations in the first part of my video review, which you can view here:

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So should you also consider an a9 in 2019?  Let’s explore the idea more fully together…

Sony a9 Build and Features

The body and design of the a9 feels very familiar after having spent extensive time with the a7RIII and a7III, but it was actually the first to pioneer some of the important changes that trickled down to them. There are minimal differences in size and weight between the older a7RII, the a9, and a7r3.  The a7R2 was 5 x 3.8 x 2.4” (126.9 x 95.7 x 60.3mm) and weighed 1.375 lbs (625g). The Sony a7R3 is very slightly larger at 5 x 3.8 x 2.9” (126.9 x 95.6 x 73.7mm) and 1.445 lb (657g).  The a9 has similar dimensions (5 x 3.8 x 2.5″ / 126.9 x 95.6 x 63 mm) but is slightly heavier at 1.481 lb (673g). The a9 has a slightly more “metal” feeling to it compared to any of these other cameras (and even the a7RIV), and I wonder if there aren’t a few extra reinforcements to the magnesium alloy body compared to the other cameras.

The introduction of the Sony a7RIV and a9II body has shown further improvement to the physical shape and grip of the camera with a little more room for those of us with larger hands.  I find that my pinky still has no place to go when gripping the a9. Sony actually sells a grip extension to help solve this problem – the GP-X1EM. It essentially has one purpose – to add a little more length to the grip. Ironic to pay an additional $115 to make the camera bigger! Another option is to add a battery grip, which does have the added benefit of doubling the potential battery life as well as providing some vertical controls. The VG-C3EM runs around $350.  I’m a fan of inexpensive grip extenders like this Meike that have the added benefit of making the camera Arca compatible…which means you can tighten it right down on a tripod without messing with a quick release plate.

The a9 was the camera that solved one of Sony’s biggest problems…battery life.  Previous Sony cameras would burn through the NP-FW50 battery packs very quickly…particularly if shooting 4K video. The A9 turned this around by slightly expanding the grip to allow for a much larger capacity NP-FZ100 battery. This more than doubles the capacity, as the NP-FW50 has a 1020mAh capacity compared to the 2280mAh capacity of the FZ100 battery. The end result is that what was a weakness for the a7R series has become a strength. In practical use the a9 delivers similar results to the newer a7 and a7R cameras with this battery pack.  It’s rating is down a few shots (probably due to faster processing), though the reality with the a9 is that you are more likely to shoot bursts with it and thus easily exceed the battery rating.

The ergonomics of the a9 are familiar to those who have used either recent a7R or a7 cameras…with one major change.  The basic button positions, wheels, and dials are the same, though the a9 receives one additional two level dial on the left side of the camera.  The top dial portion you to select your drive mode (stills, low speed, high speed, etc…) rather than having to access this in the FN menu.  The lower dial/lever allows you to select your focus mode (AF-C, AF-S, DMF, MF, etc…)  These additional physical controls makes on-the-fly switches easier, and is one area where Sony differentiates this premium camera physically from the others.

Everything else is pretty familiar here, with front and rear dials (typically assigned to shutter speed and aperture), a mode dial, an exposure compensation dial, rear thumbstick, and a variety of programmable buttons that allow you to really customize the behavior of the camera (something I’m a big fan of).  It’s worth noting that Sony camera do require one to spend some time setting up the camera (almost everything can be customized), but spending that time allows you to really improve the ergonomic performance of the camera.

Unfortunately there is one glaring ergonomic issue that I have to deal with in every Sony camera review. Sony continues to have the most half-baked touchscreen integration among their competitors, and lags far behind the touchscreens in the most basic of Canon’s DSLRs or mirrorless cameras. You can’t use the touchscreen to navigate menus, to navigate images during playback, to change settings, or to release the shutter. Through firmware they have added the ability to touch the screen to select the focus point in both video and stills, but not much else. You can use your finger on the touchscreen to move focus around while your eye is pressed up to the viewfinder. You can also touch the screen to select a focus point when using the LCD screen, though this will not trigger focus. What I find irritating is that there is no question that Sony is capable of doing better. I particularly find the lack of navigation ability via the touchscreen irritating. I love to pull up Canon’s Q Menu (FN on a Sony) and make quick changes with the touchscreen. Sony requires you to do all your navigation there the old fashioned way.

On a positive note, the tilting screen (while not as useful as a fully articulating screen), is definitely more convenient than a fixed screen. It’s definitely helpful in the high and low shooting positions, though not much help if you are shooting in portrait orientation.

Another positive improvement is in the viewfinder. Mirrorless cameras utilize an electronic viewfinder, which is both a strength and a weakness. To date no EVF can compare to the clarity of an optical viewfinder (like that on DSLRs). The a9 made a positive step forward by increasing resolution from 2.359MP to 3.686MP. It’s a major improvement, and I notice it particularly when magnifying the image. That being said, it is still a display rather than an optical instrument, and still has some limitations. Clarity isn’t as high as an OVF, and sometimes high contrast scenes look a little blown out in there.

But there are also huge advantages to an EVF. You have much more flexibility in what can be displayed there, from information, overlays, and even image review. In bright situations being able to review images or even video in the viewfinder can be huge.

The high refresh rate and lack of blackout (the screen going black between shots as the shutter clicks) makes tracking through this particular EVF very easy to do and is one of the great strengths of the a9.

And, for me, the biggest advantage to an EVF is when using manual focus lenses. It shows true depth of field, for one, making visual confirmation of focus easier. You can easily magnify the image in the viewfinder, allowing you to nail focus every time. You can choose to add colored focus overlays (focus peaking) in different shades that will highlight areas in focus. This final method isn’t my favorite, personally, as it makes the shooting process less organic. One of the keys to being an effective photographer is the ability to visualize – to see color, light, and shadow – and I find overlays interfere with that.  A good EVF along with the 5-axis SteadyShot Inside (In-Body-Image-Stabilization) makes Sony cameras my favorite place to use manual focus lenses.  Sony’s IBIS works really well, and will automatically detect the appropriate focal length if there are electronic contacts on the lens.  If not, you can also manually adjust the stability by manually selecting the focal length.  There are arguments as to whether sensor-based stabilization like this works as well as lens-based stabilization, but I personally prefer having IBIS because it applies to all lenses…even my classic SLR lenses.  In real world use I’ve seen little difference between Sony’s SteadyShot and lens-based IS.  This shot was taken with the Samyang AF 45mm F1.8 in extremely low light conditions and I got a solid result at 1/8th second exposure.

There are two other physical nods to professionals on the a9 that separate it from other Sony models.  This includes an Ethernet port for FTP uploads or file transfer either while shooting or afterward (sports shooters can deliver images almost instantly).  There is also a flash sync port that expands the versatility of what kinds of lights can be used for portrait photographers.  

The a9 (like the a7RIII and a7III) has two SD card slots, with the #1 Slot (oddly located on the bottom, since rectified in the a7RIV/a9II) being UHS-II compatible while the top slot (#2) is only UHS-I compatible.  My preferred setup in Sony cameras is to write RAW files to the #1 (faster) slot and JPEGs to the #2 slot.  This gives me two format options to choose from and at least a JPEG backup on my work with little slowdown.  My cards of choice these day are the Sony Tough cards.

All told this is a familiar camera at this point in many ways.  While the a7RIV and a9II have ergonomic improvements and better weather sealing, I will note that my heavily used copy (purchased used) has clearly been well-used, but is still functionally perfect.  That says something to me.

Sony a9 Autofocus

The Sony a9 is no longer a new camera, and yet few cameras have come close to the jaw-dropping autofocus performance of this beast…and it has only gotten better.  Here’s a look at how the specs compare to other models, and how the Phase Detect AF points cover nearly all the sensor (first image shows the a7RIII AF point spread), second shows the a9 point spread, and the third is a chart comparing specs):

You can see that compared to the a7RIII, for example, there are vastly more points that saturate much more of the sensor. These are supported by 425 Contrast AF points.

This, combined with vastly superior processing (10x that of the a7III, for example), allows for absolutely brilliant tracking across the frame.  What’s remarkable is that thanks to firmware updates the autofocus has only gotten better, with additions like unlocking 400 more Contrast AF points (425 vs the original 25), adding Real-Time Eye AF and Pet AF, increased sensitivity (Phase Detection at F16 is essentially unmatched), along with tracking improvements for video as well.  These real improvements have no only improved the ergonomics (Eye AF no longer has to be assigned to a button that you have to hold down to enable it) but have also improved the performance.  You now have the ability to touch an object or person on the screen, and while the shutter button is half depressed (or depressed) the camera will track them in real time with astounding Ai accuracy.

Eye AF works exceptionally well, quickly grabbing the eye (you can choose to switch between the left or right eye with a setting that can be mapped to a button) and tracking it in real time.  Pet Eye AF works well also, though again you need to switch between human and animal Eye AF as the two have very different characteristics and the camera doesn’t (yet) automatically sense which you are tracking.

I also had my best experience yet using adapted lenses.  Lenses that only worked somewhat well via, say the Sigma MC-11 on my a7RIII body work noticeably better on the a9.  Many of them work nearly as well as native lenses.  And, while the a7RIV has a vastly improved (and newer) AF system, I found that the a9 was the only camera of the group I tested to successfully track a sprinter moving towards the camera at high speed with the Canon EF 100-400mm F4.5-5.6L IS II attached via the Sigma MC-11.  The a7RIII and a7RIV didn’t advance autofocus as the sprinter moved towards the camera while the a9 tracked the whole way (every frame wasn’t perfect, but many were).  The burst speed drops to 10FPS in this scenario, but that’s still plenty to get great results.

I used a good autofocusing (but not exceptional) Samyang AF 85mm F1.4 lens for shooting basketball (at F2) and got impressively excellent results tracking the action of shooters moving to their spots and shooting jumpers.  This was true even when I purposefully put a defender in front of me where they would be blocking the face of the shooter on occasion.

I’ll revisit this section once I’ve had a chance to test one of Sony’s telephotos like the new 200-600mm F5.6-6.3G OSS lens (I don’t yet own any Sony telephotos), but based on what I’ve seen with a wide variety of other lenses (and what I’ve seen from others results), the a9 sings when paired with some of Sony’s new telephotos like the 100-400 GM, 400mm F2.8 GM, and 600mm F4 GM.  Sony’s work at expanding their catalog of telephoto lenses has certainly helped make Sony a more attractive platform for wildlife and sports work.  That, combined with the still-incredible 20 frames per second without any blackouts between shots makes tracking with good lenses much easier than ever before.

I’ve also had good success focusing in low light.  The Canon EOS R is currently the low-light focus king, but the a9 did a good job of focusing in near dark conditions with a good contrast target (books on a bookshelf).  I shot this image at ISO 32,000 and 1/13th of a second even with a F1.2 lens!  That’s the equivalent of a 20 second exposure at ISO 100!

Another positive advantage (particularly when using wider apertures) is that the electronic shutter increases the maximum shutter speed from 1/8000th second (most cameras) to a staggering 1/32,000th of a second.  This gives you even more control of the light.

I’ll add one more anecdote here.  It’s been a long-standing bone of contention that while I have hundreds (if not thousands) of lovely, well-focused portraits of my wife, whenever I hand a camera to her to take a picture of me, I seem to get almost exclusively poorly focused results of myself.  As a gear guru, I can’t even begin to fathom how my otherwise intelligent wife can’t seem to get this right.  We’ve chosen to laugh rather than cry over this unfortunate reality.  It’s a testimony to the a9 that I handed her the camera with the Sigma 35mm F1.2 attached (at F1.2) and had her shoot probably twenty shots of myself and then discovered that ALL of them were perfectly focused.

Eureka!  Technology has saved my marriage!

Sony a9 Sensor Performance

I became familiar with Sony’s 24.2 MP Full-Frame Exmor R BSI CMOS Sensor (backlit) and BIONZ X Image Processor when doing my review of the a7III.  This gives the a9 a 6000 x 4000 pixel resolution, which many users will find plenty for their applications.  I’ve actually been consistently impressed by how detailed images are from this sensor, though obviously it lacks the higher number of pixels found in the a7R camera (particularly the new a7RIV). The  BSI structure of the sensor gathers more light than conventional sensors and a front-end LSI chip improves the readout and processing speed of the camera. One can record 14-bit RAW with uncompressed or compressed options.  Here’s a look at how the file size breaks down across several Sony full frame options:

It’s worth noting that Sony thinks highly enough of this sensor that they (somewhat controversially) put it in the new a9II as well (with some minor tweaks/improvements).  The second part of the video review looks at sensor performance:

For my own purposes there is one significant disadvantage to the a9 when compared to the a7R cameras, and that is in APS-C/crop mode. For video this presents no problem, but when shooting stills it means that you are only getting a 10 MP APS-C mode instead of the much more useful 18 MP APS-C mode of the a7R3 or (even better) the 26MP APS-C of a7RIV.  That’s right – the RIV still has more resolution in crop mode than the a9 does in full resolution mode. The APS-C mode in the a9/a7III is obviously not nearly as useful.

At the same time, however, there are a few real strengths for the a9’s sensor.  Let’s explore a few of these areas:

Dynamic Range

Dynamic range has become one those topics debated ad nauseum on photography forums and harped on by certain reviewers to the place where some perspective has been lost on the topic. It has become on the key “stats” where brand fanboys either push their brand or bash another. At the same time, as a person who gets a chance to use most current gear, and one who has used the current best from Canon, Nikon, Fuji, and Sony, I can definitely say that there are a number of situations where improved dynamic range gives the photographer (and particularly the post-processor) more latitude to fulfill their vision. This could be in the ability to recover a blown-out sky or shadowed area as a landscape photographer or the ability to balance a foreground subject with a background or sky for portrait photographers.  These days it is pretty easy to recover a lot of lost details in any given image.

I have found with each of the more recent cameras that I bracket exposures for exposure blending/HDR less often, as it is often possible to get the result I want out of a single exposure. Dynamic range is the range of visible light that a sensor can record, and the Sony a9 is bettered by some of Sony’s more recent sensors in this measure.  It is rated at around 13.6 stops, which is similar to Canon’s performance with the 5D Mark IV/EOS R but falls behind the roughly 14.7 stops boasted by the a7RIII/IV and even the Sony a7III.  The latter is surprising, as one would think that the sensors are identical.  I’m not entirely sure why the a7III’s performance is better here, but it could be due to the stacked sensor of the a9 (the a7III’s sensor is not stacked) or just that Sony tweaked the sensor in the 13 months between the release of the a9 and the a7III.

While I didn’t have an a7III on hand to compare with the a9, I do own the Sony a7RIII which performed nearly as well (within a percentage point or two) in my comparisons between the two cameras and I threw the Canon EOS R (closer in resolution) into the mix for the fun of it.  

What I found when purposefully underexposing by one, two, three, and four stops and then adding that exposure back in post is that the a7R3 and a9 (and EOS R) produced very similar results through three stops, but the four-stop recovery showed cleaner results in the shadows for the a7RIII.  The a9 (and EOS R) showed light banding in the purely black shadows while the RIII stayed very smooth (Image 1 below).  The a9 gets high marks for color neutrality, however, with the  a7R3 showing a slight tendency to push towards a green tint when pushed to the limit while the a9 stayed neutral (Image 2).  The EOS R also slows a slight shift towards magenta under similar conditions (Image 3).  So, a little win for the a9 in color neutruality (also a theme at higher ISO values) but a little loss when it comes banding in the shadows during shadow recovery.

When I overexposed by one, two, three, and four stops and reduced that exposure in post, I found only a very minor difference between all three cameras. The typical trend is that modern cameras are better at recovering shadows than highlights, and that remains the case here. One can recover two stops perfectly, while three stops will produce some minor “hot spots” in the brightest area of the image. Four stops is pretty much a mess, though, with “recovered” areas not looking overly credible.  Here’s a look at what the 3 stop recovery looks like:

If you want more details, watch Part 2 of the video review.

The a7RIII was able to retain a few more tiny details than the a9 at three stops, but probably not enough to make a significant real-world difference.  The a9 is a tiny bit better than the EOS R, but again the difference is not significant.  We’ll call it middle of the pack when it comes to the competition, but towards the rear of the pack with recent Sony cameras.  In real world use I haven’t yet seen a big difference, though there is probably ever-so-slightly less latitude in recovering skies for my landscape shots.  In most conditions you’ll have no problems recovering shadows and highlights enough to fill the histogram!

The a9 doesn’t quite reach the level of the a7III in dynamic range, but is probably good enough for most photographers in most situations.  I will be interested to see if the a9II has improved to a7III levels or if it performs more similiarly to the a9.

ISO Performance

The a9 has a 100-51200 native range with extended levels that go as low as 50 and as high as 204800. This tops the a7R bodies that top out natively at ISO 32,000.  I benchmarked the a7RIII and IV along with the EOS R for my ISO tests.

The a7RIV has more visible noise even when downsampled to a9 resolution:

The a7RIII is very impressive and remains very competitive with the a9 when the image is downsampled to similar resolution, even boasting slightly smoother noise levels in the shadows at ISO 32,000.  Here’s a look in two different scenarios.  One at ISO 25,600 (about the same):

Here at ISO 32,000 (downsampled), the noise pattern appears slightly smoother on the a7RIII:

The EOS R has fairly similar noise levels but doesn’t quite retain as much contrast as the a9.

Where the a9 surpasses the a7RIII/IV is in its completely lack of color banding or cast when pushed to the limits. The a7R3 tends to skew towards a green tint, while the a9 remains impressively neutral. In fact, the color fidelity at higher ISO settings is fantastic, as is the fact that contrast remains strong. Colors look essentially the same at ISO 51,200 as they do at ISO 100, though the noise levels are much higher.  This is a camera that is clearly tuned for work at higher ISO settings.

The a7III was better than the a9 (based on the results of my previous tests) at retaining more smoothness (less obvious noise), though I will note that the a9 does a great job of retaining detail at high ISO and the noise has a film-grain-like quality that I actually like other than in the darkest of the shadow areas.

The a9 is a very good camera at high ISOs, but I do think whatever magic Sony worked on the a7III’s sensor in the interim gave it the edge in higher ISOs.  It has both the neutrality of the a9 along with lower noise levels.

Resolution

The Sony a9 lags behind the a7R bodies in the resolution category by a wide margin, and, as mentioned, the greatest impact of that is felt in the APS-C (crop) mode.  But I also feel that the a9’s resolution is at a sweet spot for a lot of things, including things likes events, sports, and weddings. The a7R bodies resolution is often overkill in those settings. I find the images out of the a9 to have great detail, and their smaller size makes them snappy to work with in post. I do feel like Sony is squeezing the most out of this sensor in terms of resolution as images have great detail at a pixel level without feeling oversharpened and developing halos.

You do have the option of shooting either compressed or uncompressed RAW images (the difference is only noticeable in more demanding situations), but you don’t have anything like MRAW or SRAW resolution options where you can still get a RAW file at a smaller resolution. This is far less of an issue than with the Sony a7R bodies, however, as the resolution is already at a reasonable area.  24MP is probably plenty for most shooters in most situations, though you occasionally will be left wanting a little more.

Color Science

Back in the day, I gave the a7R3 some criticism for its color science, which I felt lagged behind that of the models like the Canon 5D Mark IV. I continue to feel that Canon’s color is easier to play with in post, while Sony color can sometimes get “extreme” very quickly. At the same time, however, I do think that Sony has continued the processing of refining their color science, and I’ve also noted that perhaps Adobe (Lightoom and Photoshop, my main editing software) has gotten better at processing Sony colors.

The a9 strikes me as having particularly nice color rendition, however, and when I shot across the a9, a7RIII, and a7RIV with similar lenses, I found my eye a little more drawn to the colors from the a9.  When I was looking over images I had captured, for example, I found that I often naturally selected a9 images in a blind test.  Case in point is this portrait shot taken with the new Sigma 35mm F1.2 DN ART lens.  I used a Godox AD200 Pro light (through an umbrella) for fill light, and then shot the scene with both the a7RIV and the a9.  I liked the a9 colors a bit better.  The colors have a little more “pop” to them while the skin tones stay nicely neutral.  Reds, for example, seem a little more saturated.

Landscapes also look pretty great, as you can see from these examples.

The controversy over color will almost certainly continue, but it seems like this sensor is one of Sony’s better ones when it comes to color.

Video Performance

Most all of Sony’s recent cameras are fantastic video machines, and that is [mostly] true of the a9, as we’ll see.  First of all, the upside to this particular resolution means that oversampling to 4K is a cleaner, more straightforward process where the 6K pixel readout is easy to downsample to 4K without “pixel binning” (clumping pixels together and potentially skipping or dumping some information).  Sony says, “Full-pixel readout with no pixel binning makes it possible to condense approximately 2.4 times the amount of data required for 4K (the equivalent of the amount of data required for 6K) into 3,840 x 2,160 4K output. This oversampling process plus full-frame pixel readout without binning results in the highest possible 4K movie image quality.”  The non-technical answer is that the 4K footage is very clean and highly detailed.  The Sony a9 supports up to 30FPS in 4K at a maximum bitrate of 100Mbs, and Full HD 1080 at up to 120P (also with a maximum bitrate of 100Mbs).  This is pretty much standard for most Sony cameras of the last five years.

But where the Sony a9 is a little head-scratching compared to most of the other cameras is the omission of Picture Profiles, which means that SLOG is unavailable along with Cine4 and any HLG option for High Dynamic Range footage.  What’s even more odd (considering how much Sony HAS improved via firmware), is that there was apparently hints from Sony that Picture Profiles would be added via firmware…which clearly has not yet happened.  This is just a weird development on Sony’s flagship camera.  Fortunately the standard footage is very good, and for most of my purposes it was I go with anyway.

Another strength for the a9 is due to the nature of being designed around an electronic rather than mechanical shutter.  They have worked to eliminate rolling shutter from the electronic shutter, which also translates into a better camera for panning video shots as rolling shutter is essentially eliminating.  This means that vertical straight lines don’t lean as you pan by them, and it can make a big difference in certain situations.

The final great strength here is all of the tracking abilities of the camera, and the a9 utilizes Sony’s Fast Hybrid AF in video to achieve exceptional tracking.  I’m using the a9 for a lot of my YouTube channel video now because it is so reliable.  

There is both a microphone input and headphone monitoring jack, and the a9 sports a micro-HDMI output as well.

So, outside of one significant quirk, the a9’s video capabilities are excellent.

Conclusion

Roughly 2 1/2 years have passed since the Sony a9’s release, and it remains an incredible feat.  The incredible tracking abilities and blazing fast burst rate make it an exceptional tool for tracking action, and Sony has done buyers a great service by continuing to expand the capabilities of the camera via firmware.  The sheer number of real feature upgrades demonstrate both Sony’s commitment to their flagship camera and the vast potential of its processors and focus systems.  In many cases the hardware simply wouldn’t allow for this degree of improvement via firmware.  The only puzzling omission is the long-awaited firmware update that would bring Picture Profiles and SLOG to the video capabilities.  I was personally shocked to discover that they weren’t there, as every Sony camera I’ve had in hand (a7RII, III, & IV, a7III, a6500, a6400) have all had them.  That misstep aside, however, Sony has done a great job of supporting this camera.

What continues to set the a9 apart is the lack of blackout between shots.  This allows to stay perfect attuned to the situation as you track the action and to keep better composition.  The a9 fires off shots like a silenced sub-machine gun, delivering well focused results again and again.  The Eye AF and real time tracking works fantastic, and using large aperture lenses with tiny depth of field is easy to do with it’s astounding capabilities.  Sony’s continued development of telephoto lenses has helped give this camera body the tools to make it sing.

The 24MP sensor delivers high detailed images with good contrast and color, though it can’t compete at the ultimate resolution game with the a7R cameras and isn’t quite as good at high ISO and with dynamic range as the a7III.  I would love to see an a9-type camera with a 30-32MP sensor while retaining the DR and ISO performance of the a7III and the tracking abilities of the a9.  I think you could probably pretty much dispense with all other cameras at that point.  I think Sony is capable of doing it, but it will have to be with the a9III, as the a9II has just been released and doesn’t increase resolution (though I do believe the DR and ISO performance are improved, from what I’ve heard).  Market forces have driven the price down on the original a9, and Sony has done a great job of supporting it, so I thoroughly expect there to be a renewed interest in this camera for a while.  There certainly was for me, and, despite it’s shortcomings (of which there are few, actually), I’m thoroughly enjoying using the a9.  Kudos to Sony for creating something special, and double kudos to them for supporting it and making it better!

Pros:

  • Incredible burst rate
  • Deep buffer
  • No blackout makes tracking easy
  • Still incredible focus system
  • Firmware updates have improved functionality
  • Eye AF is awesome
  • 24MP sensor delivers good detail and color
  • Extra mode dials on the left side and logical and useful
  • Highly customizable setup
  • IBIS works well
  • Great support by Sony of the a9 with firmware

Cons:

  • No Picture Profiles
  • Touchscreen performance lackluster
  • Dynamic Range lags behind RIII/RIV and a7III cameras

Sony a9 Camera:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Sigma 35mm F1.2 DN ART @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Sony a7RIV Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay
Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Exposure Software X5 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

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Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Keywords: Sony a9, ILCE-9, Sony Alpha 9, Sony A9, Review, Sony, Dustin Abbott, Review, Autofocus, Sony a7RIII, Sony A7RIV, Sony a7R IV, a9, Tracking, Sports,  Hands On, Video Test, Portrait, Video, Image Quality, ISO Performance, Real World, Comparison, VS, Sensor Test, Sample Photos, Sports

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Brightin Star 12mm F2 Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

November 6th, 2019

Brightin Star is the somewhat oddly named brand (I suspect this is a Chinese idiom that gets lost in translation) that has started to produce a variety of budget manual focus lenses for a number of the popular mirrorless camera systems, including Sony, Fuji, Canon M, and m43.  The Brightin Star 12mm F2 caught my eye when considering which of their lenses to review for the simple reason that I previously owned the Samyang 12mm F2 for Canon M and loved it.  The Brightin Star 12mm F2 follows a similar pattern of a manual-everything wide angle lens with an effective aperture (on full frame) of 18mm – perfect for landscape and interiors.  Brightin Star ups the game a bit, though, with a higher grade all-metal construction, 11 rounded aperture blades (the sunstars from the Samyang are somewhat ugly due to a low six blade aperture count), and a lower price.  We’ll see if they can also match the excellent sharpness and flare resistance of the Samyang lens in our tests.  Stay tuned for more coverage of this nice wide angle option available for under $200.

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Images of the Brightin Star 12mm F2

Images taken with the Brightin Star 12mm F2

 

Purchase the Brightin Star 12mm F2 @ PerGear  (use code DUSTIN5 to get $5 off) | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK  | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay

Sony a7RIV Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK
Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Exposure Software X5 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

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Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Keywords: Brightin Star 12mm, Brightin Star 12mm F2, 12mm, F2, Brightin Star, Samyang, Rokinon, review, Brightin Star Review, Brightin Star 12mm Review, Brightin Star 12mm F2 review, F/2, Sony a6500, ILCE-9, Sony, Fuji, M43, EF-M, Dustin Abbott, Sony a7RIII, Sony A7RIV, Hands On, Video Test, Landscape, Video, Image Quality, Coma, Real World, Comparison, VS, Flare, Resolution, Sample Photos, Sample Videos

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Sony a9 (ILCE-9) Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

October 31st, 2019

While I was impressed when the Sony a9’s amazing tracking abilities and blazing fast burst rate of 20 FPS was revealed, I had little personal interest in a premium-priced Sony mirrorless camera.  Telephoto options were limited, I had been fairly unimpressed with the total package of the a7RII, and I was still firmly in the Canon camp.  Fast forward three years and there’s a different reality.  Market forces have driven down the price of the a9 (I bought a used one for $2300 USD), there has been a massive amount of new lens releases (including some excellent telephoto options), and Sony has done a number of firmware updates that have brought real, tangible improvements to the a9 (things like intervalometer, real-time Eye AF, and more).  I had strongly considered adding an a7III to my kit for the sports tracking abilities, shooting wildlife, and testing telephoto lenses, but I realized that there were still some significant advantages to the a9 (faster burst rate, better viewfinder, deeper buffers, and more), so suddenly for me (and a number of other photographers), the a9 became an appealing alternative.  My goal is to evaluate the ILCE-9 (Interchangeable Lens Camera with E-mount) and determine its value in the current market even with newer options (including the Sony a9II) now available. Stay tuned for my review, and check out the photos I’ve taken with a wide variety of lenses below:

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Images of the Sony a9 (ILCE-9)

Images taken with the Sony a9 (ILCE-9)

Sony a9 Camera:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Purchase the Sigma 35mm F1.2 DN ART @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Sony a7RIV Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay
Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Exposure Software X5 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Use Code “DUSTINHDR” to get $10 off ($15 CDN) any Skylum product:  Luminar, Aurora, or AirMagic



 

Keywords: Sony a9, ILCE-9, Sony Alpha 9, Sony A9, Review, Sony, Dustin Abbott, Review, Autofocus, Sony a7RIII, Sony A7RIV, Sony a7R IV, a9, Tracking, Sports,  Hands On, Video Test, Portrait, Video, Image Quality, ISO Performance, Real World, Comparison, VS, Sensor Test, Sample Photos, Sports

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Aurora Aperture PowerND-MC Filters Review

Dustin Abbott

July 16th, 2019

Last year I reviewed a clever rear filter solution for certain lenses that don’t take traditional filters from the company Aurora Aperture.  But Aurora Aperture has cranked up the creativity level and designed a new filter solution that, when you see it, you think, “Of course!  Why didn’t someone think of that sooner?”  This is the PowerND-MC filter lineup that leverages Sigma’s excellent MC-11 mount converter (that allows one to use Canon EF mount lenses on Sony mirrorless cameras).  There are many excellent lenses that one can adapt that don’t accept traditional filters (like the excellent Laowa 12mm F2.8 Zero D lens used for many of the shots below) or require very large ones (Sigma 85mm F1.4 ART, for example), and the PowerND-MC filtersPowerND-MC filters allow one to add a variety of filters to such lenses without any modification or an expensive filter holder. Adding a ND filter to a lens like the Laowa allows one to get killer long exposure images out of a lens that doesn’t accept filters:

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As mentioned, you don’t need any kind of filter holder or to make any modification to the MC-11 itself.  Instead the system cleverly utilizes the built in “shelf” in the MC-11 adapter as an easy place to mount filters.

The small size of these filters allows one to carry a half dozen or more in a small pouch like I show here.

PowerND-MC Build and Performance

The PowerND-MC filter lineup will launch with these filters:

  • ND Filters: 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, and 16 stops
  • Soft GND Filters: 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5 stops
  • Light Pollution Reduction Filter

I personally tested the ND16 (4 stop), ND64 (6 stop), and ND4K (12 stop) ND filters, the 2.5 stop Soft GND filter, and the Light Pollution filter.  The latter filter is useful for city work or in shooting astrophotography.  It helps images appear cool and crisp rather than dull and “muddy”.  You can see the difference in these astro images:

The filters themselves are well made, with nice metal frames, many layers of Nano coatings to make them both optically superior and resistant to scratching. 

I’ve used a lot of different filters over the years, and whenever I evaluate or test them, here are some of the things I look for:

    1. Color casts | some filters (particularly ND filters) tend to introduce a color cast to images.  Obviously the more neutral the better here.
    2. Vignetting | this primarily comes down to the thickness of the filter
    3. Reflections and flare | some filters introduce more flare artifacts when shooting into a backlit scene.
    4. Clarity | putting a bad filter in front of a good lens is like smearing Vaseline on the front of the lens.

I’m happy to report that the Aurora Aperture PowerND-MC filters didn’t set off any alarm bells for me.  Color fidelity/accuracy remained quite good even when using the 12 stop ND4K filter:

You’ll note that the filtered image is a little softer than the unfiltered image, and the reason for that will become clear in a moment.  I shot that image early on before I became familiar with dealing with the focus shift that such filters can cause.  As you can see here, however, the clarity of the filters is very high.  This image is extremely sharp despite using the ND4K filter:

Using a rear mount filter does affect focus.  This isn’t a problem with an autofocus lens, which will continue to focus fine, but it can be a problem if you are using a manual focus lens and have prefocused.  A focus shift occurs with the filter mounted, and, if you don’t refocus, this will happen:

The solution if you are using a manual focus lens is to focus after mounting the filter or to learn the amount of focus shift (which will be consistent) and adjust focus accordingly (this may be the better technique if you are hyperfocusing).

There are two other things to watch out for.  The first is fairly obvious:  when you are changing filters at the rear of the lens rather than the front of the lens, this requires removing the lens, which does increase the risk of getting your sensor dirty.  This is slightly helped by the fact that you don’t have to remove the MC-11, so at least there is some minor protection coming from the length of the MC-11.

The second issue is a common sense one.  Typically a GND (graduated neutral density) filter is being mounted on the front of the lens in a filter holder, and one can rotate that holder according the orientation one shoots in (horizontal or vertical).  That’s not an option when using a PowerND-MC GND filter, as it can only be mounted in one direction.  That means the GND filters are only useful when shooting in horizontal (landscape) orientation.  Fortunately this is the most common, and GND filters are great for helping balance a foreground and background (sky, for example) and getting a more pleasing end-result:

One final tip:  you need to put the graduated portion (dark area) on the opposite side of where you need darkened when mounting the filter.  That’s not true when mounting a front filter, but it’s true when mounting a rear-mount filter.  Counter-intuitive, I know, but that’s how it works.  Here are some photos where I’ve utilized the PowerND-MC GND filters:

I love being able to use ND filters on lenses like the Laowa 12mm, the Tamron 15-30mm F2.8, or the Irix 15mm F2.4:

Using the Dusk filter makes for gorgeous astro shots:

While you can’t see it in photos, I also used a filter like the ND16 or ND64 to help shoot LOG video for later grading.  I shot with the Sigma 28mm F1.4 ART (an amazing lens) and got some great footage.  It’s worth noting that the Sigma continued to properly autofocus on my Sony a7RIII regardless of what filter I had inserted.  You can see the footage in my video review:

All in all I think the Aurora Aperture PowerND-MC filters are genius.  They provide a reasonable-priced, clever way to add filters to lenses that otherwise wouldn’t be able to use them, and this provides one more reason to hang onto those Canon EF lenses when you switch to Sony.  They are coming to market via Kickstarter, and you can join the campaign here: https://one-mount-one-filter.kckb.st/dabbott.  The price of the filters will range from $50-95 USD.  Check out the Kickstarter for more information!  Kudos to Aurora Aperture for thinking outside the box and creating a highly useful way to add filters to the MC-11.  When I described the concept to my contact at Sigma’s Canadian distributor, he quickly reported back to me that when he described the concept to his team, their response was, “take our money now!”.  You may just feel the same way when you see these killer little filters!

Gear Used:

 Join the Kickstarter: to purchase the filters. https://one-mount-one-filter.kckb.st/dabbott
 
Sigma MC-11 Adapter:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK

Purchase the Laowa 12mm F2.8 Zero D lens @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amplis Foto (use code AMPLIS52018DA for 5% off) | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 

Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK

BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Use Code “DUSTINHDR” to get $10 off ($15 CDN) any Skylum product:  Luminar, Aurora, or AirMagic


Keywords:  Aurora Aperture, MC-11, Sigma MC-11, PowerND, Power ND, PowerND Review, Power ND MC-11 Review, Dustin Abbott, Aurora ND Review, Long Exposure, Hands On, Filter Kit, Rear Filter, Video Test, Sample Photos, How To, ND Grad, ND64, ND4000, ND16, ND1000, Dusk, Light Pollution, Astophotography, City

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 Review

Dustin Abbott

December 19th, 2018

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Samyang/Rokinon have long been known for making budget, manual everything lenses.  I reviewed my first Rokinon lens in 2013, and have reviewed 9 others since (this will be the 11th Samyang/Rokinon lens I’ve reviewed). In the last two years Samyang has shifted to developing some autofocus lenses, and this is the second of their autofocus lenses (AF) for Sony FE (full frame mirrorless) that I have reviewed.   The new priority at Korean lens maker Samyang is written all over the box of their newest lenses…literally. The letters AF festoon it in giant print on multiple sides. After years of being known as makers of relatively inexpensive manual focus prime lenses often sporting surprisingly good optics, Samyang has shifted gears and has started to develop autofocus lenses. They started on Sony’s FE (full frame E-mount), but have diversified now with a few AF lenses for Canon EF and one for Nikon F (as of the time of this review). The Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 is Samyang’s 4th lens for Sony FE, and it may just be their best thus far.

I reviewed the AF 50mm F1.4 earlier this year, and, while I liked the excellent light transmission and soft, artful bokeh, I criticized the lens for being fairly soft at wide apertures, having a lot of chromatic aberrations, and for having buzzy, somewhat unsophisticated autofocus.  While Samyang’s autofocus development remains a work in progress, Samyang’s engineers have made great strides since the AF 50mm F1.4 I reviewed at the beginning of the year and the AF 35mm is a much more sophisticated lens.  The 35AF (as we’ll refer to it) shows tremendous amounts of maturation in overall lens design. 

There are few lenses that I personally enjoy better than a good 35mm lens.  If I had to choose a single “walk around” focal length for full frame it would be 35mm.  You can create some nice bokeh when getting close to your subject, shoot portraits without much distortion if you step back and little, and 35mm serves as a great landscape focal length, too.  As a result, I have excited to test this Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 lens because 1) I love wide aperture 35mm lenses 2) I’ve heard good things about the optics and 3) because I don’t have a 35mm on Sony (I adapt my Canon EF 35mm F1.4L II).  There are three major 35mm F1.4 options now on Sony, the very expensive Sony Zeiss Distagon 35mm F1.4, the medium-priced Sigma 35mm F1.4 ART, and this Samyang AF 35mm F1.4, which is the least expensive option.  

Before progressing deeper, I’ll note that the copy I’m reviewing has the V3 firmware and this review (and my observations on autofocus) will be based on that. Because Samyang is relatively new to producing autofocus motors and autofocusing lenses, their autofocus performance is a moving target, as firmware releases have improved both focus speed and general performance. That’s great news if you are a lens owner, but as a reviewer I only have the opportunity to freeze a certain moment in time and record it in a review. The good news is that Samyang’s engineers will receive feedback based on my review and others like it, and that helps to translate into better performance for potential owners of the lenses.

Firmware updates can be had by using their Lens Station. To date this has proven a little difficult to find at times in North America, though it’s fairly easy to find on Ebay. It’s worth investing in if you are interested in Samyang lenses, and those who have owned AF lenses and had their firmware updated over time have noted fairly dramatic improvements. You can make some other tweaks to lens behavior by using the Lens Station as well. It’s encouraging that the Samyang 35AF, though a fairly recent lens, has already received two firmware updates.

The Samyang (also distributed under the Rokinon brand in Western countries) comes at a great price when compared to the Sony Zeiss Distagon 35mm F1.4. It lists at $799 in the US market, but I’ve frequently seen it at prices as low as the $500 range. The Sony/Zeiss typically hovers around the $1500 range – 3x as much at the moment. That makes the 35AF a compelling option based on price…but does it perform well enough to get your hard-earned money?

Prefer to watch your reviews? I’ve got you covered with my detailed final verdict video here:

Samyang 35AF Build, Design, and Handling

There is a mix of good and bad on this front, but the basic build and design of the lens is actually all good.  This is a sleek, nicely made, extremely modern-looking lens that has great presence on the camera.  The biggest build objections are going to be what is missing:  no switches (arguably unimportant), but, more importantly, no weather-sealing of any kind.  This video breaks down what’s there and what’s missing, and gives you an interactive look at everything.

The 35AF is a substantial lens that is actually a tiny bit larger than the Sony/Zeiss lens.  It 2.99″ (75.9mm) in diameter (so sports a common 67mm filter thread) vs the slightly thicker Sony/Zeiss at 3.09″ (78.5mm), which has a 72mm filter thread.  While slimmer, the Samyang is a bit longer at 4.53″ (115mm) than the 4.41″ (112mm) of the Sony/Zeiss.  The 35AF is even a bit heavier, at 1.42lb/645g vs 1.39lb/630g.  This size and weight is due to being 1) optically strong and 2) solidly built with what feels like some metal alloys in the lens barrel.

As noted, the lens has a very sleek design, due in part to having nothing other than the manual focus ring on it.  No switches of any kind.  The Sony/Zeiss does sport an AF/MF switch (which is nice to have) while also have a second switch to declick the aperture (also nice to have).  I personally keep the down direct on the rear D-Pad mapped to a quick switch to MF to make up the difference with lenses, so that’s not a huge deal to me, though I do prefer having the physical switch.  There is no option for declicking the aperture, as, unlike the Sony/Zeiss, there is no aperture ring on the lens.  This will significant for some videographers, particularly those who do employ techniques like aperture racking, but for most shooters this will not be missed.  I would recommend looking elsewhere if you are seriously into video.  The Zeiss Loxia 35mm F2 is probably the better option for filmmakers, though the Sony/Zeiss Distagon may also be appealing.

The tradeoff for having not switches or rings on the barrel is that if you like minimalism, this arguably one of the better looking lenses on the Sony platform.  It has a sleek, anodized look, broken up only by the wide, tightly ribbed manual focus ring and an elegant red accent ring near the front like a Canon L series lens…though arguably a little classier.  The lens looks and feel great!

The 35AF, like most mirrorless lenses, is designed with a “focus-by-wire” manual focus system.  With such lenses there is not direct coupling between the focus ring and internal focus elements.  Instead input from the MF ring is registered and run through the focus motor itself, which then drives the elements forward or backward to achieve manual focus.  Due to the nature of this focus system there is no “hard stops” at minimum or infinity…the ring can be moved endlessly with no limit on either end.  The “feel” of these focus rings still varies widely, however, with some easier to use than others.  On Sony, MF is aided by two things.  First, when input is detected on the focus ring on the 35AF, the selected focus area will automatically be magnified in the viewfinder or LCD screen to help you visually confirm focus, and a digital distance scale will also be displayed to help you determine the distance to the subject.  You can further augment this with focus overlays if desired.  

The focus ring moves fine (smoothly) for major focus shifts, though I find that it isn’t as precise as what I would like when fine tuning focus.  It’s almost as if there is a tiny amounts of drag or stickiness when trying to finely tune focus, and so instead of moving with even resistance you feel an ever-so-tiny catch and release, catch and release.  Note that I’m trying to explain something that is very small, but I do find that I don’t enjoy precision MF as much as what I do on some other lenses.  It’s not bad, but neither is it exceptional.

As previously noted, the 35AF does not have weather sealing.  It has a nice metal lens mount, but gasket there to help keep out dust and moisture, nor does it have internal sealing.  On Samyang’s most recent autofocus lenses for DSLRs they have started to include weather sealing, so I’m hopeful that future lenses for Sony FE (85mm and 135mm, please!) might include this.

The lens has nine rounded aperture blades which do retain a circular shape at wider apertures, but when stopped down to F5.6 or smaller you can see the nonagonal shape.  

There is no image stabilization in the lens, but neither is there in any of the competing lenses on Sony, either.  This is handled in body by Steady Shot, and it works well enough to allow for low shutter speeds where desired.  I got plenty of keepers around 1/10th second, which, considering the high resolution of the a7R3 that I was testing it on, seems very reasonable.  This cat photo is a 1/10th second shutter speed shot, and looks fine…and that’s with a living subject…and things that breathe move.

You focus as closely as near one foot (30cm) and achieve a maximum magnification figure of 0.17x (1:5.9).  That lags a bit behind the 0.18x of the Sony/Zeiss, but not enough to be meaningful.  This is still useful for getting close to a subject and blowing out the background:

Though I do wish it were weather-sealed, this is a beautifully made lens that feels more premium than what its price suggests.  I own the Sony/Zeiss Planar 50mm F1.4, and the Samyang AF35 feels more similar than different to that lens.

Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 FE Autofocus Performance

Autofocus is the new priority at Samyang, and outside of their premium XP series of manual focus lenses (which are pretty fantastic), pretty much all their recent lenses have been autofocus lenses.  As I noted earlier, autofocus remains a work in progress at Samyang.  My review of the 50mm F1.4 criticized the somewhat crude nature of the autofocus motor, which was somewhat buzzy, slower than competing lenses, and with a general lack of sophistication.  Samyang debuted a new focus system in the 35AF, however, which they call Dual LSM (Linear Sonic Motor).  If I understand correctly, there are actually two motors engaged in the focus process, which produced faster, MUCH quieter, and generally accurate autofocus.

There’s no question that the autofocus is now much quieter.  Gone is the buzzy sound of a focus motor that seemed to be laboring.  Autofocus is achieved very quickly, with only the faintest sound of tiny pulses as the lens rapidly locks focus.  The loudest sound you will hear single shot mode is the sound of focus being locked.  AF-S (or DMF) are my preferred focus modes with the 35AF.  It behaves nearly identically to my very expensive Sony/Zeiss Planar lens in AF-S, providing near instant, very quiet focus results.  Focus precision is generally excellent as well.

If I were commenting solely on single shot AF, I would assert that the Samyang 35AF works pretty much equally well to other lenses in my kit or that I’ve tested.  But there are still some quirks to be worked out when you switch over to AF-C (continuous autofocus).  Autofocus continues to be rapid, but there is a little more noise in general, mostly because the focus motor refuses to lock and settle, even if the subject is static.  There are near constant micro-pulses, and you can visually see focus settling, slightly defocusing, and then refocusing.  This is not a major defocus (focus rack); it happens on a micro level.  The problem comes if you happen to take a photo during one of those split second when focus is doing a micro-pulse.  The three image crops below were taken a few seconds apart.  Two well focused results bracket a very poorly focused result.  The difference is that microadjustment.

I was intrigued by this focus pattern, so I ran a series of real-world portrait tests to determine what the issue was.  I first mounted the camera on a tripod and then used EYE AF to focus on my model, and had her sit still while I defocused in between shots.  I shot with F1.4. so the margin for error would be very high.  I had a near perfect run over 30 shots even as I changed different focus modes (AF-C all points active, AF-C Flexi-point, and AF-S).  I put the Sony/Zeiss Planar on and got essentially identical behavior.  Here’s a look at 9 images from the AF-C series:

Very consistent.  Okay, so why didn’t I see as consistent a result in real world shooting in AF-C mode?  I decided to introduce a few more variables.  I shot two more comparisons, both at F1.4 again, in AF-C mode using EYE-AF, but this time I shot handheld and had my subject shift poses between each shot.  In the first series I had SteadyShot ON (IBIS).  My keeper rate dropped (I showed you a few frames above) to about 40% perfectly focused and 70% acceptably focused.  

I then tried the same test with SteadyShot OFF.  I saw somewhat improved results, with about 58% perfectly focused and 85% acceptably focused.  I also saw, on some shots, some evidence of a bit of motion blur (shutter speed was at 1/80th second, which is enough to eliminate most camera shake but not enough to eliminate subject movement).  Here’s the final six of those frames to show you the variables:

IBIS being on or off did make a difference, so I surmise that perhaps the act of stabilizing the lens may cause slightly more of that microadjusting.  You may notice a mild improvement in situations where you don’t need SteadyShot by turning it off, or that may not be a factor at all with your camera and lens combination.  Now, to be fair, it is often possible to visually see when focus is more accurate and click the shutter then, and obviously a smaller aperture and deeper depth of field would hide some of those minor variances.  Still, with the V3 firmware on the 35AF that I was reviewing, I did prefer its behavior in AF-S mode for stills.  It behaves as well as my Sony lenses in AF-S, essentially as fast, quiet, and accurate as them. It is capable of being a lovely portrait lens:

At smaller apertures it can turn even a casual shot on a street into something special:

I’ve given Samyang’s engineers feedback on the AF-C performance, and was told that they are aware and continuing to work to refine that behavior, so here’s hoping for more improvement in future firmware updates.

I was actually less concerned over AF-C performance during video capture.  The 35AF did a fairly good job of tracking my face (there are some clips in the video review that show this), and, with proper settings, I found that I got a very good AF performance while shooting one of my static, on camera segments (check out the intro portion of this video, which was shot using the Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 on the Sony a7R3).  That video review also has some video clips taken of other scenes as well, and the lens does pretty well during video servo AF.

There’s no question that the Samyang 35AF is a huge step forward for Samyang in the quality and consistency of focus.  Their Dual LSM focus motor system in this lens is a very positive development that shows much more sophistication than the last autofocusing Samyang lens I used.  I do think there is still room for improvement (particularly when shooting in AF-C), but it does appear that Samyang is committed to supporting their lenses and continuing development in this area.  I’m encouraged by what I’ve seen.

Samyang 35AF Image Quality

The best way to break down the image quality from the Samyang 35AF is by watching this video where I interactively break down its performance with real-world images and controlled tests:

I break image quality down in two main categories:  resolution and rendering.  Resolution covers the nuts and bolts of lens sharpness and the factors that impact that, including things like longitudinal chromatic aberrations, distortion, and vignette.  Under the rendering heading I look at other aspects of image quality, from color to aberrations to bokeh, flare resistance, and more.

Resolution

The only 35mm F1.4 lens that I had on hand to compare the Samyang to was what I consider to be the best autofocusing 35mm lens out there – the Canon EF 35mm F1.4L II (a lens that I consider their best prime lens under 200mm, though the new Canon RF 50mm F1.2L may convince me otherwise when I review it).  It may be a little unfair to compare the 35AF to a Canon lens that costs at least 3x as much, though I felt the Samyang didn’t fall apart when compared to this lofty competition.

Let’s first take a look at the global image from the Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 and 42MP Sony a7R3.  While Sony does support third party lens corrections and does at times embed corrections into even RAW files, I feel like the RAW files are arriving fairly uncorrected.  When I compare the JPEG and RAW versions of the same file, for example, this is what I see:

So, there is definitely no correction of distortion and vignette automatically taking place on the RAW files, though the JPEG looks fairly well corrected.  What we can see is a moderate amount of barrel distortion and vignette.  If I compare to the Canon lens, the vignette is heavier on the Canon but the distortion is milder. 

When I compared the Samyang AF 50mm F1.4 to the Sony/Zeiss Planar and 55mm F1.8 Sonnar lenses, I discovered that the Samyang actually had better light transmission than both of them.  It produced a brighter image with equal settings.  The AF35 also shares this strength, clearly, as though the Canon lens metered with a 1/3rd stop slower shutter speed (1/2000th vs 1/2500th for the Samyang), the Samyang’s histogram was still shifted further left (brighter) than the Canon.  I would estimate the light transmission advantage to be somewhere near one half stop for the Samyang…and that’s a good thing!

The Canon’s superior contrast and resolution can be easily seen at F1.4, however.  In the center of the frame the resolution difference is not significant, though you can definitely see that the Canon has superior contrast.  There is a slight haze to textures that show the superior microcontrast of the premium Canon lens.

That advantage is more pronounced near the edge of the frame, where the Samyang shows a great drop-off in performance than the Canon. 

I also noted a slight centering issue where the right side seemed sharper/better focused than the left.  I ran some tests to see if it was a centering issue or field curvature issue where the lens struggles to focus both sides of the frame identically.  I found that focusing on the center (where I typically focus for these tests) produced a stronger right side performance than left side (though not by a huge margin).  If I focused on the left side, the left side was sharper but the center and right sides were slightly softer.  If I focused on the right side, the right side and center looked great but the left side was noticeably out of focus.  A slight decentering issue seems the to be the problem, though fortunately at smaller apertures it less apparent and doesn’t often seem to affect real world results.  This shot, for example, shows nice sharpness at F5.6 on either edge of the image:

I should also point out that this image was taken at 1/15th of a second, which shows the value of Sony’s SteadyShot.

The reason for the contrast difference can be seen in this shot, which shows that Canon has better control of the longitudinal chromatic aberrations that do cheat a lens of some microcontrast:

You can see some green fringing from the Samyang that the Canon lacks, and thus the Canon shows a little more “bite” on the plane of focus.  The 35AF has much better aberrations control than what the 50AF did, though. Stopping the Samyang down to F2 shows a definite improvement in contrast.

A peak at the edge shows both haze and vignette lifting, allowing for a sharper looking image.  

Stopping on down to F2.8 reveals a now excellent edge performance, with the vignette and haze fully cleared and sharp, crisp textures.

If we check back in with the Canon now, we find that there is little to distinguish them even on the edge.  I would ever-so-slightly favor the Canon’s result, but I don’t think it would detectable without the side-by-side comparison.  That’s impressive considering the price difference between the two.

This real-world, three dimensional subject comparison shot shows that if I did not label the two lenses, you would have a hard time distinguishing between the two.

Here’s a couple of real world F2 results that show that this lens can produce gorgeous results in more typical shooting conditions.

Stopping it down to landscape apertures allows it to produce highly detailed images that can really shine:

The AF35 is one of Samyang’s best lenses optically.  It delivers a strong performance in resolution and contrast, and, while outclassed by the superior Canon lens, it isn’t by much.

Rendering

What about the other metrics of image quality?  One of the things that I personally do if I’m considering a lens that’s been on the market for a while is to look at groups on Flickr or other places that are dedicated to that lens.  I like to see the kinds of images that people have been able to produce with it, for, while the end results vary according to the individual’s talent and ability to post-process, I start to get a feel for what a lens is capable of.  It was the general rendering of this lens that drew me to it.

We’ve noted that the lens delivers quite a strong resolution performance, though wide aperture contrast is held back a bit by longitudinal chromatic aberrations.  There aren’t any additional aberrations, however, as I find no evidence of lateral CA in real world photos.  You will spot a little green fringing in some shots, but, as you can see from this photo, the lens delivers fairly crisp results even at F1.4:

Here’s another photo that I find interesting that I shot at F1.4 in challenging conditions:

I typically find Samyang glass renders slightly warm, and I think that is the case here, though it seems fairly mild to me.  Here’s a look at the color rendition from the lens under controlled lighting.

It seemed a little warmer than the Canon lens when I used them side by side, but I don’t see a significant difference when compared to the Sony Planar lens:

While I’ve mostly been shooting in winter, I have found a few bright moments to catch some color, and it looks fine to me:

How about flare resistance?  I shot these tests on an extremely bright day with fresh snow reflecting a lot of light.  I found some mild ghosting effects (look at the lower third of the image), but they didn’t seem particularly pronounced.  Stopped down (F11) the ghosting pattern has more a more defined pattern, but it doesn’t grow to destructive proportions and contrast has held very strong.  In the third image (strongly backlit at F1.4), I found contrast has held up very well.  

The 35AF is not completely resistant to flare, but this is an area where it fares better than the Canon (which I’ve owned for years and have a lot of experience with).  I give it good marks in this regard.

Finally, let’s talk about the bokeh.  It’s a slightly mixed bag.  In general I quite like it, as it allows objects in either the foreground or the background to nicely melt away.

You can get close to subjects and really create a creamy background that looks very nice.  I even find the transition zone renders fairly well and doesn’t get too busy.

The Achilles’s heel of the lens is if bright lights are part of the defocused area, because that’s when the concentric circles show up.  Commonly called “onion bokeh”, this is a look that I’m personally not a big fan of.

You can reduce that look through post-processing, but if you shoot a lot of shots with these type of lights in the background, this may not be the lens for you.  If you don’t, I suspect that you will like the bokeh from this lens just fine.

I’ve used the 35AF for portraits, for events, for general purpose and city work, and for landscapes.  It’s a focal length that works well for a lot of stuff, and it’s a lens I’ve reached for often during my review period.  The Canon 35L II is optically superior at wide apertures and is slightly better corrected, but the argument for the Samyang is the same as it would be for the Sony/Zeiss Distagon 35mm F1.4, namely that it provides most of the same performance for around a third of the price.  The difference between the Samyang and the Distagon would be even less pronounced, as the Canon is superior to the Sony lens.

Here are few more images taken during my review period, and you can find more by visiting the Image Gallery here

Conclusion

My time with the Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 left me encouraged about Samyang’s future.  They have significantly improved the autofocus performance with a much more sophisticated focus motor that is faster, quieter, and more competent in operation.  As I noted, I do think there are still a few quirks to work out with AF-C performance, but the lens performs quite well overall (particularly if you use AF-S).  Optically it delivers at least 90% of the expensive competitors at something closer to 35-40% of the price, so that makes it a strong value proposition.  This is just the kind of the lens that has been needed in the Sony FE mount – strong performing third party alternatives to those who can’t justify (or can’t afford) the much higher price for the premium option.  I could not and would not positively recommend the AF 50mm F1.4, but I can recommend the AF35 with no hesitation.  

Pros:

  • Nice build and a great looking lens
  • Much improved autofocus that is fast and quiet…particularly in AF-S mode
  • Strong image quality with good resolution
  • Good bokeh quality in most situations
  • Good flare resistance
  • Excellent light transmission
  • Excellent price-to-performance ratio

Cons:

  • No weather sealing
  • AF-C autofocus not as confident as AF-S
  • Some onion-bokeh if bright lights in the frame
  • Some barrel distortion
  • Manual focus ring could be a little more precise

Gear Used:
Purchase the Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay
Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

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Keywords:  Samyang AF, Rokinon AF, Samyang 35 1.4, Samyang 35 F1.4, Samyang AF 35mm, Samyang AF 35mm 1.4, F1.4, F/1.4, AF, AF 35mm, 35mm, Dustin Abbott, Samyang AF 35mm review, Samyang 35 1.4 Review, Rokinon 35 1.4 review, autofocus, image quality, sample photos, video test, video review, Sony, FE, E-mount, a7R3, a7riii, a7iii, a73

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 FE Image Gallery

Dustin Abbott

November 26th, 2018

Samyang/Rokinon have long been known for making budget, manual everything lenses.  I reviewed my first Rokinon lens in 2013, and have reviewed 9 others since (this will be the 11th Samyang/Rokinon lens I’ve reviewed).  In the last two years Samyang has shifted to developing some autofocus lenses, and this is the second of their autofocus lenses (AF) for Sony FE (full frame mirrorless) that I have reviewed.  There are few lenses that I personally enjoy better than a good 35mm lens.  If I had to choose a single “walk around” focal length for full frame it would be 35mm.  You can create some nice bokeh when getting close to your subject, shoot portraits without much distortion if you step back and little, and 35mm serves as a great landscape focal length, too.  As a result, I have excited to test this Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 lens because 1) I love wide aperture 35mm lenses 2) I’ve heard good things about the optics and 3) because I don’t have a 35mm on Sony (I adapt my Canon EF 35mm F1.4L II).  There are three major 35mm F1.4 options now on Sony, the very expensive Sony Zeiss Distagon 35mm F1.4, the medium-priced Sigma 35mm F1.4 ART, and this Samyang AF 35mm F1.4, which is the least expensive option.  While Samyang’s autofocus development remains a work in progress, they have made great strides since the AF 50mm F1.4 I reviewed at the beginning of the year and the AF 35mm is a much more sophisticated lens.  I like it better optically and definitely find the autofocus performance much better.  The images in this gallery will help you see just what this lens is capable of, and I’ll follow that up with my review that will highlight the strengths and weaknesses and help you decided whether or not it is the lens for you.

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Photos of the Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 FE

Photos taken with the Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 FE

Gear Used:
Purchase the Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 @ B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay 
Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay
Peak Design Leash Strap:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X4 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)
Visit Dustin’s Amazon Storefront and see his favorite gear

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

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Keywords:  Samyang AF, Rokinon AF, Samyang 35 1.4, Samyang 35 F1.4, Samyang AF 35mm, Samyang AF 35mm 1.4, F1.4, F/1.4, AF, AF 35mm, 35mm, Dustin Abbott, Samyang AF 35mm review, Samyang 35 1.4 Review, Rokinon 35 1.4 review, autofocus, image quality, sample photos, video test, video review, Sony, FE, E-mount, a7R3, a7riii, a7iii, a73

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Aurora Aperture PowerND Rear Filter Kit Review

Dustin Abbott

September 23rd, 2018

Wide angle lenses and filters are a bit of a nightmare.  One of the main challenges many photographers have to consider is that using anything but the bare lens involves expense, bulk, and inconvenience.  Lenses with less focal lengths and smaller maximum apertures can often use typical screw-in filters, but at the cost of less dramatic angles of view and less light gathering potential.  Fortunately there are some people out there who are applying themselves to trying to solve these problems, and one of them is Aurora Aperture.  They have carved out a niche for themselves by making quality, innovative, and reasonably-priced filters.  One of their more recent projects is the PowerND rear filter kit that tackles those lenses where standard screw-in filters are out of the question.  They primarily make the PowerND kit for Canon lenses (those with a rear gel-filter holder), including:

  • EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye
  • EF 11-24mm F4L USM
  • EF 14mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye
  • EF 16-35mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 17-35mm f/2.8L USM
  • EF 17-40mm f/4L USM

You can catch my full video review here:

In this case, I’m actually reviewing the kit on the Irix 15mm f/2.4 Blackstone lens that I recently reviewed.  The Irix lens is unusual in that it has a wide focal length (15mm), wide maximum aperture (f/2.4), and yet can still take screw-in filters, though at a very large 95mm size.  It also has a rear gel filter holder.  Aurora Aperture makes this PowerND filter kit for the Irix 15mm, but also the 11mm f/4, which cannot use screw-in filters.

The traditional problem with gel filters is that they are optically uninspiring.  By nature they are made of inferior materials (gelatin), which produces reduced optical performance in terms of resolution and clarity.  They also often introduce color casts (typically blue or magenta depending on the manufacturer).  Traditional screw on ND filters also frequently have an issue with color casts, in my experience (I’ve used a number of different filters and systems from a number of different manufacturers), and they also typically have a problem with introducing heavy vignetting.  Any natural (mechanical) vignette introduced by adding something to the front of a lens gets more and more exaggerated the longer the exposure lasts.

But without filters, photographers have few options for limiting the amount of light that reaches the sensor, making long exposure shots near impossible.  Long exposures can really add drama to an image, and turn a rather bland image into something far more dramatic.  Long exposures are also great ways to eliminate distractions like tourists at popular spots.  In a very long exposure they simply disappear.  Would you believe that during this shot a man brought his dog down to drink about ten feet in front of the camera?  The dog drank, moved around for about 20 seconds, and they left.  No trace left in the image.

You can’t do that without a long exposure, and in that kind of light, you simply can’t create a long exposure without a neutral density (ND) filter.  Think of ND filters as being sunglasses for your lens.  In mild forms (like the ND8 included here), it just helps to reduce glare and can enrich colors.  It can also help in using wide apertures in bright conditions.  In more extreme forms, however, it cuts the light so significantly that you need a very long exposure period to produce a properly exposed image.  During that long exposure a lot of dramatic things can happen.  The images in this review in no way represent optimal conditions for LE (long exposure) work, and yet there is a lot of drama that has been introduced into them.

Aurora Aperture recognized the strengths of a rear gel filter system (small, no vignette, less chance of flare/artifacts) but also saw that the typical gel filters didn’t provide the optical quality necessary.  So, they designed the PowerND, which replaces the standard gel filter holder (typically plastic) with the Aurora IR filter holder made from CNC aluminum alloy.  They include the small screwdriver to do the quick swap and some extra little screws in case you lose a few.  The screwdriver seems to have a bit of magnetizing that helps hold the little screws in place, and it made the job easy.  I did it in less than 5 minutes, and that included taking a few photos during the process.

This new filter holder allows you to use Aurora Aperture’s high end PowerND filters, which are made from Gorilla Glass® like smartphone screens.  Real, high end optical glass, with multi-layer nano coatings that are applied to filters for both light reduction and surface protection. These boast 128 layers of nano coating!  The nano-coating provides protection against moisture, oil, dust (fingerprints), making them easy to clean.  I would have liked to see a cleaning cloth included in the kit, actually, as it is always useful to have along.  They are small, and, while you can grip them on the square end without any fingerprints actually interacting with the image, I still like to keep things clean.

The byproduct of this approach is impressive.  There is absolutely no extra vignette introduced, and color casts are as low as I’ve ever seen.  I’m hard pressed to say that any real color casts are introduced, which has not been my experience at all with ND filters in the past.

The Aurora IR filter set (PowerND) comes with a IR filter holder and four IR format ND filters in the rating of ND 8 (3 stops), ND64 (6 stops), ND 4000 (12 stops), and ND 65000 (16 stops).  I would prefer an ND1000 to be included (10 stops), as that is often a sweet spot for my work.  I would rather the ND65000 (which is too extreme to be used in many situations) be replaced by the ND 4000 as the upper end and the ND 1000 to be inserted into the kit.  I find that the ND 4000 often requires 5 minute plus exposures at f/8 even in the middle of the day, and by my calculations it seems to behave more like a 13-14 stop reduction in light rather than 12.  I’ve yet to find a situation where I felt I needed the more extreme ND 65000.

Shooting extremely long exposures will require you to enter bulb mode on your camera, and I find that a remote release like the Vello Shutterboss helps by allowing you to stray away from the camera and retain a digital readout on how long the exposure has gone.

It’s pretty remarkable how compact the PowerND kit is.  The filter holder stays permanently mounted on the lens and doesn’t interfere with anything.  The four filters come in a little case that is easy to bring along.  The only thing to watch out for is the added risk of having your camera exposed while you swap filters on and off (this requires unmounting the lens), as you can introduce some dust or moisture if conditions are poor.  I’ve personally had no problems, but I do try to be cautious.  There is a little felt-like area on the IR Filter mount that allows you to slide the filters into place without scratching them.

I’m very impressed optically as well.  There is little loss of detail or clarity (this photo and crop is a nearly 5 minute exposure using the ND 4000 filter).

There is next to no color casts.  You can go from a fairly boring image to dramatic one by increasing the exposure time (just go to a “heavier” ND filter).

The PowerND kit from Aurora Aperture comes with the filter holder, the tools for the swap, and the four filters.  It costs around $250 USD, which seems moderately expensive only because everything is so small.  When you compare it to what it would cost to get an equivalent setup in a front filter holder, you realize that you would easily spend 2-3 times as much.  Yes, gel filters are much cheaper, but they are also deliver dramatically poorer results.  This system works very well!

Finally, here’s a few things to watch for for LE work in general.  First, you need to learn to pick the right subjects for long exposure.  Over a long period anything that moves will become blurred.  You need to choose a static subject (rocks, buildings, etc…) that will be a constant while everything else moves around it.  Secondly, hot pixels are a reality of LE work.  These show up as red, for example, like in this photo:

They typically don’t last, but if they persist in other images, put the lens cap on a lens and take a 30 second exposure.  It will just be black, but it will typically remap the pixels and eliminate the hot pixel issue.

Finally, the heavier ND filters (ND 4000 and ND 65000) will cut the light so much that you won’t be able to see to focus in either the viewfinder or the LCD screen, and autofocus won’t work.  You have a couple of options.  You can use hyperfocal techniques (look it up if you aren’t familiar), or focus with the ND8 or ND64 filter on (if the lens has autofocus it will probably still work, and, if it doesn’t, you can see enough still to focus in many lighting conditions).  It’s better to do this with at least a filter on, however, as the ND 4000 and ND 65000 filters can cause some focus shift.  Prefocus the lens, then carefully remove it, change the filter to the desired one, and then remount the lens.  Long exposure work, like other specialized photography, requires some work to refine your technique, but the end results are well worth it!  Aurora Aperture’s PowerND filter system is a great choice if you happen to own a lens that it is compatible with.  Highly recommended!

More Photos from PowerND

Purchase the Aurora Aperture PowerND:  Amazon | B&H Photo | Ebay | Amazon Canada 
Canon EOS 5D Mark IV (5D4): B&H Photo | Amazon.com | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Irix Blackstone 15mm f/2.4:  B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Amazon Germany | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK

Peak Design Leash Strap: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
BenQ SW271 4K Photo Editing Monitor – B&H Photo  | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X2 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)

Purchasing your gear through B&H and these links helps fund this website and keeps the articles coming. You can also make a donation here if you would like.  Visit my Amazon page for some of my gear of choice! Thank you for your support.

B&H Logo

Great News! I can now offer a 5% discount on all purchases at Amplis Foto, Canada’s Leading Photographic Supplier. Please enter discount code: AMPLIS52018DA in your cart. It is good for everything in your cart, and is stackable with other coupons, too! It will take 5% off your entire order! Proceeds go towards keeping this site going and providing you with new reviews!

Check me out on:

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Keywords:  Aurora Aperture, PowerND, Power ND, PowerND Review, Power ND Review, Dustin Abbott, Aurora ND Review, Canon 11-24mm, Irix 15mm, Irix 11mm, Canon 8-15mm, Long Exposure, Hands On, Filter Kit, Rear Filter, Video Test, Sample Photos, How To

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Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 Review

Dustin Abbott

May 25th, 2018

Towards the end of 2017 I spent time with my first Kamlan lens – the Kamlan 50mm f/1.1 compact prime lens. There were things that I praised, including a very nice build quality (all metal and glass) and nice rendering (including good color rendition and excellent bokeh quality). There were other things I liked less, including some quirks in the build and mechanical operation of the lens (sticking points in the aperture ring and a lens bayonet mount that required too much force to mount or release). I also criticized the low contrast and sharpness at wide apertures, the very flare-prone nature of the lens, and some chromatic aberrations. My final verdict of that lens was that despite some flaws it provided an inexpensive way for photographers to get some unique images due to the huge maximum aperture of the lens. So when Sainsonic approached me about reviewing their next lens – the Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 – I quickly agreed. In many ways the Kamlan 28mm is a less extreme instrument, but that also makes it a better lens in near every way. And, at a price tag of well under $200, it is going to be a very interesting option for those who want a “budget premium” prime lens.

Prefer to watch your reviews? Click below to watch my full review and image quality breakdown:

Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 Build, Design, and Handling

The Kamlan 28mm perfectly fits the niche as an inexpensive fast “normal” prime lens. “Normal” lenses are valued because they provide a natural angle of view that is similar to what the human eye sees. The images they produce are very relatable and engaging because they feel like scenes people have seen. The focal length is extremely versatile for a wide range of applications – from landscapes to portraits to street photography. In recent years, many people have thought of the 50mm focal length (on full frame) as “normal”, but in times past a normal lens was actually closer to 40mm. I was initially somewhat put off by the focal length when Tamron released a 45mm f/1.8 lens a few years ago, but when I began to use the lens, I discovered that in many ways I liked it better than the classic 50mm focal length. I ended up purchasing that lens and have found that it is a lens I often reach for.

The Kamlan 28mm is essentially that lens for APS-C cameras. I’m reviewing it on Sony APS-C (a6500), where it has a 42mm (35mm full frame equivalent) focal length on Sony E and Fuji X mounts. On Canon M the 35mm equivalent focal length is 44.8mm, and on M43 it is 56mm. In practical use I’ve already found the lens’ focal length to be very useful for a wide range of subjects.  Here’s a quick sampling of some the things that I’ve used the lens to shoot:

Street:

Landscape:

People:

Close Focus:

The Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 sports an all metal and glass design with a similar design ethos to the 50mm f/1.1 (not a bad thing). The lens has a classic premium feel that belies its inexpensive price tag. In many ways it reminds me of the Laowa lenses that I’ve reviewed, with many similar strengths and weakness. I was happy to find a maturing design and engineering process with the Kamlan 28mm. Most of my concerns with the build on the previous lens have been addressed.  You can catch those details in this video, where I breakdown the build, design, and handling of the lens:

It is an extremely compact lens, with a diameter of 56mm (2.2”) and a length of 68mm (2.7”). It easily fits in the palm of your hand and is a great physical match to the Sony a6500 that I’m reviewing it on. Despite it’s compact size, it has some heft due to being all metal and glass in construction, and weighs in at 344g (12 oz). It’s not heavy in an absolute sense (and balances well on the camera), but the heft of the Kamlan 28 belies its very compact size.

Kamlan has continued to utilize a “declicked” manual aperture ring, which is prized by videographers for allowing smooth aperture changes while retaining traditional aperture stop markers for stills photographers. I don’t mind the declicked aperture, though for stills it requires visual confirmation to see approximately where you are in terms of aperture value as you can’t rely on the tactile feedback from the predefined aperture detents of a typical aperture ring. The upside is that you can essentially select any aperture size between f/1.4 and f/16 without worrying about full/partial stops. My concern with the 50mm f/1.1 was that the aperture ring required so much effort to turn that it defeated the purpose of having a declicked aperture; you still wouldn’t be able to get smooth aperture transitions. Even after it loosened up a bit with use, I still had a few “sticking points” where the action was less smooth. On the Kamlan 28mm the action is much smoother and much more consistent; videographers should be able to do “aperture racking” without issue, though the weight is still on the heavier side. I understand that with a clickless aperture you don’t want the weighting to be so light that you inadvertently change aperture settings easily, but I also think the purpose of a declicked aperture is defeated if the weight is too heavy. Kamlan has refined their process already, but I think just a slight more refinement is in order.

That’s not a problem with the MF ring! The manual focus ring is incredibly smooth and perfectly damped, allowing for smooth and accurate focus results across the roughly 160 degrees of focus travel. The quality of the focus and aperture rings is that of a premium lens; all finely ribbed anodized metal. The MF ring is loaded with etched (not just painted) distance markings to help aid focus, though there are a variety of focus aids built into the Sony a6500 body that I’m using for review that help even more. I found the distance markings to be fairly accurate, though, as is fairly typical in my findings, I found that accurate infinity focus came slightly before the hard stop at infinity. The lens extends about 1 cm (roughly half and inch) when at minimum focus distances (the lens will focus down to 25cm/9”), though nothing rotates at the front, which allows for circular polarizers to be used without issue.

One minor real-world criticism that I’ve encountered is that there isn’t a major difference in tactile feel between the two rings (the MF ring is a few millimeters wider) due to the clickless nature of the aperture ring, and, as a result, there have been times that I’ve inadvertently starting changing aperture when I wanted to focus the lens. I’m sure that familiarity will help eliminate that issue, but it’s worth noting as I haven’t often had that issue despite being unfamiliar with a lens. The only other lens that I can recall encountering this issue is with my vintage Helios 44-2 lens (a preset aperture lens). This isn’t a big issue, but just something to look out for as you begin to familiarize yourself with the lens.

The lens has a metal 52mm front filter thread up front along with other branding information along the front lens’ fascia. I wasn’t crazy about the way that the lens hood included with the 50mm f/1.1 lens mounted on the front bayonet mount, as it didn’t really attach with a definite click. I felt like I needed to force the hood into the correct position. At first, I looked at a prototype version of the Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 that had a similar hood, but later discovered that Kamlan has developed a new premium metal lens hood for the lens instead, and that hood attaches by threading it onto the front filter threads rather than a bayonet mount. It is threaded inside the lens hood so that you can still attach screw-on filters in the 52mm size. The upside to this arrangement is that with, say, a circular polarizer, the filter isn’t quite as deeply recessed in the hood.  The new metal lens hood is about half the length of the plastic one, and has an ultra-fine ribbing inside to stop light from bouncing around.  The logo on the hood has been updated to Kamlan’s most recent script.  The loss of depth in the metal hood doesn’t seem to make a big difference, and the premium finish of the metal hood definitely makes everything seem a little more high end.

There is one downside to the metal hood, however, and that is that due to the nature of the attachment (via the filter threads), it cannot be reversed like the plastic hood for storage.  A bayonet mount hood can always be reversed, but not a hood that threads on.  I was also a little disappointed to find that the mounting still left something to be desired, and when reaching the end of the range of screwing on the hood it felt like the machining just didn’t quite line up perfectly between the threads of the hood and the filter threads.  It worked, but it required more force than what I would like (accompanied by a bit of screeching as I attempted to line up the logo in the proper spot).  I’d like to see Kamlan refine their machining process a bit more, as it is those little details that help leave a positive impression with photographers.

The Kamlan 28mm lens has a large, bright f/1.4 aperture that allows for great results in low light conditions and also the ability to create beautifully soft backgrounds. It allows for more control over the depth of field, letting you choose what will be in focus. Further extending the flexibility of the lens is the ability focus down to just 0.25m (9.48 inches), which allows for a 0.15x maximum magnification figure, which, while not exceptional in an absolute sense, is higher than competing lenses at this focal length.

The lens sports a premium 11-blade circular aperture iris, which enables it to have soft, creamy backgrounds with circular highlights even when the lens is stopped down to smaller apertures. The very artful rendering from the lens is unique from a lens at this inexpensive price point. My chief complaint against my Tamron 45mm lens is that while it has nice rendering in a number of situations, it is prone towards onion bokeh (concentric circles in bokeh highlights) and also suffers from some pronounced axial chromatic aberrations at wide apertures. Neither of these are problems for the Kamlan 28.

At the rear of the lens you will find all metal components, and I noted with relief that the machining of the bayonet mount of the Kamlan 28mm is more precise, which results in a smoother mount/unmount process. The rear of the lens is nicely engineered, though it lacks either electronics or any kind of weather sealing. I don’t really expect the weather sealing at this point, but the lack of electronics brings its own kind of complications.

The first of those complications is that the lack of communication to the camera body means that in camera profiles are out of the question. Even in a piece of software like Lightroom a profile won’t automatically be applied but must be manually selected…and you may need to go and find a profile for it. Do you need a profile? Vignette is actually pretty mild – mild enough that I doubt it would be an issue in any real-world scenario. There is some mild barrel distortion, however, and the lens could benefit from correction of that. At wide open aperture, I found that a value of +6 in Lightroom’s “Distortion” setting nicely corrected the distortion (it’s a simple barrel distortion pattern), and a value of +43 (Amount) and +17 (Midpoint) dialed into the Manual Vignetting panel solved the vignette. None of these values are extreme.  Here’s a look at the result before correction and after my simple correction:

The secondary challenge with no electronics is that the lens won’t communicate any EXIF data. This means that you won’t get lens-specific information attached to the files, like focal length, lens designation, or aperture value. The latter can be a real challenge as it makes applying a profile to correct for, say, vignette, difficult because vignette is aperture specific in most cases. The values I gave for Amount on Vignette are applicable at f/1.4; by f/2.8 they are too extreme and you need to pull the amount back.

One final observation on the lack of electronic communication: if you are shooting on a camera body with Sony’s IBIS (Optical Steady Shot), you will need to manually select the focal length in Steady Shot settings to tailor the IBIS to give the best performance. 28mm is an option there, and it will allow the camera to apply appropriate correction for the focal length. Doing this will give you a better performance.

On a side note, I personally miss proper EXIF data as a lens reviewer. It means that I have to try to mentally remember aperture values for tests and shots when I report on the lens. As an added complication, I’m currently reviewing a couple such lenses, so I’m also struggling to remember which lens was used for a particular shot.

Complaining aside, I knew all of these things going into the review; it’s the nature of this kind of lens. The build of the compact Kamlan 28mm is ultimately very positive. It’s a nicely built lens with some premium elements that are way above its inexpensive price point.

Kamlan 28mm Image Quality

When I reviewed the 50mm f/1.1, I found a fairly mixed bag. On the positive front, the bokeh rendering from the lens was very nice, as was color rendition. On the negative front was the fact that chromatic aberrations were quite high, the lens was highly flare prone, and critical sharpness and contrast didn’t arrive until the lens was stopped down to smaller apertures. I’ve had the opportunity to shoot for an extended period with the Kamlan 28mm, and frankly, I vastly prefer it to the 50mm f/1.1. Sainsonic has managed to correct the majority of the optical shortcomings of the 1.1/50 while retaining the strengths of its nice rendering and bokeh. I would encourage you to watch the image quality breakdown in this video to get all the details:

The optical formula is 8 elements in 7 groups. The lens utilizes high quality optical glass with higher levels of refraction to help shape light more efficiently and to produce lower chromatic aberrations (which are better controlled than competing lenses). It also employs a Gaussian-like symmetrical structure that has the dual benefit of allowing for the compact size of the lens while also reducing aberrations and distortion.

Resolution and Contrast

The good news here is that resolution and contrast in the center of the frame is already quite good at f/1.4. Chromatic aberrations are better controlled (though not nonexistent), so contrast is less impacted. I have found over years of reviewing lenses that axial (longitudinal) chromatic aberrations are the #1 killer of contrast. Part of why Zeiss lenses tend to have such excellent microcontrast is the excellent job they do in dealing with axial CA. Often as lenses are stopped down, the axial CA starts to clear up, which has the side benefit of increasing contrast.

The axial CA here is fairly mild (better than, say, the excellent Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DN), and so there is only a moderate boost to center contrast when the lens is stopped down to narrower apertures. In fact, peak center sharpness and contrast arrives at f/2, and really it is the outer portion of the image circle that is affected by stopping the lens down further.

To be fair to most other comparisons of lenses on the Sony a6500 (where profiles are often embedded even in RAW files), I am going to show comparisons where I’ve done the very mild vignette and distortion correction, which I’ve determined does not negatively impact results and will allow you to see edge performance a little more clearly.

Here’s a look at how much sharper the center is than the edge at f1.4:

There was enough of a difference that I wondered if the result was from field curvature, so I tried again with the lens focused on the left side (where I would measure) and then did a traditional center focus. What I found was a very minor improvement on the area when I focused directly on it, but not enough to make a meaningful difference. It’s just some softness on the edges, not really a field curvature issue.

Stopping the lens down to f/2 makes a slight improvement to the already excellent center result by reducing what chromatic aberrations were there and boosting contrast some. You’ll also note that the colors of the bricks are more accurate due to not having a slight magenta cast from CA:

Other than a lift of vignette, there is little improvement all the way out at the edge at f/2:

At the same time, the sharp portion of the frame does extend further out towards the edge, but, as you can see, the extreme edge still isn’t all that impressive.

So when do the edges sharpen up? Fortunately there is a major leap from f/2 to f/2.8, where the edges move from merely acceptable to fairly good.

From f/2.8 to f/4 the edges improve further to good:

Finally, at f/5.6, the extreme edges become excellent…as in really excellent. At f/8, the sharpness profile across the frame peaks, with a very minor improvement from f/5.6:

Some lenses never sharpen up to exceptional levels, but I can safely say that the Kamlan 28mm is not one of those lenses…it reaches excellent levels across the frame when stopped down, which allows you to create some beautiful landscape images like these:

The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 is the most natural competitor for the Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 on the Sony E-mount that I’m reviewing on. I’ve owned that for nearly a year, and know it very well as it has been my most used APS-C Emount lens. The focal lengths aren’t identical, obviously, but are close enough that in most situations there won’t be much of a practical difference. The Sigma is a quite a bit larger physically (64.8mm vs 56mm in diameter and nearly 80mm vs 68mm in length), though the Kamlan is actually the heavier lens due to construction (265g vs 344g). The Sigma has the advantage of being an autofocusing lens and having electronics to control aperture and report information, but it’s not a sure win optically. Because of the electronics, there is a standard correction profile embedded in the RAW files, but, even with the help of the built-in profile, it actually shows more chromatic aberrations and more distortion than the much cheaper Kamlan:

As I’ve mentioned, though, image quality is complicated. The two lenses are close wide open, though the Kamlan 28 shows a slight advantage in resolution and a clear advantage in contrast in the center of the frame (you can see more effect from axial CA on the Sigma).

Along the extreme edge of the frame I feel like the advantage shifts towards the Sigma. There is more of a variance (as we’ve seen) between center and edge performance with the Kamlan.

Stopped down the f/2 the pattern remains virtually identical, with both lenses making strides but with roughly the same result (I think the Sigma advantage in the extreme edges is a little more pronounced. At f/2.8 the Sigma has sharpened up more than the Kamlan (mostly due to the more pronounced chromatic aberrations having cleared up), which leaves an advantage across the frame for the Sigma:

But then the Sigma stops improving, while the Kamlan continues to sharpen up (as we have seen) all the way through f/8. When stopped down to landscape apertures like f/5.6, the Kamlan 28 is the clear winner on the edges and has a slight edge in the middle.

More significant to me is the fact that the Kamlan is also delivering the more accurate color rendition, which shows a Zeiss-like neutrality. The Sigma has trended just a little bit warm (as you can see in a number of these comparisons).  The color from the Kamlan makes for some beautiful portraits:

The fact that the Kamlan is competitive here (and even the winner in some categories) is impressive to me, as I already felt the Sigma was punching way above its weight optically (it’s as good or better than a lot of more expensive options). The Kamlan is achieving this at a truly budget price of less than half the price of the already reasonably priced Sigma. That’s impressive. If you have a tight budget, the Kamlan 28 is providing a lot of “bang for the buck”.

There are a lot of positives to take away from the resolution, from good center sharpness available even at f/1.4 to excellent results available from f/4 on across the frame for landscape work. The fact that the lens competes well with the excellent (and more expensive Sigma), which has been, to me, one of the benchmarks of the best lenses like this available on APS-C E-mount is evidence of how far Kamlan has come in their lens design already.

Other Image Quality Metrics

One area where the Kamlan 28 is still somewhat vulnerable is when the sun is put in the frame. It’s definitely improved from the 1.1/50, but it still isn’t perfect. At wide apertures there is definitely some veiling (loss of contrast). This is easier to show in video than in stills, as it varies a lot by the position of the sun. If you have concerns about this, please watch the video review. For stills there can be some artistic merit to veiling if you position the sun properly where ghosting artifacts (blobs of prismatic color) aren’t destructive.

I do like the fact that I can shoot some extremely backlit images without the sun directly in the frame without issue:

When you begin to stop the lens down, you will introduce some ghosting artifacts, though veiling is no longer an issue and contrast becomes strong.

They aren’t too extreme, however, so I consider this to be significant progress by Kamlan. The 1.1/50 really struggled in high contrast situations of any kind, but particularly in backlit settings. Has Kamlan developed some improved coatings? Once again, however, I see signs of maturation from this young lens development team.

I’ve previously noted the excellent color rendition of the Kamlan lens, and, to me, this is a real standout area of the lens. Colors are rich and yet accurate, and the level of contrast in many images is good without being extreme.

One area of major strength for the Kamlan is in the area of bokeh, which is frankly pretty excellent. In favorable situations the quality of blur/bokeh is outstanding – very soft and creamy:

But even when put in more difficult situations where there were more hard edges and potential for busyness, I felt the Kamlan 28 did a pretty good job for a lens that costs less than $175!

Here’s a look at the shape of the bokeh highlights at different aperture values (from f/1.4-f/4):

I’ve previously noted the close minimum focus distance for the lens, and I noted that resolution stayed strong near minimum focus distance, as you can see in this closeup of a pinecone (handheld, BTW):

Bottom line is that while there are a few minor missteps (somewhat weak edge performance at wide apertures), some vulnerability to flare), the reality is that the Kamlan 28 has a pretty amazing price-to-performance ratio.  I would recommend visiting the Lens Image Gallery here to see many more samples to show you real-world representation of what the lens is capable of.  I’ve had the unique opportunity shoot with this lens for months before I could release the review, so I have a huge variety of images there.

Video

All of the observations on focus and image quality are applicable to the use of the Kamlan 28 in video work, but I did want to add a little anecdote here for videographers. This is a lens that works very well for video, as this is a focal length where you will prize center sharpness (excellent), good color rendition (ditto), and quality global rendering (ditto again). All of these are strengths for this lens, and I would say the greatest weakness of the lens would be in flare resistance, which isn’t bad but is far from perfect. You will definitely see some veiling at wide apertures.

I began using this lens long before its introduction to the public, and I had an NDA where I wasn’t able to share information to the public. I began to use the lens for filming a number of my static YouTube episode segments, however, without disclosing what lens I was using for filming. I began to get a lot of feedback from people who were commenting favorably over how great the footage looked. I knew what they did not – this great footage was coming from a lens that will cost only $159. So, if you are a videographer on a budget, this is a killer deal. It’s a fantastic focal length, the maximum aperture of f/1.4 gives you flexibility in different lighting conditions, and it is an excellent video lens that produces accurate color. Think of it like getting a Zeiss at a huge discount for video work.

Conclusion

It is great to see new lensmakers enter the photography market and start to make an impact. Sainsonic and their Kamlan brand have elected to make their mark by offering quality optics and build at a budget price, and in the Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 I see a lot of signs of growing maturity and confidence in their craft. They have improved a lot of areas of weakness from the 50mm f/1.1 that I reviewed last fall, and the new lens just feels like a more mature effort optically. Kudos to the Sainsonic team for learning and adjusting quickly. Manual everything lenses aren’t for everyone, but mirrorless platforms make them far more accessible than on DSLRs. Best of all, the low price tag of under $200 makes the lens accessible to all photographers, and the premium look of the images you can produce with the Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 will it a favorite of a lot of photographers.

Gear Used:

 
Kamlan 28mm f/1.4: Sainsonic WorldwideAmazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK | Ebay 
Sony a6500: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK | Ebay
Peak Design Leash Strap: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada  | Amazon UK
Sony a7R III Camera: B&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon.ca | Amazon UK  | Ebay
Peak Design Slide Lite:  Peak Design StoreB&H Photo | Amazon | Amazon Canada | Amazon UK
Adobe Photoshop Creative Cloud 1-Year Subscription
Alien Skin Exposure X2 (Use Code “dustinabbott” to get 10% anything and everything)

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Keywords:  Kamlan 28mm, Kamlan 28mm 1.4, SainSonic, SainSonic Kamlan, 28mm, f1.4, 1.4, f/1.4 Kamlan 28mm Review, Kamlan 28mm 1.4 Review, Dustin Abbott, Hands On, Bokeh, Sharpness, Resolution, Chromatic Aberration, Sony a6500, Sony, a6500, Video Test, 4K, Real World, Sample Photos, Sigma 30mm f/1.4, Sigma, 30mm, Lens, Photography, 2018

DISCLAIMER: This article and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.